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| Posted: Sat Apr 30th, 2011 09:54 pm |
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11th Post |
titus
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| Location: | Colorado USA |
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Wow, cool looking etching. I've looked into getting an etching setup for a bit but haven't yet pulled the trigger on it. What do you think of it so far and which kit did you get?
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| Posted: Sat Apr 30th, 2011 10:08 pm |
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12th Post |
sledhead
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| Joined: | Wed Jun 23rd, 2010 |
| Location: | Wisconsin USA |
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My wife bought me the Micro-mark kit. It was very easy to use, and the instructions cover everything you need to know. After one misfire, due to me not following the instructions closely enough, I had success. And the second time around was much easier and quicker as I already knew most of the steps.
I would say the most time was actually spent creating the artwork. I used a combination of Adobe illustrator and Solidworks ds.
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mike
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| Posted: Tue May 24th, 2011 05:26 am |
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| Posted: Tue May 24th, 2011 08:16 pm |
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| Posted: Tue May 24th, 2011 09:04 pm |
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15th Post |
sledhead
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Thanks Herb!
The brass was the .005 inch thick sheet that came with the etching system. It took about seven minutes to etch completely through one side, and I just dangled the unfinished side in with the pair of plastic tweezers for about two more minutes to complete it. Believe it or not, folding the dang AC unit without deforming it was the hardest part of the etching. All the soldering except for brass to brass was done with cerrosafe. I made thin soldering "sticks" by ladling a thin line of it out on a sheet of glass.
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mike
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| Posted: Wed May 25th, 2011 02:48 pm |
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| Posted: Wed May 25th, 2011 09:25 pm |
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17th Post |
sledhead
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Well I can't take credit for the idea. Railmaster (the kit manufacturer) recommends a low melt cerro alloy for soldering the pewter parts together. I did come up with the idea to create the sticks though, works really well. I used stay-bright acid flux, soldering REALLY speeds kit construction, plus it makes filling gaps and fixing mistakes a breeze. I did use JB Weld for a few details that would have been difficult to solder, it is as durable as solder, plus you can solder right next to it and the heat won't bother it unlike epoxy and CA.
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mike
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| Posted: Thu May 26th, 2011 11:57 am |
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18th Post |
mosslake1
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| Location: | Perth, Australia |
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Good job on the loco mate There's gotta be a special blessing for someone who runs Alcos
For those who were wondering, that's an Alco/MLW, originally built for the White Pass RR.
Just a thought, why not make a master and cast the dump cars in urethane?
Last edited on Thu May 26th, 2011 11:59 am by mosslake1
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Russ
Moss Lake Lumber Co.
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| Posted: Sat May 28th, 2011 01:17 am |
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19th Post |
sledhead
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mosslake1 wrote: Good job on the loco mate There's gotta be a special blessing for someone who runs Alcos
For those who were wondering, that's an Alco/MLW, originally built for the White Pass RR.
Just a thought, why not make a master and cast the dump cars in urethane?
Thanks moss! Yep, there's just something about those Alcos...
Yeah, probably the best way to do the hopper cars is by casting. I'm going to need at least a half-dozen of them, so in the end it will probably be faster, but that means I first need to learn how to cast in urethane. I originally considered doing them with etched details and brass shapes, but it would likely take forever. So I began the water car in the the meantime. Since I only need one, it makes sense to just do that one in brass.
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mike
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| Posted: Sat May 28th, 2011 01:29 am |
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20th Post |
elminero67
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That loco is very cool. Nice to see someone take the time to do something unique.
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