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The 'B.G.& F.' Line - 1:35n2
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 Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 07:31 pm
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Mack Saunders
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Micheal, your water car does indeed look just fine. Thank You for posting it.

Mack



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 Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 07:33 pm
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Mack Saunders
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pipopak wrote: Hi Mack:
you may find this gauge useful:
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm
You may have to build one for your particular scale/gauge (this one is HO) but after that life will be a lot easier.
Jose.
Thanks Jose, I will make one of them.

Mack



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 Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 07:46 pm
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Mack Saunders
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One last question for now ... Si, what should the coupler height be from track top to bottom of the coupler(San Juan 0n30 ones)? If I know that, I can make a gauge.

Cheers,

Mack



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 Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 11:54 pm
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Mack Saunders
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So, I ordered enough of the On30 couplers from San Juan to do 16 rail cars. That should keep me out of mischief for a while.
My 1/48 scale engine lathe kit arrived from wild west models. Not sure yet what I got myself into there yet ... pretty small bits in the package. According to my math, it would make an 8foot long lathe in 1/35. I will build it and put it on a big bench and see what it looks like.


Cheers
Mack



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 Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 12:28 am
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Si.
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" what should the coupler height be from track top to bottom of the coupler "



Hi Mack :wave:



There is actually really no 'correct' answer to that question. ???



I've never been able to find any info on that published by the 'San Juan Car Co.'.

However, that is probably because they assume several things :-

1. The coupler is being used as a replacement for an existing 'Kadee' On3 one.

2. The user has decided upon their own coupler height, to suit their own needs.



'Kadee' provide this drawing with their No.803 & No.807 On3 couplers.





The drawing is 'about' right for 1:35n2 generally.



The 5/8" railhead to car-bottom measurement, allows clearance for a 1/2" dia. wheel & flange.

My tendency would be to aim for a 8/16" or 1/2" railhead to coupler-center height for 1:35n2



The Evolution couplers are best mounted using an M2.5 machine-screw & above/bellow washers for adjustment.

Likewise, washers may be used on the truck fixing screw for adjustment of height there.

The bolster thickness can be varied as well, depending on what trucks you use.



I made a very simple coupler height gauge, from a block of metal, with a long M2.5 screw pointing upwards.

Washers & nuts can be added above & bellow the mounted test-coupler, to achieve your desired height.

What your desired height actually IS, may well change  a bit +/- depending on   .   .   .


:P


Here's a pair of photos of the 'San Juan Car Co.' couplers mounted on 2 different underframe types.

There is a slight wide-angle lens exaggeration of depth in the photos, which were shot on a cellphone.

Wolfy the wolf, is in reality much bigger, even though he is only standing just behind the cars.

Wolfy is exactly 2" tall, which is equal to 4x of the 1/2" wheel diameters.





The left car, has 'beneath the frame mounting', typical of many cars inc. D.& R.G.W. and W.S.L.Co.

The right car has 'between the frame mounting', typical of the 'Gilpin Tram' stock which was built this way.




On both these examples, the axle-boxes & mountings are from modified 'Tri-ang' 4-wheel British wagons.

Here they still have the original 'Tri-ang' plastic wheels on stub-axles fitted.

I replace the 1/2" placky ones, with mooodern 1/2" metal wheelsets on pinpoint axles.



:moose:



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

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http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 12:54 am
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Mack Saunders
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Thanks again Si. I have a lot of wood around so I am just going to start a car and see if I can get it close, using that Kadee diagram. My couplers like won't be here for a week and a half or so.

Cheers

Mack



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 Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 02:34 am
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Mack Saunders
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OH Sure ... move a guy's thread after he has spent an afternoon doing quality control in the wine cellar:us:.  At first I just thought I had burnt out a few more brain cells, but then I remembered that I had asked you to do it.

Thank You



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 Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 04:55 am
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Si.
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" OH Sure ... move a guy's thread after he has spent an afternoon doing quality control in the wine cellar "



Hi Mack :wave:



Yep ... That's Freerails for you ! :P

See if you can find where it's moved to tomorrow !! ;)



- - - - - - -



I noticed that those Walthers passenger trucks, have screws for the built in electrical pickups ...

... taking advantage of the cast-metal side-frames.





Might be worth keeping those for a car with lights, or caboose or something. L:

Bachmann On30 trucks are a good choice for 1:35n2 as well.



:moose:



Si.



I knew I had a photo of my simple DIY coupler height gauge somewhere !






:)


Last edited on Fri Mar 9th, 2018 05:08 am by Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 06:56 am
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Mack Saunders
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Si, thanks for the pic of the gauge ... easy peasy. I'll make one up.
I borrowed some set up bars from my milling machine, and made a rough and ready frame jig. 


 The bars were a perfect size with nothing needed. This frame will dry overnight and I will put the deck on tomorrow.
Cheers
Mack



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 Posted: Fri Mar 9th, 2018 05:49 pm
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Mack Saunders
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Ha ... found my way back, no sweat!


So, now I have a basic frame. I need to add some bits and pieces ... and wheels ... can't forget the wheels:bg:



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