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Rick S
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Helmut,
Thanks for the link. I have read several of David Easton's tutorials and he is insanely talented.
In his Model Making Tutorial on his site, he says his main building material is polystyrene sheet. I think "cardstock" means something different in Europe - here it's just thick paper. I seem to recall reading somewhere that what Brits call "cardstock" we call "binder board" - the stuff used to make hardcover books.
The sawmill I am working on is basically two thicknesses of 100-pound paper, so the walls are about .03" thick.
Rick
____________________
Model railroaders are alchemists: We turn gold into rusty iron.
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Helmut
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I referred to the pictures and the link to Pendon Museum - "Pendon Parva" is entirely built of cardstock ( bristol board and such ). I had the pleasure of talking it over with the late Roye England and also saw J. Ahern's " Madder Valley" in operation.
Last edited on 15 Feb 2017 06:27 pm by Helmut
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Regards, H.
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Lee B
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The issues I see with cardstock is that though surface texture issues have finally been addressed on the British ones I see in their magazines (some of those are amazing looking), how thick does it have to be before warping isn’t a problem?
Many layouts are in places where heat, cold and humidity play their games with a layout. With plastic of wood structures (to a lesser degree), that isn’t much of an issue. But even thick stock like Bristol or Illustration boards can warp over time. I’ve seen several people print out computer-generated structures onto cardstock, which in some cases is only as thick as two sheets of normal paper bonded together. No way that’s going to maintain right angles for very long.
With the great leaps in laser work on wood, I don’t think I’d deal much with paper structures, except as a temporary representation for the ‘real’ structure that’s being built elsewhere.
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-Lee
Commanding Officer, 796th Railway Operating Battalion (in On30 gauge)
https://willysmb44.webs.com/modeltrains.htm
Photos of my layout: https://www.flickr.com/photos/53587910@N05/albums/72157668176638961
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Rick S
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Lee B wrote: I don’t think I’d deal much with paper structures, except as a temporary representation for the ‘real’ structure that’s being built elsewhere.
Lee,
That is why this one is being built. I want to see not only how it will fit on the layout, but how it's going to interact visually and spatially with other objects before I build it from basswood.
As far as warpage goes, I live on a river in North Central Texas. It gets pretty humid here, and the cardstock doesn't warp while sitting in the printer. Maybe over a longer period of time, but for the anticipated lifespan of this structure, it should be fine.
I used cardstock for elements of the Santa Claus house I built for the Christmas layout. Most of the cardstock in that structure is reinforced with basswood or foam core board since I wanted it to last longer than one Christmas season.
Rick
____________________
Model railroaders are alchemists: We turn gold into rusty iron.
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Lee B
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Si. wrote: Spraying with a light amount of Testors 'Dullcote' kinda seals paper/card like an artists 'fixative'.
It can also act as a 'key' for further weathering, also good for a 'key' on plastic rolling stock.
It can also deal with slight paper 'sheen', or any mildly glossy inks.
Si.
True, but it can also blur the ink from cheaper printers in some cases.
____________________
-Lee
Commanding Officer, 796th Railway Operating Battalion (in On30 gauge)
https://willysmb44.webs.com/modeltrains.htm
Photos of my layout: https://www.flickr.com/photos/53587910@N05/albums/72157668176638961
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Rick S
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This plan came from ScaleModelPlans.com
There is a link on his site to a free pole shed plan.
Rick
____________________
Model railroaders are alchemists: We turn gold into rusty iron.
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Larry G
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How long can I expect my structures built with foam core and a overlay of cardboard to last?
Do I need to use reinforcement on the inside of my structures?
I live in a semi-arid part of the U.S. with lower dew points.
Larry Gant
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B&O GLENNWOOD
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If you spray your structures with a protective coating like Krylon clear or dull coat,
this will not only help against warping but also help the inks from fading.
I have had paper structures for over 5 years without a problem.
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Kyle Moore
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There are several companies that sell designs that one could print.
Just buy the design and save it to your PC and print as many as you need out.
In an ironic twist of fate I don't own a printer,
and now I am in the market because of these companies and the fact I do try to penny pinch when I can so I can use the money elsewhere.
On the bright side I at least won't need to use the library for important documents any more once I get that printer.
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Innovation is the key
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