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Modeling 'The Gilpin Tram' - pt.II
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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 02:37 am
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Keith Pashina
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In the past month, I have been slowly working on the Black Hawk town scene on my HOn30 layout.
 
I finished the structures, installed LED lighting in most of the buildings, mounted them on the module base,
finished the roads, and got the scenery down.  






Here is the overall scene as it looks today.
I joined 3, 18" x 18" premed artist board sections to make this 3' x 3' corner section
.





I decided to build my current layout using the premade modular sections so that they would be easy to handle.
Also, I can lift them off of the layout and work comfortably on them on my workbench
.





The "downtown" scene abuts the Fullerton Mill, which is truncated and set against the back edge and backdrop.
This is the "alley" side of the town



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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 02:41 am
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Keith Pashina
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I posted this overhead image to show how small and compact the town scene is.
From left to right, the distance is 18", and from top to bottom, about 14"






This is how the town area looks after last night's weed and brush-planting session.
The bridge in the foreground is over Clear Creek, which runs for maybe 12" in the layout before disappearing into a culvert
.





Another view of the town progress.
Tomorrow, I will work on get drivers on the wagons, harnessing the horses, adding harp switch stands, and planting people and "details."



More postings to come!


Keith


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 Posted: Sat Oct 5th, 2019 03:39 am
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W C Greene
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Wonderful work!
I have admired your layout(s) over many years.
 
The Gilpin Tramway fired up my love for the "western 2 footers", there really just being GT and the SCPA&M.
I really wanted to faithfully model the Silver City line but the old "freelancer" in me took over.
There are many things and places on my Big Bend layout that came from New Mexico,
but what can I say?

Well, yes I do have a few Gilpin pieces that I built over the years...
GT #1, metal water car, tiny snowplow, and a couple of phase 1 ore cars.
For those who are unfamiliar with the fate of Shay #1, she went to the Silver City road (reality)
and then on to the Big Bend where she still works as the Boquillas switcher.
 
Thank you for inspiring me and many others for so long.

W C Greene




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 Posted: Sun Oct 6th, 2019 02:07 pm
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Kevin Fall
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Keith,

I've always liked your technique of weathering,
and how all the buildings just seem to belong together with your scenes.

With such little space to work this came out so convincing.
I think that has a lot to do with how well you placed the buildings.

All it needs is a few mountain folk.

If you get a chance, can you tell me what you are using for the LED lighting
(as I have no clue what to use).

It would be nice at some point to see a photo with the lights.

Thanks,

Kevin


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 Posted: Mon Oct 7th, 2019 04:46 am
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Keith Pashina
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Well thanks, Woodie and Kevin. It's nice to get comments on the stuff I post.
 
But, I have been getting ideas and inspiration, from Woodie Greene's posts,
on his current layout, and his past layout, the Mogollon Railway.
If you haven't gone back to read his previous posts on his modeling,
you're missing out on a lot of great photos and stories.



MORE BLACK HAWK PROGRESS





Black Hawk lit up at night. The station area is lit up brightly to draw a viewer's attention to it
.


I had mentioned that I had been on working on installing LED lighting in many of the town structures in Black Hawk. 

Kevin, you had asked about what I was using to light the structures.
I favor using 3V warm white LED's, powered by 2 AA batteries.
 
I have purchased the LEDs with pre-wired leads from Evan Designs lately,
but there are several other vendors you can find on the internet.

A friend of mine buys the very small SMD LEDs and wires his own leads - that is too much work for me,
and I prefer to spend a bit more and get them with the 4" or 6" wire leads.
I buy a variety of sizes, but the very small SMD style "pico" and "nano" sizes work well for whatever I am lighting up. 






I made a home-made tester for the LEDs,
with two alligator leads and a 12-position rotary switch with resistors of different resistance wired in.

This makes it easy to see how an LED looks when dimmed down a bit.
I now wire a resister in-line in each LED to get it to the lighting level I like (usually depicting oil or gas lamp light).

On earlier models, I ran the LED at the full 3V, but dimmed the light output with translucent yellow paint-
the resister is much easier to do.






"Downtown" Black Hawk in the early evening.
Another use for these photos is to point out flaws in the models,
such as the light leaks around the store building at left - oh well, easy to fix.






I have been adding more details to the Black Hawk scene -
one of them being the plastic Precision Scale harp switchstands.

With a bit of tinkering, they can be made to operate when the turnout is thrown.
The harp stand is merely scenery, and has a small wire connected to the turnout throw bar -
when the switch is thrown with the under-table manual throws I use, the harp switch stand moves, too.






So, for fun, I assembled and painted a pile of the switch stands,
and tonight, mounted them on all of the turnouts in my Black Hawk area -
I like the appearance that these add - very "railroad."



I still need to add more details -
I have not finished the wagons, added simulated horse harnesses, or added any figures yet -
that is fun to do, and goes quickly - I'll post pictures of that effort later this week.



Keith


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 Posted: Mon Oct 7th, 2019 11:11 pm
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Kevin Fall
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Keith,

Thank you for the LED lighting tips and where to get the LED's.

My brain is not wired correctly for understanding electricity,
and each little tip helps as I slowly learn!

I was debating on whether or not to put lighting in my buildings,
but it definitely adds another dimension.

I think I remember a post of yours way back,
where you mentioned the colors of the targets the Gilpin might have used,
so will wait to see how you paint them.

And Woodie has so many topics that I am probably not even halfway through them,
but that is undoubtably one of the many places in these forums I also get inspired.

Kevin


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 Posted: Tue Oct 8th, 2019 03:42 am
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W C Greene
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Keith, now you've done it!
Many years ago I used the brass PSC O scale harp switch stands on my little On20 layout, with knob & rod activation.
Now, I use those Caboose Hobbies ground throws, and after looking at your excellent scenes,
I have decided to go into debt on O scale harp stands, and mess with making them work with knob & rods (again!).
I gotta quit getting ideas! Grrrrrrrr!

Woodrow




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 Posted: Tue Oct 8th, 2019 06:33 am
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Michael M
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Woodie,

Would be interested in hearing back a report on how you rigged up your Harp switch stands. 
Been thinking about maybe doing something like that myself some time.

Wonder if you could make your own?




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Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad

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 Posted: Tue Oct 8th, 2019 03:13 pm
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W C Greene
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Howdy Michael,
Simply described...the knob & rod switch throwing idea had the end of the rod working the switch bridle (all my switches were stubs),
the rod went through a hole in a small DPDT switch toggle (glued to the toggle so it activated the DPDT for power routing)
since I ran DC then and a small wire was attached to this which ran to the harp to make it work.
With a bit of fiddling it all worked right.
Yes, the stands could be made, I would use brass so I could solder the parts together but plastic would be OK also.
Now, I would consider the PSC brass ones again since I don't want to make as many as I need.
I have over 20 switches on my layout already.
Keith, excuse me for hijacking your thread!

In my case, I don't need to use the DPDT's since I don't need no stinkin' power routing!

Woodie




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 Posted: Wed Oct 9th, 2019 03:22 am
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Keith Pashina
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MORE ON HARP SWITCHSTANDS

This harp switch stand topic is becoming a lot of fun - it's a fun and interesting topic. If the switchstand operates, it adds a nice, simple piece of animation on your layout - visitors notice and appreciate it.





This harp switchstand is on the restored trackage at Alpine Tunnel on the former C&S/South Park in Colorado. In HO, the former Precision Scale plastic switch stands I used seem to based on a prototype similar to this one. The cast iron stand has feet that widen, to leave a slot for the throw rod to the turnout to pass through. The vertical staff has pins that extend through the staff, and drop into a slot in the top of the harp frame  to lock the switchstand into place. The double diamond-shape target seems to be unique for the DSP&P, at least for narrow gauge.



This is a similar constructed switchstand at the Colorado Railroad Museum - this style target was used by the Rio Grande narrow gauges. Also, note the red and white colored target - an appealing style that would look good on a model




The Gilpin Tram seemed to follow a lot of practices used by the Colorado Central and later on, the Colorado and Southern. Their harp switchstands were similar to the C&S/South Park style and this photo shows a double-diamond switchstand at the end of the trestle next to the Black Hawk engine house. Note that the targets are painted two colors - a darker color on top (a redo of some type, I assume), and a lighter color on the lower half of the target (perhaps white? yellow?)







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