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Stub Switch Construction
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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 09:54 pm
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Michael M
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I have tried to build switches from scratch a number of times without any success.

Stub switches look like they might be easier to build.

And, they would fit in just fine with my two-foot gauge model railway.

Can anyone provide a very simple, easy-to-read, straight forward way to build a stub switch?



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Michael
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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 03:25 am
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pipopak
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Unless regular switches that rely on side pressure against the outside rail for alignment,
stubs have to to be perfectly aligned to work every way.

Take a look here:

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/1558

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ix8PN9p0mh0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Skra5t_x3rs

Jose.




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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 08:27 am
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W C Greene
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Yep, it is more difficult to get stubs working right than "regular" point type switches. I try to have the "moving rails" and the running rails in the switch to be exactly in gauge and line up properly each time I throw the Caboose Hobbies groundthrows-that's all I use. BUT, hard living and other things cause the parts to NOT LINE UP sometimes. I used to not have any problems with correctly adjusted "knob & rod" controls...if I wanted to make mucho work for myself, I'd go back to that way again...but here I am, just have to watch things when the loco crawls across the joint. Thank goodness I have r/c and don't need wiring, stubs require special wiring and a DPDT to control the frog polarity when using old timey power like DC or DCC.

There ain't any tricks, just careful work and being sure the rails all line up properly. Have fun!
Woodie

***Just looking at the videos Jose posted makes me damn glad that my switches ain't wired! And the dude with the expensive under table Tortise machines and the throw bars and adjustable linkages makes me glad that my KISS principle (Caboose throws) does the job!***

Last edited on Sat Jan 20th, 2018 08:33 am by W C Greene



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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 08:59 am
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Michael M
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Somewhere in my reading,
it was suggested that a brass wire be soldered on the web of the rails of a stub switch,
to help with lining up everything.

Guess I'll just have to dive in and give it a try.


Woodie,

I'm with you on all that complicated wiring and fooling with switch machines.
I would never consider building a stub switch if I was using DC/DCC.
BPRC is the way to go!
I've been using knob and rod controls for my switches,
but have been playing with some toggle switches to use as turnout controls. 




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 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 01:55 am
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Bob R
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I love stub switches and personally find them quite easy to set up.

Under the throwbar portion of the turnout I embed a piece of 1/8th ply into the base unless you have a ply subbase already.
To limit the throw I simply drill a small hole and insert a piece of wire at each end of the throwbar carefully aligning the rails.
You can see one in the picture.

The other is under the Caboose Hobbies ground throw.
I use the sprung ground throws.
To keep the rails level I drill and place a piece of wire "squared U shape" over the throwbar.







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 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 06:29 am
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Michael M
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Bob,

Thanks for the great photos! :2t:

That gives me a good idea of how these stub switches should go together.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 12:36 am
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Si.
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This photo has been up before ... :cool:





... but hey ! ... here it is again ! :P

&

If a 3-way doesn't get the job done ... L:





... here's Herbs legendary 'funky 4-way' ! :shocked:

Currently owned by one Mr. W. C. Greene :cb: of Big Bend, Texas !!


Now come on Woodie ... :old dude:

... don't hang it on the wall for another couple of years ...

... get some ballast round that sucker & haul some primo ore over it !! ;)



L:



Si.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 19th, 2018 07:07 am
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Michael M
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First stub switch.

Still need to get it installed on the layout.




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 Posted: Mon Feb 19th, 2018 06:06 pm
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Si.
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Hi Michael :mex:



:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:



Looks good & of course NO WIRING ! to do. ;)



Seems like you've gone for about a 5mm throw, from the pix. L:

You're not using 'Caboose Industries' ground-throws, are you ? ???

You got your own under-board rod-system, right ? :brill:


:pimp:


PIMP MY POINTWORK !

Oh ... WHOOPS ... I forgot ... There ARE NO POINTS ! :shocked:



:moose:



Si.



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http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Mon Feb 19th, 2018 07:55 pm
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Michael M
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Si,

Not having to worry about wiring this thing made my life much easier.

I took a piece of paper, laid it over a straight piece of Atlas track and rubbed the top of the rails with a pencil.
Then I took a 22" radius section, lined it up, and rubbed the top of the rails.
This gave me a layout of where the rails and frog would go.

I was planning on using a different switch control for this stub.
I still need to solder on some short pieces of round brass to the outside rails of the switch,
to limit the travel and make the rails line up nicely.

I picked up some mini toggle switches (eBay package of five for about $1).
I'll slip a short piece of brass tube over the toggle, flatten the top end, epoxy the thing on,
then drill a small hole at the top to insert the control wire.
The toggle switch will get buried with just the very top showing.
So, when I need to change the route of the stub turnout, I just have to flip my switch.

Sounds good, right?

I'll see how it turns out.




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