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Mack Saunders
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OK, so this is the beginning of something ... not sure just yet what it will be. The initials stand for the Best Guess and Fudjit line. It will be On30 ... it will be point to point ... it will be small (2 feet by 4 feet at the moment).

The first part of the project is a repair shed. Engines/cars/speeders/washing machines ... errr maybe not the washing machines!

I want to do a traveling, overhead crane of some sort that hopefully will work. I am trying to find some pics of these types of cranes.

The building at this point will be about30/ 40 feet tall, so there is room for the crane to lift a car or engine off of the trucks. I would like the rails to be sunk into a cement like floor if I can figure out how to do "cement".

The crane will straddle two lines of track and there will be racks for spare axle and wheel sets as well as a truck or two laying around.

There are no solid plans at this point and it will be very much a product of a very confused mind.

Oh ya, I'm 70 something, and haven't played with model trains since I was 10, so there have been a few changes I guess.

I will be asking a ton of questions as I find out what they are.

As it is at the moment.

Cheers

Tom

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Mack Saunders
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I forgot ... there is a beginning of a desk for someone to put plans on (what's a plan?) so they know what size to make the shed.

Tom

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Si.
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" Oh ya, I'm 70 something, and haven't played with model trains since I was 10, so there have been a few changes I guess."



Hi Tom :wave:



There HAVE been a few changes.

My Dad told me they were all clockwork when he was 10. :time:

Now they're all stuffed full of quartz & micro-chips !

Progress !!

( so THEY keep telling me ) :f:



Oh well, still look the same from the outside.

Wheels, chimneys, cabs, couplers ...

... so I guess nothing REALLY changes ?? ???



Sounds like the beginnings of an adventure.

The subject seems to have all the right stuff. :cool:

Have you seen the travelling-crane in 'The Yard' video ?


We have lots of friendly & experienced On30ers here at Freerails. :old dude:

Most of them don't even BITE ! ;)

They know the answers. :)



:moose:



Si.



Mack Saunders
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Hi Si,

No I haven't seen the video "The Yard". Where would I find it?

Tom

Si.
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Hi Tom :wave:



It is an exhibition project that Freerails Member 'Simon H' & some friends are doing.

Simon has a Thread in the On30 Forum called 'North Kent Light Railway' as well.



He Posted this Link to a video of their ongoing work.

There is a wonderful R.C. travelling-crane & R.C. lorry in 'The Yard' video. :)

The R.C. work on both, I believe was done by Freerails Member 'Giles'.



'The Yard' Video With Radio Controlled Travelling Crane



Hypnotic ! :shocked:



:brill:



Si.

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Hi Tom,
for your workshop crane, have a look at Cross Kitter's post at about 2/3 the way down at http://gn15.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3963&start=100 This is for a fixed A-frame gantry type crane that can't be long travelled. There were a lot of thess used for trans-shipping goods in goods yards out here. If someone can get it to work in N-scale then surely it must be easier in O??

I used light-weight Spackle for the concrete warehouse floor. It gives a slightly sandy texture when it goes off. Build the floor up to just below railheight. For inside the rails, use a smaller profile rail and butt it up against the rail fixings inside the main rails. The gap between these 2 different rails gives you flangeways and a slightly depressed area between the rails. The smaller rails act as supports when you screed in the Spackle between the main rails.

If you need more information, please ask. We're here to help where we can,

Mack Saunders
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Thank You Si, that is fascinating!

Tom

Mack Saunders
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Thanks for the link John ... I hadn't thought about doing it that way.

Thanks also for the Spackle tip. I had thought about that but somehow got the idea that it would crack as it dried. I will play and see what happens.

Cheers

Tom

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Tom,
Please post photos of your projects.  We just love photos here.
Nice group of helpful people here.  Welcome.

Si.
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Hi again Tom :wave:



Pleased you liked the video !

It is rather  C :cool: :cool: L  isn't it !!



These might be of interest to you perhaps. L:

There's a bit more info. about these in a 'Technical' Forum Thread here on Freerails. :brill:











I don't know exactly what you want to do, but these are GREAT for all sorts of stuff. :)

Small locos, cranes, R.C. etc.



They are generically to be found on eBay under the term 'N20 Motors'. :old dude:

Several Voltages are available, 6V & 12V I think.

Also LOTS of different RPMs, from about 30-RPM to about 300-RPM I seem to remember.



Cheap as chips as well. :P

The 'straight' ones are about $2 Bucks inc. P&P, the 'inversion' motors about $4 Bucks.



:pimp:



Si.

Steven B
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Hey Mack, glad that you are posting.
Concrete... In the past I have made forms and a very wet plaster and poured it, just like the real thing.  Then you can sand and scribe expansion joints etc.  It takes stain really well.
I have had joint compound shrink and leave cracks, which isn't too bad, just fill and sand, I've never had plaster do that though.  Nothing like masonry products to reproduce masonry products!  
Looking forward to seeing progress.  :rah:

Mack Saunders
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Morning Si ... You have led me down another rabbit hole then. I'm hoping there's a couple of pints of York Breweries's Centurian Ale at the bottom ... or perhaps a jar or two of Old Peculiar!
As it happens, I have played with most things r/c for over 30 years and I have a box or two of spare parts, including these wee beauties ...


They are from the winch for an r/c crawler truck. The complete set up on the right has the warranted lifting capacity of 3 1/2 lbs, so plenty for what I want. I have 4 altogether, with a couple of spare gearboxes as well.
A question for you ... I have looked at at lot of your stuff on the Noose line ... are you basically doing 1/35 size stuff on ho rail? I am finding that 1/48 around here is like finding chicken lips. However, there is no end of 1/35 stuff, and if I was to change, now would be the time.
Besides, I am totally enthralled with the r/c stuff, so any layout I do now will have very little to do with trains, and more to do with animated dioramas.
Cheers
Tom

Mack Saunders
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Thanks Steven B.  I will see if I can find some plaster at the local Home Depot.
Mack

Last edited on Tue Mar 6th, 2018 04:51 pm by Mack Saunders

Mack Saunders
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I am experimenting with some 3d printed stuff. This is a tank that I printed in three parts and then glued together with gel ca. I have put a couple of coats of filler and done some sanding. It isn't where I want it yet, but with a bit more work and the addition of a couple more parts, and I think it will work for something found in a gypo logging camp from the 40's.

Mack

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Si.
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" A question for you ...
I have looked at at lot of your stuff on the Moose line ...
are you basically doing 1/35 size stuff on ho rail ?

I am finding that 1/48 around here is like finding chicken lips.
However, there is no end of 1/35 stuff, and if I was to change, now would be the time.

Besides, I am totally enthralled with the r/c stuff,
so any layout I do now will have very little to do with trains,
and more to do with animated dioramas."



Hi Tom :wave:



You may well have answered your own question ! :)

Yes, I am modeling 1:35n2, 2' narrow-gauge on 16.5mm track.



Compared to any other scale ...

... the amount of kits, figures, vehicles, detail-parts etc. etc. IMO is totally MASSIVE !

The cost is also modest, compared to most other scales also.



The disadvantage however, is there are NO R.T.R. TRAINS AVAILABLE. :f:

The size of buildings, compared to 1:48 is much bigger.

But for the more scratchbuilding & diorama inclined modeler, this is not the end of the world !



There are 1 or 2 nice loco kits available, plus of course there's BASHing your own.

If you don't wanna make your own track, PECO O-16.5 looks very good for 1:35n2



A 6' human figure works out to be exactly 2" tall.

1:32 car models are 'close' in scale-size, but somewhat bigger next to a 1:35 equivalent.

On30 or HO wheels, trucks & mechanisms can be used & modified to good effect.

There are many suitable & cheap plastic model kits available in 1:35 scale.



If you have any specific questions on 1:35n2, please ask Tom.

Of course I like it, I'm doing it !

I have previously worked in a number of other scales & decided this is where my future is.

Perhaps it could be good for you ?



:moose:



Si.

W C Greene
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Si, don't forget that I know a little about 35n2 myself. And all that r/c stuff...just sayin'...

Woodie

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Mack,

I got into 35n2 about a years and having a great time with it!  RC for locos of course.

I kinda followed in Woodie's footsteps and built my layout outdoors like he did. 

Mack Saunders
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Micheal, I have been doing a lot of thinking about it all, and since there is an abundance of 1/35 around here, I am leaning in that direction.

If I figured it out right, that scale is around 3/8" = 1 foot? That will give larger buildings, but I likely will only do one or two of them,  animated with r/c.

Did/do you make your own engines and cars?

Tom

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Mack,

I use HO and On30 trucks and parts, and modify HO and On30 engines to 1/35 scale.  Many detail parts are actually O scale, but work just fine for 35n2.

I modified a HO scale four-wheel Plymouth, which really measures out closer to O scale, for 35n2.  Kept the hood, built an open-air cab, installed RC in a trailing water car.

Right now I have a Tyco 0-4-0 Shifter undergoing surgery.  I built a new tender shell to replace the original tender and it's large enough to fit RC stuff into.

Peco On30 track works good for 35n2.  I've used regular HO track in some areas and just bury everything under dirt and sand.  'Course you can handlay also.

At train shows I always look at used equipment that can be adapted for my uses, and that is also cheap.  Triang and Hornby cars are fun to work with...Si does a lot of modification with those.

I think that 35n2 is cheaper than other scales since just about everything is scratchbuilt.

Mack Saunders
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Thanks Micheal, that was good information.
After a visit to a friend this afternoon, he gave me these trucks that he had no use for...  would they be good to build a wee wagon or mining caboose or the like on??


They look well detailed.
Mack

Last edited on Thu Mar 8th, 2018 01:28 am by Mack Saunders

Si.
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" After a visit to a friend this afternoon
he gave me these trucks that he had no use for
would they be good to build a wee wagon or mining caboose or the like on?? "



Hi Tom :wave:



They look real nice. :)

Any idea what brand & what they are from ? L:

I've not seen that type before. ???





Fairly 'chunky' looking passenger-trucks ...

... a bit like the swingin' '60s vintage 'Tri-ang' HO diecasts I've been using.





On the left, with the original '60s 'Tri-ang' Transcontinental plastic wheels.

On the right, modded, sans coupler fixings etc. + new 'Kadee' On30 metal wheelsets & new filed-in clearances.





:pimp:


I've used some of my chunky looking passenger trucks for ...

:mex:  One of my recent crane cars ^^ above

:mex:  A heavy-duty flatcar (pair)

:mex:  An 0-4-0 Porter loco tender (single)

:mex:  A pair of small 4-wheel generator & light cars (singles)



A logging or mining caboose is a popular build on these.

Many small industrial railroads used 2nd-hand passenger trucks for things such as that.

Bit like us ! ;)



The nice thing about the old 'Tri-ang' diecast '60s trucks, are their 'chunkiness'.

Regular mooodern HO trucks like 'Kadee' or 'Athearn' look a bit small & slender for 1:35n2 to me.



:moose:



Si.

Last edited on Thu Mar 8th, 2018 02:33 am by Si.

Mack Saunders
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Hi Si

According to the package, these are made by WalthersProto ...Pennsylvania 2D-P5-Tuscan
Part# 920-2212.

They are quite heavy and appear to have real springs in them.

Looking at the underside of your crane car, it may answer my question, but when I do the math, I make the width of a 7'6" car, in 1/35, at 2.812 or so. Am I close? Looking at that crane car, there is quite an overhang. Are the cars stable?
A better pic of the detail ... Oh, and I was wrong ... not real springs but nicely done phone ones!


Cheers

Mack

Last edited on Thu Mar 8th, 2018 03:10 am by Mack Saunders

Si.
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" Looking at the underside of your crane car, it may answer my question,
but when I do the math, I make the width of a 7'6" car, in 1/35, at 2.812 or so.
Am I close?
Looking at that crane car, there is quite an overhang.
Are the cars stable? "



Hi Tom :wave:



There is a narrow-gauge 'rule of thumb' which says ...

... cars shouldn't be more than 3x the track gauge.

Of course one could find exceptions ! :P



Most of my car builds are based around basic dimensions of 'The Gilpin Tram' rolling stock.

Found in the 'Colorado & Southern' Folio of 100 years ago. :old dude:





Their caboose was the widest car that they ran, it was exactly 6' wide ! :thumb:





And 14' long. :pimp:





Your trucks would be too longer wheelbase to make this caboose. :f:

But would be perfect for a single truck 'shortie' caboose. :)



Or perhaps you could just start off making a 6' x 16' heavy-duty flatcar.

Very similar to the above ^^ crane underframe, which I think is that size as well.

That's what I did, to get a sense of basic 'scale size' when I started in 1:35n2



:moose:



Si.

Mack Saunders
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Thank You, Thank You. I will do a heavy flat car and see how we go ... baby steps and all that.

Would  a real heavy flat have had main beams of about 12"? That looks about right when I look at it. And I think they were taller than wide.

I'll play ... it's my railroad. I'll have some wine first and then it will look good.

Cheers

Mack

Si.
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Hi Mack :wave:



The main beams on that underframe, were cut from a 1/4" 6.35mm mahogany plank.

So those beams are quite a 'heavy-duty'  8 3/4" high.



I have used the 1/4" 6.35mm stuff for eg. heavier cars & cranes etc. :mex:



Some other lighter cars have 5mm high beams, which is just under 7" in 1:35 scale.

Toffee-apple sticks are 5x5mm ! ;)





The couplers I use are On3 scale 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution couplers.

In 1:35 scale these perfectly represent a 3/4-size narrow-gauge coupler.

They are easy to get hold of, pretty cheap, work good, are easy to install & look GREAT ! :)







:moose:



Si.

Mack Saunders
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Thanks again Si.

I was looking at the San Juan couplers a couple of days ago. I will get some on order.

I am going to have a go tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I was given some Kadee #148 couplers today as well so I will likely use them for now.

Fun Stuff.

Cheers

Mack

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Walther's PRR Express Car trucks... nice, very pricey.  The leaf springs will give your flat car a very nice smooth ride!  :shades:

Si.
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Hi Mack :wave:



Some wheely useful 1:35 scale information :- ;)



24.0"  -  17.4mm  D.& R.G.W. 3' gauge Griffin wheels

20.0"  -  14.5mm  Gilpin Tram wheels

17.4"  -  12.7mm  M.M.M.M.M.& M.Co. wheels ( On30 24" or OO 'Hornby' )

14.5"  -  10.5mm  Walthers ( HO 36" ) passenger wheels



:brill:



" I was given some Kadee #148 couplers today as well so I will likely use them for now."



Not a great idea I'm afraid. :f:

You'll learn absolutely nothing that will help you, by even looking at these ! :shocked:



IMHO coupler positioning & height, is by far the most important part of your car build. :thumb:

This particularly influences the position of the bolsters in relation to the cars endbeams.



The bolsters should be as far to the end of the underframe as possible ...

... whilst still allowing for the mounting of the couplers.

This will minimise any unwanted coupler 'overhang'.



Bolster thickness, truck mounting & wheel diameter are ultimately what determine 'coupler height'.

This obviously needs to be TOTALLY consistent on all cars & locos. :cool:


Give the 148s back, loose them, bury them or bin them ... :old dude:



:moose:



Si.

Mack Saunders
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Morning Si

Perhaps that is why the man gave me 6 packages of them. I will put them away for now.

Cheers

Mack

Si.
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Hi Mack :wave:



The 'Kadee' 148s are perfectly fine for what they were intended for.

HO trains.

I'm not sure exactly what 148s are used for ? ???

But I'm guessing that they are a 'special application' HO coupler.

At least not the 'standard' No.5s etc.

They've probably got an extra long/short shank or perhaps a staggered shank or something.



:moose:



Si.


Well, actually pretty 'standard' couplers, like a No.5 but with whiskers ! :old dude:

Great for HO ... No good for 1:35n2 though. :f:






Last edited on Thu Mar 8th, 2018 03:52 pm by Si.

Mack Saunders
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I was told that they are a direct replacement for the #5. I will take a pic of one.

Mack

Si.
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Hi Mack :wave:



I did look them up & Posted a pic. on the previous << Page.

Yes ... A bit like a No.5, but with WHISKERS ! :shocked: :old dude: ;)



:moose:



Si.


Last edited on Thu Mar 8th, 2018 03:58 pm by Si.

Mack Saunders
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Would they be OK for On30? After all ... model railway gauges are sorta like chips ... ya can't have just one;)
Mack


Si.
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Hi Mack :wave:



They are HO couplers. :us:



Kadee make a specific coupler for 1:48 narrow-gauge ...

... but the 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution coupler is WAY better than the 'Kadee' IMHO.

The 'Kadee' 1:48 narrow-gauge coupler is too small for D.& R.G.W. and W.S.L.Co. etc. prototypes.

The 'San Juan Car Co.' coupler is the correct size & looks way way better than the 'Kadee'.



In 1:35n2 the 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution coupler perfectly represents a 3/4 size coupler.

Great for smaller 2' prototypes.



:moose:



Si.



Here are the 'San Juan Car Co.' and 'Kadee' 1:48 narrow-gauge couplers together.





They are NOT moulded in 'grey', they did that for the photo apparently.

You can get the Evolution couplers in either BLACK or RUST colours.

Personally I get the BLACK ones.





The 'Kadee' 1:48 narrow-gauge coupler is the brown one.

An HO coupler is WAY smaller than this one.


:mex:


Last edited on Thu Mar 8th, 2018 04:56 pm by Si.

Mack Saunders
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Wow ... there is waaaayyy more to this than I thought. Methinks I best spend the day doing some quality control  in the wine cellar whilst I ponder all these options.

Of course, I chose to get into this just when Canada Customs decides that every package coming into the country that has a value over $20.00 cdn, needs to pay an extra $14.95.

Three times this week, so that adds a lot of cost onto this stuff, and as far as I can find, I have no local suppliers.

Cheers

Mack

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Hi Mack :wave:



It aint rocket science ! :brill:



Once you have considered wheel-size, truck-type, coupler-height & materials-thickness ...

... you are 1/2 way there.



I learned this stuff for 1:35n2 the hard way. :f:

There are no established 'standards' for this scale/gauge combination. ???



But I figure as a result, I can safely make decent recommendations. :P

Backed up by some facts & figures of course.

Not just 'opinions' or whatever. :y:



Just thought I'd try & Post the basics, to help you out.

Since you said your last railroading, was at 10 years old !

If your 1st car build goes OK, then that is a big boost & a good 'template' for more. :bg:



It's like riding a bike, once you can do it, it's mostly easy after that ...

... just be careful how much wine you've had ! ;)



:moose:



Si.





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I think you could use them on just about anything.

I used a pair of HO passenger trucks on a water car I built.  Looks fine to me.

Mack Saunders
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Si, please don't get wrong, I DO appreciate all of the help and info you have given. I do now understand more about the size of cars etc., and also the size of lumber required etc.

I will get the rest sorted. I can see the difference in the coupler size, and I will find some of the San Juan ones here in Canada ... somebody has to sell them!

I am going to play with a mock up flat car and see what I can do with that for now.

I guess I need to get this thread moved fron 0N30 to Narrow Gauge, since that seems to be the way I am going.

Cheers

Tom

Si.
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Hi Mack :wave:



Don't worry, I'm not getting you wrong. :) ;)

I understand perfectly what you said.

I'm always pleased to help anyone, if I can. :cool:



Basic good advice & information is all that is needed.

It is fun to experiment.

But it's also funner to get an ace result 1st time.



The 'technical' stuff like wheels, couplers etc. can end up being annoying later ...

... if not fully considered from the get go.

After all that stuff, comes the 'artistry' ! :P



:moose:



Si.

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Hi Mack:
you may find this gauge useful:
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm
You may have to build one for your particular scale/gauge (this one is HO) but after that life will be a lot easier.
Jose.

Mack Saunders
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Micheal, your water car does indeed look just fine. Thank You for posting it.

Mack

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pipopak wrote: Hi Mack:
you may find this gauge useful:
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm
You may have to build one for your particular scale/gauge (this one is HO) but after that life will be a lot easier.
Jose.
Thanks Jose, I will make one of them.

Mack

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One last question for now ... Si, what should the coupler height be from track top to bottom of the coupler(San Juan 0n30 ones)? If I know that, I can make a gauge.

Cheers,

Mack

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So, I ordered enough of the On30 couplers from San Juan to do 16 rail cars. That should keep me out of mischief for a while.
My 1/48 scale engine lathe kit arrived from wild west models. Not sure yet what I got myself into there yet ... pretty small bits in the package. According to my math, it would make an 8foot long lathe in 1/35. I will build it and put it on a big bench and see what it looks like.


Cheers
Mack

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" what should the coupler height be from track top to bottom of the coupler "



Hi Mack :wave:



There is actually really no 'correct' answer to that question. ???



I've never been able to find any info on that published by the 'San Juan Car Co.'.

However, that is probably because they assume several things :-

1. The coupler is being used as a replacement for an existing 'Kadee' On3 one.

2. The user has decided upon their own coupler height, to suit their own needs.



'Kadee' provide this drawing with their No.803 & No.807 On3 couplers.





The drawing is 'about' right for 1:35n2 generally.



The 5/8" railhead to car-bottom measurement, allows clearance for a 1/2" dia. wheel & flange.

My tendency would be to aim for a 8/16" or 1/2" railhead to coupler-center height for 1:35n2



The Evolution couplers are best mounted using an M2.5 machine-screw & above/bellow washers for adjustment.

Likewise, washers may be used on the truck fixing screw for adjustment of height there.

The bolster thickness can be varied as well, depending on what trucks you use.



I made a very simple coupler height gauge, from a block of metal, with a long M2.5 screw pointing upwards.

Washers & nuts can be added above & bellow the mounted test-coupler, to achieve your desired height.

What your desired height actually IS, may well change  a bit +/- depending on   .   .   .


:P


Here's a pair of photos of the 'San Juan Car Co.' couplers mounted on 2 different underframe types.

There is a slight wide-angle lens exaggeration of depth in the photos, which were shot on a cellphone.

Wolfy the wolf, is in reality much bigger, even though he is only standing just behind the cars.

Wolfy is exactly 2" tall, which is equal to 4x of the 1/2" wheel diameters.





The left car, has 'beneath the frame mounting', typical of many cars inc. D.& R.G.W. and W.S.L.Co.

The right car has 'between the frame mounting', typical of the 'Gilpin Tram' stock which was built this way.




On both these examples, the axle-boxes & mountings are from modified 'Tri-ang' 4-wheel British wagons.

Here they still have the original 'Tri-ang' plastic wheels on stub-axles fitted.

I replace the 1/2" placky ones, with mooodern 1/2" metal wheelsets on pinpoint axles.



:moose:



Si.

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Thanks again Si. I have a lot of wood around so I am just going to start a car and see if I can get it close, using that Kadee diagram. My couplers like won't be here for a week and a half or so.

Cheers

Mack

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OH Sure ... move a guy's thread after he has spent an afternoon doing quality control in the wine cellar:us:.  At first I just thought I had burnt out a few more brain cells, but then I remembered that I had asked you to do it.

Thank You

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" OH Sure ... move a guy's thread after he has spent an afternoon doing quality control in the wine cellar "



Hi Mack :wave:



Yep ... That's Freerails for you ! :P

See if you can find where it's moved to tomorrow !! ;)



- - - - - - -



I noticed that those Walthers passenger trucks, have screws for the built in electrical pickups ...

... taking advantage of the cast-metal side-frames.





Might be worth keeping those for a car with lights, or caboose or something. L:

Bachmann On30 trucks are a good choice for 1:35n2 as well.



:moose:



Si.



I knew I had a photo of my simple DIY coupler height gauge somewhere !






:)


Last edited on Fri Mar 9th, 2018 05:08 am by Si.

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Si, thanks for the pic of the gauge ... easy peasy. I'll make one up.
I borrowed some set up bars from my milling machine, and made a rough and ready frame jig. 


 The bars were a perfect size with nothing needed. This frame will dry overnight and I will put the deck on tomorrow.
Cheers
Mack

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Ha ... found my way back, no sweat!


So, now I have a basic frame. I need to add some bits and pieces ... and wheels ... can't forget the wheels:bg:

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Looks like I made a bridge ... err ... maybe the beginnings of a flat deck. We will see as there is more playing to go.


Mack

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OK, so I finally got Messrs Bodger and Daubs out of the pub and into the car shop. Mr Bodger had almost forgot how to use the lathe but he got there in the end and got the mounting bushings done.
Mr Daubs insists that he is a painter and he doesn't like working with wood, so most of what he messed up on this one, will be corrected on the next one ...he promised me:Salute:.


Anywho, it works well enough to put a load for the mill on it. Now, if only there were some more track, the load could get delivered.
I think I will look for some pics of a shop car with half shop and half flat.
Cheers
Mack

Last edited on Sun Mar 11th, 2018 03:07 am by Mack Saunders

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I'll have to wait until the new couplers come in to mount them, but I think they will work fine. 


The flat car on the left is on On30 wheels as is the one on the right. 
I will also make a deck for the old HO frame on the right if I can keep the boys out of the pub long enough.
Cheers
Mack

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I guess it could become a tank/freight combo as well ...


I am just printing another tank, just in case, as this one is spoken for.
Mack

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Hi Mack :wave:



How's things going in the B.G.& F. shops ? L:

&

What's that 'Green Meanie' critter yer got there ? :)



:moose:



Si.

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Hi Si

The "Green Meanie" is a Plymouth of unknown parentage. It was given to me by the same lad that gave me all the other stuff. It runs well, and will move some cars around for now, and will become something different when I scratch build another body for it.

As for the rest of the shop, it is slow. Work is being done on another car, better I hope, and some more tanks, and a practice paper craft/wood building. I am doing it all as the boys have had a couple of pub days do to snow. They don't like snow:shocked:

I am waiting for the couplers, and the speed controls, and a couple of other bits, and then I can get back at it.

I measured the flat car now that the trucks are on and it is within a whisker of the 5/8" height from top of track to bottom of car, so that was a good guess.

I was also given this wee critter, also of unknown lineage. It doesn't work and might end up being a drive gear donor for a scratch built rail truck in the future.


Cheers

Mack

Last edited on Wed Mar 14th, 2018 02:27 am by Mack Saunders

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Mack,

That red critter looks like an Athearn Hustler.  Probably rubber band drive, and runs on the fast side.  I think there use to be a gear drive kit for it.  Do some searching on the internet for various approaches to re-gearing it.

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Micheal, the wee engine is gear drive. I need to get out the multimeter and find out what the problem with it is.


Mack

Last edited on Wed Mar 14th, 2018 03:44 pm by Mack Saunders

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That is an Athearn Hustler fitted with an EARNST gear drive (maybe still available?). It appears to be missing the spur gear on the right (in photo) side which drives the gear tower. These drives make some "noise" but sound much like a real "growler" might sound. Also, I don't see any wiring from the strap on top of the motor to the INSULATED side of the frame. I owned and rebuilt several of these beasts in the long-ago.

Woodie

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Thanks for that information Woodie.

Mack

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W C Greene wrote: That is an Athearn Hustler fitted with an EARNST gear drive (maybe still available?). It appears to be missing the spur gear on the right (in photo) side which drives the gear tower. These drives make some "noise" but sound much like a real "growler" might sound. Also, I don't see any wiring from the strap on top of the motor to the INSULATED side of the frame. I owned and rebuilt several of these beasts in the long-ago.

Woodie

Would you (or anyone) happen to have a close up picture of the wire strap and where it goes, or a link to that sort of information? The drive gear is there on one end of the motor but there is no action in the motor at all.

I would like to get this running, but I have no idea. I do have a multimeter and I have checked that there is power in the track.

Mack

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Mack,

Couldn't find what you are looking for, but did find out that Lionel also made a Hustler that was geared:

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Mack, one side of the Hustler is insulated from the other side (frame). The motor SHOULD have a brass piece across the bottom which makes contact with the frame. The top piece may need to have a wire soldered(carefully) on it and attached to the other side of the frame. I would take the motor out (just grab it and wrench it up) the rubber/plastic motor mounts may or may not come with it. Then it's a case of touching power wires across the brass straps to see if in fact the motor is working. If it works, then you will need to do some wiring. Don't be afraid of any of this fiddling around, if you are then find somebody who would check it out. This ain't rocket surgery, just messing with model train stuff.
Lionel made a similar model (above), Marx made one (looks like the Lionel) but these had gear drives, the Athearn had a rubber band drive...me and another teenage buddy used to race the Hustlers. Two lengths of HO flex laid straight out, a power pack with wires to both tracks, and pillows at the end. Set the locos on the track, turn up the speed, and then GO-turn on the power pack. We would bet Cokes and french fries on the winner! Those rubber band drives made the locos go about 200 scale MPH!

Woodie

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IT LIVES!!!!

It just needed the wire added and there was life. Some fine tuning needed as the motor doesn't mesh that well with the gear tower. A wee spacer under one side of the motor will solve that while I order a new gear set from Ernst.

Thanks for the help.

Mack

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Way to go!

Woodie

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Thanks Woodie. I learned a bit about my multimeter in the process and figured out a bit about the elktriks part. All good fun and it felt good when the critter went down the track.

Mack

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Well, there isn't much new at the old BG & F line this week. The remnants of a 1/43 Corgi #910, ThornyCraft Van are on the desk whilst I ponder the surgery required to turn it into an r/c demon of some kind.

My couplers from the San Juan Car Company are in town,  and I once I pay the customs ransom, I should be able to fondle them.

Much brain time has been spent on a 1:35 traveling, overhead crane. I think I have the size down and am now deciding if it will be an indoor crane, or if it will be an outdoor crane. I might fire up the Sherline tomorrow and have a go at some wheels for it.

Other than that, just watchin the robins trying to get non existant worms out of frozen graound, while wondering to themselves why they left Florida so soon!

Cheers

Mack

Last edited on Mon Mar 19th, 2018 01:41 am by Mack Saunders

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The San Juan Couplers are now here so I can get on with the task of building some more rolling stock.
Si, how do you mount them? I thought of the proper size of Evergreen plastic rectangle for a box, and then a spacer inside it to centre and stabilize the coupler. 
Just a rough out to test theory ...


More work is required yet, but now I can get on with it.
Mack

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This was dropped off by Postman Pat (no kidding ... that is her name) this morning. Not sure what it will become just yet, but it is here. 


I ordered a month ago when I was going to concentrate on On30 and I might still do a diorama in that scale.
Mack

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" The San Juan Couplers are now here ...
Si, how do you mount them ? "

" I thought of the proper size of Evergreen plastic rectangle for a box,
and then a spacer inside it to centre and stabilize the coupler."



Hi Mack :wave:



I think the idea of 'boxes' is something that comes to mind, having looked at 'Kadee' style couplers.

99% of other coupler-systems ever invented, DON'T have 'boxes'.



The original 'Kadee' design, before 'whiskers', had an in-line, NOT a side-to-side, centering-spring.

This allowed a certain amount of drawbar-pull movement, limited by the 'boxes' ...

... & it also allowed the coupler-shank to move 'sideways', for 'Magnematic'(TM) un-coupling.



'Magnematic'(TM) un-coupling is a great idea on paper, and CAN be very useful in some circumstances.

However, in practice unless you have your entire layout 'peppered' with un-coupling magnets ...

... which following 'Murphys Law' are NEVER where you actually want to un-couple a car ...

... a large part of the time, you will be sticking a small-screwdriver between the knuckles & 'twisting' to un-couple !



That said, a properly mounted 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution coupler, with 'whiskers' ...

... still performs this centering, albeit without the sprung drawbar-pull movement.





My personal feeling is that any DIY 'boxes' design as such, is hard to make work & is NOT needed in any case.



The simple M2.5mm dia. machine-screw is your friend.

Accept nothing else either, I tried some B.A.s U.N.C.s & self-tappers ... the M2.5mm is where it's at.



It can be secured with a 1 - 1.5mm plain un-tapped hole, in 'Plastruct' or wood perfectly.

Washers can be placed either side of the coupler-shank, ensuring smooth movement & correct height adjustment.



My builds have a pair of draft-timbers under the main frame to center the Evolution couplers 'whiskers' ...

... or are mounted 'Gilpin Tram' styleee, between full-length frame beams.








My cars have hand-brakes, not air-brakes.

So in view of the fact I have no intention of 'peppering' track with un-coupling magnets everywhere ...

... I decided sometime ago, to cut off the 'Magnematic air-hoses', like on the 'Gilpin Tram' styleee frame on the right.



The actual position of the M2.5mm machine-screw mounting hole ...

... should allow the knuckle to clear the short timber above the pair of draft-timbers ...

... & stick out a certain amount, without too much un-sightly shank-length being visible.

Have a look at a few proto-photos to see how far various couplers project from car ends.



I would actually recommend making & gluing on the pair of draft-timbers & short timber above ...

... & then just 'Blu-Tak'-ing the coupler in, until you have made a few more cars & perhaps adapted a loco.

Rushing to mount the couplers too soon, could be a mistake.



A fairly long M2.5mm machine-screw is good as well.

Better to start with a 20mm long one & trim it, than having less than maximum threads inside the mounting hole.



I hope that helps.

A bit of a jumbled up load of info.

But I think perhaps surprisingly, there is more to say about this than some may think.



:moose:



Si.

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Thanks Si

I will check in the odds and sodds bucket for some of those screws ... I know they are here somewhere.

I will convert one of the critters first and see how that goes.

Cheers

Mack

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Sorry to say that not much is happening on this front at the moment. Much thinking is being done, but that is about it. Hopefully real life will get out of the way and the fun can begin.

Cheers

Mack

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And so, we have a pile of bits, waiting to be made into an r/c vehicle.


This is a 1/43 vehicle, and I have an idea for it, but I am still looking for the same sort of thing in 1:35.

More soon.

Mack

Last edited on Fri Mar 30th, 2018 03:28 pm by Mack Saunders

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Hi Mack :wave:



This ... MACK ! ;)  A.C. Bulldog, which Michael grabbed recently, looks pretty  C :cool: :cool: L .

It's a 1:32 scale diecast I believe & pretty cheap and available in North America.



I would probably consider one myself, if it weren't for the $$$ :shocked: shipping across the Pond. :f:

Maybe I'll see one for sale in Blighty some day ?





Another nice vehicle & an 'essential' bargain-buy for anyone looking to get poorer buy a couple o' Bucks $ ...

... is the 'Matchbox Models Of Yesteryear' diecast Ford-T in 1:35 scale. :mex:





These were made in 'tanker' ... 'van back' ... & ... 'pick-up' ... versions, in ZILLIONS of different liveries.  :)

I'm sure there are TONS of these lurking on Canadian eBay for peanuts. :P





Whilst a tad small for an R.C. Truck conversion ...

... this one has been decimated, as you can see, & is a candidate for a  C :cool: :cool: L  railtruck ...

... using one of those nice miniature gearmotors. :thumb:



The 'pick-up' version is a bit rare over here, so I've found. L:

I have a 'van-back' one as well.

I like the 'tanker' though, as you basically get a good rear for conversion ...

... & I've used the spare diecast tank, for a small 4-wheeler maintenance oil carrier car.



Break out the VISA card !! ...  &  pimp that pick-up ! :thumb:



:pimp:



Si.

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This is a better pic of the winch and speed controller and motors I currently have. The winch is off of an r/c 4 wheel drive of some kind. It can pull/lift 5 lbs . I have the one complete unit as well as 3 more motor/transmission combinations as well as a couple of spare transmissions. They were originally going in an r/c tug boat with a dual winch and two tugger winches. They will now be used to r/c a yard crane and a critter or two.


Mack

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Si. wrote:



The only thing missing here are the scale concrete blocks for the axle ends to rest on. Looks like your monochromatic scale SS soldier in the background stole all the wheels!

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I had one of those trucks some time ago,it morphed into a rail bus......Peter.

Attachment: DSC_0015 (3).jpg (Downloaded 61 times)

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Si, because those die cast vehicles are rarer over here, they can be very expensive, and shipping is expensive as well, but, there are a few bargains.

We have our local train show here next weekend, so I will be looking for some goodies.

I actually just won a 1:35, Model T van back on ebay uk yesterday ... outrageous price ... 0.99 p ... however, I did not realize that the cdn dollar was down so far, and postage will be $14.00! Oh well, that is still way cheaper than one from here.

Cheers

Mack

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Peter, I am hoping to do something similar when I get mine.

Mack

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Mack,I had a lot of fun building the rail motor with bits and pieces from kitbashes and I was pleased with outcome........Peter.

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This kit will become my 1:35 railbus. I am looking for a prototype at the moment.


This will keep me busy for quite a while.
I also picked up some DAP and casting plaster today, to get going on a building or two.
Cheers
Mack

Last edited on Wed Apr 4th, 2018 10:32 pm by Mack Saunders

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Hi Mack :wave:



Pimp  :pimp:  my ride BABY !



An interesting kit. :thumb:

I have one of those Rodens, in the 'stash' ! :bg:

Quite a BIG lil' fella. :shocked:



This might be of some interest.

This is Maine 2'er the 'Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes' railbus ... No.4 ... I believe.

A kinda similar length & size to the Opel omnibus ... More or less kinda ...






:moose:



Si.

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Hi again Mack :wave:



Don't forget that some passengers travel with ...





... one or two bags !  :shocked:  :Crazy: :P



You might need a luggage rack.  L:



;)



Si.

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Si, I had my choice of the early or late Opel. I liked the early one better.
The kit has a wimpy roof rack, and I have already planned a larger one, as well as a good ladder on the back.
I was also thinking of making the very back of the thing into a baggage compartment. As you say, it is large, with a ton of room in it.
Mack

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The frame of the Opel is 7 3/4" in real time, so by my calculations, that works out to about 20 1/2 feet long in 35n2. That is about what I wanted.

Cheers

Mack

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Post Lady Pat dropped off my speed controllers today. They are larger than the original one I had, but they will work just fine for the travelling crane in the diorama.


Next, I need to get the radio and get on with laying out the crane base.
Cheers
Mack

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" Si, I had my choice of the early or late Opel. I liked the early one better "



Hi Mack :wave:



I have the 'late' Opel.

Not that much difference, is there ? ???



I seem to recall the 'late' one has the sunken spare-wheel holder in the side of the body work ...

... & the 'early' one doesn't. L:



You know what I really liked about the one I bought best ? ...

... It was about HALF THE PRICE of all the other versions I saw. :) :bg: :P :cool:





You prompted me to get mine out last night & have another good look at it.

Not sure what 'the plan' is yet.

So maybe I can 'steal' some ideas from another builder ! ;)



It's always interesting on the Forum, when several people are tinkering with similar models.

I thought this sprue-photo could tempt anyone who might see it. ;)





I really like the way that Doug did the front-truck mounting on his Updah railtruck. :brill:

Hadn't seen that before, or maybe I have on a turntable or sumtink ?



The track pick-up wires go up the middle of a thin-hollow-tube, which is the truck-pivot.

NEAT !  :thumb:



:moose:



Si.


Last edited on Thu Apr 5th, 2018 11:46 pm by Si.

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Si, mine was not cheap, but I did get it locally so no shipping involved. The shop has several more Roden kits, but I have spent enough on this at the moment. This one will be radio controlled when it is done. The quality of the kit looks pretty good, although the roof rack bits are all broken so I will have to make my own anyway.

Cheers

Mack

Mack Saunders
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Things are getting a tad messy on the build table so I have had to bring in a professional organizer to spruce things up a bit. I will leave him to it whilst I go to the local train show.


There are way too many irons in the fire at the moment and not nearly enough time to do them all.
Mack

Mack Saunders
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Not a lot going on ... the 3d printer has been doing all the work. 
One of the buildings I want to do is a model of the waterworks department of Hamilton, Ontario Pumphouse. It has two huge, once steam powered beam engines. It also has huge windows, 12 to 14 feet tall. I have been doing some prints and have a range of sizes.


The ones on the left and in the centre are 1:35 scale, and the ones on the right are 1:48 scale. I haven't decided on the scale for that building and I am waiting for more info from Hamilton.
Mack

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I have decided I will have a turntable or two on this layout, so, I fired up Fusion 360 and drew up a prototype of the pit, centre support and outer track support. By making this in one piece, I am able to make sure that everything will be perfectly centred  and turn smoothly. 


The plan is to have this unpowered and manual operation, but that could change.
In On30 it would be 26 feet long and in 35n2 it would be critter turner at 17 1/2 feet.
Cheers
Mack

Last edited on Mon Apr 16th, 2018 09:27 pm by Mack Saunders

Mack Saunders
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I'm off on another tangent for a couple of months.

Cheers

Mack


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