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Traingeekboy
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After reading the post about 1:55n3 I got a bit curious about it.

One important feature of this scale is cost.
It seemed to me that the ideal testbed for this scale would be a Fantasy gas powered switcher.
I've been spending a bit of time examining the AHM Yugoslavian made GE 35 ton switcher.
I got mine as a broken down and beat up model for free.
Yet, the motor still works!
I've read that these do not run well, but when I applied power the mechs ran smooth enough for what I am interested in.

Here is a side shot of the unmodified shell.





Traingeekboy
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And here is where I have determined the easiest way to cut things down happens.

(yellow marks are cut lines)





Traingeekboy
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Now to raise the cab a bit to make things a bit more extreme for the tall narrow look.

The cab seems too long, so I am proposing cutting away one set of windows.





Traingeekboy
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For the Final effect, the back of the cab has been chopped to make a small back porch on the loco.
This provides for a step up to the cab floor level.

I forgot to attach the under carriage and deck when I shot the first images,
so a little bit of Photoshop magic and I have cut another picture into what I had before and the pre-visualization is done.

I have never been much of a model builder.
I just love trains and train history.
So I am more of your toy train runner type.
Bit this simple hack seems very easy and I already have some testors solvent glue and a tube of squadron putty in hand.

Any advice on the best way to cut plastic shells evenly and smoothly?
Any design ideas greatly appreciated.


Traingeekboy
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I think the greatest problem with the whole internet store thing is that modeling materials and tools are always farther away.

Just went to ye old Ace hardware looking for a razor saw, but all they had was this hand "hobby saw".
Now that I have it at home I can see it is too cumbersome to use in this hobby.

Since the local hobby store was kicked out of their building and then moved, my trip is 8 miles, which for me is a bit much today;
no AC in the car and it's almost 90 degrees out.

As I mentioned before, Any experienced plastic builders who want to give me advice on marking and cutting that feel like chiming in?

I am not going to pretend I know what I am doing here.
Sure, I've tried to do some scratch building in the past, but plastic is not my friend.
I have destroyed a lot of plastic models whilst trying to "fix" them.
hee hee hee


Lee B
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A razor saw or fine-tooth belt on a bandsaw would work best.
Maybe even a dremel tool but that's kind of small for something like that.
Too many chances for cutting through that which you wanted to keep.
Heck, you could score it with a knife and straight edge and work it out that way.
It takes time but you can get some good clean cuts that way...


Traingeekboy wrote:
 
Since the local hobby store was kicked out of their building and then moved, my trip is 8 miles, which for me is a bit much today;
no AC in the car and it's almost 90 degrees out.


Wow EIGHT whole miles? How ever do you manage such a far drive?
Sorry, for me it's almost that distance to the highway to start to go anywhere else.
The nearest real hobby shop is just over 50 miles away and the nearest GOOD one is over 100 miles.
My sympathy meter registers a 0.0...


Si.
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Hi TGB  :wave:



I have a couple of razor-saws for 'micro-surgery' on 1:35 tin-hats.  :Salute:


;)


But ...

... for the average 'body chop' ... the trusty ol' junior-hacksaw is always the first choice.  :cool:

A newish, but slightly worn on wood, blade is a good idea, cheap as well !  :P





:shocked:





" It works for me ! " ... As hannibal always used to say on The A-Team !  :pimp:



A cut is always gonna be a 'bit short of the line' & need a lil' bit of sanding or filing anyway.  L:

Decent sharp files, foam sanding blocks & cheap bulk-packs of eBay nail-sanding boards, are my friends as well.  :thumb:



:)



Si.





W C Greene
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A razor saw is what you want/need for precision cutting. You say the LHS is 8 miles away, no a/c, and it's 90 degrees? How about 35 miles away, no a/c, and 109 degrees? Ya gotta do what you need to do. I do understand the problem however. But with a razor saw, some nice plastic glue (I use Testors Model Master glue with a needle point applicator), a bit of 220 grit sandpaper, maybe a nice fine cut large file, and masking tape to keep the cuts as straight as can be. You might get into making stuff and then... 1:55 is a great scale, you should like modeling in the scale.

BTW-the long trip to the LHS, etc. I mentioned is what I go through. But when you need something, "any port in the storm"...
Woodie

Traingeekboy
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Ok guys.
I'm just spoiled and I hate city driving. ;)

I was about 1.5 miles from the old Caboose; "biggest model train store in the world".
I would walk there sometimes.

I promise, next time, I will walk the eight miles. :):):)

Cutting has begun.
Some of it was good, some of it was bad.
I expect I won't be the 1st that ends up literally sculpting a whole new train engine out of Squadron putty. :P


Traingeekboy
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Did some sawing last night.

I've reduced things to three pieces now.





And this is roughly how it will fit together.





Learning as I go.

The cutting wasn't quite as accurate as I would like.
I will need to spend a bit of time filing and sanding so everything is prepared for the assembly stage.

Definitely having fun though. :)


Kitbash0n30
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Traingeek
Definitely having fun though. :)

That looks a lot like success.


Traingeekboy
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Thanks Kitbash.

I wouldn't know what success is because I get too OCD about things. :P
But yes -- FUN! Gotta keep on that mindset. 

To me it seems like I was too sloppy.

I found some really cheap styrene shapes on that auction site not long ago.
I think it's about 2 - 3 bucks a bundle max.
My first bundle they sent was the wrong thing so I got about twice what I ordered.

Now I just need some sheet styrene and I am off to the races.





oztrainz
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Hi Traingeekboy, to assist with the visulalisation try this one for size -

a usually 2' gauge loco running on 3'6" gauge from DownUnder.





I have some other 2' gauge stuff from the Aussie cane-fields that might help -

gone looking for them .. back shortly - (hopefully ;) )


Traingeekboy
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Very cute.

And I do like cute locos!

A bit tidy looking.

Mine will be a bit on the rusty and beat to hell side of things.  ;)


oztrainz
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Here'a "Albany" the workshop shunter at Victoria Mill near Ingham in North Queensland.





and





and a similar unit, but larger 6-wheel powered diesel/hydraulic from Tully Mill.





I hope that this helps.


Larry G
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Oztrainz,

Love the narrow gauge lines you still have in Oz.
 
Such lines, here in the US, are few and far between.
I am just old enough to have seen these tramway operations go under one at a time.
Underground mining is one of the last bastions of narrow gauge tramway action.
 
Thank for posting your photos.

Larry G


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Hi TGB  :wave:



Taking shape.  :thumb:



Love the lil' lokies Oz !  :2t:

I'm a BIG fan of 'wasp stripes' BTW.  :bg:

Damn well HATE wasps though !  :f:



Keep up the good work chaps !

Model railroading needs more BASHers !!  ;)



:moose:



Si.


oztrainz
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HI all,

If you want rusty and beat to hell try this one.

"Albany's brother", Macknade #17 -
left on a dead line under a tree for several years an then had the tree fall on it when a cyclone (aka hurricane) went past.
And then there was the couple of inches of water in the cab from when the widows were blown out by the cyclone.





Traingeekboy
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That's more like it.

Dirty and it has safety stripes!

Although work interfering with fun, must be persistent and get this model done.


Kitbash0n30
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Traingeekboy wrote:
That's more like it.

Dirty and it has safety stripes!


Stripes are not the only option ...

http://www.railpictures.net/photo/592425/


Larry G
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I've been working on the same loco.
This is what I have so far.
A roof sitting on four posts will be added by the time I'm finished.

Larry Gant





Larry G
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A shot of the backend.
My model is 1/2" scale BTW.
The back will remain open so the driver can get in ok.

Larry G





Traingeekboy
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Progress has been slow. But that dead time is always time to think about HOW to do a project.
I am back at it and have decided to try making templates for the side walls out of paper in order to do a test fitting.
I am using photoshop, but I think a free program like Gimp would like serve just as well.
Ok, so the cut out piece are scanned so that I can get a 1-1 image.





These are then aligned and I used "guides" the blue lines to define my panel area.





Now the last stage is to make a selection, or mask, that I can drop some filler into,
and I have a pattern I can print and cut out and tape together with my actual loco pieces.





I would have done more work, but I had a software failure. Lost ALL my work.
But I do have these screen grabs I can refer to.
I will simply take that last one and re-scale it to fit 1-1- and see how it looks.
Slow progress, but a real learning experience for using a computer to make templates for Real models. ;)


Traingeekboy
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Larry G wrote:  
I've been working on the same loco.
This is what I have so far.
A roof sitting on four posts will be added by the time I'm finished.

Larry Gant






That looks great! Do you have some more construction shots somewhere?
I am going to remove that awkward exhaust stack too. I want to build one with a muffler on it.
I am planning on leaving a lot of detail on the hood as sort of trick detail.
Even if it is not correct, people will look and go wow, nice detail on that... uhh... errr.. nice detail! :D
I have only put clip leads on mine. How do you feel about its running ability and load bearing ability?


Kitbash0n30
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Traingeekboy wrote: I am using photoshop, but I think a free program like Gimp would like serve just as well.From experience with both I can say that Gimp will indeed.And will then follow up that statement with, gosh, been over a decade since I've used Photoshop. Have Gimp in this PC and probably been about 2 months since last time using it. My needs are few and simple so I've done only maybe 5% of what the program is capable of. Several years ago I did buy a 550-something page book titled Beginning Gimp by a gal who has worked on development of the program. I often learn more easily from books than from online computer programs or videos.

Traingeekboy
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Kitbash0n30 wrote: Traingeekboy wrote: I am using photoshop, but I think a free program like Gimp would like serve just as well.From experience with both I can say that Gimp will indeed.And will then follow up that statement with, gosh, been over a decade since I've used Photoshop. Have Gimp in this PC and probably been about 2 months since last time using it. My needs are few and simple so I've done only maybe 5% of what the program is capable of. Several years ago I did buy a 550-something page book titled Beginning Gimp by a gal who has worked on development of the program. I often learn more easily from books than from online computer programs or videos.

Most of what I am doing is very basic stuff.
Just playing with the idea of very lazy modeling techniques for noobs like me. :P

Larry G
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    My loco rebuild to 1/2" scale has been trial and error, no plans, except a vision in my minds eye. 
I raised the hood almost a 1/4" with styrene plastic.
I feel this gives a more believable impression of a hood that could actually hold a engine and transmission.
As far as detail on the hood, the look of removable panels will be added.
The cab will have a roof but no window glass. Roll down canvas curtains will be modeled to keep the driver warm and dry.
 
    I bought my loco used off ebay. It ran ok when I first tested it.
After cleaning the wheels and oiling the gears and axles with Labelle 108 plastic compatable oil, it ran much better.
Now that I've run it around the layout several times, it runs slow and smooth.
The mechanism of my loco is a bit noisy.

    Since the loco is only two wheel drive it doesn't have the pulling power to handle the grades on my layout.
Adding some weight may improve the pulling power and improve electrical contact with the rails.  
I plan to use it as a switching loco on level ground.
 
    I hope you find this info useful,  Larry Gant
    




Traingeekboy
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Thanks Larry,

all good info.

It's certainly a toy train set loco, that's for sure.
I plan to use it with very short trains.
But it isn't much different than most locos as far as the drive.
Did I say most locos? I meant, most cheap toy train locos :)

It's just ye olde motor with a worm gear on the shaft and a big gear on the wheel axle,
which has always worked for many toy trains for decades.

I am thinking of using some plastic safe grease on the gears.
Something a little bit thicker than oil, but that is just me. :P


Traingeekboy
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Side note:

You know when you haven't done anything model wise with trains in a while...

Somehow you packed it all up neatly...

There are at least 3 X-acto knife handles in there...

You have all this sheet plastic that needs cutting...

Where the heck did I put it?
:bang::bang::bang::bang: 

Last edited on Fri Aug 31st, 2018 08:34 pm by Traingeekboy

Traingeekboy
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I am discovering the joys of cutting plastic.

I seem to be cutting pieces that are not exactly square. I'm having fun, but there has to be a better way.

Or, does everyone use thin plastic and then sand the edge down flat with the nearest 90 degree surface, so it matches up?

Practice loco progresses along, be it very slowly. :)

Last edited on Sat Sep 1st, 2018 08:05 pm by Traingeekboy

Traingeekboy
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I decided I should visit the local art supply store and just see what was there.

Decided to walk, it just felt like something I should do. I found a 5 dollar bill next to the road.

So my fate was sealed and I had a five dollar art supply store visit.

They actually had the cheapest cutting knives. Half of what the Ace hardware and office max charge.

So I got some good old #11's for the x-acto.

Then I came across this wood veneer.

I have been thinking I could basically sheath an old Tyco gondola in strip wood and make it Look like a hand made wood gondola.

This is what I found:





Traingeekboy
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Workin' on the loco and need to post some photos.

In the meantime, I found this little PDF which had some interesting info about the Denver, Boulder & Western RR.

https://www-static.bouldercolorado.gov/docs/train-history-1-201309101253.pdf

Traingeekboy
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Working away on the loki. 
Things are moving slowly, but it's really starting to take shape.




















Traingeekboy
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I'm not one of those massively productive modelers so my discussions tend to go stale for a while.
I got a break from the day job, and I was trying to decide on whether to build an old HO Vollmer crane kit for my European trains, or get back to the loco. 
Since I want to actually complete something, I decided old engine #13 should get some more work done.

Since this is just being cobbled together without a plan, I sometimes need to really think of the best way to approach the build. 
It dawned on me the other day that the best way to fill up the back, was to add the deck plate/step into the cab. 
If I got that in place then everything else would attach to that!

So that is what I did, added the cab step, then added little filler pieces on the sides, finally I put the two piece to complete the doors.

I still think there has to be some kind of more accurate way to cut plastic. 
My approach is just keep cutting pieces till they look sorta square and sorta fit.
Anyway, it looks more and more like a loco.


















Of course I just keep getting ideas for more details. 
For all I know this will take me forever to finish, but it's a lot of fun. 


Traingeekboy
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Pluggin' away at the practice loco. 
This isn't a loco construction tutorial, it's more of a what not to do tutorial.  
Tons of problems to fix.
 
I didn't want to spend more money on more plastic, so I'm using the thin sheet I have and some other stuff I got from China to do everything. 
The back opening, is a beast because the the little flat piece is hard to bend. 
Still haven't glued the top part of that.   
Cut off the cast on roof sill. Put on my own. 
Filled holes on the front and then attacked the little window pieces.
This was when I started thinking maybe I should stick to an oval of track and a ready to run set. :bang: :bang: :bang:

And of course, I've got glue finger prints on everything. hee hee hee 
I keep telling myself, "Just wait till you get it painted, then you won't notice a thing."  :P 
 




















But hey, At least I can also say -- I IZ UH MODUL RAYEL ROETER!



Kitbash0n30
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Traingeekboy wrote:This isn't a loco construction tutorial, it's more of a what not to do tutorial.  
Tons of problems to fix.
...
But hey, At least I can also say -- I IZ UH MODUL RAYEL ROETER!



:2t: Well, hey, once you identify what not to do, that sure streamlines the decision process for what to do.



Traingeekboy
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I think of all those magazines with slogans on the covers that I read as kid:

Model railroading is easy!

Model railroading is a relaxing hobby!

Model railroading - even a child can do it!

Meanwhile in my workshop:

:bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:



Larry G
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To cut a straight line in plastic try gluing course sandpaper to the back of a steel ruler. 

The sandpaper keeps the ruler from slipping out of alignment as you pull the cutting blade along.

Larry G

Attachment: DSC00003 3.jpg (Downloaded 57 times)

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:2t::2t::2t:





Traingeekboy
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Genius!





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Some more sit and think model work.

Was staring at the thing and realized it was time to add a temporary exhaust stack and some cab shades.

The exhaust should probably be thinner and have a muffler on it, but I like the single big stack.











Kitbash0n30
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Oh, talking exhaust stacks, 

cruise the industrial loco section here for all manner of stacks from the mundane to the nutcase, 

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/


Si.
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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



She's coming on pretty good !  :cool:



I wish she was 1:35n2 though ...

... but I don't expect to pervert everyone !  ;)  :f:



T.G.B. sent me some very  C :cool: :cool: L  pix. of ... the driver figure ?





I had trouble spotting the driver in this photo ... ? ...  ???

You need to keep an eye open at all times, when piloting a grumbly gas. mech. !  ;)






:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:




Si.


Traingeekboy
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yeah the little driver has to put up with a kurmudgeony 0-55-0 Gassssssy loco.

:bg::bg::bg::bg::bg: 

I think about simply using it with 35n2, but I am going to try to build a doorpanel layout for it and some other model ideas. 


Traingeekboy
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Kitbash0n30 wrote: Oh, talking exhaust stacks, 

cruise the industrial loco section here for all manner of stacks from the mundane to the nutcase, 

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/



All I saw was the main page. 

I feel I need a horn and a bell. I was looking at bells and I think I can turn one myself. 

We'll see how that project goes. ;) 

oh... o.k. Found it! http://www.northeast.railfan.net/industrial.html

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Here are several stacks and other details I have found interesting from looking through their Plymouth section:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/misc-f/fii00ags.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/amhx92.jpg

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/ref/collection/p15330coll22/id/52513

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/hetc1171.jpg

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1585149

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/court0.jpg

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/qmc2050.jpg

Note raised cab on this one  http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/misc-l/ltv025sta.jpg

Last edited on Tue Nov 13th, 2018 08:41 pm by Kitbash0n30

Traingeekboy
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Pretty cool. 

One engine had some interesting steps bolted on the outside of the loco. Those are a tempting addition.

I did think about doing this kind of arrangement.

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/court0.jpg

The small stack and sand dome here are interesting. 

Now to find a sand dome!

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/ref/collection/p15330coll22/id/52513


Kitbash0n30
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Note that I may have added a couple links while you were making your reply.

Yep, the industrial "critter" locomotives are pretty cool, almost anything goes.





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I am more into steam for narrow gauge. 

But the old gas critters with steam engine shaped sand domes really are a cross over stage. 

Never knew those existed. 

Now I gotta have one. :D



Kitbash0n30
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Traingeekboy wrote: ... Never knew those existed. ...

There are a number of places on here where that or similar has been said!

That's one of the great things about this forum.

And if you ever get in the mood for a bit of gasoline and lots of fresh air, there is:

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/brook2.jpg


Traingeekboy
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Oh man, Now I need a layout.








Traingeekboy
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Thanks for the info Kitbash.

I am moving along with buildering. 

I don't have access to more parts and my goal with this model is just to get something done and move on to the next stage, which has already begun, 
the abuse of a Tyco Special Forces gondola, so that I can have a loco and a freight car.

1 Loki + 1 Car = a train!

Bought some spray paint and strip wood last night. 
The Loki is drying after a warm wash in soapy water in preparation for a coat of rattle can paint.

The gondola has had all the extraneous details carved off with a chisel X-acto blade.

Time to do more Buildering! :D


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And now for:

THE ULTIMATE LOCO PAINTING FAILURE

I tested the paint color on the lower deck of the loco since it is not very detailed and can easily be repainted.

Everything is going great. The gloss rattle can paint looks good.

Now for FAIL!

I got the main loco body and began to do light over sprayings of the paint. If you work slow, you get no drips, right?

Looks good.  "HERE LET ME MOVE THESE MULLEIN WEEDS OUT OF THE WAY SO I CAN GET A BETTER ANGLE..."

At this point a shower of seeds and detritus fell on the wet loco body. 

I decided the best thing was to let it dry, remove the junk and sand any flaws.



 


Am I the first meat head to get weeds on a freshly painted model?


:bang: :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:



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Am I the first meat head to get weeds on a freshly painted model?

What about a cockroach?

Jose.




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You win!





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It's starting to look like a train.






I am already trying to decide on a layout plan for all this.

I know the limits of my attention with scratch building. Once it starts to feel Like work I tend to stop doing it.
 
So I have to think in terms of a tiny fleet of rolling stock and maybe 2 locos.

The floor to ceiling mountains and massive empire must wait. :P


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I have been looking at a lot of Tyco Trains online. They are so cheap. And they are ideal for my models.

I noticed I could even cut off part of the old couplers and they look more like knuckles. I'm cheap, so I may do this!

Now for my other idea.

I want some operating Gilpin ore cars. And I see 3 designs. here:







I am wondering if I can use the old Tyco operating covered hopper as the basis for a Gilpin-ish working model. 

Waddya think?







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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I like the look of the new 'Red Devil' !  :shocked:

The larger cab is giving the loco that elusive 'industrial feel' ...

... as in many of Kitbashes photo-links.  



Very distinctive.

Pimp my Plymouth ?  L:



:pimp: :pimp: :pimp: :pimp: :pimp:




Si.


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Si. wrote: Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I like the look of the new 'Red Devil' !  :shocked:

The larger cab is giving the loco that elusive 'industrial feel' ...

... as in many of Kitbashes photo-links.  



Very distinctive.

Pimp my Plymouth ?  L:



:pimp: :pimp: :pimp: :pimp: :pimp:




Si.





If I am pimpin' it, I better add a really big bass speaker in that cab and a sound decoder that has spacial sounds.  ;) 

Glad you like the Red Loki.  For all I know it's now too tall for 1:55n3 :P

Maybe we need a new discussion called Pimp My Loki! :D


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I posted a shot of my loco with the newly redone gondola up above.

Then I looked at real gondolas and realized they are just flat cars with walls added onto them. 

My first attempt didn't have a deck for the flat car. I decided to rip off the lowest beam and redo it.

I added a trimmed off piece of some old siding I had around and put it on with the grain pointing out to simulate planks.

Then I replaced the bottom beam with more of my thin veneer, so that I can add side braces onto the car.

Last pic of Special forces before it gets covered over.






The gon all ready for the NEW treatment with tricky thin wood.






And a couple shots of it with the added lumber.











Eh, this scratch building takes time. 

Then again, shopping for RTR trains and track takes even longer and you aren't even model railroading!

Ok, I admit to having purchased some 15" radius curve track as the beginning of my new layout. 

And I have been eyeing the old cast metal boiler models of HO 4-4-0 locos for my next power unit.

I looked at all the Bachmann stuff, but a loco in On30 that I would want to cut up and small-ify, is 150.00 or more. 

Whereas the old Tyco locos can be got for about 12 bucks +/-.


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I'm cheap. 

It dawned on me I could simply use the old Hornhook couplers by cutting off the extra junk.











Instant knuckle coupler for free!

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" Eh, this scratch building takes time. 
Then again, shopping for RTR trains and track takes even longer and you aren't even model railroading! "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:


It's important to remain positive & think of the advantages !  :old dude:



Erm ... well ... You don't have to keep putting up more & more shelving for all the 'boxes' to go on.  L:

No more damaging your eyesight, trying to read the small print in the latest Trainworld ad.  :shocked:

You can just peer blindly at tiny wire grab-irons, as you drill holes in your thumb nails instead !  :f:

All that fun super-gluing yourself to your latest creation, isn't something you can brag about as an RTR hoarder.  ;)

Just think of the great health benefits, breathing in the huge amounts of dust & paint fumes as well.  :sad:



There are just SO MANY great reasons for scratch-building ... the list is endless.  ???



[toast]




Si.

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Thanks Si!

I'm new to it, and yes... Ahhhh the smell of Micro Weld and Squadron Putty permeates the house now. ;)

It was Woody who drew me to this forum by posting his outdoor layout; I was already working on my own HO garden railway.

And now a couple years later I've finally taken the plunge.

There is definitely something odd going on here on this forum and most of it is in these non standard narrow gauge scales. 

People are just building things that look like real trains, but I see more free style modeling here than anywhere else.

Those of you guys who have moved beyond strict prototype modeling must know what I am talking about. 

It's more than just scratch building. It is all about letting your creativity have free reign.

I hope I don't bore people with my endless posts, but I am just having too much fun doing my "crap-building" and also seeing some of the layouts here.

Oh yeah, and it is a huge break from my my day job. The past five years of day job have been relentless and this little break feels like a vacation. ;)

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More "Crap Buildering"  :P














Gondola ends done. 

It will need some side braces and could pass for some home made car somewhere.

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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I do like the look of the new gas guzzler conversion !  :thumb:



Your  SPECIAL FORCES !  gon. is lookin' pretty groovy as well.  :pimp:

I guess I now know that 'Tri-ang'(TM) was not alone in it's  BATTLE SPACE !  line of green military trains.  :Salute:



What I would really like to see in the ^^ photo, is a scale figure & a scale auto of some sort.

It would really put the new loco & car in context of the 'BIGger woRLD'.  :P



BUT ... This is maybe the tricky part.

You have got to get a figure & auto, that are the correct 1:55 scale.  L:

To my mind, that really means that your figure should be 6ft or 33.250909mm tall.

An auto needs to be scaled right as well, No Model-Ts that have shrunk in the wash.  :shocked:



Matchbox(TM) 'Models Of Yesteryear' could be worth checking out on eBay.

SOME but NOT ALL in that series are 1:55 scale I think, including several trucks & a couple of others maybe.





I believe this Mack AC truck is 1:55 scale, if yer likes 'em.



That could take a while to do that.  :time:

In the meantime ...

... can you draw a 33.250909mm tall figure on some cardboard & cut it out for a selfie in front of The Red Barron !

You know, rifle-range target styleee.  :Salute:

You could print a 1:55 scale photo of your favourite politician to stick on it !  :f:



Demanding aren't we ! ? ...

... & for  $%@&§  ?$&%  spend a couple o' $$ Buck$ on some decent couplers ... PLEASE.  ;)



:cool:




Si.

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I was actually thinking the same thing. I need a figure or two to stand next to the model.
 
I am not really into old trucks, so my layout will be set in the 1890's and after period.

I will get some horses and wagons.

The loco is really just a place holder for the next stage when I modify a steam loco. :P

Of course, I am not picky. Maybe I will do a scene with 35mm figures, and another with 1.48

I am just not too worried 'bout it.

And, I still need to build the water car and a caboose.


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Strangely enough, I live maybe four blocks from Otto Perry.

I should stop in. :D

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/68076/rec/61



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Great bashings here.
I'll follow now on.

Keep posting!

Daniel

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Thanks Daniel.

I do not think I will ever reach your level of mastery.

But, I am having fun.
I don't really bother too much with measuring too closely.
I just want to get some basic models that I can run on an oval of track.

I used to try to get really obsessive about things.
I found myself getting nothing done.
Over the years I have half built way too many things.
So I just do what feels enjoyable and relaxing when I can.

I won't add any brake wheels or stirrups just yet.
Detail parts cost money.

I kept looking at the car sides and the lack of ribs, or stakes, made them look too plain.
I added some eyeballed vertical strip wood onto the car and I think it looks better.










Ok, now you can't even see that those are modern HO scale trucks, as they are hidden below. ;)

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Well, if you would spend any energy on reaching anyone else's 'mastery' you would have spoiled your chance: developing your own!!!

The only true mastery is not about technics or results but about being true and investing your joy of living in whatever you do.
That is: following your own star.

Yes, the sides of the wagon looked a bit bald and your solution is just perfect.
Would be an option to make small holes and insert pins so their heads suggest bolts?
Even easier, you can also insert pieces of thin styrene rods,
but the cheapest way may be inserting the points of wooden toothpicks and once the PVA glue has really dried cut them almost flush.
If they are protruding too much you can easilly sand them with a narrow strip of sandpaper glued to a stripwood.
That way you can sand all the rivets of one post at once.

Another tip that costs nothing but improves the look:
with a sharp blade, making at regular spacing slight vertical incisions simulating the joints of the floor boards at the outer ends.
It would look as the one caused by adding a strip of wood to make the floor reach the right end at last photo.

Just my two cents.

Daniel

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Keep up with the good work and keep the photos coming,

I'm watching the progress with great interest.

:2t:........Peter




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Daniel Osvaldo Caso wrote: Well, if you would spend any energy on reaching anyone else's 'mastery' you would have spoiled your chance: developing your own!!!

The only true mastery is not about technics or results but about being true and investing your joy of living in whatever you do.
That is: following your own star.

Yes, the sides of the wagon looked a bit bald and your solution is just perfect.
Would be an option to make small holes and insert pins so their heads suggest bolts?
Even easier, you can also insert pieces of thin styrene rods,
but the cheapest way may be inserting the points of wooden toothpicks,
and once the PVA glue has really dried cut them almost flush.
If they are protruding too much you can easilly sand them with a narrow strip of sandpaper glued to a stripwood.
That way you can sand all the rivets of one post at once.

Another tip that costs nothing but improves the look:
with a sharp blade, making at regular spacing slight vertical incisions simulating the joints of the floor boards at the outer ends.
It would look as the one caused by adding a strip of wood to make the floor reach the right end at last photo.

Just my two cents.

Daniel


Some of your ideas have been in my head already.
But you are helping me understand HOW to do them.
Thank You.

I will wait.
I need more train cars because I really like PLAYING with trains.

Next up will be the Tank Car conversion to some kind of water car.

I have already cut off the excess detail,
all it needs is some wood to lower and widen the look. ;)


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2foot6 wrote: Keep up with the good work and keep the photos coming,

I'm watching the progress with great interest.

:2t:........Peter


Thanks Peter, do you have a layout thread on here?


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Nice that it was of some help.:wave:

Daniel

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In the Old Days, I lived about a mile and a half from Caboose Hobbies.
If I needed anything while working on a project, I could be there in minutes and get that, obscure, but highly needed, whatever.

Those days are gone.

While putting on the braces on the unfinished side of the car, I decided that the ends of the car looked wrong.
You could see how thin the veneer is.
I had to hide that with some more braces!

And then, I lost my mind.
My practice car now has " Super Detailing" In the form of one brake wheel.  :P












As you can see the brake wheel has teeth.
You shouldn't stand so close to my "Crap Building" models!

I had an old broken watch in a can full of screws and nails.
Once spotted, it had stuck in my head that I could use the gears for something.

I'll let you figure out the rest of the story for your self.  :P


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The car is getting really beautiful.

The brake wheel is a beauty but, poor fellow, those teeth will destroy his work gloves after every switching session!

Are you aware of this?

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/watch-gears-lot

Daniel


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It is very icy during the winter.
Special "geared" gloves are used on the slippery "geared" brake wheels to turn them  :P

We have a lot of thrift stores here in Denver.
I am a junk collector.

There is a store that is all junk things here in Denver.
I have found amazing modeling supplies there for almost no cost.

https://www.mapquest.com/us/colorado/surplus-tools-commodities-9986926


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:hyp: ... L: ...  Geared gloves... ? ... :2t:

You are on the right track!!!


:bow:

:bow:  :bow:

:bow:  :bow:  :bow:


Regarding those shops:
they are one of the heavy drugs Mr. Wallet don't allow me to take any more. :bang:

(... but I still manage to visit one of those chines ones where I get the super cheap spray glue...
while Mr. Wallet is having one of his siestas.:us:)

Daniel


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Most of the things I find no one else really wants.

One day I wandered into Surplus Tools and there was a box of these filters, that likely come from faucets.

At the time, I was doing N scale.  I thought, Oh my, Metal Chain Link Fence!

When I was doing my loco rebuild on the Red Devil, I thought I could modify the front end and add a grill.

I may still do that.



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Oh, yes; it is great pleasure to see in things what they are not but could be!

That is also the core of my modeling.

[toast]

Daniel



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More of the same.

It could really use some scribing for individual planks, I did do some as a test.

It could also use some nails holes.

I will let it sit while I begin on the tank car which is seen in the background.










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:apl:

:apl: :apl:

:apl: :apl: :2t:

Can't wait to see that tank car on track!

Daniel

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Surprisingly the Tank Car was the easiest to retrofit.





Here it is with the details cut off, so the wood will lay flat.





The basic underframe is on now.





And we have a tank car!





My sloppy nail holes.





A train!

The Loco needs more paint, and the two cars need a little bit of both love and abuse.

Love in the form of perhaps more detail work with a hobbyknife, and abuse in the form of weathering.


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Looks great to me.

Are you going to give it also a pair of ladders?

Two strips of wood with steps made of wire or, eventually, 1/4" staples would do it.


Daniel

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I might do ladders. But for now it works for me.

I really want one of these.





http://www.freerails.com/gallery/4568/4568_230432_530000000.jpg

It will be all scratch built though. Sort of a new concept for me.


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:2t:


Daniel

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I am beginning with my next fully scratch built project.





Here I have put the blue lines at 6 feet apart.

Then I cut and pasted another layer into my scale rule and expanded it until it fit within the lines.





And here I have expanded a rendering that shows the side panel plank width.

I use a 50% opacity to line it up so I can measure it.

I will print both drawings out at scale so I can be sure of my measurements.


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I felt pretty good about my models, until this afternoon when I printed out the plan at full scale.
Although there is plenty of space under the car to use 3' gauge trucks, it is all wrong.
The wheels would have to be too large.

Then when I held the plan up next to my Loco I realized my loco roof is about 4 feet taller than the caboose.
I am in crisis now.
I may have to make everything to a different scale.
Perhaps at 35mm scale it would be more within the scope of the loco and other cars.

And it still needs a small layout to go with.
I keep re-using the name of Glimmering as one town name.
It's kind of like glittering and seems like a good mine town name of no fixed location.
Perhaps the Glimmering Tramway?

So, if I go 35mm, how do I measure things?
There must be a 35mm scale rule all of you 2' modelers use.





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It gets more complicated.

Here is world Famous Soccer Goalie: Gigi Buffon.

I have placed him on my blue print of the Gilpin/Gigi Caboose.





Ok that works, AS you can see I have actually put 2 Gigi Buffons on the drawing.
One Gigi has just made a miraculous save from the back deck of a Gilpin caboose.

And in the other he is actually flying out of the window of a Gilpin Caboose to make yet another miraculous save--He's just that Good!

But now look at how tiny Gigi is next to my Loco.
Gigi is about 6'3", and he just looks too small!





I don't see how I can do this without changing scales and making my loco smaller.
The loco is measuring out to 20' in 55n3.
Seems just wrong for a small gas loco.

Waddya think?


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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Yeah ... There haven't been too many 5' tall goalies, that I know about anyway.  :P

Pat Jennings was Arsenals ACE goalkeeper back in the day ...  :thumb:

... & at about 6'3" the same as Gigi, probably would have got splinters from heading the Gilpin caboose roof !  :shocked:



The clearance from the end platforms to under the roof sills is a dead on 6' as far as I recall.  L:

The caboose being exactly 14' long & 6' wide as well. 



I don't think Gigi has got much of a chance at a 1:35 scale NBA tryout either !  :f:


- - - - - - -


" Perhaps at 35mm scale it would be more within the scope of the loco and other cars "



You shouldn't call 1:35 scale "35mm scale" ^^ as it's rather misleading ...  ???

... almost implying that it might be 35mm/ft, which it obviously isn't.



A 6' tall 1:35 scale figure, is within a couple of cigarette-papers of being exactly 2" high.

Or about 52mm tall, compared to 33.5mm for a 6' figure in 1:55 scale.



I have no idea where this idea about using 28mm war-gaming figures for 1:55n3 came from, cos they are WAY out !  ???



I couldn't even begin to make any models without a 6' scale figure & a 'true scale' Model-T Ford, or the like.
Far more useful & essential than the scale-rule which I have, but very rarely use.  :brill:



What do I think ?



Well ... I don't really 'get it', the idea of modelling in 1:55n3 ...

... all it gets you is a 'correct' 3' gauge on regular HO/On30 16.5mm track.



1:35 scale gets you a 'correct' 2' Gilpin gauge, on regular HO/On30 16.5mm track ...

... but you ALSO have the MASSIVE advantage of all the stuff made for one of the worlds most popular scales ...

... you just can't buy RTR trains in that scale !  :P



Well, you know what scale I do ...  :cool:

... so go figure what I think.  :)



:moose:



Si.



There are some great 1:35 figure sets out there, for a few $ Bucks a pop.  :)
 
If you want a recommendation for a couple of good ones to search for, just ask, there are LOADS.
'Matchbox Models Of Yesteryear' & another $$ couple o' Bucks, gets you a basic diecast Model-T Ford.  :old dude:



Then you can see where you're going scale wise, with a few items on the bench to judge things by.  L:


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And yes, there IS a 1:35 scale ruler available!
Search here on FR (search feature)...some time back, I found them and posted a link.
Or just look the scale rule up on Google...as I recall, they were very expensive...a good bit under $5 USD.
How about this, print off one of those guys in 1:35 scale and see how your little lokie looks then.
I'll bet you will find what you want.

Woodie


***Maybe try 8.25MM = 12"...that way HO/On30 gauge becomes 2 foot gauge.





The red/yellow thing is an HO scale NMRA gauge which shows that in 1:35 scale, 16.5MM gauge is in fact 24" gauge.


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Ok, so I am getting my terms wrong. 1/35 scale.

And so, I don't need a perfect plastic scale. I will simply do some math and make a paper scale for my models.

Boy, this whole modeling experiment just keeps getting weirder.

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Something that worked for me when started with my cocktail of 1/35 to 1/32 stuff,
was to keep at hand reach a figure in each scale.

I rarely measure anything but whatever I intend to add to the layout,
must please the eyes when confronted with those figures. :us:


Magoo


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- - - - - - -


" Ok, so I am getting my terms wrong "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Just to be clear.
I'm not one to tell anyone off' for getting 'terms' wrong.  :old dude:

But plain straight MATHS ... YES !

" 35mm scale " ... Sounds like a new film from Kodak(TM) maybe ...  ;)

... or a European Standard water-pipe.  ???





As I said on the previous << Page, having a TRUE SCALE figure to test your 'eye' & 'builds' by ... is THE LAW.  :shocked:

An automobile, truck or horse etc. would work well too.

A scale-rule can tell you how things 'measure', but NEVER if they are gonna look RIGHT.  L:



It's no good 'approximating' either in my view & ending up with cumulative errors over longer measurements etc.  :f:

Getting freelance scratchbuilt stuff to come out the 'right' size, is even more tricky than prototype modelling.

At least with something like the Gilpin caboose, you KNOW it's 14' long & what size wheels it has ... PERIOD.  :P

When concocting 'freelance' models, you do have to be careful not to break your own 'rules'.  L:





This might seem oDd or 'wrong' to some people, but I make fundamental 1:35 scale calculations all the time.

My method, in combination with 'actual' figures & autos etc. rarely lets me down.  :)

And YES back in the day, in HO, 1:48 & 1/2" scale, I made monumental cock-ups in scale sometimes !  :f:



1:35 scale

304.8mm / 35 = 8.7085714mm per Foot

x14' long Gilpin caboose = 121.92mm

( I'd call that 122mm since I don't actually have a pine-cone, you know where ... )  ;)



The thing is for me, is that when I cut my main car underframe beams ...

... I wanna know how long they REALLY are in 1:1 mm.

Some people might prefer knowing this in fractions of an Inch ie. 'a bit over' 4 3/4" !

Or easier to calculate decimal-fractions of an Inch, which just happens to be EXACTLY 4.800" !



Despite not having that pine-cone, I always use ALL seven decimal-places on my pocket-calculator ...

( a lovely vintage American 'Rockwell' red L.E.D. model I rather like, despite making the Energizer Bunny very happy ! )  :cool:

... when doing something like an overall carbuild or a structure dimension.



For smaller stuff like doors, windows, benches & figures etc. ...

... I'd be satisfied knowing that 8.7mm x 6' = 52.2mm ... OR ... 2.055' metric Inches.

... the EXACT height of Wolfy, my 1:35 scale 'crash test dummy' !





So in fact, I didn't actually need my modellers 1:35 scale-rule, for any of that at all ...
... It is WAY WAY WAY easier ( for me at least ) to convert 1:35 dimensions, to 'real world' 1:1 mm.  :brill:



:moose:



Si.



My bench ...  :Crazy:

... engineers-rules, calipers, graph-paper etc. etc.  :shocked:

But a 1:35 modellers 'scale-rule' ?  ???

Nowhere to be seen !  :us:





Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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I love your work, Si!!!:2t:

Daniel

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Ok all good info.

That was the original goal on my end. I built my loco according to the proportions that looked right.

And this is why I am now deciding to change scales. It has to look right to the eye.

Thus the key is merely this simple equation:

1:35 scale

304.8mm / 35 = 8.7085714mm per Foot

x14' long Gilpin caboose = 121.92mm

Or, 8.7 X 6 makes Gigi Buffon roughly 52mm tall!

I think a journey to the local hobby store for a grip of 1/35th scale people is in the works.
Never did locate a source for 28mm that would look right.

The Loco came out to 38mm wide as is/was.
It's clearly not a HO model, but something else.

And when I added the extra stripwood to my train cars they ended up at 38mm wide too.
So my trains are at 4.36 feet wide.
This is now a bit small...

OOoooofffffff.... I should never have tried to do a "Prototype" build!


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And then I looked at other 1/35th scale layouts on here.

Will I be needing a scale rule if I want one of these on my layout too?





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" Gigi Buffon roughly 52mm tall "


Hi T.G.B.  :wave:


Gigi Buffon is actually 54.428571mm tall !  :old dude:  (_!_)



" So my trains are at 4.36 feet wide. This is now a bit small "  :f:



Not really ...  :)

... The Gilpin Tram had flat-cars about this width & so did the Maine S.R.& R.L. ...





... also the Gilpin Tram ore-cars are about that width or a tad wider as well ...





... a 'Tri-ang' HO ore-car is a DEAD RINGER for a 1:35n2 Gilpin ore-car ( pretty much ) ...

... that HO ore-car you Posted a photo of a while back, looked pretty useable/moddable as well.



It might be that jumping to 1:35 will be TOO BIG a leap in scale, if you just want a figure to suit your loco ...  ???

... it might be that a 1:48/On30 figure at 1 1/2" high, would stand well next to your loco.



Decisions ... decisions ... Mmm ...  L:



Oh well ... Once you are sorted on scale etc. ...

... then all that wondering & guess-work etc. is behind you & it's FULL THROTTLE all ahead ...

...  s  l  o  w  ;)



:moose:



Si.






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I just can't do On30. Call it a quirk. It has to be 2' or 3'.

And it has to be home made.

It is just going to have to be 1/35th scale mini layout with 15" radius curves and small locos and stock.



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No, you can get around 1:35 scale without a scale ruler.
Do what Daniel and I do...get a couple of 1:35 scale figures, they can be soldiers or whatever, and use them to "set the scale".
I don't even use a scale ruler but have a couple just so I can say that I measure stuff correctly (yeah, right).
I included the photo of the 1:35 scale ruler and an HO standards gauge just because years ago,
some fellow posted that I "should" be modelling 1:36.759 scale or some such s%^t to make the gauge correct.
But then those who worry about correct-ness never seem to build anything except fantasy.
The use of a scale figure helps to determine things like door heights, roof heights, things like that.
When I modeled in HO and O scale, I did have scale rulers but never used them, a figure or two did the job.

Woodie

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Oh yeah... That's right!

I am a 1:36.759%$&#! modeler.

Thanks, I'll make sure to deduct that 1.7.%*^#! from my future models.

Thanks Woodie!


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W C Greene wrote: No, you can get around 1:35 scale without a scale ruler.
Do what Daniel and I do...get a couple of 1:35 scale figures, they can be soldiers or whatever, and use them to "set the scale". ...
The use of a scale figure helps to determine things like door heights, roof heights, things like that.
When I modeled in HO and O scale, I did have scale rulers but never used them, a figure or two did the job.

Woodie


Makes sense.

No matter what the scale is, or isn't,
if things don't look 'right' with the figures being used,
then they will always look not quite right.


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" Do what Daniel and I do...get a couple of 1:35 scale figures "  :dt:


:java: :y:

I've only been saying that ... since about Post No.65  :old dude:  :-



" As I said on the previous << Page, having a TRUE SCALE figure to test your 'eye' & 'builds' by ... is THE LAW. 

An automobile, truck or horse etc. would work well too.

A scale-rule can tell you how things 'measure', but NEVER if they are gonna look RIGHT "



:doh:  It's not rocket appliances ...


Si.






W C Greene
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Don't worry Si...I have been saying (writing) things since **** and nobody reads them.
Just like most things in this and other hobbies, techniques and "discoveries" come around about every 20 years and somebody usually says
"I just developed this" or "I just discovered this".

I've got some ocean front property in Tucson for sale...
Woodie


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I never had in my hands a scale ruler!!!

May be one day we'll be free enough to learn and accept that relative sizes of things in a scene are not meant to be a science,
but a very important aspect of our expression.
As artists discovered at the beginning of the 20th century, it had always been in African sculpture,
where accentuated or downsized 'reality'(...!) dimensions express the relative importance for the maker of aspects of the image...

Our main problem is we spoil our hobby comparing what we do:
we compare with what others do or did, we compare it with what we have done before,
and -the worse of all- we compare it with what we had in mind!
That is all simply destructiveness.

What we build is not often 'wrong' but what we judge about it is!

That is why we should learn more from uncontaminated beginners instead of smiling condescendingly at
(wrongly assuming that we 'know better'), comparing or judging what they bring up.

But there is hope:
life gives us as many chances as we need to wake up and have more respect for our own and other's 'errors'.

Sorry, I am too old to feel any respect for 'rules' of any kind. :wave:


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That's the whole Updah philosophy! It's supposed to be On30 and thus 1/48 but nothing's "to scale" but it all sort of fits - well, to me anyway! 

Figures range from supposedly 28mm, 1/50, 1/48, 1/43 and probably some more although their true scale is dubious in many cases,
but they all live happily together as do we 1:1 versions who come in all shapes and sizes.

Buildings are constructed around door openings that allow the little people to get in and out,
and as for rolling stock and locos, that's anybody's guess.
You could say that the Bachmann stuff is 1/48 but I constantly read that they're under scale and a compromise in design anyway. 
So much easier and more fun to build what suits you. 
And remember, Rule No.1 always applies - It's my railroad and.........! (_!_)


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Doug

[toast]

Daniel

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Seems to be some kind of theme going here.

Well I don't need a scale rule.
Just need to convert a drawing to the scale I want,
and then I am going to do something insane and try my first board by board build.

Why would I go to these lengths?
Because I'm cheap and I do not have scribed siding for this model; gotta make my own.


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Traingeekboy wrote: Because I'm cheap and I do not have scribed siding for this model; gotta make my own.

Sounds just like a lot of what was in Railroad Model Craftsman magazine

(that's the one that was from New Jersey, not Milwaukee)


when I started model railroading in the 1970s. :)


Traingeekboy
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Kitbash0n30 wrote: Traingeekboy wrote: Because I'm cheap and I do not have scribed siding for this model; gotta make my own.

Sounds just like a lot of what was in Railroad Model Craftsman magazine

(that's the one that was from New Jersey, not Milwaukee)


when I started model railroading in the 1970s. :)



That was a good magazine. 

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Now you got it!
Over many years of building things, I have found that I love making my own stuff far more than opening a box and reading instructions.
These days, I could easily afford expensive kits and RTR equipment but then I would be throwing instructions in the trash,
and making my own thing from the supplied materials and taking the RTR loco apart and making something totally different from the parts.
You seem to be that way also, make it yourself, save a bundle, and have what YOU want...not what some company thinks you want.
Now, get out the blades and saws and glue and get to work.

Woodie


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Now we're talkin'!!  :thumb:

Instructions?! 
Geeze I don't know if I've ever read any that made an sense, or if they did, I didn't like the end result. 
I always change up the stuff that I build, kit or otherwise. 
None of it ever looks like what I bought.

:P


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:old dude:

When someone asks for advice, it is important to give GOOD advice.

It's all very well saying TEAR UP THE RULE BOOK for whatever reason ...

... but that is hardly GOOD advice for someone with a SPECIFIC problem with 'scale'.



I'd be the FIRST to say that about the rule book, if I was totally 'free' to do so !

But I can't & I'm not !!



The central issue of 'scale' seems to me to be pretty important to what we are doing ...

... if we are trying to create a 'small slice of reality' on our benches.

A 'master model maker' may well be able to throw together stuff from all sorts of different scales & make it 'work' ...

... but we are not all 'master model makers' !



The thing is, confronted by something which is OUT OF SCALE it's damn hard to just ignore !

It could totally wreck the 'illusion' & despite the fact that it is a lovely well made model ...

... it SUCKS !



But of course the ... 'its my railroad I'll do what the $%&£ I want'  ism ... may well be fine for the builder.

If that's what makes a good model to them, fine.

If that's GOOD advice for someone with a specific question about scale ? ...

... it isn't.



Of course you can't just 'upscale' what you have, to a larger scale, without stuff that looks OK, then becoming too small !

There is only SO FAR you can 'push' the upscale or downscale thing, before it just falls apart & looks like what it isn't.



So how far is too far ?

Well, you can be the judge of that ...

... after all it's your $%&£ing railroad !

But if it looks WRONG ... then it generally IS wrong.



:moose:



Si.



No comment whatsoever intended about T.G.B.s models B.T.W.

As I have expressed on numerous occasions through the Thread they are lookin' good.

( except for the couplers ! )

He just has a few 'what scale am I doing ?' questions to answer & then business as usual !


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Good points.


Despite having been into trains all my life, I am sort of in newbie mode.

Your points about needing some kind of useful reference are worth noting.


I don't take too kindly when people criticize my Crapplers though. :glad:



Right now work has taken over my life again.

But I am still planning and plotting a little bit.


Traingeekboy
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I've been working a lot, tons of huge deadlines on the job.

Now that I have met the deadlines, I am digging into this scale thing again.

The first three builds were just fun to do.
I would just look at what was there and use it to make these models.

I asked my buddy if I could borrow some Tamiya figures from his military models collection,
and he loaned me an unbuilt kit to play with.





So, here are some 1/35th scale figures in a side view of my little loco.





When I look at the back, the loco door seems tiny. Should I even care?





I measured my HO scale track and then used twice that to estimate 6 feet.
It comes out closer to 35mm as a figure scale.





Now here is my caboose drawing at 1/35th scale with the loco and figures.

My buddy said to go with 1/35 since I am just messing around.

My mental concept was to merely take old HO things and build over and onto them.
At this point if I go with 1/35th it would be easier to completely scratch build the caboose model.

The scratch build might be easier as I would just build the frame and then build the box structure.

Another thing I noticed is that since in 1/55 I was using prototypes that were more like 2' gauge,
I was losing a bit of the Narrow aspect on the trains.

If I go full on 1/35th, the overhang on the trucks will be more extreme and give more of a dinky look to tho everything.

If I use 1/55th, then my planned project after the caboose,
is to take an old HO scale 4-4-0 and make some kind of Fantasy loco with that as well.
So in 1/35th this might end up as a really dinky loco.

Lastly, Considering the size of my models and the gauge, another good question is:
Why not just split the difference and do On30?

Yo Tengo Muchos Problemas


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L: ...

:java:

:wave:


Daniel

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On a complete side note.

Went by the local Goodwill store. I was on the hunt for model materials.
The one thing I was missing is some wire to bend into grab irons and steps.





Sure enough, this was right there in front of me.
It was untagged and the cashier charged me .53 cents.

This is likely enough wire to last me for years.
Uhm, 18" pieces times 35 is 52 and a half feet!

And more ruminations on scale...





Look at the HO scale wheels next to a 1/35th model of the caboose.
Maybe it's not as extreme in this photo, but in real life my wheels are way too small.

With the 1/55th drawing the wood comes out almost exact for the board by board look, and the wheels are much closer. 

Perhaps my materials are going to solve my problem for me?


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" Look at the HO scale wheels next to a 1/35th model of the caboose.

Maybe it's not as extreme in this photo, but in real life my wheels are way too small "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I had been wondering if THAT was going to be the next BIG, or 'small', hiccup on your path to narrow gauge NIRVANA !  :P



As you have just discovered ... HO wheels are generally going to look WAY too small for 1:35n2  :f:

You are right, your ^^ photo   (probably due to the wide-angle camera lens) doesn't show just quite how BIGger difference there is either !



If yours were 36" HO passenger truck wheels, they would be in 1:35 scale, a full 5.5" diameter too small for Gilpin Tram 20" wheels.

BUT, it looks like they are probably even smaller regular 33" HO freight car wheels, which would make them over 6.5" too small in 1:35n2  :shocked:



I'm guessing the wheels you have are 9.64mm diameter ...

... to represent the 1:1 Gilpins 20" wheels in 1:35n2, they should be 14.5mm diameter.

So they are almost exactly 5mm too small, or about 6.5" - 7" too small in 1:35n2 scale.  :java:

:brill:


- - - - - - -


Some wheely useful 1:35 scale information :-  ;)


1 : 1  in  1 : 35


24.0"  -  17.4mm  D.& R.G.W. 3' gauge 'Griffin' wheels

20.0"  -  14.5mm  Gilpin Tram 2' gauge truck wheels

17.4"  -  12.7mm  'M.M.M.M.M.& M.Co.' wheels ( On30 24" or OO 'Hornby' Brit. goods wagon type )

14.5"  -  10.51mm  Walthers ( HO 36" ) passenger truck wheels

13.2"  -  9.64mm  Athearn ( HO 33" ) freight truck wheels

11.2"  -  8.18mm  Kadee ( HO 28" ) 'old timey' type smallest wheels


- - - - - - -


Most of my 1:35n2 car builds, are very roughly based around basic dimensions of The Gilpin Tram 2' gauge rolling stock.  L:

Found in the 'Colorado & Southern' Folio of 100 years ago. :old dude:





Their caboose was the widest car that they ran, it was exactly 6' wide ! :thumb:





And 14' long. :pimp:






- - - - - - -


Just to make a quick preemptive STRIKE FORCE ! blubformation attack ...

... your next hurdle to narrow gauge Nirvana (if it isn't already) could well be COUPLERS !  :Salute:





The couplers I use are On3 scale 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution couplers.

In 1:35 scale these perfectly represent a 3/4-size narrow-gauge coupler.  :thumb:

They are easy to get hold of, pretty darn cheap, work good, are easy to install & look GREAT ! :)





And NO ! the Gilpin Tram DIDN'T use this type of coupler silly.  :us:

You think I didn't know that plastic hadn't been invented yet, back in 1908 !  [whack]



IMHO coupler positioning & height, is by far the most important part of your car build. :thumb:

This particularly influences the position of the bolsters in relation to the cars endbeams.



The bolsters should be as far to the end of the underframe as possible ...

... whilst still allowing for the mounting of the couplers.

This will minimise any unwanted coupler 'overhang'.



Bolster thickness, truck mounting & wheel diameter are ultimately what determine 'coupler height'.

This obviously needs to be TOTALLY consistent on all cars & locos. :cool:

Along with wheels, you really need to have some 'reference couplers' now ... BEFORE you start scratching bodies & underframes.





This diagram ^^ is for 'Kadee' On3 couplers.

I have never seen a similar diagram issued by the 'San Juan Car Co.'



But since their 1:48 scale couplers are compatible with the On3 'Kadee' ones ...

... these dimensions for the 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution couplers, used in 1:35n2, are OK, and what is good to aim for.



You can also see that 1/2" diameter standard On30 wheels will fit under the car, with 1/8" clearance to the bottom of the underframe.



PHEW !  :boogie:


And NO ! ... I haven't just sat on a pine-cone or something !  ;)

Knowing all this crap & sticking to it ...

... means I can be pretty confident that what I'm building will basically RUN WELL when done ...

... so I can relax  :cool:  & enjoy doing the modelling, without worrying that these basic specs. will trip me up later.  :f:



:java::moose:



Si.


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Si,

I'm sure all of you guys are likely just sitting back and going "Yep, I went through that phase."

And, "Oh, here he goes trying to figure out people size vs. models."

And "Oh now, he finally got around to the wheel sizes!"

Uh yeah, crapplers...

I actually have several bags of HO scale Kadee #5's... somewhere ?????

I went full circle on a lot of train stuff.
Toy trains... Dreams of amazing scratch built museum pieces in a perfectly rendered scene...
Now, I'm like, Gee I could die before I actually sort of finish a layout.

I agree on the Crapplers being crappy, but The thing that got me going was kind of like what Woodie wrote above:


" Over many years of building things, I have found that I love making my own stuff far more than opening a box and reading instructions."


It's the way I cook!
I know how to make certain things that I learned from my Italian mom.
I can make a million different amazing pasta dishes and soups from near nothing.
I just look at what's there and then make something.

Yet I got to that point by doing.


Just to quote you:

" And NO ! ... I haven't just sat on a pine-cone or something ! ;)

Knowing all this crap & sticking to it ...

... means I can be pretty confident that what I'm building will basically RUN WELL when done ...

... so I can relax :cool: & enjoy doing the modelling, without worrying that these basic specs. will trip me up later. :f: "


Yeah, I get it.
Whatever scale you are in you need to know where to source certain things so you can establish actual standards for your own layout.

I guess, I am working my way through this initial stage of establishing standards for my layout.


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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Don't worry about the "Crapplers being crappy" ...

... I'm allowed to have to oDd leg-pull now & again.



When you finally peel off 2 green-backs from the wad & score 'the real deal' ...

... you'll be going WOW ! these are the $4!7 mmaann ... T :cool: :cool:  C :cool: :cool: L  !


I thought the "Crapplers" were very innovative actually ...  :brill:

... but as Paul Newman said to Steve McQueen in 'Towering Inferno' :-


" These circuit-breakers they've installed aren't even nearly up to what I spec'ed "


& look what happened there !  :f:



" I actually have several bags of HO scale Kadee #5's... somewhere ??? ?? "



Well ... Let's hope you don't find them & spend 2 Bucks on something that looks good & works really well.  :P

Just remember Paul Newman spec'ed 2 Buck circuit-breakers, not those 50 Cent jobs ...

... & don't forget to check the fuse in your power-pack !  ;)



Apart from trucks & couplers, I scratch pretty much everything else & as Woodie says, it is an adventure !



Of course in oDdbAlL railroading scales like 1:55n3 or 1:35n2, there are no 'standards' anyway ...  :us:

... I very much doubt that the NMRA are burning the midnight oil trying to create any either !



The initial stages in 1:35n2 for me, were certainly an adventure, as I discovered what worked for me.

I think what you've made so far, with a bit of 'this & that' can easily be made to work OK in whatever scale you choose.



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.






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Ok, so what would a 3 foot gauge colorado line use for ties?

Actual dimensions?

how is that for yet another important question?

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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Well ... I dunno exactly what they would have used in Colorado.  L:



But if I ever get around to laying some track ...

... I've got my eye on some 5x3mm or 3/16"x1/8" Walnut stripwood for 1:35n2 scale.  :)



I've tried that size out against Code-83 & Code-100 rail & it looks good to me.

It's also a very similar size tie to PECO On30 'Crazy Track' which looks very good in 1:35n2 scale.



Sounds expensive huh ?  :f:

Well it isn't really if you buy a big bundle on eBay.  :bg:



I guess if you've got a suitable saw you could try cutting your own ...

... but with eBay at hand, quality bulk stripwood isn't like inflated modelshop prices.



Walnut looks really cool  :cool:  as well & saves staining problems etc.



I guess as far as 2' gauge goes, 4ft long ties sounds about OK ...

... for the BIG Colorado 3'ers I'd say 5ft long ties sound about right.



:moose:



Si.


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Yeah, I won't be doing any kind of exactness.

And I have looked at other people's layouts.

I see everyone is sort of doing kinda sorta looks right.



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An X2F coupler!.

Haven't seen one in AGES!!!.

Jose.



Traingeekboy
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pipopak wrote: An X2F coupler!.

Haven't seen one in AGES!!!.

Jose.


Expect to see more. :P

err...
just cutting up the Tyco Caboose underbody in preparation for a Gilpin-ish caboose build.





Yup, more X2F couplers. :D


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:doh:





Woodie :-  :cb:

" These appear to be the prototype for the NMRA X-2F couplers so popular in the last century.
Well, at least I am trying... "





Jose :-  :mex:

" Reminds me of the infamous X2F... "





Si. :-  :moose:

" All these great minds thinking in sync. "





& from Down-Under LITERALLY ! ... A damn fugly Aussie mining X2F !!  :shocked:


:doh:





Oztrainz :-  :cool:

" Because of the jaw geometry and locking tab,
these are less likely to have spontaneous uncoupling events than a traditional knuckle coupler.
... only permitted coupling for underground use "


L:


Well there you have it guys ...

... the sum-total of Freerails 1:1 prototype X2F knowledge !  :apl:



I think Oztrainz hit the nail on the head, or the Lincoln on the pinion, or whatever ...

... with his jaw-dropping (groan) geometry snaps.  :P



The NMRAs ingenious, or infamous as Jose  :mex: would have it, cheap plastic crappler design ...

... is very safe, cos once you get 'em ( or rather IF you get 'em ) coupled up OK ...

... you ain't EVER ! gonna get 'em uncoupled again in a month of Sundays !!  :f:



Now that's VERY safe !  :)

You can't say THAT about a rusting, Health & Safety law bustin', metal-fatigue ridden Lincoln-pin !!  :f:



As for the aesthetics ...

... Thank goodness they are only used UNDERGROUND ...

... where nobody can see them !  :!:



I'll retire to my underground bunker for a  :java:  now ...

... before the FLAK bombardment starts.  :shocked:



;)



Si.






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... you ain't EVER ! gonna get 'em uncoupled again in a month of Sundays !

That's why they were called COUPLERS.

Jose (who still (shugh!) remembers).



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Seems more legit than using some Kadee crapplers on equipment that should have link and pin couplers.

:P




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link and pin couplers....

for the seriously masochistic-inclined....

Jose.



Traingeekboy
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Back to wheels...

I did a reduce the wheel size to get dimension calc.
by dividing a standard 33" wheel by both scales.

33 / 87
= 0.37931034482759

20 / 55
= 0.36363636363636

So in HO scale the 33 inch wheel ends up being around 1/100th of an inch different in size.
I'm sure there will be those who look at my models and will have a complete OCD crisis.

Not to worry, Emotional Trauma Teams are on hand. :P

And Happy New Year everyone!


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" Back to wheels...

I did a reduce the wheel size to get dimension calc.
by dividing a standard 33" wheel by both scales.

33 / 87
= 0.37931034482759

20 / 55
= 0.36363636363636

So in HO scale the 33 inch wheel ends up being around 1/100th of an inch different in size.
I'm sure there will be those who look at my models and will have a complete OCD crisis.

Not to worry, Emotional Trauma Teams are on hand "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I'm pleased to hear that the " OCD crisis " ... " Emotional Trauma Teams are on hand " ...

... cos with your maths, you are gonna need them ! 

I'm not sure I can work out what those 2 calcs. ^^ are trying to establish ? ...

... no matter how long I look at them ? ?



Just to say something about my 1/100ths of a mm figures I posted on the wheels ...

... quite obviously, that level of 'resolution', for want of a better word, is what the pocket-calculator spits out !

Or rather, it isn't, because I've knocked off everything bellow 2 decimal places !

Should I 'knock off' the remaining 2 decimal-places as well, Government-statistics styleee ? 



Speaking about what I have here & see every day, wheel wise ...

... the difference between my 'standard' Bachman/Hornby wheel of 12.6 (1/2") ...

... & the next size up, of 14.1mm diameter ...

... its extra +/- 1.5mm dia. does not in ones mind, seem like much of a difference ...

... BUT in 'reality', not the world of 'The Matrix', the actual 'appearance' of those 2 different wheels is MASSIVE !!



Having a range of wheels in ones 'palette' has become an ESSENTIAL here at  M.M.M.M.M.& M.Co. ...

... when it comes to giving my various car build models the desired unique & 'differing look', according to size ...

... & making sure that couplers are mountable at ones chosen height.



For example, a smaller 4-wheeler mine-car, is on the LOW side of the 'norm' of 1/2" diameter wheels ...

... & has come to get fitted with, through trial & error & experience, the smallest eg. HO freight-truck wheels.

The 'median' wheels & trucks though for 1:35n2, are still essentially the regular 'Bachmann' On30 size of 1/2" ...

... or 'Hornby' 12.6mm same-size Brit. goods-wagon wheels.

These look 'right' from 10ft away !



So far I have only used the larger 14.1mm wheels on 2 builds ...

... which were the trial underframe for one of my cranes ...

... & a double-ended railcar, under development.



'Bachmann' On30 side-dump cars look very nice in 1:35n2 ...

... they come as standard, with what are basically HO smaller size wheels.

The 'contrast' between these, the median of 1/2", & the larger 14.1mm wheels, is nice to see together ...

... it WORKS !



I only learned this by looking & experience though, NOT by tapping away at my pocket-calculator !



The references in my Thread BTW, to using & modding various HO trucks ...

... are ALL with reference to 'Tri-ang' big & chunky HO diecast trucks from the swingin' '60s !

These are WAY WAY WAY bigger in overall appearance, to say Athearn/Kadee/Walthers 'normal' HO trucks.

A possible comparison might be between 'Lionel' & regular 1:48 scaled models.



The 'oversized' diecast HO trucks I mod. & use a lot of, are on the same footing size wise, to 'Bachmann' On30 trucks.

Much bigger in overall appearance than 'regular' HO ones.



In all cases, it took having the 'real thing' in front of me, on the bench, to properly appraise their different qualities.

Scale-rules, drawings & pocket-calculators tell one nothing of these things.

BUT getting ones head around the 'scale maths' on 'the basics' of trucks & couplers, is obviously essential.



Start with something 'average' as the 'median' ...

... & then see whether you wish to go bigger, or smaller from there.



Or don't bother about any of this & just use any old wheels & trucks you have & see what happens.

Be prepared to run into overhang, operational difficulties, appearance & coupler-height problems though ...

... if things such as this, are just an afterthought to making eg. a car-build ...

... & then whacking whatever you have to hand under it.



I use my eyes, not a scale-rule, pocket-calculator or 'dogma' to decide these things.

The way it should be in my opinion.

I love it when a plan comes together !

 

:moose:



Si.


Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Great post, Si.

Those coupler photos have given me a good lesson.
Thank you.

Daniel


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No matter how close to the nth inch/mm you try to go, somebody WILL find something to bitch about.

So just do whatever looks right to you.

Jose.




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Finally getting to the stage of using my print outs of the scaled plan to cut the walls and windows.















A bright light helps too.





The plan also helps with window placement if you fold it.
I have misplaced my caliper, so this is my only option for now.





And of course, I had forgotten how a blade can actually work like a rail splitter and break your wood apart.
I am going to have to glue the walls to paper before assembly.


Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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:2t::2t::2t:

Daniel

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I hate it when I split a side like that. :sad: 

Paper is a good recovery though. 

Keep on!



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Use REAL sharp blades and light pressure.

Let the blade work it's way without forcing it.

Jose.



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Ok, that is a useful tip: sharp blades/light pressure.

Old Hamhock Hands is of course having to re-glue.





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Gluing it is not a problem, TGB.
All you need is a straight ruler of any kind, and glue.

You set the underside of the big piece against the ruler,
and then a bit of glue in the needed area of the smaller piece,
and then you put it at a few millimeters from the bigger piece, against the ruler.
 
Then you slide it along the ruler's edge until it is against the other part.
A piece of nylon covering both and some not exaggerated weight ensures they will join without distortion.

The most difficult part -at least for me- is giving it enough time to dry before touching it again.

Daniel


Traingeekboy
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I was re-gluing what got split during cutting.
It's all ready now.

The bigger question is:
Do I take a nap now and then get to doing windows and doors? :mex:



Traingeekboy
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Quickie post...





Did the door detail. I am learning a lot.

The windows should come out really nice. These are a bit uneven and the middle sash is different on each end.

No ruler, just eyeballs.


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I am getting ahead of myself with the CRap building.
Since I don't buy anything rtr, the new bad habit is downloading train car plans for future stock.

I found this interesting baggage car diagram.
Sadly this plan shows no sizes for things.
Luckily the same artist drew several other cars and I was able to get a wheel axle center of 4.5' as a reference.
With that info I scaled the drawing onto my scale rule PDF and I have a plan ready to go for when I get done with my caboose.





Sure is fun building what looks cool, rather than what must be made to fit a prototype.


Traingeekboy
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Slowly getting more of this model done.

I could have gone whole hog and made the window sashes in two piece as they should be, but I am cheating.










Traingeekboy
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Ok here goes.





I am using Tyco chassis pieces and trucks and couplers. 
Never look underneath my models as you'll see all kinds of weird crap under there.





Doing Crap building is like doing a puzzle.
Everything needs to fit and sometimes to save hassle I don't exactly follow the plans.

One thing I did was to eye how many boards across the end piece would be.
It turned out that my scribbed wood was a perfect fit.

I also did the same board count on my side pieces and just winged the length, which is within inches of the real thing.





This brand of scribbed wood is brilliant because it is as thick as an individual board and saved me a lot of trouble matching things up on the corners.





As you can see the chassis is hidden underneath some wood planks which also raises the model a tiny bit.
I have not measured to see how it would compare to the real thing.





This odd picture is of my roof piece getting steamed over my stove top tea pot.





And here you see it after the steam bending.
It took about 30 seconds and was ten times easier than expected.


Traingeekboy
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I got it done. Or as far as I can get until I locate my pin vice and can add railings.
I also think I am at the limits of my modeling ability, yet it works for me. 

I posed the caboose with the other 3 pieces of stock I have now.

My Workbench is the dining tale, so these photos were taken on some white pieces of paper to help bounce light a bit.
I kept the Tyco caboose steps and I will be putting some pieces of wood tread on them. not prototype, but I like steps. 

























I posed the caboose with the rest of the fleet just to give an idea of how it fits in.
Everything in my fleet needs the last finishing touches, but it can run.
I may have to get out an oval and do some test runs.
I am out of trucks and wheels until the Tyco car I bought on ebay arrives.


Traingeekboy
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I can't seem to stop.

Using computer print outs is a lot like a puzzle.
It's worse if you are making models that you can't find reference photos for either.
And since I am using wood that is not scaled, but rather just some standard measurement,
it gets even worse trying to figure out what I need to do.





I'm pondering exactly how high the trim should be on the train car in relation to the end corner beams.
But damn if I'm not having the time of my life making these semi fantasy models from a couple bucks of wood.

:glad::glad::glad:


Si.
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" But damn if I'm not having the time of my life making these semi fantasy models from a couple bucks of wood "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Give me a 600-part $$$$$$ 'MiniArt' kit ...

... OR a pile of a couple o' Bucks $ $ o' wood ...

... & I'd take the whittling-wood any day of the week !  :pimp:



Somehow it seems closer to working in a 1:1 car shop ...  L:

... if that makes sense ?
I love the whole 'Blueprints & Setsquares' thaaang baby !  :old dude:



Your 'fleet' is lookin' pretty nice T.G.B.  :thumb:



Has the latest eBay 'victim' arrived yet ?  ;)

I love looking out for a nice 'new' bit of BASH fodder !!  :P



:moose:



Si.


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Si,

Thanks for the kind comments.
If I could Hi-5 you through the computer monitor I would.


Got my eye on a lot of things on that auction site.
I really want a 4-4-0.


The Florida line The Celestial Railway has a nice little 3 footer.
Notice how high it is on the guys chest.

http://www.taplines.net/jalw/jlw_2.jpg


I have never owned either a Mantua, or Pocher 4-4-0, so they may run like crap, but that is what I am searching for.
Yet it seems, even a trashed one is worth lots of money at auction.

...and then there is the Roundhouse HO scale 2 truck Shay,
which could easily be made into a larger scale version as a smaller loco.

All is pricey to me. I am known for waiting up to 5 years for a deal. :P


But really, the rolling stock is just too much fun.
With no layout, I can make whatever I want.

I am thinking of a Maine two footer caboose as the model after this.
But then again, there is a need for some flat cars, and a box car, and and and, ha ha.


The blue prints really make it easy. And it's so easy to scale them to my scale.
This current car build is pretty obscure though. I can't seem to find photos of it online for details.
So I will have to really just wing it.


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Excellent use of simple materials TGB. Nicely done.

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Howdy, the old Pocher (AHM/Rivarossi, etc.) HO 4-4-0's were neat lokies. They had the hunky old 3 pole motor in the tender with the driveshaft to the loco's drivers but then that's the way things were. I had several of them and a couple I installed Sagami "can motors" (again, old tech) and they ran very nicely. If I found one today, I would get in touch with Micro Loco Motion and buy a nice gearhead motor to swap. But there again, if you will be running r/c then the old 3 pole job will be tamed down somewhat. Electrical wheel/track pickups were the REAL problems with these locos anyway-the loco picked up with 2 drivers and the tender had 4 tiny wheels (2 axles) and that ain't for crap anyway...track power ain't for crap (MY OPINION).
I am not familiar with the Mantua loco so I won't comment except that it would probably be OK also.
The MDC/Roundhouse Shays were really neat and I built several of the HOn3's for my On20 line. Matter of fact, I have one that is now about 25 years old still running on my old Gila Tram On20 layout. Years ago, NWSL offered a gear replacement kit (nothing really wrong with stock but the kit had better quality gears) and once you got the fiddly driveline (sidewinder) gears figgered out, the lokies were great runners. One of these in HO would make a nice 55n3 engine. That would be my choice, but then I love Shays.

These are my experiences with the locos you mentioned. I hope you find one at a good price...I am sure they are out there.
Woodie

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" Si, Thanks for the kind comments.

If I could Hi-5 you through the computer monitor I would "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Cheers !  :thumb:



I think that the 'up-scaling' of HO victims to 1:55n3 scale, is generally going to work out OK.  L:

A bit like 'up-scaling' HO to On2 1/2  L:

Or 'up-scaling' On2 1/2 to 1:35n2  L:



I don't think 'Gigi The Goalie' quite had his eye on the ball, when it comes to 'up-scaling' HO to 1:35n2 though

Much more tricky, due to the much more MASSIVE leap in scales.  :shocked:



I think in many ways, you probably have MORE of an 'easy' choice of HO scale BASH victims in 1:55n3 ...

... than even the On2 1/2er has, simply due to the significantly smaller scale.

The difference between a few numbers of 1:55 and 1:48 doesn't 'theoretically' seem like much ...

... But IT IS !  ... and the difference between 1:87 and 1:35 scales is HUGE !  :hyp:



It's all very well people saying, oh yeah do whatever you want, there are no rules ...

... but not so good if one goes down that path & invests a lot of time in something that just looks WRONG.

I should know ... I'VE DONE IT !  :f:



The locos on your 'watch list' sound like interesting choices to me ...  :P

... & may well principally just need 're-cabbing', which you've already done with your switcher. 



VIVA LE BASH !  :mex:



:cool:



Si.

 

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Si

I was reading back, because you were the one who pointed me to the essentials in this whole scale thing.
Does it look right, or wrong?
So far the HO scale wheels look right. 


I had posted this previously:

"I did a reduce the wheel size to get dimension calc.
by dividing a standard 33" and 20" wheel by both scales.

33 / 87 = 0.37931034482759

20 / 55 = 0.36363636363636

So in HO scale the 33 inch wheel ends up being around 1/100th of an inch different in size.
I'm sure there will be those who look at my models and will have a complete OCD crisis.
Not to worry, Emotional Trauma Teams are on hand."


The whole point of that is that you made me notice wheel sizes.
So the 33 and the 20 are inches being divided by the two scales.

Again because you mentioned wheel size.
Thus a 33 inch wheel reduced to HO scale is the dimension shown,
but if you take 20 inches and divide by 1:55 scale you get the next dimension.

So If I use a standard 33" wheel it comes out to this size in HO  0.37931034482759
If I use a 20 inch wheel it comes out to this size in 1:55  0.36363636363636

Now you see that the wheels are close enough in size that I do not care.
I am not seeing a huge difference in size that will preclude me being able to have fun.

But if I were to do something like 1:35th scale I would need a much bigger wheel to model a 20" wheel.
My HO scale Crap Builds would not work for many narrow gauge models in 1:35.

I assume everyone doing 1:35 is using On30 wheels as they will come out just about right for that scale.
Yet, buying On30 to chop up is expensive.
I am a cheap ass model railroader.

What you said about the difference between 1:48 and 1:55 being a huge difference.
IT IS!
I measured some figures at the local store and they were about a 6'6" tall with my 1:55 ruler.
I do think a few cuts and I can modify some to be more like 5'8" tall.
I am not going to bother with figures yet, they're so expensive!
A set can cost 10-12 dollars!


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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:


I would make it a TOP PRIORITY ! of yours, to get a few 'decent' figures.  :old dude: :old dude: :old dude: :old dude: :old dude:



Without those on your bench as an absolute reference ...

... you are trying to build stuff without THE BEST tool/scale-rule in the book !  :us:

An automobile or horse & cart etc. etc. would not go amiss either.  :thumb:



I don't think it's making life the slightest bit easy, trying to re-cab locos or anything else, without figures.

I'd retire 'Gigi The Goalie' promptly, he could be a bit deceptive at 6' 6" anyway !

( cue someone coming in now & saying 'people come in all sorts of shapes & sizes' )  :y:



You basically need a 2-Yard Stick with arms & legs !!  :P



When I was a schoolboy, I saved up my 'milk money' & cut down on the smokes, till I had the $10 Bucks !!

There is such a thing as 'low budget modelling' ...

... but ZERO BUDGET modelling ?  :Crazy:



:mex:



Si.


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Si,
it's nearly zero budget for me so far. :glad::glad::glad:

I spent about 1.99 buying some new strip wood for the new build.
And there will be so much left over I have enough wood for a near endless supply of fun-ness.

Yeah, figures. In due time, I am thinking I will learn to carve my own.
Most figures are so damn ugly and poorly sculpted anyway, I actually think I can do better!

I have a friend who is a professional caster. I might be able to get him to cast mine for me too.

http://www.pfc-cinc.com/front_page.html


Now onto the build. Setting out some wood.





Just cutting things and compensating for the size of the strip wood compared to the drawing dimensions.
Some pieces are slightly larger, but I am too lazy to mill everything now.

Oh yeah, you mentioned zero budget.
Well, there is a local shop that has a bunch of old Tyco HO cars for a dollar each.
I can cut those suckers up to extract the bolsters and trucks and I am set for just about any build out there. :mex:

hee hee hee


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I hate check book modellers





I only accept CASH myself


:f:


Eddie


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Speaking of narrow gauge:

http://karakullake.blogspot.com/2017/10/1955-narrow-gauge-electric-police-train.html

I was poking around the web looking for a future car to build, that came up.


An interesting passenger car that although Austraiian, would not look out of place in my little collection:

https://68.media.tumblr.com/86faeec5ca2ab49602d930d0122cb08d/tumblr_ojpwjjz7Yk1tx25rao1_1280.jpg


But also the Slim Princess came up, when I found this tank car:

http://www.owensvalleyhistory.com/carson_n_colorado/sp_narrow_g112_t.jpg


So then of course I google Colorado and Carson:

http://www.owensvalleyhistory.com/carson_n_colorado/page50.html

With photos of an old flat roof combine, S.P. No 401. I thought it would be pretty cool as a model, but it turns out it's actually a rebuild.

You can find an old old photo of car 401 on this site, and all the ownership changes.

http://www.girr.org/girr/relics/spng/spng.html

Scroll down and this page is full of odd things, a sprung frog and a gas mechanical critter.


So now, I am thinking an old car like 401 is an ideal model for a shorter type passenger car from the 1880's era.

Need to find a plan for it though!


Meanwhile, this is kind of an interesting source for loco ideas.

Porter made some cool things that could easily be mocked up with the mechs. one can find used.

http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/porter07.Html


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Traingeekboy wrote: Meanwhile, this is kind of an interesting source for loco ideas.
Porter made some cool things that could easily be mocked up with the mechs. one can find used.

http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/porter07.Html


You have found some interesting things!

Oh, I really like that 0-6-0 number 14.


Traingeekboy
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Kitbash0n30 wrote: Traingeekboy wrote: Meanwhile, this is kind of an interesting source for loco ideas.
Porter made some cool things that could easily be mocked up with the mechs. one can find used.

http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/porter07.Html


You have found some interesting things!

Oh, I really like that 0-6-0 number 14.


Yeah, I was looking at all of those and going... hmmm... I could use an old AHM, a Bachmann, or a Tyco...


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You might also look up Glover Locomotive Works, they made some great little critters that would get yer blood stirrin'...

Woodie

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Photos and plans for SP 401 can be found in the book
"Slim Gauge Cars" by RMC, both with and without the monitor roof.

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" Glover Locomotive Works ... made some great little critters that would get yer blood stirrin'... "






VERY nice book T.G.B.

I think Woodies copy is well thumbed !  :thumb:



:pimp:



Si.


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Oh man. I need to go to the library and see if they have it.

Who knows maybe they even have digital copies, which-ehem screen grab... oh look, a blue print!

:P

Thanks Woodie and Si.

And thanks on the slim gauge cars book info Ken.


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Moar buildering afoot.

Using my glue it to the print out method is pretty good so far.
It is revealing that one panel may be a bit crooked on the bottom.





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Was on another forum and a guy was using Gorilla glue for water.





Note to self: I am going to have to try this.


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Another thing that works for water is MODGE-PODGE from the craft stores.
It takes a bit to harden & cure but makes some nice water for sure.
An expensive (not very) alternative is 20 minute "finish epoxy" for model aircraft.
This stuff is safe for foam, etc. and hardens like...epoxy.
Woodie


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Thanks for the tips Woodie!

Traingeekboy
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Well, nothing real to report except I solved my figure problem.

I realized that everything at Shapeways exists as a 3D model that is then used to make a 3D printed object.

SO if I contact figure makers on Shapeways, one of them may be willing to scale the model to 1/55 for me, and I can buy some real figures.

This set looks pretty good to me as a starter:   Figure Set


Traingeekboy
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Wow, if I do this with my locos.

They could be spewing out blueberry passion fruit smoke :P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YUIjLfWyG0



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I broke down and bought a detail part for my "Red Devil" loco.





Just need to wait till the weather gets warmer to do any outdoor spray painting.

And I am also thinking of using an old Tyco diesel horn on the cab.


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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Oh yes ! ... Outdoor spray-painting & cold-weather doesn't go great together.  :td:



One dodge I have found to be almost acceptable ...

... is to have a warm-can of paint  (good anyway, for finer droplets)  & hit it QUICK ...  :shocked:

... & then move indoors to dry.



Some kind of, even improvised, spray-booth is a good move of course.  L:

I really need to find myself a BIG cardboard-box & get BODGING on that one here.



DETAIL PARTS ! ... HOLY EXPENSE ! $$$ ... Don't skimp on the GOLD PAINT !  :pimp:



:mex:



Si.


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I will wait for warm weather for spray.

And I really should have made my own bell.

Traingeekboy
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A follow up on the people for the layout issue -- The scale Figures problem is solved.


This may be the first set of 1/55 scale figures for American modelers.
I feel sort of proud to be a tiny lever in the machine to promote 1/55 scale modeling.

I contacted a man on Shapeways who does figures for other scales.
He has agreed to make me some 1/55 scale copies of these three figures:


https://www.shapeways.com/product/FD8Z79HEM/1-48-scale-figures-1-seated-pippin-2-standing-fred?optionId=59147843&li=user-profile


Having looked at many O and S scale figures as options for modification,
I can say these are so much more detailed and natural looking,
that they will make a great first set to go with my models.


Traingeekboy
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hmmm...

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/12842/rec/21

Traingeekboy
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Aaaannnd I have some figures ordered to my spec.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/HUF4YRHWM/1-55-scale-figure-pak6?optionId=91138906

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The 3D figures arrived.

So here are some examples of how my models look with people.
Not sure if I like this scale, or would prefer a 2' 1/35 look now.

The Red Devil is less of a critter and more of a beast next to these people.
I think that when I finally get an HO scale steamer to convert, that that loco will be more suited to this scale.
The HO scale loco I starter with for the Red Devil was actually closer to O scale in all regards. 

I will probably just stick with this for a little while.





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Another example.





Traingeekboy
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The caboose is really the scale model.

I used a scale rule to measure it, and fudged just a little bit to make it easier to put together.





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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I'm glad to see that your 6'6" giant, Gigi the goalie, is retired at last ! ...  :bg:

... I hope his 2D cardboard spirit, is being re-cycled into a football program as we speak !!  ;)



I love the new ghostly looking 'Bladerunner' ? style placky-print-peoples.  :thumb:



With all this hi-tech $4!7 these days ...
... even  oDdBaLL  1:55n3 size folk, are just a couple of computational CLICKS away from becoming plastic reality !  :brill:





The Gilpin caboose & 'Pete Plastic' look absolutely SPOT ON ! to me.  :thumb:



The figure may look a tad too big to some people ...

... But that small 2' gauge caboose door is 6' high, by OFFICIALLY accurate 'Colorado & Southern' yard-sticks.  :P



At 6' straight, I would probably bang my head on the door frame ...  :f:

... & if I had a 10-Gal. hat on, I'd have to duck for sure.  :cb:



The model & Pete Plastic are lookin' GREAT !  :cool:

Gotta be worth at least 5 10-Gal. hat dudes !!!!!  ;)



:cb: :cb: :cb: :cb: :cb:



Si.


Traingeekboy
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Si. wrote: Hi T.G.B.  :wave:


I'm glad to see that your 6'6" giant, Gigi the goalie, is retired at last ! ...  :bg:

... I hope his 2D cardboard spirit, is being re-cycled into a football program as we speak !!  ;)



Well, I did find this here figure --





I think I can still find a way to work Gigi into the mix. :glad::glad::glad:


Traingeekboy
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I keep planning a layout.

While most layouts are very flat and the mountains do not reach very high,
it seems like a narrow gauge layout should go floor to ceiling,
if one wants to create the look of places like Gregory Gulch.

Zoom the image and you'll see all the little wood walkways, steps, and stone retaining walls.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll21/id/11912/rec/203


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Somewhere in the distant past, maybe Model Railroader,
there was at least some talk about scenery extending all the way to the floor.

Now you gotta be careful that you don't make the layout unreachable or fall through it.

I want to say John Allen, and maybe a few others, went in for dramatic scenery.


Traingeekboy
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It's very tempting.
I have a little 12 x7 shed that is to be my layout room.

I doubt I will take over everything, but some vertical scenery is tempting.
Maybe not floor to ceiling, but mountains I can't look over?  hmmm...

In the meantime, work is taking up too much of my time.
I can't even get any train cars finished right now.


Traingeekboy
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People don't associate Colorado with logging.
Yet, everything was built from wood in the 1990's.

I was thinking that after I get done with my current planned car builds, I'd want some log cars.

I found 1 single photo of a log train.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/10885/rec/176


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I recall reading about several logging lines connected to the D&RGW. 

I think they were in the Durango/Chama area. 

Probably others also. 


http://www.drgw.net/info/PagosaBranch

But, yeah, we seem to think of narrow gauge railroading in Colorado focused mostly around mining.


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I would think that area would be like many locations in Australia,
even though they are mining areas, timber was required in large amounts,
to build the mines, feed the boilers for the machinery and build the towns.

Many mining areas had tramways going in all directions for many miles,
to get timber as it became scarce as the mining towns grew.

...........Peter.


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The Bodie and Benton Railway

http://www.pacificng.com/template.php?page=roads/ca/bb/index.htm)

in California was built to haul lumber to Bodie.
 

It even had hopes of going to Benton on the Carson & Colorado/SPNG.


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Yes, John Allen's G&D had floor to ceiling canyons and mountains.
His layout was built in an excavated "basement" under his home,
and there were several others who built scenes the same way.
Take the advise about being able to reach all the track...
whatever can get screwed up-WILL get screwed up.
Allen used "dragger" cars in every train, boxcars with slabs of masonite under them,
which seemed to keep the track clean.
I have built these before and while they worked,
the friction of dragging such a thing caused trains to be rather short!
Have fun and run a train.
Woodie


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For info about the Bodie & Benton,

better use this link



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I found references to several saw mills.
Colorado is drier than other logging places.  The use of rivers to move logs is not common.
What I saw were some interesting horse drawn rail car type arrangements,
along with the use of wagons to haul logs to the rail line.

The Pagosa mill had it's arrival area for uncut logs on a slope,
with tracks running parallel to the slope.
Trains could arrive and dump logs,
then I assume they would get rolled to the mill for cutting.

I even saw an interesting wood gantry crane for switching lumber loads,
between 3' and standard gauge in Alamosa yard.
(An interesting future model project.)

I found a lot of images and should have book marked all of them.
There is just so much to find on the DPL site.

I will have to see if Pagosa Springs library, and or historical society has some images.

For now, I have this reference image for making some interesting log cars.


Attachment: logger.png (Downloaded 44 times)

Traingeekboy
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I get on a mission and I go find things...

http://gawiz.com/LogCar.htm



The Pagosa Sun has several articles with images.

http://www.pagosasun.com/an-early-description-of-pagosas-hot-springs/

http://www.pagosasun.com/coming-of-the-railroad-to-pagosa-springs/

http://www.pagosasun.com/slim-pickings-for-hotels-in-early-day-pagosa/



I had to blow this one up a bit to show more detail. You can use ctrl +/- or apple key +/-





Traingeekboy
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Been working a lot on the real job.

I did cut some strip wood today, from actual pieces of small branches, for an upcoming project.


In the meantime, I will post a link here for a future project.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/81331/rec/1

Another angle on the crane for details.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/ref/collection/p15330coll22/id/79820/rec/26


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Hi T.G.B.  :wave:


An interesting looking crane ...  :old dude:

... & very adaptable for the space challenged modeller ...

( or not, if you happen to have a 12' x 7' shed up your sleeve ! )  ;)

... in that it could easily be scaled with a bit less height & width.


Seems to be a very SOLID looking, mostly wooden design ...  :shocked:

... with a few bits of metalwork here & there to hold it together ...

... plus I guess maybe 'regular' light rail, for the carriage to run on.  L:


It would make a great model & could go just about anywhere.  :thumb:



:mex:



Si.


Traingeekboy
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Thanks Si,

This discussion is sort of a look what I did,

and a Gee, I wanna do one of those and one of those...


So, I am just posting interesting reference images like the crane here.

I think the crane could be scaled, mod'ed, whatever.

I really like the ladders on it, that kind of screams older tech to me.


I bet all the other things like lamps were just upgrades to something really old.


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" This discussion is sort of a look what I did,
and a Gee, I wanna do one of those and one of those...
So, I am just posting interesting reference images like the crane here "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



Yes indeed & it is always GREAT to see what is catching peoples interest.  :thumb:



That crane photo ...

... could soon become a rough drawing ...

... then a pile of stripwood ...

... then, adding GLUE, the 'best part of' a CRANE !  :bg:



I say 'best part of' ...

... cos my theory is, throw together the 'meat & potatoes' as quick as possible ...  :slow:

... then worry about all the little details later.



You can probably see that 'philosophy' at work over at Mysterious Moose Mountain !  :moose:



Not everyone has 24/7 to build models & that can sometimes be a bit depressing.  :f:



So rather than spending an eternity adding a zillion teeny-weeny little details ...  :time:

... my theory has been ...

... once you've got the 'meat & potatoes' ...

... it's OK to start building another model !  :)



Some might say, that means you have a load of 'unfinished models'.  L:

Others might say, that means you have a load of 'models under-construction' !  :P

A case of the glass being 1/2 empty ... or the glass being 1/2 FULL !  ;)



If I'd have 'hung around' too much with super-details & suchlike, I'd have about 2 models by now !

But I haven't done that, so I have about 2 DOZEN (or more !) models, without super-details.  :P


You can see which way I'd go.  :old dude:

Largely cos I aint got 24/7 to spend on model making.


In 'My Dictionary' an 'unfinished model' ...  :old dude:

... is one which you find in a box covered in cobwebs, 5 years later, hardly remembering that you even started it.  ???



A friend of mine is giving me a bit of FLAK for that at the moment !

( As his psychiatrist :brill: I diagnosed him as 'a glass 1/2 empty guy' years ago )  ;)



So ...

... bang out a quick drawing & start collecting stripwood for that  C :cool: :cool: L  crane.



:)



Si.


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I agree Si.

Just make the frame and call it good!

If I take off my glasses my model work is amazing at arms length.

Traingeekboy
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I've been wanting a steam engine for a while.


At first I looked at modifying an old HO 4-4-0.
Then I spotted the Poher HO 2-4-0.
Yet those models both sell for quite a bit on ebay.

Having found an old image of a Porter 0-6-0 with a tender,
I am thinking I will get an old 0-6-0 tank engine,
and then replace the boiler and build a cab.


Today I actually got something fairly cheap on ebay,
mind you shipping is murder these days.

I got an old Tyco boiler, because I want the domes and lamp off of it.
People try to sell single domes from those at about 6 Bucks each,
so at 5 Dollars I got 2 domes and a lamp for my future loco project.





Traingeekboy
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Now, if I could just build things as beautiful as Daniel's work is:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/158027525@N08/albums/72157677210979497




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That's a great Loki build and the rest of the train.

Liking 1:55n3 more and more.




Traingeekboy
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If you look around, there's a protoype for anything.

Having spent part of my childhood in the midwest, I really wanted a grain elevator on my narrow gauge railway.

Years ago I drove through the San louis valley and of course there are a lot of old grain elevators there, as it is a agricultural area.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/8656/rec/44

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Just keep dropping concept images here.

A small store that could be scaled for the layout.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll21/id/11974/rec/41

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more San louis Valley elevator ideas.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll21/id/10658/rec/81

South to tres piedras, west to chama. scan right and you can see some structure ideas.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/12541/rec/7

I have a thing for the older locos.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/71927/rec/2

Traingeekboy
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I'll just keep throwing down the odd images.

This one has a couple things that catch my eye.

Most interesting is the signage that juts out onto the street.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/1948/rec/42

Traingeekboy
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The railway has taken delivery of cut lumber for a static model.


More when the crew decides to bolt this crapbuilt model together.





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Yup, it's crap all righty! :glad:

But it's my crap and I buildered it myself. :cb:





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I should be working. My company has the hugest deadline.
But I also need some relaxation time and a feeling of ease.

So about that yard crane in Alamosa...


A full sized version wouldn't fit on my imaginary railway,
but a smaller one to help move loads is still needed.

I didn't have all the lumber widths I needed,
so I laminated some pieces to get bigger beams.

I could have gone to the store and gotten more lumber,
but I had fun playing with using what I've got on hand.


These trestles are pretty sloppy.
If I make a bridge I will assemble with a plan and cut more accurately.
But for now I have something to mess around with.

Need to get creative in making my own detail parts next.
Lots of wheels and cables and a hook.





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"I done builded you a schapel."

Lilies of the Field (1963)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH1d9i6-9L8&t=146s



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Just 1 tip,

paint (or stain) the wood first,

before you are gluing it.


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Thank you.

I will remember that.


:bang: :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:



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I have to remember to put a cat inside my number light board.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/70157/rec/552



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Plonk!

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/86/80/45/868045b6182559f0d6be8e1e8ba15267--steam-locomotive-wheels.jpg

Traingeekboy
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I haven't had a lot of actual modeling time as of late.
I snuck in a little time to paint the caboose.

And then another day I painted some printer paper black.
I cut it up another day and thought more about what I was gonna do.

Today I decided to just slap the paper on and see if I could make,
a decent facsimile of a tar paper roof for my little Gilpin Waycar.

I still need to attach the end folds,
but it's closer to being finished now.

I think the only model I have actually finished so far was my gondola,
so I have bits and pieces to be done on most everything.















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Something something

".. make sure to finish everything you've started before beginning a new project! "

OK, so - exhibit  L:  the practice steam loco project.


I purchased a Play Art 0-4-0 for 8 dollars shipping included on ebay,
and it is going to become a small old style loco with a tender.

I was just exchanging comments on loco design with David L. on here,
and something about what he said, made me realize that in this scale
a Tyco Tank Car is an ideal source for a steam engine boiler;
gonna need to buy one of those.

I took a couple shots of the loco with my tank car,
the old Mantua boiler for details, and a figure for scale.

Most of the loco body is going to get scratch built.
I want to use the old style stack instead of the more straight one,
along with the brass domes.

The cab will have to be scratch built out of wood.

The tender will be a cut down old one from a 4-4-0.

I have to admit,
I'm not really pleased with the gap between drivers on the Play Art,
but I will learn to deal with it.





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Hey, that looks like a really fun project!

Can you make the top shell fit the wheel spacing by doing a vertical cut and stretching it?
Just a thought.

Can you take a photo of the engine with the body off the chassis?  

Regards, Dave L.



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David Laughery wrote: Hey, that looks like a really fun project!

Can you make the top shell fit the wheel spacing by doing a vertical cut and stretching it?
Just a thought.

Can you take a photo of the engine with the body off the chassis?  


I suppose I could cut off those wheel fenders and just use that boiler.


I actually have some old Porter loco works images and they show different boiler types.
I am sort of doing that style loco.

http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/porter07.Html

The 2-8-0 looks like something that would look good on your layout.  ;)



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If you have some time on your hands, I was just poking around the web,

and found this literary account of a railroad career by an engineer.

http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/jjtoc.Html



David Laughery
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That looks like an interesting read, and I thank you for the lead.

I'm sorry the author won't get any compensation from my purchasing a copy of the book.

(But I'll check Amazon, anyway)

Thanks, again for the link.

Regards, Dave L.



Traingeekboy
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Hee hee hee

I think we can safely assume he passed away a long time ago.


https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=30167911030&searchurl=sortby%3D17%26tn%3DFifty%2BYears%2Bon%2Bthe%2BRail&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title1


There are companies that sell out of copyright books as reprints.
They don't pay any royalties to anyone.
They just look for things to sell as Print on Demand product.

I purchased a copy of C.A.L. Totten's American Game of War that way.
The book I got had been OCR'ed and the text was barely legible.
I am somewhat wary of reprints.



David Laughery
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Amazon didn't have a copy.

Dave L.




Traingeekboy
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Had some time to kill,
so began painting my figures.

Sadly, I took one in my pocket to go compare to plastic animals at a store,
and managed to lose it.

Gonna have to order more of these.

And it's been so long since I used Humbrol paint,
that I forgot how long they take to cure.

They will need more touch up.
It was fun working on them though.

Once I get everything done, I will add some pin washes,
to darken the shadows on the clothes and make the faces less pink.





Traingeekboy
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I see some of you guys on here and it seems like you can produce so much in so little time.

I am a really slow modeler.
I end up spending time thinking about HOW I'm going to solve the problem of doing whatever.

Today I snuck in a little time with ye Olde disiesel and ended up doing everything differently than planned.

But I can at least say that "The Lobster" as the crews have dubbed it, is coming along nicely.


:glad:





pipopak
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Don't feel bad about being a not very fast modeler.

I have LOTS of unfinished stuff clogging shelf and workbench space....
and I am pretty sure that I have good company!

Jose.



Traingeekboy
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Sometimes I just gather links for the future layout here.

Natalie Porter, posted this on a facebook group,
to show how she does stairs for her buildings.

This is so simple it's just genius.
She just makes a jig out of foam core.





Larry G
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A messy work bench? been there, doing that now.

The stair idea is great, I can make use of that.

Larry G


oztrainz
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Hi TGB,

You'e not too far off the mark with your diseasel -

Have a look at this late 1920's loco built by Fowler in the UK.





Traingeekboy
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oztrainz wrote: Hi TGB,

You'e not too far off the mark with your diseasel -

Have a look at this late 1920's loco built by Fowler in the UK.


Sometimes it's almost as if all you gotta do is build your model,
and then an actual loco will appear in some photo collection to that matches it.

hee hee hee


I found this video which shows what we normally don't show on our layouts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7l03v0LHbc&fbclid=IwAR1mZL59qjbFmy1fcTyfC1lzNECdofD3ILyIQNqb_FxQaRYJl3R8uC9zEAU


oztrainz
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Hi TGB,

Dunno about that.

Go too far beyond this sign then the lights go out.





But yeah, its not a "normal" layout  ;) :P


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Rumour has it ...
... that the other end of that tunnel ^^ comes up in WALES !  :old dude:


:shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:


If they were a bit short of coal in the valleys that day ...  :f:

... they'd just push a few car loads through from Down Under.  :)



If they came up a bit short down in Aus. one day ...  :f:

... the Welsh would return the empties, filled up with coal again.  :cool:


;)


- - - - - - -


The deseisel looks  C :cool: :cool: L ... 

... I'm not convinced about the engineers matching corporate-colour shirts though.  :shocked:


???


Perhaps a Buck $1 on a blue can of  'Levis'(TM)  colour paint might come in handy ?  L:



:mex:



Si.


Traingeekboy
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Si, I have thought about changing the colors,
but that would require buying more paint!

------

Oztrainz, In my part of the world, a colliery is a kind of shepherd dog.  ;)
As in that a really nice Border Colliery you have there. 

-------

I've been pondering a layout for some time.

When I was a kid, my first N scale layout,
(this is after the usual ovals of HO scale on the floor kind of layouts)
was basically this layout here:





I figure I will just do a basic starter in a space of about 34 inches x 44 inches,
and then squeeze in as much hand crafted, kit bashed and scratch built crap as I can.

And then if for some reason I do something completely wrong on it,
I can always just throw it in the trash, like so many other layouts I've made.


Michael M
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Starting small is a great way of having something up and running in a short time. 
It gives you a chance to do some experimenting. 

Even John Allen's G&D started small.


I would suggest adding a couple of switches for future expansion. 
The loop will always be handy for testing out equipment.


W C Greene
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As I remember, Mr. Allen's first layout was a 4 by 6 footer,
and he incorporated it into the G & D.
Something to think about...

Woodie



Traingeekboy
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W C Greene wrote: As I remember, Mr. Allen's first layout was a 4 by 6 footer,
and he incorporated it into the G & D.
Something to think about...


Most of the great layout builders started small.

I have always had the conflict,
of whether to build a toy train set, or a layout.

Now that I am fully making a home made layout,
I can't imagine even buying pre-made telegraph poles,
much less anything else.

It's gonna take time,
before even this tiny layout gets sorta finished.

Got a huge list of To Do's already,
more rolling stock - a steam loco - a grain elevator -
a gold mine - a engine house - a train station - etc.


Michael M
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That's what makes this hobby so much fun...

there's always something to do!



W C Greene
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Make as much as you can yourself.
Then you will have stuff that nobody else has and the fun of making it all with your own hands.
Of course there are some things that might need to be bought, but that's the hobby.
Have fun.

WCG


David Laughery
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Over the years my only "layout" was an oval,

and I admit to spending hours running,

I mean operating  :y:  my trains on that oval.


A lot of fun.

Regards, Dave L.



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