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The 'B.G.& F.' Line - 1:35n2
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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2018 05:20 pm
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Mack Saunders
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W C Greene wrote: That is an Athearn Hustler fitted with an EARNST gear drive (maybe still available?). It appears to be missing the spur gear on the right (in photo) side which drives the gear tower. These drives make some "noise" but sound much like a real "growler" might sound. Also, I don't see any wiring from the strap on top of the motor to the INSULATED side of the frame. I owned and rebuilt several of these beasts in the long-ago.

Woodie

Would you (or anyone) happen to have a close up picture of the wire strap and where it goes, or a link to that sort of information? The drive gear is there on one end of the motor but there is no action in the motor at all.

I would like to get this running, but I have no idea. I do have a multimeter and I have checked that there is power in the track.

Mack



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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2018 07:34 pm
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Michael M
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Mack,

Couldn't find what you are looking for, but did find out that Lionel also made a Hustler that was geared:



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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2018 10:01 pm
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W C Greene
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Mack, one side of the Hustler is insulated from the other side (frame). The motor SHOULD have a brass piece across the bottom which makes contact with the frame. The top piece may need to have a wire soldered(carefully) on it and attached to the other side of the frame. I would take the motor out (just grab it and wrench it up) the rubber/plastic motor mounts may or may not come with it. Then it's a case of touching power wires across the brass straps to see if in fact the motor is working. If it works, then you will need to do some wiring. Don't be afraid of any of this fiddling around, if you are then find somebody who would check it out. This ain't rocket surgery, just messing with model train stuff.
Lionel made a similar model (above), Marx made one (looks like the Lionel) but these had gear drives, the Athearn had a rubber band drive...me and another teenage buddy used to race the Hustlers. Two lengths of HO flex laid straight out, a power pack with wires to both tracks, and pillows at the end. Set the locos on the track, turn up the speed, and then GO-turn on the power pack. We would bet Cokes and french fries on the winner! Those rubber band drives made the locos go about 200 scale MPH!

Woodie



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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2018 10:21 pm
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Mack Saunders
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IT LIVES!!!!

It just needed the wire added and there was life. Some fine tuning needed as the motor doesn't mesh that well with the gear tower. A wee spacer under one side of the motor will solve that while I order a new gear set from Ernst.

Thanks for the help.

Mack



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 Posted: Fri Mar 16th, 2018 05:04 am
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W C Greene
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Way to go!

Woodie



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 Posted: Fri Mar 16th, 2018 04:39 pm
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Mack Saunders
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Thanks Woodie. I learned a bit about my multimeter in the process and figured out a bit about the elktriks part. All good fun and it felt good when the critter went down the track.

Mack



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 Posted: Mon Mar 19th, 2018 02:40 am
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Mack Saunders
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Well, there isn't much new at the old BG & F line this week. The remnants of a 1/43 Corgi #910, ThornyCraft Van are on the desk whilst I ponder the surgery required to turn it into an r/c demon of some kind.

My couplers from the San Juan Car Company are in town,  and I once I pay the customs ransom, I should be able to fondle them.

Much brain time has been spent on a 1:35 traveling, overhead crane. I think I have the size down and am now deciding if it will be an indoor crane, or if it will be an outdoor crane. I might fire up the Sherline tomorrow and have a go at some wheels for it.

Other than that, just watchin the robins trying to get non existant worms out of frozen graound, while wondering to themselves why they left Florida so soon!

Cheers

Mack

Last edited on Mon Mar 19th, 2018 02:41 am by Mack Saunders



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 Posted: Tue Mar 20th, 2018 04:45 pm
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Mack Saunders
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The San Juan Couplers are now here so I can get on with the task of building some more rolling stock.
Si, how do you mount them? I thought of the proper size of Evergreen plastic rectangle for a box, and then a spacer inside it to centre and stabilize the coupler. 
Just a rough out to test theory ...


More work is required yet, but now I can get on with it.
Mack



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 Posted: Tue Mar 20th, 2018 11:37 pm
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Mack Saunders
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This was dropped off by Postman Pat (no kidding ... that is her name) this morning. Not sure what it will become just yet, but it is here. 


I ordered a month ago when I was going to concentrate on On30 and I might still do a diorama in that scale.
Mack



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 Posted: Wed Mar 21st, 2018 12:36 am
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Si.
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" The San Juan Couplers are now here ...
Si, how do you mount them ? "

" I thought of the proper size of Evergreen plastic rectangle for a box,
and then a spacer inside it to centre and stabilize the coupler."



Hi Mack :wave:



I think the idea of 'boxes' is something that comes to mind, having looked at 'Kadee' style couplers.

99% of other coupler-systems ever invented, DON'T have 'boxes'.



The original 'Kadee' design, before 'whiskers', had an in-line, NOT a side-to-side, centering-spring.

This allowed a certain amount of drawbar-pull movement, limited by the 'boxes' ...

... & it also allowed the coupler-shank to move 'sideways', for 'Magnematic'(TM) un-coupling.



'Magnematic'(TM) un-coupling is a great idea on paper, and CAN be very useful in some circumstances.

However, in practice unless you have your entire layout 'peppered' with un-coupling magnets ...

... which following 'Murphys Law' are NEVER where you actually want to un-couple a car ...

... a large part of the time, you will be sticking a small-screwdriver between the knuckles & 'twisting' to un-couple !



That said, a properly mounted 'San Juan Car Co.' Evolution coupler, with 'whiskers' ...

... still performs this centering, albeit without the sprung drawbar-pull movement.





My personal feeling is that any DIY 'boxes' design as such, is hard to make work & is NOT needed in any case.



The simple M2.5mm dia. machine-screw is your friend.

Accept nothing else either, I tried some B.A.s U.N.C.s & self-tappers ... the M2.5mm is where it's at.



It can be secured with a 1 - 1.5mm plain un-tapped hole, in 'Plastruct' or wood perfectly.

Washers can be placed either side of the coupler-shank, ensuring smooth movement & correct height adjustment.



My builds have a pair of draft-timbers under the main frame to center the Evolution couplers 'whiskers' ...

... or are mounted 'Gilpin Tram' styleee, between full-length frame beams.








My cars have hand-brakes, not air-brakes.

So in view of the fact I have no intention of 'peppering' track with un-coupling magnets everywhere ...

... I decided sometime ago, to cut off the 'Magnematic air-hoses', like on the 'Gilpin Tram' styleee frame on the right.



The actual position of the M2.5mm machine-screw mounting hole ...

... should allow the knuckle to clear the short timber above the pair of draft-timbers ...

... & stick out a certain amount, without too much un-sightly shank-length being visible.

Have a look at a few proto-photos to see how far various couplers project from car ends.



I would actually recommend making & gluing on the pair of draft-timbers & short timber above ...

... & then just 'Blu-Tak'-ing the coupler in, until you have made a few more cars & perhaps adapted a loco.

Rushing to mount the couplers too soon, could be a mistake.



A fairly long M2.5mm machine-screw is good as well.

Better to start with a 20mm long one & trim it, than having less than maximum threads inside the mounting hole.



I hope that helps.

A bit of a jumbled up load of info.

But I think perhaps surprisingly, there is more to say about this than some may think.



:moose:



Si.



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