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Visualizing A 1:55n3 Gas Switcher With Digital Graphics
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 Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2019 03:30 am
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Si.
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" Back to wheels...

I did a reduce the wheel size to get dimension calc.
by dividing a standard 33" wheel by both scales.

33 / 87
= 0.37931034482759

20 / 55
= 0.36363636363636

So in HO scale the 33 inch wheel ends up being around 1/100th of an inch different in size.
I'm sure there will be those who look at my models and will have a complete OCD crisis.

Not to worry, Emotional Trauma Teams are on hand "



Hi T.G.B.  :wave:



I'm pleased to hear that the " OCD crisis " ... " Emotional Trauma Teams are on hand " ...

... cos with your maths, you are gonna need them ! 

I'm not sure I can work out what those 2 calcs. ^^ are trying to establish ? ...

... no matter how long I look at them ? ?



Just to say something about my 1/100ths of a mm figures I posted on the wheels ...

... quite obviously, that level of 'resolution', for want of a better word, is what the pocket-calculator spits out !

Or rather, it isn't, because I've knocked off everything bellow 2 decimal places !

Should I 'knock off' the remaining 2 decimal-places as well, Government-statistics styleee ? 



Speaking about what I have here & see every day, wheel wise ...

... the difference between my 'standard' Bachman/Hornby wheel of 12.6 (1/2") ...

... & the next size up, of 14.1mm diameter ...

... its extra +/- 1.5mm dia. does not in ones mind, seem like much of a difference ...

... BUT in 'reality', not the world of 'The Matrix', the actual 'appearance' of those 2 different wheels is MASSIVE !!



Having a range of wheels in ones 'palette' has become an ESSENTIAL here at  M.M.M.M.M.& M.Co. ...

... when it comes to giving my various car build models the desired unique & 'differing look', according to size ...

... & making sure that couplers are mountable at ones chosen height.



For example, a smaller 4-wheeler mine-car, is on the LOW side of the 'norm' of 1/2" diameter wheels ...

... & has come to get fitted with, through trial & error & experience, the smallest eg. HO freight-truck wheels.

The 'median' wheels & trucks though for 1:35n2, are still essentially the regular 'Bachmann' On30 size of 1/2" ...

... or 'Hornby' 12.6mm same-size Brit. goods-wagon wheels.

These look 'right' from 10ft away !



So far I have only used the larger 14.1mm wheels on 2 builds ...

... which were the trial underframe for one of my cranes ...

... & a double-ended railcar, under development.



'Bachmann' On30 side-dump cars look very nice in 1:35n2 ...

... they come as standard, with what are basically HO smaller size wheels.

The 'contrast' between these, the median of 1/2", & the larger 14.1mm wheels, is nice to see together ...

... it WORKS !



I only learned this by looking & experience though, NOT by tapping away at my pocket-calculator !



The references in my Thread BTW, to using & modding various HO trucks ...

... are ALL with reference to 'Tri-ang' big & chunky HO diecast trucks from the swingin' '60s !

These are WAY WAY WAY bigger in overall appearance, to say Athearn/Kadee/Walthers 'normal' HO trucks.

A possible comparison might be between 'Lionel' & regular 1:48 scaled models.



The 'oversized' diecast HO trucks I mod. & use a lot of, are on the same footing size wise, to 'Bachmann' On30 trucks.

Much bigger in overall appearance than 'regular' HO ones.



In all cases, it took having the 'real thing' in front of me, on the bench, to properly appraise their different qualities.

Scale-rules, drawings & pocket-calculators tell one nothing of these things.

BUT getting ones head around the 'scale maths' on 'the basics' of trucks & couplers, is obviously essential.



Start with something 'average' as the 'median' ...

... & then see whether you wish to go bigger, or smaller from there.



Or don't bother about any of this & just use any old wheels & trucks you have & see what happens.

Be prepared to run into overhang, operational difficulties, appearance & coupler-height problems though ...

... if things such as this, are just an afterthought to making eg. a car-build ...

... & then whacking whatever you have to hand under it.



I use my eyes, not a scale-rule, pocket-calculator or 'dogma' to decide these things.

The way it should be in my opinion.

I love it when a plan comes together !

 

:moose:



Si.




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 Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2019 08:14 am
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Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Great post, Si.

Those coupler photos have given me a good lesson.
Thank you.

Daniel




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Extract from "THE FOUR STEPS METHOD" by Ching Pang Tsè:
1) Calm down.
2) Calm down.
3) Calm down.
4) First calm down.
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 Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2019 09:11 am
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pipopak
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No matter how close to the nth inch/mm you try to go, somebody WILL find something to bitch about.

So just do whatever looks right to you.

Jose.






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Junk is something you throw away three weeks before you need it.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 12:00 am
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Traingeekboy
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Finally getting to the stage of using my print outs of the scaled plan to cut the walls and windows.















A bright light helps too.





The plan also helps with window placement if you fold it.
I have misplaced my caliper, so this is my only option for now.





And of course, I had forgotten how a blade can actually work like a rail splitter and break your wood apart.
I am going to have to glue the walls to paper before assembly.




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Did I ever mention that I like trains?
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 Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 08:54 am
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Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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:2t::2t::2t:

Daniel



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Extract from "THE FOUR STEPS METHOD" by Ching Pang Tsè:
1) Calm down.
2) Calm down.
3) Calm down.
4) First calm down.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 02:37 pm
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Steven B
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I hate it when I split a side like that. :sad: 

Paper is a good recovery though. 

Keep on!





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Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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 Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 04:09 pm
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pipopak
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Use REAL sharp blades and light pressure.

Let the blade work it's way without forcing it.

Jose.





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Junk is something you throw away three weeks before you need it.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 09:01 pm
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Traingeekboy
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Ok, that is a useful tip: sharp blades/light pressure.

Old Hamhock Hands is of course having to re-glue.







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 Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 11:13 am
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Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Gluing it is not a problem, TGB.
All you need is a straight ruler of any kind, and glue.

You set the underside of the big piece against the ruler,
and then a bit of glue in the needed area of the smaller piece,
and then you put it at a few millimeters from the bigger piece, against the ruler.
 
Then you slide it along the ruler's edge until it is against the other part.
A piece of nylon covering both and some not exaggerated weight ensures they will join without distortion.

The most difficult part -at least for me- is giving it enough time to dry before touching it again.

Daniel




____________________
Extract from "THE FOUR STEPS METHOD" by Ching Pang Tsè:
1) Calm down.
2) Calm down.
3) Calm down.
4) First calm down.
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 Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 07:18 pm
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Traingeekboy
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I was re-gluing what got split during cutting.
It's all ready now.

The bigger question is:
Do I take a nap now and then get to doing windows and doors? :mex:





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