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Larry G
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I've been working on the same loco.
This is what I have so far.
A roof sitting on four posts will be added by the time I'm finished.
Larry Gant
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Larry G
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A shot of the backend.
My model is 1/2" scale BTW.
The back will remain open so the driver can get in ok.
Larry G
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Traingeekboy
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Larry G wrote:
I've been working on the same loco.
This is what I have so far.
A roof sitting on four posts will be added by the time I'm finished.
Larry Gant
That looks great! Do you have some more construction shots somewhere?
I am going to remove that awkward exhaust stack too. I want to build one with a muffler on it.
I am planning on leaving a lot of detail on the hood as sort of trick detail.
Even if it is not correct, people will look and go wow, nice detail on that... uhh... errr.. nice detail! :D
I have only put clip leads on mine. How do you feel about its running ability and load bearing ability?
____________________
Did I ever mention that I like trains?
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Kitbash0n30
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Traingeekboy wrote: I am using photoshop, but I think a free program like Gimp would like serve just as well. From experience with both I can say that Gimp will indeed.And will then follow up that statement with, gosh, been over a decade since I've used Photoshop. Have Gimp in this PC and probably been about 2 months since last time using it. My needs are few and simple so I've done only maybe 5% of what the program is capable of. Several years ago I did buy a 550-something page book titled Beginning Gimp by a gal who has worked on development of the program. I often learn more easily from books than from online computer programs or videos.
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See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
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Traingeekboy
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Kitbash0n30 wrote: Traingeekboy wrote: I am using photoshop, but I think a free program like Gimp would like serve just as well. From experience with both I can say that Gimp will indeed.And will then follow up that statement with, gosh, been over a decade since I've used Photoshop. Have Gimp in this PC and probably been about 2 months since last time using it. My needs are few and simple so I've done only maybe 5% of what the program is capable of. Several years ago I did buy a 550-something page book titled Beginning Gimp by a gal who has worked on development of the program. I often learn more easily from books than from online computer programs or videos.
Most of what I am doing is very basic stuff.
Just playing with the idea of very lazy modeling techniques for noobs like me. 
____________________
Did I ever mention that I like trains?
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Larry G
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My loco rebuild to 1/2" scale has been trial and error, no plans, except a vision in my minds eye.
I raised the hood almost a 1/4" with styrene plastic.
I feel this gives a more believable impression of a hood that could actually hold a engine and transmission.
As far as detail on the hood, the look of removable panels will be added.
The cab will have a roof but no window glass. Roll down canvas curtains will be modeled to keep the driver warm and dry.
I bought my loco used off ebay. It ran ok when I first tested it.
After cleaning the wheels and oiling the gears and axles with Labelle 108 plastic compatable oil, it ran much better.
Now that I've run it around the layout several times, it runs slow and smooth.
The mechanism of my loco is a bit noisy.
Since the loco is only two wheel drive it doesn't have the pulling power to handle the grades on my layout.
Adding some weight may improve the pulling power and improve electrical contact with the rails.
I plan to use it as a switching loco on level ground.
I hope you find this info useful, Larry Gant
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Traingeekboy
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Thanks Larry,
all good info.
It's certainly a toy train set loco, that's for sure.
I plan to use it with very short trains.
But it isn't much different than most locos as far as the drive.
Did I say most locos? I meant, most cheap toy train locos 
It's just ye olde motor with a worm gear on the shaft and a big gear on the wheel axle,
which has always worked for many toy trains for decades.
I am thinking of using some plastic safe grease on the gears.
Something a little bit thicker than oil, but that is just me.
____________________
Did I ever mention that I like trains?
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Traingeekboy
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I am discovering the joys of cutting plastic.
I seem to be cutting pieces that are not exactly square. I'm having fun, but there has to be a better way.
Or, does everyone use thin plastic and then sand the edge down flat with the nearest 90 degree surface, so it matches up?
Practice loco progresses along, be it very slowly. Last edited on 1 Sep 2018 04:05 pm by Traingeekboy
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Traingeekboy
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I decided I should visit the local art supply store and just see what was there.
Decided to walk, it just felt like something I should do. I found a 5 dollar bill next to the road.
So my fate was sealed and I had a five dollar art supply store visit.
They actually had the cheapest cutting knives. Half of what the Ace hardware and office max charge.
So I got some good old #11's for the x-acto.
Then I came across this wood veneer.
I have been thinking I could basically sheath an old Tyco gondola in strip wood and make it Look like a hand made wood gondola.
This is what I found:
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Traingeekboy
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I'm not one of those massively productive modelers so my discussions tend to go stale for a while.
I got a break from the day job, and I was trying to decide on whether to build an old HO Vollmer crane kit for my European trains, or get back to the loco.
Since I want to actually complete something, I decided old engine #13 should get some more work done.
Since this is just being cobbled together without a plan, I sometimes need to really think of the best way to approach the build.
It dawned on me the other day that the best way to fill up the back, was to add the deck plate/step into the cab.
If I got that in place then everything else would attach to that!
So that is what I did, added the cab step, then added little filler pieces on the sides, finally I put the two piece to complete the doors.
I still think there has to be some kind of more accurate way to cut plastic.
My approach is just keep cutting pieces till they look sorta square and sorta fit.
Anyway, it looks more and more like a loco.
Of course I just keep getting ideas for more details.
For all I know this will take me forever to finish, but it's a lot of fun.
____________________
Did I ever mention that I like trains?
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Kitbash0n30
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Traingeekboy wrote:This isn't a loco construction tutorial, it's more of a what not to do tutorial.
Tons of problems to fix.
...
But hey, At least I can also say -- I IZ UH MODUL RAYEL ROETER!
 Well, hey, once you identify what not to do, that sure streamlines the decision process for what to do.
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See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
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Larry G
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To cut a straight line in plastic try gluing course sandpaper to the back of a steel ruler.
The sandpaper keeps the ruler from slipping out of alignment as you pull the cutting blade along.
Larry G
Attachment: DSC00003 3.jpg (Downloaded 69 times)
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Traingeekboy
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Genius!
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