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| Posted: Sun Dec 31st, 2017 11:58 am |
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61st Post |
Larry G
Registered
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Hey Woodie,
I have a 1923 Chevy 1 ton stake bed truck just gathering dust. It is 6" long, 2" wide. The figure is 2" tall. The hood opens to reveal the engine. If this would fit your modeling scale, I'll send it to you free of charge.
If interested, PM your mailing address. Larry Gant
Attachment: DSC00001 (1).jpg (Downloaded 194 times)
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W C Greene
Moderator
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Thanks Larry, I can always use another cool old truck...especially a TEXACO truck!
Now, on to the usual BS...
OK, the monorail subject is about to be done, or rather about finished. I rescued the old monorail "locomotive" and one old "gondola" and built about 12 "A" frame supports. I laid some code 83 rail atop the supports and have glued them down to the layout. I added about 8" more land near the aerial tramway and the little village of Boquillas.
So far...I just "staged" these little scenes just to see what it will look like. You may notice a straight pin with ball top holding down the frames, these will keep things in line while the glue dries. There is a long siding next to this thing which I originally just used for ore car storage but is now the "connection" with the ore brought in by the monorail from up in the distant hills and canyons, another place to switch cars in & out. Like I wrote, there's just about 6 feet of "track" and that's all I want. NO, this will not be operational...it is just scenery. But it got models that I had stashed in dusty boxes and filled the need for something "different" to do while the weather is lousy and I just feel like messing with something different.
Today, new years' eve, it is about 18 degrees and some sleet on the ground...just a fine day to mess around in the heated garage.
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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Steven B
Registered
| Joined: | Thu Aug 13th, 2015 |
| Location: | Virginia USA |
| Posts: | 493 |
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Hehehehe, very cool. I like it because it is very unique and nicely executed.
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Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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W C Greene
Moderator
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Now, back to 2 rail stuff...
Many years ago, my little On20 Mogollon Railway (long before the 1:35 layout) was "Shay powered" with modified MDC HOn3 Shays upscaled to On20. One of these still runs on the Gila Tram mini layout. Anyway, since I was into DC then, I wanted to be able to run one lokie at a time without any blocks, etc. so what I came up with was to install small magnetic reed switches in the locos' cabs which turned them on & off when I passed a magnet across the cab roof. This worked like a charm and later on, I wanted to duplicate the plan on my 1:35n2 r/c locos-still Shays. The problem was that I ordered the "correct" Circuitron parts that I had used before but by now, the company had changed the parts (same #) and apparently "cheapened" the things. I spent the dinero and bought a couple from the LHS and installed one in a loco. It promptly burned out. I installed the other one and it did the same, there is actually less power concerns in the larger locos and battery than on the old layout. I called the company and they told me that the parts were the "same thing" as before...no they WEREN'T. Oh well, I went on and used tiny SPST switches to turn off the batteries. These worked fine but I got fed up with having to get my big old fingers on the tiny switches every time I wanted to run or shut her down.
Lately, I found that MOUSER ELECTRONICS (I don't work for them or have any connection-I send them money & get the parts) has the switches that are EXACTLY what I used before! And since they weren't "made for model trains" or some such BS, they were cheap...about $2.50 each! So I ordered a pack of 10(in case I screwed one or two up) on a Tuesday...by Wednesday (one day later) the parts arrived at my door! What service! Now, I am about 100 miles from Mouser but still...
So, I will now install them in my lokies and then not have to touch the damn things unless they need a charge or jump the track.
When I get the job done, I will post some photos.
I can let out the "secret" part # if anybody wants it.
That's my story for today....
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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Bob R
Registered
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Echo what Michael said. I have micro slide switches in all my little engines and am not crazy about having to pick them up all the time to turn on and off. I have thought about reed switches but they are all either normally open or normally closed requiring a magnet to be present. One of the DelTang receivers has built in circuitry to operate with a reed switch. Otherwise it is necessary to have a separate switching circuit. Interested in what you are doing for sure.
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Bob
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W C Greene
Moderator
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OK, I will fix a loco and post some pix. These are normally open switches and I plan to "hide" the magnet in a tool box or some other bit of "detail" which can sit near the switch. I used the on/off switches long ago but had lights in the locos so I could tell when they were turned off. This way, I just have to remove the magnet and she's turned off.
More on the news update at 11!!!
BTW, the info from MOUSER are Little Fuse #934-MRPR-20-22-38...they are about $2.64 each (not 2.55) if you get a pack of 10 then it is $25.50. I was very pleased with the prompt service. MOUSER's phone # 800-346-6873 and they take all known or unknown debit & credit cards.
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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W C Greene
Moderator
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Here's the switch and a metric ruler for size. Also shown is a small piece of a burned out can motor magnet which activates the switch. As you can see, the switch can be mounted somewhere on the locomotive and the tiny magnet can be inside a tool box, etc. which is then laid in proximity to the switch and it is "ON", remove the tool box and it's "OFF". Very easy and this gets rid of the pesky little toggle switches. The local Hobby Town has "rare earth" micro magnets which would work but I had this magnet and my being cheap, would rather spend $0 than spend $15 for a few magnets. Now, to install the switches...that will happen in a while. More to come.
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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pipopak
Moderator
| Joined: | Wed Apr 13th, 2011 |
| Location: | Florida USA |
| Posts: | 2030 |
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Also keep in mind that, if you have to bend the terminals, MUST hold them with pliers between the switch and where you want to bend them. Otherwise the glass will break.
Jose.
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Junk is something you throw away three weeks before you need it.
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W C Greene
Moderator
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Yep, I know that also. I used these over 20 years ago on my On20 layout and learned what one can and cannot do. I just converted Shay #1 and will post pix when I am through running it to the mines. Needless to report, it works fine. BTW, I broke down and bought a pack of teeny tiny rare earth magnets (100 for $13.00) and these are perfect for the purpose. No more messing with tiny SPST switches...wunnerfull!
Now, photos:
Coal bunker in #1, the reed switch is glued with Elmers (just to be safe) behind the coal boards and painted flat black. The old on/off switch wires were soldered to each side of the switch. The wires, etc. will be "cleaned up" later.
The tiny rare earth magnet has been glued to a piece of wood, later to be fixed up as a tool box or something else. This is shown to the right of the water hatch.
The little piece of wood & magnet is in place on top of the switch. The board is now active. The magnet has enough power to stay in place without any hassles. I made a pair of plastic tweezers to be able to take the magnet off the switch, it would attach itself to a metal tweezer. I may make a more rugged tweezer from brass later but am now having fun running, switching, and not having to mess with a silly little SPST... I am very happy.
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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