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Michael M
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This not an original idea by me...I know I've seen it done before.

I took a small plastic container/storage box that I found at WalMart for 99 cents and turned it into an ore car.
The box measures about 2.75 inches long by 2.25 inches long, and the the bottom part is about 1.75 inches.
I tossed the top and the two side clips the hold the top on.
Made a frame out of styrene, and painted it with sort of a mineral red from a rattle can.
Trucks and couplers and I'm in business.

I made it with the intention of using it for On30, but it seems to be on the large size.

It might go better in a larger scale like 1:35n2




















Those are O scale figures.

I've been toying with the idea of trying 1:35n2...the car might look better for that scale.


pipopak
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Rail crew is not wearing OSHA-approved hard hats....

Jose.



W C Greene
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Hard hats be damned...I love their attire!
The ore car is an interesting idea, I'm always looking at stuff to use in modelling...
whether at the drug store, grocery store, wherever...
You never know what will catch the eye.

Woodie


Cor V
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pipopak wrote: Rail crew is not wearing OSHA-approved hard hats....


Don't forget the approved safety boots (_!_)

Cor



Michael M
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Railroad management is rather progressive thinking. 

Women engineers...why not? 

And, who needs a dress code.


Michael M
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I knew I had seen this before. 


Here's the link:

http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/ftopic7718-0-asc-0.php


Michael M
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Would anyone happen to know what the absolute minimum radius a HO Mantua 0-6-0 with tender would take? 

I got a new narrow gauge locomotive in mind.



W C Greene
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Michael, I have one also.
It will run around 15" radius, maybe less.
Why don't you get a length of flex track and see for yourself?
Good luck...

Woodie


Michael M
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I would, but I haven't bought one yet. 

The middle drivers are blind so I'm thinking that it might take a 12" or even a 9" radius?



Kitbash0n30
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Pardon my housekeeping disaster here.
Mechanism shown is from an older 0-6-0T by Mantua. Note same blind center driver.
And note that it is off the rails.
But even so, it will make the 9 inch radius curve.
Just out of sight to right are alligator clips from an ancient MRC power pack for a test drive to make sure I know what I'm talking about.
Mechanism will take down to nine just fine.
Limiting factor for a tender engine is whether drawbar length is long enough to allow clearance on such curves.
12 inch that Michael suggested is probably the better choice.
Oh, wait, you are Michael!





Michael M
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KitbashOn30,

Thanks for the information. 

I know 9" radius is kinda pushing the limits,
but as long as the locomotive can squeak around a 9" curve then I'm good to go. 

I'm building my equipment (1:35n2) to take the tightest possible curves,
so that I know if I lay out wider curves I won't have a problem.

Like those boxcars.
On30?


Michael M
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Any suggestions for track centers when modeling two foot gauge (HO track) in 1:35 scale?

I'm thinking about 4" track centers. 

Am I close?



Michael M
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I believe that most two foot gauge equipment was about 6' to 6'6" wide. 

6' in 1:35 scale comes to 2" 
So, I'm thinking that 4" track centers would be okay. 

But, I'd like to hear from those that have built 1:35n2 layouts to see what their recommendations are. 

I know we can fudge some since most build their own rolling stock,
but it would be nice to have some general guidelines.


Kitbash0n30
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I can add one thing to remember even though I build in On30, Gn15, G, HO -

Remember to increase track centers on curves,
to allow clearance for car middle overhanging, inside of curved track,
and car ends overhanging outside of curve track.

And that clearance dimension gets larger as curves get tighter.

I'll say that reminder for y'all here,
even though at our model train club I recently let the N scale guys learn by doing,
as they laid track on a new layout.


oztrainz
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Hi Michael,

There is a rough "rule of thumb" that the width of rolling stock should not be more than 3 times gauge for stability reasons,
but it can be broken (if not shattered) when you get the engineering right.

Have a look at http://www.freerails.com/view_post.php?post_id=85361 and the rest of this thread. 

Forrest's point about overhangs on curves is worth considering, but with the following modifications:
  • the overhang in the middle on a curve becomes worse rapidly as the wagon length (bogie centre distance for bogie wagons) increases.
  • the outside overhang at the end of the wagon gets worse rapidly the further in the bogie centres or axles  are from the end.
  • if your coupling is over/near the outside rail on a curve, you will have derailment issues because of the end overhang.
Now if you follow that "3x rule" and, providing you don't go for excessively long wagons
(remember most 2' gauge rolling stock apart from some of the Maine stuff is usually well under 30' long),
you should be able to get away with 3 to 3 1/2" track spacing on the curves.

At 3' to 3.5" track centres, it might not be a real good idea to be standing between the tracks on a bend as trains pass each other :w:
But the wagons should miss :2t:
At 4" track centres,  not a problem  :2t::2t::bg:


Michael M
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I think the space between two passing trains was referred to as 'dead man's zone' or 'suicide zone'. 

I'd measure my equipment but right now all I have is one 1:35n2 ore car completed. 

I plan on keeping the equipment short, say on the order of 16' to 18' length maximum. 

So it sounds like 4" track centers are good to plan with. 

I do have a small layout that I am planning to build, but not before I get some more equipment built. 

A locomotive would be handy.


Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



When I started out making 1:35n2 stuff, I began with 2 locos, a Shay & Porter.

The very first thing I scratchbuilt, was the LONGEST and WIDEST car which I thought would be running on the railroad.

It was a 'Heavy Duty Flatcar' & is 6' x 17.5' over the end-beams.

I now have a Mogul to convert as well, this is slightly wider than the Shay & Porter, at 5'6" in 1:35n2.



I am following the 'rule of thumb' John mentioned, that 3x the gauge is the maximum width.

In general my 1:35n2 carbuild sizes are scaled from Gilpin Tram blueprints.

In fact the 2' gauge Gilpin Trams widest car, the caboose, was 6' wide & 14' long

A Gilpin Tram ore-car is about 4' x 14', a very few of their cars are longer, up to around 20', but not many.

These longer cars are also much narrower than the caboose, about 4'ish I seem to recall.



Recently I have been working towards some kind of 1:35n2 trackplan.

I have found it quite difficult to draw this AND understand fully the size of buildings etc.

I decided in the end, to experiment using real track pieces.

I adopted the standard track geometry pioneered in the U.K. by Tri-ang Railways(TM) back in the swingin' '60s.

This exact same geometry is used to this very day by many other manufactures as well, including Peco, Bachmann & Hornby.

Basically the track has 4 different 22.5 deg. radius sizes.

All of these plus the switches & crossovers are all designed to give a final track to track centre spacing of 67mm.



This geometry is proving useful in figuring out a good 1:35n2 trackplan.

I now have numerous Hornby track pieces to experiment with in 1:1

This is the most popular track in the U.K. a bit like Atlas in the U.S.

There is a busy and affordable market buying & selling it on eBay.

67mm is quite narrow for a 'real' track spacing & possibly will not actually clear on double 67mm spaced curves.

But I don't plan on having too many 'double track curves'.

The 'straight' clearance is OK for 1:35n2 however, a bit TIGHT though.

The Hornby switches & sections will likely only be used for constructing staging yard/s in the end anyhow.

Which will be straight and the tracks as close together as possible.



In the end, having some flextrack & perhaps some setrack pieces to experiment with, I think is a good move.

Also having a footprint for your biggest car could be good.

Even if it is only for now a cardboard rectangle, cardboard rectangles are actually pretty useful !



:moose:


Si.

W C Greene
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Is the passing siding on a curve? On a straight? Are the switches "normal" (#4, etc) or tramway types.
How wide/long are your cars/locos? And how many cars/locos are you wanting to be able to comfortably pass on a siding?
All this makes differences in the way the tracks are laid out.
I might suggest getting a loco and cars going before laying out track.
Years ago, I built a siding which was OK with a 1:35n2 Porter (On30 convert) and some Bachmann On30 V tippers/dump cars.
HOWEVER when I got a Shay and built longer/wider cars...it all went to s%^t.
I just measured the distance on the smelter siding and it was 3" center to center. A lot but nice.
You might get away with 2", all I know is to try it.
Hope this works for you.

Woodie


Michael M
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The passing siding will be on straight track so I really don't need to worry about overhang too much. 
Engines and cars will be short; at least that's the plan. 
I'm looking at just doing a simple oval with a few switches coming off for future expansion. 
The layout will be small and portable so curves will be on the tight side. 
I'll just have to remind the crew and any passengers to "keep your arms inside at all times." 
But, I think with 4" track centers I should be okay (famous last words).

1:35 scale is a new world for me and not use to everything being quite so large. 
Right now I have a scratch built cantina, 3 figures, 2 vehicles, motorcycle, some assorted HO track a few switches, and one ore car. 
I do have a HO Plymouth that I'm turning into some kind of funky home-built job.
With a cab just big enough to keep the engineer out of the weather.
 
Something along these lines:

http://38.media.tumblr.com/41e629cc4480e7778f3384a2d79bdea6/tumblr_naillh3RfG1qgvvn1o1_1280.jpg


I envision my little railroad along the lines of the Carson & Colorado, Death Valley Railroad,
along with the two-foot 'Baby Gauge', or Tonopah & Tidewater. 

Traversing desert and sagebrush...just two streaks of rust in the sand. 
Doing scenery should be extremely easy...
cover everything with sand and plop down a few clumps of brush and I'm done.

Even found a source for backdrops...aquarium backdrops.

Here's one:

https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/supplies/habitats-and-decor/habitat-decor/all-living-things-desert-terrarium-cling-reptile-background-5161596.html?

16" x 36" for $11.99.  Not a bad deal.


oztrainz
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Hi Michael,

If you are planning burying everything in sand, you can use the cheaper code 100 track.

Try working out how big the rail is from more than 12" away when you do something like this -

:bg:





On another forum, good results have been had using tile grout as fine ballast/sand.
This can be had in a range of colours and in larger sized quantities from hardware tiling supply stores than "usual" model train ballast options.
The usual wet water/PVA glue mix will make sure nothing moves after glue is applied.
Before the glue sets, make sure you have your flangeways and rail head clear of wet grout.
Once the glue sets it will take a hammer and a small chisel to clear out the flangeways.


Michael M
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Good idea for using grout for fine sand.  It will be a lot cheaper than buying those little bags at the local hobby shop.

pipopak
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Please note that are two grades of grout: sanded (coarser) and unsanded. Unsanded goes into thinner cracks, so it would better suited for smaller scales.
Jose.

Michael M
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Scrounging around I came up with a cheap little oil/fuel depot for my planned 1:35n2 layout.

The body of the tank came from a soda can, the ends were from two baby food jars.
The frame from some balsa wood, hose made from wire, and the fill line from some brass tube. 

I didn't have to spend one penny on building this; everything I had on hand.
Just about anything can be useful when scratchbuilding.















No sense in spending money when you don't have to.


W C Greene
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That's the way to do it! I don't have babies around or drink sodey water, but balsa wood is my preferred material for wooden structures. I use cookie pan aluminum, TP cardboard rolls, cast off pieces of small PVC tubing, and whatever I find that works on that particular day.
Keep it up.

Woodie

Kitbash0n30
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Ya gotta love 'found objects' modeling. :)

Michael M
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Okay, let's have a little fun.
First, let's see if you can guess what this is.
Second, what can be made out of it.
I get them for free, and I keep thinking that I can do something with it, but I haven't come up with any ideas yet.











W C Greene
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That appears to be from a roll of adding machine paper or similar. Glue several together to make a 12" dia.(in 1:35) smokestack. Many were made from sections.
Do I win the big bananna?

Woodie

Michael M
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Way to go Woodie!!!  It's the center of a roll of cash register paper.

I can take all I want because they just get thrown away.  A smokestack sounds like a good idea.  Maybe some kind of flatcar load? 

Si.
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Looks to be about 2' dia. in 1:35

Chopped up to the right length...

...& with styrene on each end...

...could make good barrels/drums.


:mex:


Si.

Michael M
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Barrels would work too.

Michael M
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The problem with making barrels out of that plastic register receipt tube is trying to cut a perfect circle.
Well, there is a way.
I use a round diamond tip drill to make the cap or end (or a round hole in styrene).
I found these on eBay and used them in the past to drill a hole in a glass wine bottle.
I would stuff a short string of Christmas mini lights inside and make it into a night light of sorts or a bar decoration.
My wife and I saw them in an out-of-the-way store, and my wife turned to me and said "you can make that."
"I can?"  Well, I did finally figure it out.
I will warn you; there is no centering drill bit so this thing has a tendency to wander.
So I would strongly suggest that you make some kind of form to hold the drill bit in place.








I found these drill bit on eBay and they cost about $4-6 depending on the size you want.


Cor V
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I use this sort of cutter, works good and you can use it for more then one size


Compass Circle Cutter


Cor

Michael M
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Neat little item.
Never thought of that.
Went and ordered one.
Thanks for the suggestion.


- - - - - - -


The female figure that I was waiting on finally showed up in the mail.
Cost was about $12 including postage.

















Michael M
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Ran across some Peco HO switches (#240 & 241) that have a 22.5 degree angle, 17.25 inch radius,
and are only 6 9/16 inches long.

Planning on using a few of these on my small 1:35n2 layout.





http://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=17484&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1


Gary I
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I've used a number of these on my small ON30 layout. They're only available from Peco's Setrack line as opposed to the Streamline products. I like the fact that they're a good substitute for a hand built "stub" turnout, which is helpful if you're squeezed for space like I am. But then I'm only running ON30 geared steam and porters, so smooth switching at high speeds is not something I'm concerned about, let alone would ever do.

Michael M
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Slow running will be the norm on my 1:35n2 layout (once I get it built). 

I think that the more we slow down operations the larger the layout seems to be.



Gary I
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Exactly! Fortunately for some of us that don't have the space or time to build a room-filling layout, there are ways to compensate and still enjoy the hobby. I personally have little interest in watching trains run continuously in circles and much prefer starting/stopping/switching, which works very well for small shelf/point-to-point layouts. Slowing things down goes hand-in-hand with that....another reason why I really enjoy geared steam.

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These turnouts look like a good solution for a tight area on my layout. Larry G

Michael M
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Even though I model 1:35n2 I used short equipment that will handle a 6 inch radius. 


So these switches will work great for me. 

I've tried making my own switches before and just never had any success. 


So I'll stick with Peco switches and Atlas flex track (with many ties removed)

and devote my energies to more rewarding projects.


Michael M
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Has anyone thought of using some Lionel cars for 1:35n2? 

I was looking at a Lionel Scout tender and thinking that it could be converted to some type of water car. 

It's metal and has rivet detail.

Any thoughts?


Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:


You'd probably be much better off with Peco 'Crazy Track' On30 flex.

It looks pretty nice for 1:35n2.

The ties are longer & wider.


Unless you totally bury the HO track, it will always look like what it is.

The switches are 24" radius, so not as short as the HO ones.

Spurs can of course curve away sharply from a 24" radius switch though.

They are not in fact THAT much longer than the HO ones & can be trimmed a tad at a push


:moose:


Si.


" I'll stick with Peco switches and Atlas flex track ... and devote my energies to more rewarding projects."


You may just be about to divert energies to far less important things.

Getting the track 'right' could well be the most rewarding part of what you want to do.


If you wanna change, add, rework a building...

...pick it up, put it on the bench & do what needs to be done.

A freight car isn't quite right, same thing...

...change a few details, repaint it, add a bit here & there.

No problems.

The track...

...if it doesn't work, or look right, or it dawns on you it appears wrongly scaled.

There aint much you can do about it...

...other than rip it all up, throw it in the bin & start all over again !

:f:


Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:


Well ... It's O-Scale I believe.

So you can't do anything useful with the trucks or wheels.

Even if you could re-gauge it, the flanges would be far too deep for Code-100 rail.

It's probably way too BIG to look any good in 1:35n2 anyway.

And 5-mins with some styrene sheet, would probably give you an easier 'tank' to work on.


How's that ?


I do like up-scales/re-scales.

But they have to offer something in the process.

The Lionel Scout tender to me, looks like it aint worth the trouble.

But hey, that's just my opinion, anything is possible . . .


:moose:


Si.

.

Attachment: DSCN23981_large.jpg (Downloaded 128 times)

W C Greene
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I agree with Si, this might be a cool thing to build yourself.
Yes, I have used "O scale" (On30) stuff for my 1:35n2...
like a Bachmann tank from their tank car and I do use Bachmann On30 archbar trucks on my rolling stock...
in 1:35 scale, they have a 3' wheelbase which is what the Silver City NG cars had.
And Bowser's line of old SELLEY O scale detail parts (brake wheels, etc) work fine in this larger scale.
On30 stuff converts easily to 1:35n2...my locos are "upscaled" Bachmann On30 jobs.
I have even used toy New Brite trucks, converted to 1:35 standard gauge with some old O scale Athearn wheels.
So, anything is possible, I advise getting or making a 1:35 scale ruler.
In my case, I decided that my scale is 8.25MM=12" because it's "close enough"...
and then 16.5MM gauge is 24" EXACTLY!
Have some fun...

Woodie





Here's a New Brite "converted" truck...just new wheels and bolsters.
The car doesn't operate, it is just "scenery" on the layout.


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Si,

I reluctantly agree with you that the Peco On30 track would look much better.
But it means a drive to The Whistle Stop in Pasadena (about 50 miles away).
I know I'll break down and do it, I just didn't wanna.

Most of the track will get buried in dirt and sand anyway.
I figured on laying some scale ties in the proper places.
I did plan on making a quick run up Cajon Pass on old Route 66 and filling up some buckets with sand and rock for scenery.
If anyone has visited Death Valley or followed some of the right-of-way of the Slim Princess (formerly the Carson & Colorado) in Owens Valley,
you'll have an idea of the setting I'll be trying to make.


Michael M
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Here's that idea for the beginnings of a 1:35n2 layout.
Just a basic circle with two switches peeling off for future expansion.
The layout will be about 24 inches wide by 28 inches deep; 9 inch radius.
My existing equipment is designed to handle a 6 inch radius so everything should be fine.
A place to run-in locos and just watch the trains roll. 










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There is a name for small round layouts, pizza; looks like one coming up here.
It probably has already been mentioned somewhere, this website has numerous inspirations for such things and some high quality modeling too, http://www.carendt.com/

Michael M
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I figured that if I design my equipment to negotiate a 6" radius, and build the layout to 9" radius there should not be any problems. 

All I have right now is one four-wheeled critter and two ore.borate cars. 

I do have a Mantua 0-4-0 that on the list to get converted to 1:35n2 when I get a round tuit. 

I've tried the Mantua on my 6" radius circle and it almost just makes it, so I'm sure it will be happier on 9" curves. 

My cars are 3.75 inches long or about 11.5 scale feet in 1:35 scale.


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there MAY be issues with couple-uncoupling if things get too tight and the coupler shanks aren't long enough. nothing to put the kibosh on your ideas, just additional considerations.

Dick Andrews did a tight one in the late '50s if memory serves, and he ended up with link'n'pins with buffer ends for pushing the cars. here's the trackplan: http://www.carendt.com/micro-layout-design-gallery/fork-using-just-one-switch/#1

http://www.carendt.com/small-layout-scrapbook/page-61-may-2007/ (scroll halfway down)

someone may be kind enough to post actual pictures (I cannot clip'n'paste here for some reason) or even "more better" the text article from the NGSL Gazette of the '70s column Dick wrote.

whatever you do, have fun with it. I think 1/35 is the perfect scale.

Michael M
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I appreciate everyones' concern but I don't anticipate much if any pushing or coupling/uncoupling. 

This is more of a place to get started with future additions to come later (sooner?).

Hence the two switches for extensions in either direction. 

I see it becoming more of a liner style layout with the loop being unimportant to operations.


W C Greene
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How about a 30" square for the layout?
I built a 2 by 4 foot On20 layout, HOn3 locos can barely make the 10" radius curves!
It took some "engineering" to make my MDC HOn3 Shay run on 10" radius but after some intense fiddling, I got it.
Do again? I would build 30" BY 48" and that's On20.
For 1:35n2, I really would go a bit larger.
Just my silly old opinion.

Woodie

BTW-I do use pin & links on this and all my 1:35n2 stuff.
And I do operate (switch, etc) with them, but you may learn new words along the way.


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I might make it a bit larger, but I also want it portable and manageable.  Later on, after I've added a few extensions, I just might lop off part of the loop.  Remember this is a small mining railroad located out in Eastern California-Western Nevada (think Slim Princess, Bodie & Benson, the 'Baby Gauge' (2 foot) out in Death Valley).  Most equipment, especially the locos, are hand-me-downs that have had several prior owners.  Many pieces of rolling stock have been built in the company shops from whatever was lying around.  The shop foreman's motto is "It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work."

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http://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=2587&forum_id=40

Here's a link to my little layout. You might find it interesting...maybe not.
           Woodie

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Tiny desert narrow gauge? Sounds like a winner to me, cant wait to see it develop!

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Woodie,

I'm re-reading your thread.
Been considering weather to lay down cork roadbed or not.
Someone noted that Hobby Lobby carries cork that could be used for road bed, and it's not expensive.

Already thinking about the first extension; a short passing track with a spur to a borax loading bin.
Cars will actually be loaded so the borax bin will have to have working loading chutes.
Maybe even a turntable.
The other end will have a rotating unloader.
The unloading track will rotate about 135 degrees and cars will be held by magnets between the rails and in the bottom of the cars.

I'm still thrilled that I've made so much progress in R/C.


- - - - - - -


Here's my water car made from a block of wood 1.5 by 1.5 inches and covered in aluminum from a soda can.
Rivets were hand punched one at a time (there's really not that many rivets). 








My standard frame of 13.5 feet long that I use seems to be a little short.
Think I'll add a couple of more scale feet to the length.


- - - - - - -


Built a longer frame, used HO passenger trucks (they look a little beefier), and a valve at one end, along with a hook for the hose.
Looks a little better with the longer frame.
Still need to touch up the paint a little.








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Hi Michael :wave:


I hope you don't mind.

I have 'Merged' a number of your small Topics together into 1 Topic ( this one ).


They were all things related to your new layout build.

The Topics were all short & Posted 'here & there'.


With these small Topics 'Merged' in date-order ...

... I think it is easier for people to follow your story.


If at some time in the future, you choose a 'name' for the new project/layout ...

... we can add that into the tittle of 'this Thread' for you.

Just ask ... it will be magically done ! :cool:


Sometimes it is good to just continue Posting a story in just 1 Topic, as many other Members do.

The whole project can then be easily viewed by people, in order, all in one place.


:moose:


Si.


I like the new water-car BTW Michael.

I added your Posts about it above ^^, as they were Posted in another odd Thread.

Perhaps you can Post some more new photos of it here, in the layout Thread.


Your critter & adobe building photos are kinda a bit 'lost' in other Topics as well.

It would be good to see some photos of them here as well, so people can find them easily.


:moose:

Michael M
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Si,

No problem in merging everything together.
I have kinda been all over the place with my posts.

Here is the finished water car.
I took some inspiration from some of Woodie's models along with some prototype examples from the D&RGW.

I used a block of wood 1.5" by 1.5", cut up a soda can for the metal body (hey, it was free).
Folded it around the block of wood, then punched a bunch of rivets before gluing it to the wood.
The frame was made with styrene, about 2" by 4.25", or 6 by 13 scale feet.

The water hatch is just a piece of styrene glued on to of a washer.
The valve at the bottom of the tank is a short piece of styrene tube.
I cut the tip off of a nail and inserted it into the tube and drillled a hole in the tank to receive the nail tip.
The valve handle was made from the head of a nail.
It looks about right to me.
Some wire insulation was used for the hose.

The car rides on some HO passenger trucks.





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Here are a few of my other projects:

The fuel tank was made from aluminum from a soda can.
The ends are the tops of baby food jars, and the frame was made with balsa wood.





This building was made from foamcore board and spackle.
The roof tiles were made from some curved poster board, windows and door from Grandt Line.





Woodie's Cantina was my first try at scratchbuilding a southwestern style building.
Foamcore was used for the base, then covered in plaster, with Grant Line windows.
The corrugated roof was made by dragging a ball point pen over some thick aluminum. 





I really need to get started on a layout so I have a place to run my battery powered trains.


Michael M
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Getting motivated to start on a new critter.

I have a couple of Bachmann Brill trolleys.
I thought the motor and trailing truck could be used to model a backwoods rendition of a Galloping Goose (R/C of course).

I'm going to take my inspiration from this home-built job that someone had posted in - o D d i T y - o F - t H e - d A y -





No matter how many errors I make on building this it will still look prototypical.
Just need to find a R/C car I can gut for the electronic parts.


Michael M
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Here are a couple of new acquisitions to my growing 1:35 scale models.
The car is a 1932 Ford Coupe in 1/34 scale (close enough), and a Homie with his guitar.
The Coupe I picked up at Walgreens for $6.00.
I've gotten a few Homies off of eBay for $4.25 each that measure about two inches tall, or close to 6 feet high.
Just need to hit the figure with some Dullcote to kill the shine.








The Homies add a little diversity to my growing population of figures, and I like the cowboy hat.


Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:


HOT WHEELS !


Looks like the guitar may have been owned by Pete Townsend ! ;)


:moose:


Si.

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:


I hope you don't mind.

I have re-Posted this here.

People can't easily follow your story, if stuff is Posted 'here & there'.

It's good to get it all in your Thread, so it is easy to find & follow.

It certainly confuses the hell outta me. ;)




- - - - - - -




ORIGINAL POST ... Michael M said :-


My Tri-ang TT scale tank car just showed up in the mail.
Kinda on the tiny side.
Only cost me about $5.00 including postage.








It measures about two inches long, or about six feet in 1/35 scale.
Thinking of turning it into an open-air passenger car.
I've got some of those Hornby spoked wheels on order which should look nice on this car.
Figured I would cut the frame and spread it wide enough to accept 16.5mm wheelsets.

With a bench seat at each end at about 18 inches deep would leave 3 feet in the middle.
Passengers would enter in the middle of the car.
With a width of 5 scale feet the car would hold 4 passengers.
Add some siding about 3 feet high, and a curved corrugated tin roof.

I'll install some couplers so that my planned rail bus (just as soon as I find some suitable RC componets.
Still thinking of that RC tank with two speeds; very slow and slow) could haul paying passenger around.

The tank itself could be put to other uses.
Maybe as a water container, or a fuel tank.

The shop foreman is not the kind of person to look a gift horse in the mouth.
Again, his motto is "as long as it works it doesn't have to look good."


Michael M
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Si,

No problem...I just seem to have a tendency to wander.


Finishing up an ore/borax bin.
Still need to add some details like nbw here and there.

The chute does operate.
In the up position it stops the flow of borax; in the down position it extends a little over the track so that I can actually fill my borax cars.
I'll have an actuating rod underneath connected to the chute, and a knob on the fascia to move the chute up or down.

I figure that I can load 3-4 of my borax cars without having to reload the bin.
Since borax is much lighter in density than ore my cars can carry more material.
Looking at using aquarium salt for borax.








In the background you might be able to catch a glimpse of my covered patio that is off the back end of the garage.
Could be the perfect place to set up an outdoor 35n2 RC model railroad a la Woodie style.
Even during hot summer days it stays fairly comfortable back there.
I even installed some misters to help cool people off on really hot days.

If anyone lives near the Pomona Valley area in Southern California go check out Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair.
They are heavy into RC, some HO and Lionel, a bunch of scratch building material, and a lot of military kits especially in 1/35 scale.
I've picked up a few 1/35 military figure sets for $5-6.00 each.
A neat place to wander around.

A quick trip to Home Depot to pick up some lumber to start on the frame for the first module of the 35n2 railway.
Still working on a name for the thing.
I've been collecting names that appeal to me.
Since the Spanish were the first to explore much of the Southwest I want to use some Spanish names.
The Animas River in southwestern Colorado was named by the Spanish as 'Rio de las Animas Perdidas', or River of Lost Souls'.
I haven't come across any mention of the Spanish visiting Death Valley though it is possible that they may have come close to it.
I have read some accounts of padres traveling from Santa Fe to the missions in California. 

For one of the desert flats I want to model I did come up with a Spanish name of 'Las Lagrimas del Diablo', or 'Tears of the Devil.'
Sounds like a great place to build a railroad.


Michael M
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For all you Tri-Ang lovers out there I took a Tri-Ang TT scale tank car and went at it with my Dremel rotary tool.

Sure hope the car wasn't some special collectors item.

Cut off everything but the journals, and split the frame to widen the gauge to 16.5mm.

Installing Hornby spoked wheels.




Photos to follow.




Took the Tri-Ang TT scale tank car apart.  Cut the frame to widen it to 16.5mm gauge.  Installing Hornby spoked wheels.


Good news and bad news:

Bad news:  Used JB Weld (two-part epoxy) to glue the frames to a new styrene frame but it didn't hold.

Good news:  JB Weld didn't hold, but needed to trim the frame a little so no problem in removing the metal frame from the styrene.

Trimmed the frame a little more and used E6000 to glue the metal frames to the styrene.

Now I have to wait for everything to dry.

W C Greene
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Howdy Michael, did you use JB WELD 5 minute epoxy? If so then I can imagine it being crappy...don't know why. However, I like regular old JB WELD, the one that takes 24 hours to set & cure. I once used it to repair an engine block on my old MGB and it worked fine until some teen bastards stole the car and totaled it! I also have good results gluing styrene and metal together with medium thickness CA. You need to get everything nice and clean but that works for me.

Woodie

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Woodie,

I used the old JB Weld that needs 24 hours to cure.  I'm thinking the frame wasn't clean and needed some roughness for the epoxy to grip.  The E6000 seems to be doing the job.  I'll give it some time to set.

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Here's a photo with the Tri-Ang frame mounted to the styrene frame.  The E6000 adhesive seemed to work good.




Michael M
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Looks a little better with wood decking.


Michael M
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Found a photo that gives a rough idea of what I'm attempting to do with this car.



http://www.zahradni-zeleznice.info/p_cars.html


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Ran across a photo on Pinterest of a inspection car powered by a 1" scale 4-6-2 Pacific that's propane fired.  Certainly gotta rank as one of the most unusual types of 'critters' bashed together.  Okay so you take a N scale steam loco and mount it on a short frame and have the motor power the wheels.  Easy to do in 1/35 scale.  Okay a prototype for everything!

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Michael M
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Making progress on the layout.
Dimensions are 30 inches deep and 26 inches wide.
I measured the width of all the doors in the house and the garage,
allowed for a little extra room so I wouldn't loose any knuckles,
and came up with 26 inches.

I considered using a variety of materials for the base,
but decided just to keep it simple since it was so small and used 1 x 3 framing with plywood top.
The scenery is going to be fairly flat anyways.
Taking Si and Woodie's advice I'm going with Peco On30 flex track, which is on order and should be here soon. 





Just a basic loop with two switches for future expansion.
Minimum radius is 10 inches.
I'm used to making my equipment handle 6 inch radius curves, so 10 inches radius will be no problem.


Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



The photos of car No.74 and loco No.9 out in the Californian sun look great !

I think your models were 'designed' to be outdoors in the sun !

Dark blurry flash-photos, don't do 'em justice !

Your 'outside' build photos are my favorites. :!:



I think you will like the Peco 'Crazy Track' ... as us Brits. sometimes call it. :Crazy:

I have a yard here, my cars look pretty cool with the code-100 rail and chunky ties.

Looks like you have worked the 24" switch in & got your tight radius as well.


Trying to ballast over HO track to me seems ... Well, I've thought about it & aint doing it !!



I figure you need to think about your couplers next Michael.

You have almost got enough car/loco builds, to decide on a basic 'coupler-height'.

The couplers must be reliable, to have a 'fun' railroad, cars un-coupling themselves don't make me happy.


I think you simply gotta dump the HO couplers ...

... and fork out $2 a car/loco, for the San Juan Car Co. 'Evolution Couplers'.

Get a small pack of 4 to try out ... You will love 'em & so will the models ... They look & work great.


You could follow the recommended mounting-height.

Or like me, decide your own.


I'm not that interested in 'magnematic' un-coupling ...

... so I've 'side-cuttered' the 'air-hoses', perfect for my hand-brakes.


A twist of a suitably sized flat-blade screwdriver, being my favorite cutting technique !



All looking cool Michael.



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.

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Si,

Okay, went and ordered some of San Juan's Evolution Couplers.  They're suppose to fit in a Kadee coupler box and mate with Kadee couplers.  Guess I'll find out for sure when the couplers show up.  I'm just so use to using Kadee couplers from my HO and On30 days.

I am really leaning toward leaving the layout out under the back patio.  I've already put a wood sealer down before laying the cork roadbed.    On the left rear track I've got just enough room to install my operating borax tipple temporarily until I expand further to the left.  The right side will extend out to give some room for an unloading facility and a small engine house.  Enough room in the center of the circle for a few buildings.  The rest will just be rolling desert with a little sagebrush...a bucket of sifted sand and gravel with some dried weeds.
 
The main problem I see with leaving the layout outside is dealing with the Santa Ana winds that we get; sometimes gusts up to 60-70mph.  A couple of years ago I lost part of the roof off the garage.



Michael M
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The Peco On30 flex track arrived today so rails should start going down in the next few days.

Got a name for the little railroad:  NYE, INYO & ESMERALDA RAILROAD

Kind of a big name for a short two-foot gauge line.

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I'm liking the name.  Three of my favorite places for certain.  Looking forward to more.:)

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Here is the beginning of the Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad.








I did use Peco HO switches with a couple of ties removed.
I like the Peco 240 & 241 because of the sharp angle.
Room is tight so ya gotta do what you gotta do.
I'll bury the rest of the ties in dirt and ballast.
Only took me a few hours this morning to get the track down.
The track nails will get removed once the ballast is laid down.
Also planning on installing some guard rails where the curves get close to the edge,
just so my RC critters don't take a dose dive concrete floor.

Still need to add a backdrop to the back.
And I want to build some sort of box that will cover the layout when not in use.
We can get some strong winds here in north San Bernardino, plus the Santa Ana winds can wreak havoc.

It's a start.
Need to get some buildings installed.
Planning on an extension to the right with a rotary dumper and engine house.


Michael M
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Need to do some test running of my equipment and make any track adjustments where needed.

Next I need to paint the rails and ties.  Got some rattle cans of spray paint.  Think I'll mask the switches and paint them by hand.  Don't want any paint gumming up things.

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Painted the track today on the NI&E Railroad.
I covered the switches so that the rattle can spray paint doesn't gum up everything.

Here is the first test run just to make sure everything works.
You can see how my R/C loco is packed pretty tight.











Can't forget Woodie's Cantina.





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Si,

My San Juan couplers showed up today.  A little larger than the Kadee HO couplers, but they look very nice!

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A little larger than the Kadee HO couplers,

Actually the HO ones are a bit overscale.
Jose.

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I hand painted the rails and ties on the turnouts so the spray painting wouldn't gum up everything.


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Hi Michael :wave:

Nice going on the track & base.

The San Juans are 3/4 size, in 1:35 ... Perfect.

Very easy to mount with a single screw, I use M2.5 machine screws.

Experiment with styrene or wood sides, for the centering-springs.

:moose:

Si.

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Well, after all this spraying, I'm going to my cantina and have a drink...or two...

Woodie

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The nice thing about this 26 x 30 inch section is that it's very portable and I can move it around when I need to do some messy jobs like painting the track.  I was trying for that well worn and sun bleached look. 

Already have extension plans in mind. 

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It's all that little stuff that gets in the way of greater things.

For switch control I used some slide switches epoxied to the underside.
Two holes are drilled in the handle.
One for a small wire that goes up through the eyelet on the throwbar of the switch;
a larger hole to accept a rod that used to move the slide switch.
It's a cheap and easy way to get turnout control without using a switch machine (and all the wiring that goes with it),
or having to reach into the layout to throw a switch.








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Been putting together a backdrop today.  Sawing, gluing, and painting.

Make slow progress on the railcar.  Still waiting on an RC car to show up in the mail so I can pull the guts out.  Have a pair of 14mm red spoke wheels for the rear.  Think they came from a place called 'You Kay'.

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Got the backdrop attached.
I think that every model railroad should have some sort of backdrop.
It's a little jarring to see a photo of a nice layout and then curtains in the background.
Sort of breaks the mood.





I've found that the tipple is just a little too deep to fit between the track and the backdrop.
Need to either shave a little off the back, or build a new one that's a little thinner. 

Added some guard rails where the tracks gets just a little too close to the edge for comfort.
Just trying to keep locos and cars from taking a nosedive to the concrete floor.
Had a few pieces of Atlas N scale track (code 80?) that I used for the guardrails. 





Michael M
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I post all this for feedback, and for those that may follow in 1/35 scale they can see my sucesses and many failures.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHaJBaZupD4

Michael M
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What we need is a rocket car!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86ZnWc1B7W4

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Just obtained an OO scale Hornby Dublo Bogie Bolster flat car.  Seems to be all cast metal.  Has possibilities.





My work space gets kinda messy.  Just so much to do.


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Howdy Michael, great work. I might advise you to attach that guard rail on the curve a lot closer to the running rail for it do do the job. An NMRA HO (On30, 35n2) STANDARDS GAUGE is a valuable tool for such things, guardrails included.
Take care & have fun.

Woodie

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Woodie,

You're right I didn't get the guardrails as close to the main rails as I would have liked.  Still it provides a little comfort knowing that if I have a derailment on those curves that RC loco won't go bounding across the countryside, or worse taking a nose dive into concrete canyon.

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Three main projects in the works:

Slowly working on a rail car.  The RC donor car should be showing up in the mail soon.  Once I get dimensions on the parts I can make better progress.

Decided I needed another borax car.  Need to finish the painting and lettering, then install trucks and couplers.

And of course there's the layout.  Installing the borax ore bin that will have a working chute so that I can actually load the borax cars.


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Still working on the operating borax ore bin.  Plan A didn't work.  Plan B doesn't look too promising.  Plan C just might come through.  I'd really want to be able to control the chute from a knob on the front of the layout.  It just bugs me to have to reach into a scene to throw a switch, or make something happen.  It should be hands off, or at least as much as possible.  If I ever get this thing to work right I'll post a short video.

pipopak
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Can you post a pic of the bin showing how it works and it's position relative to the layout edge?
Jose

Si.
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Could you screw/glue a piece of, say, 2"x3" along the back edge ?


2" - 3" wider could be enough ?


:moose:


Si.

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There is a rod underneath the tipple that goes up and down to move the chute.




I was looking at installing some linkage underneath so that when the rod was pulled or pushed the chute would go up or down but that got a little too complicated.

Now the rod is attached to a lever or fulcrum that when turned the chute goes up or down.



Still need to attach a small lever at the front of the layout, but it looks like this is going to work.



Need to let the epoxy setup to be sure it works, but it is looking good.  This is really just temporary as the ore bin will later get moved to a module on the left.  After this I can start adding some buildings and scenery.

Phase II will be a module to the right with a run around track, turntable, and unloading facility for the borax ore cars.

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Hi Michael,some off the wall thoughts -  from a dump layout operator (See my Jaxcilliest Enterprises below)
  1. Find a Lifelike operating coal loader bin (HO) This gives you a bin structure with a basic slide gate mechanism
  2. look at disabling the spring (not sure if this can be done easily)
  3. modify the pull arm on the gate so that it accepts a servo to operate the slide gate
  4. If you can't get the spring out, you'll need a high torque servo and mountings strong enough to ensure that nothing flexes when the servo operates.
  5. Add a curtain of chains (cheap jewellery stuff with small links will do) around the delivery chute to the car with chain lengths that will just hang inside the car hopper. This helps to minimise any "overspray" of cargo when loading. 
  6. If all else fails, at least you have an operational slide gate model to work from,
I hope that this helps you get to an operational bin sometime soon, 

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Oztrainz,

That's a really great setup you've got there.  Thanks for sharing.  Might try something like that down the road. 

Michael M
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Plan A, B, and C didn't work.  Spent most of Sunday afternoon working on this with only failures (must be a glutton for punishment).  Plan D: Did what I should have done in the first place.  Would have saved a lot of frustration.  Move the push/pull rod over to the right, along with moving the ore bin.  Installed a simple bell crank underneath the bin.  Pull on the rod and the chute goes up and closes; push the rod and the chute comes down and loads the ore cars.

Photos to follow.

oztrainz
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Hi Michael,
That is probably a pretty good call. Raising and lowering the chute is a whole lot easier than trying to make an operating slide gate. It also gets around larger particles jamming the slide gate part way shut while allowing smaller stuff to keep flowing and overflow your wagons.
Looking forward to your photos,

Michael M
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I'm gonna try posting a short video tomorrow if I can figure out how.

Michael M
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The 1/24 scale (?) RC race car just showed up in the mail.  I'll rip the guts out of this donor car for the rail truck.  4.5 volts, stick speed control, and all for $5.26.  Can't go wrong.

Need wife's help in uploading the video.  Coming soon.

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A working ore chute.  Simple, but it works.

https://www.facebook.com/michael.mazzacano/videos/vb.1469863415/10209116526218179/?type=2&theater

Last edited on Thu Jun 22nd, 2017 11:53 pm by Michael M

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@oz
that two-storey dumper idea seems to be international - here's a 'historic' clip.

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Third borax car (on the left).  Still needs trucks and couplers.  Trying for a different effect with faded lettering.  The story goes that when the original paint had faded so bad the shop foreman had a worker grab a paint brush and a can of black paint to give an area for new lettering and numbers to be painted on.  "Doesn't have to look good as long as it works."




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Making progress on the layout.








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The donor race car showed up finally.  Now I can start making some serious progress on the rail truck.  Still waiting on the voltage booster.  I'll be using a 3.7 volt Li-Po battery and kick the voltage up to 4.5 volts.





I'm using a Bachmann Brill Trolley for the lead truck which is powered.  The red wheels will be the rear.  Planning on installing couplers, at least on the rear, so that it can haul the lone passenger car when needed.




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Got the rear wheels mounted on an axle, and that attached to the frame of the rail car.  Now to take the donor RC car apart and see how much room I'll need for the electronics.  This will be a rather short truck used for packages and mail. 




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Had a little trouble with the rear wheels.  Ended up narrowing the gauge just a tad so that there was a little play.  Taking the RC car apart.  All I'm really interested in is the circuit board and the on/off switch.  The car comes with lights which I don't need.  The green and blue wires go to the motor.  The board is only 1 3/8 inches by 1 7/8 inches so no problem getting it to fit in the cargo area of the rail truck.



The blue tape is holding the antenna so I don't loose it.


Please excuse the messy work space.

Michael M
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Just picked up a Tri-ang HO wagon.  The body will get removed and the frame used for another open-air passenger car.  I'll swap out the wheels and replace them with Hornby spoke wheels.




Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



Interesting.

I can't 100% see.

But you appear to have got a long wheelbase diecast frame ...

... WITHOUT the early style round axle-box holes.



You may or may not have noticed.

But this diecast underframe is probably not a 1, but a 2 part underframe.



The left & right sides are probably both held together ...

... by the hollow-rivet that fixes the closed-loop couplers at either end.

Drill or side-cutter those rivets & the underframe will become 2 left & right parts.

Each half located by the rivet & a 'pip & hole' at each end.



Out of all the Tri-ang diecast underframes here, I only have 1 shorter wheelbase wagon like this.

Haven't done anything with it yet, as it is different to all my others.



Might give it a whirl a bit later. :bg:



:moose:



Si.

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Si,

The frame is plastic, and about 3 3/8 inches long.  The frame appears to be one piece.  I'll get rid of the couplers, buffers, and some of the brake gear.  It feels a little on the light side so I'll need to add some weight.  But all this will have to wait until I get other projects completed.  Need to finish the scenery on the layout, or at least get the basic ground cover done.

I already have the material I need to start on the next module going off to the right.  This will be a small yard with a borax dumper and a turntable.  This will allow me to operate a push-pull service to the borax tipple, and a little passenger service.



Please ignore the messy work space.

Si.
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Hi again Michael :wave:



Ah ! :shocked:

I did wonder if it was a plastic underframe.

Almost impossible to tell from most photographs though.

The later plastic truck/bogie wagons are easy to identify in photos.



I've always thought there must have been very few diecast with closed-end axle-boxes made.

But perhaps that's only because I always look for ones with open-ended axleboxes.



I guess then that the wheelsets are easy to drop out & change.

I wonder if they are the 'normal' modern 26mm point-point axles ?



Lima are one of the few makes to use a different size axle.

Theirs are a 24.5mm point-point axle I believe.

A Hornby wheelset won't fit a Lima wagon I think.

And a Lima wheelset will fall out of the axleboxes if tried to fit to Hornby.



Mmm ...



I guess that wagon might be marked 'Tri-ang/Hornby' on the bottom ...

... and not just Tri-ang.

A much later model possibly after Tri-ang bought Hornby & the companies merged.

Good find in any case I'm sure.



:moose:



Si.

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Si,

The bottom just says "Tri-ang" and "Made In England".  It's a bit longer than that Tri-ang TT scale car I got a little while ago.  I still think it will make a nice start for another open-air passenger car, and it should look nice trailing behind the rail truck I'm working on.  Another welcomed addition to the NI&E.  Would still like to find a few more metal frame cars.  There's a train show coming up in a week or two; maybe I'll get lucky.

Michael M
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The rail truck is making some progress.  Initially I was going to put the on/off switch and charging plug underneath the frame on the rear, but as construction continued I found that I could make the cargo box removable.  Wasn't planning on sealing everything up since all the R/C stuff is going in there and I'm sure I'll need to get to it once in a while for maintenance.  A little less wiring and makes life a lot easier.


Michael M
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Making progress on the rail truck.  I remember reading somewhere that the Galloping Goose (gooses? geese? gander?) were clad in aluminum and as they rolled down the track some of the clading would flap in the wind.  Regardless I clad the cargo box in aluminum made from the top of a serving pan.  Since the NI&E has a mail contract I added lettering 'United States Mail'.



The cab still needs a roof.

Michael M
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Found a copy of The Gilpin Gold Tram, Colorado's unique narrow-gauge by Ferrell for $15 and it should arrive in about 10 days.

Even though I'm modeling the area around eastern California & western Nevada around the Death Valley area The Gilpin can provide inspiration on the equipment they used since it was also a two foot gauge line.

Here's a little information about Skidoo in Death Valley: http://cali49.com/mojave/2015/12/8/skidoo-death-valley-cal

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Went to the Great Train Show in Pomona today and met up with my son, Mike, and his wife, Amiee.  They're putting in a G scale layout in the backyard.  Told him about Freerails and trying to get him to go with battery power.

The show was a little smaller this time; not as many vendors or layouts.  Sitill managed to find a few goodies: a Shinohara #4 switch new-in-the-box for $3, package of brass track for $2 (just using it to help with planning out the next extension), 3 N scale tank cars $5, 1 HO tank car $4, and 2 HO cast metal underframes $1.

I think that I can use the metal frames for flatcars.  The HO tank car will be used somehow for fuel or water, and the same with the N scale tank cars.  The switch will get used on the planned extension since I'm lousy at handlaying track.  I'll remove a few ties, and after it's painted and ballasted you'll never know the difference.


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Encountered a few problems with the rail truck.  The truck requires a high voltage to get started.  More voltage than the Li-Po battery can supply.  Also, while fooling with the truck I managed to short out the board in a puff of smoke.  Got a new, and much better, RC car to use. 

I re-powered the trolley truck with a 20 RPM motor.  Looking at the truck there are some reducing gears.  Probably to overcome the high voltage required to get the thing started.

In testing out the rail truck it took about 13 minutes for it to go one foot!  That's about one-third mile per hour.  Talk about counting the ties!  So, a 200 RPM motor has been ordered.

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Puff of smoke, must have been a diesel. Grins.

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Wasn't planning on adding a smoke unit.

Note to self:  Insulate bare wires BEFORE plugging in battery!  :bang:

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While trolling for 1/35 scale figures I came across this:


1/35 Machine Gun Girls

https://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-figures-modelkasten-mk-f-3-1:35-machine-gun-girls-3-figures?zenid=d3c95a9a4e56f806de22a619882c23d0


A little pricey but something to add to my wish list.

BNA Model World also carries other female figures. 

Last edited on Thu Jul 20th, 2017 10:49 pm by Michael M

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Stained the frame of the layout and put some polyacrylic on to help preserve the wood.

The vacant pad on the right is where the mining office goes.  Just need to put some lettering on it. The vacant spot left rear is where a small station will go (once I get it built). Next on the list is an outhouse.

This I'll make it out of corrugated tin. Hey, you gotta have a few outhouses for the local population.





Any progress is good progress.

Attachment: Copy(10) of P1010002.JPG (Downloaded 69 times)

Last edited on Fri Jul 21st, 2017 06:52 am by Michael M

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The Roundhouse Gang Model Railroad Club put on a swap meet today at the Old Santa Fe Railroad station in San Bernardino.

Picked a few things.  Two rerailers, two Atlas Custom-Line switches, a pair of doors (about 5'6" in 1/35 scale), and some figures ranging from 5'6" to 6'3", and what looks to me like a mule.



The rerailers I'll cut down in length and use them as short connecting tracks between each section of layout.  The Atlas switches will have several ties removed, and then painted.  Once ballasted and some of the ties buried in dirt you'll never know the difference.  The figures I got for a buck each; not a bad deal at all.

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Hi Michael :wave:



AWESOME progress ! :thumb:



Your outdoor photography is great with REAL sun.

U.S. Mail No.59 looks like a nice addition to the roster.

Genuineee aluminium siding as well. :)



The first layout section looks AWESOME outdoors in the 'California Sunshine' as well.

I'd be playin' the Beach Boys outside here, if it would warm up & stop raining for 5 mins. ;)

The structures are  T:cool::cool:   C:cool::cool:L  as well !!



I am altogether very envious :f: of your first running section Michael.

I gotta get some track down & some damn paint splashed about ...

... am such a slow coach though. :slow:



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.

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Si,

Thanks for the compliments.  Even though Section 1 is small it at least allows me to do a little running.  For me that gets the juices flowing. 

Been spending the morning on the framework for Section 2, which is 18" by 42".  That will contain a very minimal yard, short turntable with a few engine tracks, and a unloading facility for the borax cars.  I take a lot of inspiration from Woodie's Mogollon.

Since the area I'm modeling is desert I don't have to get fancy with the scenery.  I've been using some sifted dirt, sand (that's used with concrete), and some course sand with pebbles from some sand bags that I picked up at the county service yard.  Twigs and such from the backyard, along with some green and yellow grass that I had tucked away from years ago.  I used diluted wood glue (Titebond) to attach everything.

For the guardrails I used some rail from some Atlas track sections and glued it down with epoxy.

Nothing fancy here.  Not breaking any new ground here with scenery.  I'll keep adding little details here and there.  The only major change will be moving the ore tipple to the left-hand side when Section 3 gets built.

W C Greene
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The layout is looking great! Something you might investigate is the dirt & rocks that seem to be (here at least) in the alleys, gutters, and where cars & trucks tend to crush it down. That's where I find lots of scenic material. All the way from small stones, which may be too large to use, down to very fine dirt which would even work in N scale! I try to find the dirts & stones which are light in color. Here in Texas (and probably where you are also) "Austin chalk" rock is just below the surface. That's what mixes with the darker dirts to make the lighter colors that I like. And I can use larger pieces of the stone for rocks, it takes stains very well. I also take chalk rocks and pound them down to make finer grades of material.
Nature provides better scenery than what can be bought in a store...my opinion. Keep your eyes open and look at what will work on the layout.
Have fun and run a train today.

Woodie

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I've been meaning to go over to Cajon Pass (BNSF and UP run through there) and pick up some dirt and small rocks.  Just haven't made it yet.  I wanted to get down some basic scenery so everything didn't look so naked.  I'll go back and add some more.








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Now I can start working Section 2.  Just playing with track pieces to see how everything will come together.  I have a general idea in my head; just not good at putting it down on paper.




Borax dumping facility on the left; turntable on the right.


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I pays to be a packrat!  :glad:

Michael M
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Digging through some boxes in the garage in search of some track.  In all its' glory there it was.  Sitting in a box with miscellaneous stuff completely forgotten.  A Bachmann On30 Two Truck Shay. :glad:  Completely unopened,.  Still in that shrink wrap.  :glad:

Holy Gilpin Tramway!

Shades of Silver City, Pinos Altos and Mogollon Railroad!


Now I've got some serious motive power for the N.I. & E. Railroad.

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It pays to be a packrat!

It does, but my wife strongly disagrees.....

Jose.

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My my wife doesn't like it either.

Think of it this way.  Model trains are collectable, therefore they are considered a hard asset (like gold or silver).  By purchasing more trains you are securing your financial future.

Let me know if your wife buys that line.

pipopak
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A hard (to sell after) asset...
Tried that. Got a frying pan as a hat...
Jose.

Si.
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I would like to have seen that ! ;)


:moose:


Si.

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Thanks a lot buddy!. Some support group...
Jose.

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I would have liked to have seen that also!

You wouldn't happen to have a photo of yourself wearing that frying pan by chance?

pipopak
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I felt safer running away... Priorities, ya know...

Jose.

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I hear ya.

Good thing I can run faster than my wife.

Michael M
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A dim light bulb went off over my head.  As I was messing around with some switches and track sections on the new extension I thought I could use avoid-it-like-the-plague brass track.  Don't need to worry about electricity since I run on RC.  Thinking that brass rail would weather nicely compared to nickel silver rail.



Rereading Woodie's Mogollon Railway thread for a little inspiration, and to take a closer look at his shays.  As soon as some money shows up I'm going to go ahead and order some RC equipment as suggested by Si.  I want to do my shay right, so I'm going to spend some extra money on good RC equipment.

Michael M
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Working on a small station for Whiskey Junction.  Came across Locitite Crafter's Indoor-Safe Adhesive.  It comes out like a paste, but dries clear.

No pictures of the station yet.  Had to do some alterations to the building due to my poor planning. 

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Here are a couple of more photos.  Looks a little better with a few people and a couple of vehicles.






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The new motor for the rail truck came in the mail.  It's 120rpm and I figured that it would work much better than the 20rpm I first tried.  Okay, so I tested it out and the rail truck does a whopping one foot in four minutes using a 3.7v Li-Po battery!  Well, that is a lot faster then the 20rpm motor I first tried.  That took the rail truck 13 minutes to go one foot.:bang:

I think I'm beginning to see a pattern.  One foot at 120rpm takes four minutes; then 480rpm should do the one foot in a minute.  960rpm should do two feet a minute.L:

Just to confuse the issue I added a voltage booster that takes it from 3.7v to 4.5v.  Takes the rail truck about 1 minute 15 seconds to go a foot.  Looking better.

Looking at another 12v micro motor that is 1000rpm.  Slow is good since my layout is on the small size.  At least I don't have to worry about re-creating Woodie's episode of his rail truck launching its self at 85mph!  Decisions, decisions.  I'm thinking I'll leave well enough alone for now, but go ahead and order the faster motor just in case.  I could always use it on a different project, and besides it's nice to have a small stock of needed materials on hand rather than waiting impatiently for it to show up in the mail. 

I do need to adjust the spacing on the rear wheels.  They're set just a tad too wide and drag a little when the rail truck goes around those 10 inch radius curves.

I'm always open to suggestions if anyone wants to chime in.

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



If it's one of those gear-motor jobs ...

... you just need a direct belt/chain drive & you should be fine !


You got a load of reduction gears already in your power-truck, right ?



:mex:



Si.

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Si,

Yes, the power truck has several reduction gears.  But I really like those micro motors since they're so small, not very expensive, and it fits so nicely inside the truck. 

I did notice that the wheels on the powered truck slipped a little.  With some added weight they did much better.  May put some of that crocodile snot on the wheels for a little added traction.

I may just leave it as is.  Especially since it runs a little faster at 4.5 volts.  Besides I'm not out to break any speed records.  I figure, with the yard I'm working on, that it would take about four minutes to travel from the yard to the junction (Whiskey Junction).  It would certainly help to make the layout feel larger.

Michael M
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Perhaps it is time to provide a bit of history about the N.I. & E Railroad.

In the late 1880s two prospectors, Vic Polek and Micael Drohan, were checking on some promising quartz outcroppings.  They came across some nice level ground and decided to make camp after a long day.  While there was no available water there was sufficient grass, being late Spring, for both horses and mules.  There was also a good supply of wood for a campfire.  After seeing to the animals they cooked their supper and relaxed under a star-filled sky.

Deciding that they were in the right area for a substantial find they figured that a little celebrating was in order.  Vic pulled out a bottle of 'Ole Granddad's Fine Whiskey and passed it back and forth.  Vic decide to check on the animals before turning in.  As he rose to his feet Vic lost his balanced and falling backwards tripped over the stones surrounding the campfire and landed butt first.  He quickly rolled out of the fire and patted out the embers on his pants.  Taking assessment of the damages, besides his singed buns, Vic found that he had also broken the bottle of whiskey.  Not one to pass up an opportunity, and not wanting the whiskey go to waste, Vic quickly christened the place Whiskey Flats.

Grading commenced on the Nye, Inyo and Esmeralda Railroad in 1891.  Upon hearing of the news a fellow by the name of Woodie (the last name was possibly 'Green' or 'Greene'---history is a little unclear) decide that Whiskey Flats would be a good place to construct a cantina since there were several mines in the area along with some good borax deposits, and those miners could get awfully thirsty along with the railroad crews. 

Shortly afterward a fellow only known as 'MJ' showed up with some money in his pockets.  He quickly purchased several borax claims thinking that with the new railroad being constructed that shipping costs would be greatly reduced.  MJ figured that his mining company needed a proper office and constructed a modest building next to Woodie's Cantina.  Besides, he thought, what better place to hear about potential new strikes than from liquored-up prospectors.

And the rest, as they say, is history.

Michael M
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Okay, I'm gonna post two photos of the inner workins of the rail truck.  The motor is up front and will be covered by a hood.  The middle part where the two nuts are is the drivers cab, and the rear where the mess is will be covered with the cargo box.  I used a 3.7v LiPo battery with a voltage booster kicking it up to 4.5v.  Top speed is a wopping 5mph!!!





Yes, I know.  Messy work area.  I'm using the nuts as weights in the truck.  I've picked up a variety of nuts at Home Depot that I use as weights when gluing parts together.

The original cargo box had some mishaps so I'm working on a new one.  I'll still use the old one as storage in the new yard.

Waiting on the FlySky RC equipment.  Went over budget by about $10, but still worth it.

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You can still pour molten lead into the nuts for more weight.Jose.

Last edited on Mon Aug 14th, 2017 10:34 am by pipopak

Michael M
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Great idea!  I never thought of that.  I was just going to use some short bolts, but lead would provide much more weight.  Thanks! :2t:

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The story is that the rail truck derailed and the cargo box suffered damage.  The shop foreman decided it would be easier to make a new one rather than trying to fix the old damaged one.  Here is the old cargo box from the rail truck.  The glue I was using made the styrene warp.  I made a small platform to set the old cargo box on and made it a storage shed.  A new cargo box was made for the rail truck.


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Look what showed up in the mail!



Price was $21.27 with free shipping.  Still waiting on battery & charger, ESC, and some connectors.  This will go into my On30 shay after I make some modifications for 35n2 scale.

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



N  I  C  E  !  :cool:

I was really pleased with the comfortable design when mine came.

Nice smooth mechanical operation of the throttle control as well.



:moose:


Si.



Just as an extra thought Michael.


Be careful of any 'static build up' when working on the microchip stuff.

If you wear polyester clothes, scuff around on carpet or laminate flooring ...

... people aren't always aware of just how much of a static-charge they can have.


With bad luck & touching circuit-boards in the wrong place ...

... the 1000s of Volts in any static-charge, can easily fry any microchip electronics.


Touching a metal water pipe before working on stuff, is a good precaution.



:brill:



Albert.

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"Be careful of any 'static build up' when working on the microchip stuff."


Something to live by.


Is that like 'been there, done that' type of thing?

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" Is that like 'been there, done that' type of thing? "



Hi Michael :wave:



I don't think I have ever been there or done that. L:

But I do fondle a lot of water pipes, before grabbing my microchips. :P



Bring back vacuum-tubes, is what I say ! :old dude:

Never used to be a problem with those suckers !!

They'd just FRY YOU if you weren't carefull. :shocked: :w:



:thumb:



Si.

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I was thinking that it would be nice to have a connection with the outside world.  I found a Lionel G gauge side-door caboose stuck away in a box that is suppose to be 1:32 scale.  I just can't bring myself to say 'G scale' because it seems that 'G' is all over the map when it comes to scale.  Anyway, I'm thinking of repainting the caboose and laying a few feet of 45mm track to represent an outside connection.

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Though I posted this before but the rail truck is basically done.  The hood needs to be glued down, and the cargo box will remain loose so I can access the RC electronics.



Since it really crawls (about a foot every 3 minutes) I hope I don't get bored waiting for it to get somewhere.


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In digging through some boxes of train stuff (there always seems to be an endless supply of boxes) I ran across a flatcar I had built some time ago.  It's set up for l&p couplers, but I can convert that to knuckle couplers with no problem.  And, I really needed a flatcar for my expanding operations.




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Most of my energy has been going to getting the Titus Canyon section done.



It'll be nice to actually have a 'main line' that goes some place.  This section is 42" by 42" and will be mostly scenery.  There will be one short spur and a loading platform.


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Hi Michael :wave:



That looks AWESOME ! :)


I get a sense of the proposed scenery ...

... from your poly. peaks & front cut-out. :mex:


I'm very envious. :f:

I keep thinking about a 4x2 starter board for M.M.M.

We'll see . . . :slow:


That 'main line' could take your 'quantum railtruck' most of the morning ! ;)



:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:



Si.

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Si,

You really should consider getting some small layout running.  Of course I started with a 26" by 30" layout and look what happened to me!  Once I get the San Miguel yard and Whiskey Flats attached to Titus Canyon I'll have about 10 feet of mainline.


The tallest point measure about 18 inches, or over 50 scale feet in 1/35.  I wanted to create a sense of height that is often difficult to do on an indoor model railroad.  It's already been rained on twice due to thunderstorms.  Holding up just fine so far.  I figure I could just tie off the controller for the rail truck since it will probably take about 15 minutes to travel the 5 feet of track.




I'm developing a fondness for water tank cars.  I have a small one, 375 gallons, that is getting re-built for my railroad.

I found a photo of a water car on the 'Baby Gauge' (two-footer) in Death valley.

https://thedesertfog.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/bgr-4.jpg


The McCloud River Railroad had a number of water cars mostly wood ones.  Unfortunately they burned most of them.

http://www.trainweb.org/mccloudrails/Equipment/WaterCars.html


I've been computing the amount of water my tank cars can hold and adding that info to the sides of the car.  Just seems a little more realistic.  I've also been working on an equipment roster spreadsheet so I can keep track of which numbers have already been assigned.

W C Greene
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...And then there's this water car:

The Gilpin Tram's car...#300 which became #301 when it was acquired by the Mogollon Railway then the SCPA&M. She was in a wreck and needed that large patch on the side.

Woodie

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Woodie,

I was thinking of building a barrel water car like the two-footer 'Baby Gauge' in Death Valley.  A short length of PVC pipe could serve as the form, with boards running lengthwise.  The 'hatch' could be made out of a curved piece of brass with a handle.  I was looking at some of San Juan's On30 trucks that might work nicely.

I haven't forgotten about WSLC's #5 'coffin car'.  A block of beveled wood would work as a form, covered with cookie aluminum and riveted.

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Making progress

Last edited on Thu Sep 14th, 2017 07:27 am by Michael M

Michael M
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Railway Recollections makes some On18 stuff;  http://www.railway-recollections.com/


http://www.ebay.com/itm/On18-14-foot-Coffin-Tank-Car-Kit-2-pack-By-Railway-Recollections-not-On30/172496962112?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Michael M
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Been busy working on the Titus Canyon section along with the San Miguel yard.

The Bachmann Shay is still waiting for me to make some modifications and add RC.  I'll be adding a new cab which means I'll need to do some rivets.  Ran across this tool that is used for removing the pins in a wrist watch band.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/3Pcs-Set-Watch-Band-Strap-Removal-Link-Pins-Holder-Punch-Hammer-Repair-Tools-/182737977821?hash=item2a8c0841dd:g:NRAAAOSw2gxY0ULy


Thought it might work for making rivets.

Michael M
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One problem with building outside---leaves!


oztrainz
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Hi Michael, Now all you need is a leaf-plough.

And if you can make a good enough rotary job you can have instant mulch for the garden :bg: 

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Been working the the borax unloading facility, commonly called 'The Dump', at San Miguel yard.  'The Cage' holds the ore car and rotates 135 degrees to empty the contents.  The platform is attached to a threaded pipe so that it can rotate with a with a stop underneath so that it can only rotate 135 degrees.

I considered for a brief moment to motorize the thing but that would mean installing gears, a battery, and wiring the thing up.  And I just didn't have it in me to tackle something like that.  Maybe I'll revisit the idea later.  For now it will be activated by a simple push-pull rod.



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John,

I was thinking of an engine or car with a big fan on the front that could blow the leaves out of the way.


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Hi Micjhael,
Wot like one of those Canadian jet powered snow blowers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AgfPXH0I2I 
and a cool if noisy sound effects as well :bg:

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Hi Michael :wave:



Hey ! ... Looks fantastic !! :thumb:

I just love that California Sunshine. :!:

Can you bottle it & send some over here ? L:



The leaves are a tad over scale, but I kinda like 'em ! :P  ;)



What I do wanna know is ...

... what the hell is going on with your photos these days ?


You used to get 'em up good & fine ...

... now we gotta look at 50% WHITE ! :cool: Raybans essential !!



What's going on ? ???

I've NEVER seen photos Posted like that.

You must have found a uniquely special method ! :shocked:



:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:



Si.

Michael M
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Si,

I got a new digital camera and haven't quite figured out how everything works.  The photos have been too large in size for the site so I've had to play with the images to get them posted.

I'm somewhat 'technology challenged' when it comes to all of this kind of stuff.  Heck, I consider myself lucky to be able to answer a call on my cell phone.

Michael M
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I got some of these watch band link pin removal tools off of fleaBay thinking they might be good for making rivets.  They came in 3 sizes; 0.8mm, 0.9mm, and 1.0mm.  Total length is about 53mm.

Haven't had a chance to try them out yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-3Pcs-Set-Watch-Band-Strap-Removal-Link-Pins-Holder-Punch-Hammer-Repair-Tools/142510967095?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Michael M
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Found these cowboy hat silver pendants that measure about 13mm by 20mm:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cowboy-Hat-Wholesale-Western-Silver-Plated-Charm-Pendants-12PCs-/263018247452?epid=2242624700&hash=item3d3d1bf51c:g:dQUAAOSwaeRZMsdd

Look like they will work fine for 1/35 scale figures after cutting off the loop.

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Finally starting to get rail down on the Titus Canyon section.

Michael M
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looking good

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Tracks in the dirt - I like the look of that.

Regards,    Michael

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I just picked up one of these 5" automatic center pin punch spring loaded for only two bucks I figured it wasn't a bad deal.  Been kinda playing with it and it looks like it just might be good for making rivets.  Now to pull out some styrene and brass and really see what I can do.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Automatic-Center-Pin-Punch-Strike-Spring-Loaded-Marking-Starting-Holes-Tool/282619668416?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

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Michael

As these are built to mark steel, they will punch through
styrene and brass, I use one for layout on steel and thick brass sheet.

Ken
GWN

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Ken,

I've used it a little on some scrap styrene and it seems to work okay as long as I don't get too energetic with the hammer.  It makes a decent dimple on some 0.5mm styrene.  I did whack it real good a few times and it did go through the styrene so a light touch is in order.  Haven't tried it on brass yet.

I'll have to play with it a little more before I try it on anything important.

It's just another tool in my growing arsenal.


Law of Annoyance: When working on a project, if you put away a tool that you're certain you're finished with, you will need it instantly.

http://www.anvari.org/fortune/Laws/833_law-of-annoyance-when-working-on-a-project-if-you-put-away-a-tool-that-youre-certain-youre-finished-with-you-will-need-it-instantly.html

Last edited on Tue Oct 17th, 2017 08:44 am by Michael M

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Michael

If you have read any of the Terry Patchett books, you will come across mention of the "Goddess Annoya" who is responsible for jamming drawers, losing tools and the dropping of the last piece of detail that you need to finish a project. She has been busy with me, on my sixth! set of boxcar door's for a model I'am working on.

Have fun with the punch.

Ken

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Goddess Anoia --- In Terry Pratchett's Discworld, Anoia is the minor goddess of Things That Stick in Drawers. She is praised by rattling a drawer and crying "How can it close on the damned thing but not open with it? Who bought this? Do we ever use it?" She also eats corkscrews and is responsible for Things Down The Backs of Sofa.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/68wfsp/have_you_ever_heard_of_the_goddess_anoia/

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The NI&E Railroad recently installed the patented Greene Car Block on the Titus Canyon spur to keep cars from rolling down and fouling the main line.  When a car is spotted on the spur the brakes are set and the bar from the Greene Car Block is brought down to hold the car in place before the engine uncouples.  This operation is commonly known as 'throwing the Greenie'.




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I have a number of these HO Plymouths.  The cab is oversize for HO and is closer to O scale.  One of them, a smooth runner, was converted to On30.  The others all sound like coffee grinders, and have a high starting voltage.  I plan on banging out the original motor and replacing it with one of those micro geared motors with a 60:1 ratio.  I also have a 1/72 scale RC tank on the way (only $11) that I'll yank out the electrical and install it in the Plymouth.  I think I'll keep the hood and build a new open-air cab.


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W C Greene
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Damn cool! I love the look and the PVC pipe benchwork. I may steal, er...use that idea.

Woodie

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" The patented Greene Car Block "



Hi Michael :mex:



Why is the patented Greene Car Block ... RED ? L:

Just kiddin' !! ;)

Health & Safety ... right ? ! :Salute:



Lookin' good Michael.

The lil' trestle looks interesting.

The Quantum Railtruck is gonna luv that new stretch of mainline ! :shocked: :slow:



:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:



Si.

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I'm using 3/4" Schedule 40 (the thick stuff) PVC. It's pretty cheap, and easy to work with.  I mount a board at each end of each section underneath, then take short pieces of wood and drill a hole to accept the pipe.  These are attached to the boards underneath.  So each pipe fits into its' corresponding hole.  I do drill in a screw to hold the PVC pipe in.  I also anchor some of the legs to the bricks, and drive in some old pipe, to hold everything steady and to keep it from flying off in high winds.

You may want to add some cross bracing just to steady the layout.  Just drill a small hole to accept bolts at each end of a piece of pipe and attach where needed.

I put a brick under each leg so the pipes don't sink into the ground.  Never have to worry about wooden legs rotting.  PVC can be painted using a rattle can if you don't care for the white.  I may paint the legs black so they don't stand out.

I used the same method for my Lionel layout except I used 1" PVC.

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Morning at San Miguel Yard






Michael M
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I like the San Miguel yard, lots of possibilities in a small area.

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Yeah ... The new N.I.& E.R.R. yard looks like an interesting switcher. :thumb:



:mex:



Si.

W C Greene
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Is that a dumper that I see? Way cool! Makes me think that I may need another thing like that myself.

Woodie

The old rotary from the Mogollon Railway. We had fun with that operation!

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Yes, that is a dumper you see.  This one is manually operated and rotates about 135 degrees.  There is a slide bolt that locks the handle in the upright position.  An ore car is spotted, the bolt release, and push down on the handle to rotate the dump.  There's a bucket underneath to collect the borax.

With the yard in I can at least operate a push-pull service to the tipple and back.  Just seems more realistic to use real loads.  Gotta make the N.I.&E. earn its' keep.

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Bridge at Titus Canyon.  In the background you might be able to see some metal objects.  These are pieces of mining machinery that were washed down the canyon from a flash flood.  The area doesn't receive much precipitation, when it does rain it can turn the numerous canyons into raging rivers.


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Hi Michael :wave:



Very nice indeed !

I've been looking forward to a canyon closey !!



Was some of that mining-machinery found flattened in the Home Depot parking lot ? ;)



:mex::mex::mex::mex::mex:



Si.



Nice work on the turntable decking as well. :)

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Some of the pieces of 'mining machinery' were found in parking lots like Home Depot.  The gear pieces came from repaired ratchets.  I have a couple of small bottles that the metal pieces are dropped into.  The bottles are filled with water and some common salt to help rust up the pieces.  More will get added later.


Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



I remember your Home Depot parking lot materials source ! :cool:

Yippeee !! ... Free scrap-iron. :rah:

Those expensive 'super detail' companies HATE people like you & I. :f:



Funny you should mention the salt-bottle ...

... I have one as well. :)



Just out of interest.

Something a custom-car dude I know told me once ...

... about 'de-rusting' small parts, which I'd NEVER heard of before.

Use diluted Black Treacle !

It works !!



Not that there ever seems a need for DE-RUSTING on Freerails ! ;)



:pimp:



Si.

Michael M
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Rusty and crusty is the only way to go!

Never heard of Black Treacle before.  I read where it is often used in British cooking.  Not clear on how it can de-rust parts, but I'll take your word for it.

I did find that baking soda when combined with water and allowed to dry makes a nice white crusty look like dried salt deposits.  My next section will have some salt pans that are being mined.

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Just as an added note,not trying to hijack the topic.In Australia it's called mollasses,items left to soak in the solution of mollasses and water come out very clean  and rust (corrosion) free.Used by many car restorers......Peter

Nortonville Phil
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Michael,
I just discovered your thread. Very interesting. Nice work.
Phil Randall

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Phil,

Glad you found this thread.  Feel free to post any comments, suggestions, or ideas.


Woke this morning to light rain.  Of course the layout wasn't covered... too early in the season for rain.  So instead of getting some work done on it, I had to cover up everything.

I use the picnic table plastic covers along with some inexpensive clamps.  I get this stuff at the local dollar discount store.

At least I get to see how everything hold up under damp conditions.

Michael M
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Layout under cover


Helmut
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You were obviously inspired by that artist "Christo" of wrapping-up fame.

W C Greene
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My buddy Pam is standing in front of a covered Mogollon Railway:

And here is the Old Mogollon under wraps and 4" of snow!

You need to be prepared, for both rain & snow and Pam!

Woodie

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Woodie,

Didn't you have a snow plow for the Mogollon?  Trying to clear the tracks could have interesting.


Don't have to worry about snow just a little hail now and then.

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Yep, a snow plow...Gilpin Tramway's little plow. It needed plenty of weight to buck some snow, rail was used but I found these old motors.

The blade was canted sideways and off-center. This thing was used on snow 4 or 5 feet deep, I'll bet it was a hell of a job!

Woodie

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The morning sun rises on Whiskey Flats.


Last edited on Thu Nov 9th, 2017 07:05 am by Michael M

Michael M
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Picked up a RC 1/72 scale tank.  The guts will go into a HO scale Plymouth.  Planning on keeping the hood, and building a new open-air cab.


Michael M
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Trestle at Titus Canyon.




If you look closely you'll see pieces of mining machinery, boulders, and even some rail that was washed down the canyon after a thunderstorm.

Railroad management had constructed a spur that went further up the canyon to Leadfield.  It was washed out, rebuilt, and washed out again.  After that management decided that instead of the railroad going to the miners, the miners were just going to have to come to the railroad.  It was probably just as well as the town was short-lived and died off by 1927.



I found some really great dirt in the back parking lot of a hospital.  It's a very fine sand that looks close to fine mud, so I scooped up a bucket full.

W C Greene
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Michael, dirt is where you find it! I need to venture down to my old haunt to get some more dirt from the alley behind where I used to live. Your dirt looks great, carry on and get dirty.

Woodie

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I had planned on having a two stall open-air engine house off the turntable but I just couldn't get it to fit.  I resigned myself to just having a one stall, but I wasn't happy about it.  The an idea hit, and I took a scrap piece of 2 x 4 and slapped it against the edge of the layout.  That gave me an extra 1 1/2 inches; just what I needed for an additional track!  I will still be a one stall engine house, but at least I have an additional track to store a loco.


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Got the tank taken apart.  Looks to be fairly simple and straightforward.  The tank is close to the same size as the Plymouth.





I found a different Plymouth in my many boxes which runs much smoother so I may not have to bang out the motor.

W C Greene
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Michael, you could get rid of that humongus weight, it won't be needed for keeping the wheels on the track for power. Then you could "paint" some Pliobond,Goo, or "Bullfrog Snot" on all the wheels so she'd have some good traction.
Think about it.

Woodie

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I tossed the weights on the first conversion, but it was a little too light.  Added some lead weights and painted Goo on the drive wheels.  Just need to let it dry before trying it out again.

Fitting the circuit board on this current conversion should be easy since it is so small.  Want to keep the battery if I can.

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Here a some photos of my borax dump.  It's manually operated; no fancy gears or electric power.










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I went to Walmart last night looking for a Borax Hopper but only found one and it was G scale ;).  I need two like you have to put on a O scale flat car. Will have to check another Walmart I guess.

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Hi Phil. You might check Staples or the Container store. I know I have seen all sizes at Staples. 

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Phil,

I use these small office containers that are about 2.25" by 2.75" and  1.75" high.  They're over in the office supplies section at Walmart.  They're about $0.90.  I make a frame out of styrene, and mount HO scale trucks on it.  I use Kadee couplers, so total cost is about $6.00-7.00 per car.

I wanted my hoppers to be consistent, and they needed to fit into my borax dumper, and this seemed the easiest way.

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Progress on the new RC conversion.  Cab was cut off the Plymouth.  Thinking I'll keep the hood as Plymouths seems to come in all kinds of sizes.



These HO Plymouths seem to be made by several makers like AHM and Tyco.  They're really closer to O scale when you put a ruler next to them.

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Nice to have some decent trackage so I can really run some trains.



Waiting for the switch to be thrown at Whiskey Junction.

Michael M
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I could so much more done if things didn't get in the way like work does.

Rather be out in the back yard with a controller in one hand and a beer in the other and running trains like Engineer Bill.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzvdlE45XEI


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Morning mine run.  Because the construction crew hasn't added the west (left) run around track, Number 9 'Trooper'  pulls the borax cars into Whiskey Flats, uncouples, then proceeds around the loop coming up on the rear of the train.



Here three borax cars are being spotted at the tipple.  The afternoon run will pick up the loaded cars and spot them at 'The Dump' in San Miguel.

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Hi Michael :wave:



:mex::mex::mex::mex::mex:



Time for a cold one in Woodies ! :cb:

The borax can wait !! [toast]



:)



Si.

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A stop in Woodie's sounds good.

The barmaids are really friendly.

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Got the motor off finally.



At the end of the shaft of the geared micro-motor there is a small hole where the shaft of the old motor went through to the worn gear on the underside.  I'll have to enlarge the hole for the new micro-motor shaft and install a new worm gear.  Since the flat plate is brass I'll solder on a mounting plate at a right angle to attach the new motor to.

I should have plenty of room to install the RC parts once I get a new cab knocked together.

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:


Good luck finding a suitable & affordable worm-gear with a 3mm bore !! :old dude:



Romford in the UK has been suggested to me ...

... but I haven't yet looked into that, for my 3mm shaft micro-motors.

Possibly annoyingly costly, in relation to those LOVELY motors at a Buck fifty a pop ! :f:



I looked on eBay for plastic worm-gears with a 3mm bore for AGES ! ... ???

... and basically found NOTHING that would do the job.



I thought about drilling-out the bore on the more commonly available 2mm bore types.

But came to the conclusion that there simply isn't enough spare material there to do this.



5 Einsteins :brill: await the solver of this critical critter connection conundrum ! :shocked:



:mex:



Si.



What kinda TOP SPEED are you going for on this rusty ol' critter Michael ?

Quantum drive ?

Bullet Train ??

Other  .  .  .


;)

Michael M
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Si,

The geared motor I have is 60 rpm, so rocket ship for this critter.  It should give a nice slow speed but faster than a crawl.  I have some plastic worm gears that I might be able to drill out a larger bore.  I did find a couple of brass worm gears that I can give a try if necessary.

Anywho I'm committed now so I'll have to figure out something.

Larry G
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Michael,

For future projects, a slow/smooth running, radio controlled, track powered, sound equipped, 4 wheel Model power loco can be had from Trainworld for just $45. Check it out. Larry G

Michael M
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Larry,

Is this what you're talking about: https://www.trainworld.com/manufacturers/model-power/model-power-966711-ddt-plymouth-lndustrial-diesel-u-p-dcc-with-sound-remote/

I did not know this was available.  I'll have to look into this.  Thanks!

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Mine cars moving down the street in Whiskey Flats.  In the background a rare glimpse of rail truck 59.  Due to be retired soon since she never did track well after that last wreck.

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Number 9 spotting a couple of empty borax cars in the San Miguel yard.

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I needed something to keep uncoupling tools and screwdrivers handy without laying them on top of the layout.  Knocked together a small box from scrap wood.  Decided to get fancy and put up the name of the town along with the railroad name.  I'll have to do this at other areas around the layout so that I can remember what I named everything.

Larry G
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Yup, that is the loco I was talking about. I bought one and it runs nice and slow. The track power remote control also works great. If you have two of these locos they are each controlled individually. Much like DCC but without all the complications. The sounds are also very good, except the diesel horn. The horn belongs on a much larger locomotive. Once I convert my loco to 1/2" scale the horn will sound ridicules on a small 15" gauge Dinky. So I will only use the very nice bell to warn people of the trains approach.

Larry G


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Larry,

Since you already have one of those Model Power Plymouths can you see any reason why it couldn't be modified to run off a battery?  Just thinking that it should be relatively easy to install a 7.4v Li-Po battery and do away with track power all together.  Might be an easy way for others to switch over to BPRC without a lot of fancy RC equipment?

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Si. wrote: Hi Michael :wave:


Good luck finding a suitable & affordable worm-gear with a 3mm bore !! :old dude:



Romford in the UK has been suggested to me ...

... but I haven't yet looked into that, for my 3mm shaft micro-motors.

Possibly annoyingly costly, in relation to those LOVELY motors at a Buck fifty a pop ! :f:



I looked on eBay for plastic worm-gears with a 3mm bore for AGES ! ... ???

... and basically found NOTHING that would do the job.



I thought about drilling-out the bore on the more commonly available 2mm bore types.

But came to the conclusion that there simply isn't enough spare material there to do this.



5 Einsteins :brill: await the solver of this critical critter connection conundrum ! :shocked:



:mex:



Si.



What kinda TOP SPEED are you going for on this rusty ol' critter Michael ?

Quantum drive ?

Bullet Train ??

Other  .  .  .


;)



Si,

I think I found a simple and affordable answer to 3mm worm gear.  Poking around Home Depot's nut & bolt aisle I was rummaging through the drawers where they keep all the specialized stuff and I found some screws that look like they'll work.  I got some socket set screws 1/4 in -20 x 7/16 in.  One end of the screw is drilled down about 1/3 of the way and fits nicely on the geared motor shaft.  Several drops of CA to secure it.   Two set screws to a package for some $0.90.  Now if work will leave me alone I'll test it out in the next few days.

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I finally got around to opening my track powered radio controlled diesel. Looks like plenty of room for a battery. Space above and on the sides.

I will stick with track power since I know little to nothing about electronics. Besides, the reason I bought the loco in the first place was the low price and R_T_R right out of the box. Of course, I still need to build a 1/2" scale body shell.

Larry G

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Hi Michael :wave:



EUREKA ! :shocked:

It's the 'out of the box' thinkers, like yourself, that make it all worth it ! :thumb:


:doh:


Dunno why I never thought of using coarse screw threads. :dope:

I have tons of various old Imperial coarse threaded, 'this & that'.

I'll have to have a rummage around ! :cool:



:brill::brill::brill::brill::brill:



Si.

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Larry,

Thanks for the info.  I'll have to give one a try.

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Here's a simple operation for loading a freight car: http://trn.trains.com/railroads/railroad-history/2010/07/virginia-and-truckee

Train simply stops, then a truck backs up to load/unload freight.  Very simple operation.

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Si,

I tested it out on my DDT Plymouth and it seems to work.  I know that the set screws come in various sizes and lengths so it's just a matter of finding the right one that works.

I wasn't looking for the set screws; I just stumbled across them.  Who knew?

Michael M
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Been trying to work on a little history for the N.I.&E.  The southeast end at San Miguel interchanges with the Tonopah & Tidewater (standard gauge).

Benton on the Slim Princess (ex-Carson & Colorado) was in use until 1942 so that fits in with my timeline of 1937.

Found a photo of Benton circa 1880-1890: https://library.unr.edu/DigiColl/Item/spphotos/3608

Also found a nice photo of SP 18 with the Sierra Nevada Mountains as a backdrop: http://www.owensvalleyhistory.com/carson_n_colorado/carson_colorado_rr_01_sml.jpg

A whaleback tender would make an interesting project.  I believe car 61 is a water car: http://www.spnghs.org/archive/picture.php?/171

No date on this photo but looks like it could be from the old Mogollon Railway with horses and early autos: http://carsoncolorado.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Greed.jpg

I think the western terminus of the N.I.& E. will be at a town I'm planning on calling Sundance, with a branch to Benton to interchange with Southern Pacific's narrow gauge, and maybe another branch up the east side of the White Mountains.  Not sure what for; maybe a little mining.  I would like to model some of the Bristlecone Pine trees.

Michael M
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Workbench: Controlled Chaos (well, sort of).


Larry G
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Interesting that you have decided to name one of your towns "Sundance". Sundance Wyoming (Sundance Kid???) is only around 70 miles from my place. Nice little town along I-90.  

Larry G

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Michael, not to worry, there are mines at Bristlecone National Monument.  They are drift mines, holes into the sides of the hills, so they are easy to model.  I don't know that they were very successful as they don't go very far, and honestly I don't recall what they were looking for.  But, I would say that you are good to go combining mining in the Whites and bristlecones.  I look forward to seeing your model trees, they are among some of the most beautiful (in my opinion) trees in the world.  You can find images of the Mexican Mine here.
https://modernhiker.com/hike/mexican-mine/

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The name 'Sundance' just seems to have that western flavor to it.

Some town names can get carried away.  They may sound cute at first but a whole layout with 'cute' names I think would get old after awhile.


Placerville CA use to be called 'Hangtown'.

Skidoo CA was originally called '23 Skidoo' was a slang phrase around the early 1900s meaning basically to 'get while the getting is good.'  When the post office set up shop in '23 Skidoo' they insisted that the '23' be dropped since a town name cannot have a number in it.

Tobar NV was created when an enterprising saloon owner put up a sign to direct the construction crews on the Western Pacific to his business.  The sign simply read "To Bar", which was later morphed into 'Tobar'.

My own Whiskey Flats was borrowed from the founding of Virginia City.  As the story goes a miner dropped and broke a bottle of Old Ginney whiskey, and not wanting to pass up an opportunity, he quickly named the place Virginny, which later became Virginia City.

If you remember the movie Paint Your Wagon (1969) with Lee Marvin the story centered around a town called 'No Name City'.  Okay, humorous, but could get tiring after awhile.

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New RC critter under construction.


Michael M
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Steve,

Thanks for that link.  Now I can start thinking about maybe a short branch line up the east side of the White Mountains.  Maybe with a couple of switchbacks.  Might even make it a separate railroad company so that I can have some interchange traffic.

The possibilities...

Michael M
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Weather Forecast:

Windy

with gusts from 50 to 80 mph!



Glad I anchored down that layout.

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Titus Canyon Trestle.

Afternoon freight heading home to San Miguel.

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



A    T    M    O    S    P    H    E    R    I    C



Awesome photo of the afternoon freight !

The B&W looks real nice.



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:



Si.

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The Darjeeling Limited (2007)

The train is lost: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWc7Ap6wOAo

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Just got a Mack 1918 AC Bulldog Flatbed 1/32 scale.  I'll replace the plastic bed with one made from strip wood and give it a new paint job and weathering.  Plan on using it on my surface salt mining operation.

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Wow...who makes that neat Mack? I feel the need...

Woodie

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Ertl makes it.  1/32 scale, but close enough for 1/35.  Suppose to be a bank, but once I get done modifying it no one will be able to tell.


It'll be used to haul salt from the flats (next addition) to a plant for loading into privately-owned modified boxcars.  Then a trip to San Miguel where the salt will get cleaned, bagged, and shipping out on the Tonopah & Tidewater.

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Thanks! Now, to find one...

Woodie

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Got mine off eBay for about $15 including postage.  Need to shop around a little as some are asking top dollar.

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New Ertel Mack Bulldog getting shown off at Whiskey Flats.  It'll get a new bed made from strip wood and re-lettered for Si's Salt.


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I was impressed with Steven's tent that he constructed (http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7538&forum_id=4&page=4) so I set out to make one of my own.  Smaller in size.  Still want to add some furniture inside like a bed and table.

Not sure where it will end up yet.

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Looks good,I'm about to make some as well(inspired by Steves saloon).What did you use for the canvas?.......Peter

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Wow Michael, I'm flattered.  Looks like you nailed it.  :glad: Can't wait to see the furniture.  Peter, I used a heavy duty paper napkin/paper towel to make mine.  Gives it that heavy canvas look.  I would like to see how they all turn out.

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I used one of those dryer fabric sheets for the canvas.  I hand washed the sheet to get the folds out, along with the fabric stuff.  Just laid it down on the counter to dry.

Framework and floor was just some spare stripwood I had laying around.  A couple of coats of acrylic paint and I'm done.  Really didn't cost anything.

Si.
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" Looks like you nailed it."



:old dude: What about the NAIL-HOLZ ? ;)



Top tents ! Michael & Steven !!



:mex:



Si.

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Wandering around the craft and floral aisles at Wal-Mart I found some chain and some 18 gauge wire that is very soft and flexible.



While not the right color for the chain it can easily be painted.  And, at six feet for a buck seems just too good a deal to pass up.  Not sure what to do with the wire, but I'm sure I'll find some use for it.

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Love the tent/house. Hard to imagine folks living in those in Nevada where it is either way too hot, or freezing cold.

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The weather isn't always bad out in the desert.

The weather in Bodie, CA is pretty nice during the summer even though you are at about 8300 foot elevation.

You even get some nice weather in the spring and fall in Death Valley.  Of course it depends just where you are;  the mountains can be a little chilly especially if it's windy, and the desert floor can be a little on the warm side in the afternoon.

Still, I wouldn't want to be in a tent during winter, and I doubt a tent would provide much relief during the middle of summer.  I've done my share of camping in the past...now I want my comforts.

Last edited on Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 09:31 am by Michael M

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New motive power, #20, out on a test run:





The cover for the water tank, which carries all the electronics, hasn't been attached to the frame yet.

Need to make some adjustments, but it's getting there.

Si.
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Hi Michael :mex:



Pretty darn funky junk sonny ! :old dude:

( & that ol' dude knows a classy critter when he sees one !! )



You're gonna have to let us in on the N.I.& E.R.R. shops 'secret' R.C. install details.

That water-tank looks to be all wiring & not much H2O !! :shocked:



I see you have a new water-tower in the background, which we haven't seen before as well. ???

Nice lookin' structure. :thumb:

( see ... I am paying attention & learning ! ) ;)



Really like your vintage B&W glass-plate from a while back, very authentic.





And talkin' of funky tankcars, that one on the back of the train, we aint seen much of either. L:



You been busy ! :cool:



:mex: :mex: :mex::mex: :mex:



Si.

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Si,

How nice of you to notice.

Yes, San Miguel yard got a new water tank.  Made it from a 3" PVC coupling.  Glued stripwood all around, flat roof, legs are 1/4" wood.  All stuff I had laying around.

The short water car with the up-right tank was made from a bottle cap, and mounted on a single-truck shorty flat car.

I had to raise the tank on the car that goes with the Plymouth by a 1/4".  No biggie.  Got all the electronics inside (FlySky receiver, 7.4v LiPo battery, and ESC).

Had to invent a new rule to justify why some locos are hauling water cars around wherever they go.  Rule 22:  All trains operating outside of yard limits must have a water car in the consist.  If a loco broke down out in the desert it could be a dire situation for crew and passengers, if any, if the trains didn't have any water.

I'll try to remember to take some more photos in the next day or two.

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I made a form for the water car that carries the electronics for the Plymouth.  The form was made from 3/4" quarter-round moulding with a 1/4" piece of wood sandwiched in between.  This gave a width of 1 3/4", or about 5'3" in 1/35 scale.  For height I just glued some 1/4" pieces to the bottom.  A little sanding to smooth everything out.

I used some thin styrene for the top and ends.  Then took some very thin styrene, made rivet impressions, and glued that on top of the first styrene layer.



I think the quarter-round moulding cost about .65 cents a foot.  A few feet will give you plenty to fool around with.



I've been wandering around the area where they keep all the wood mouldings at Home Depot looking for anything that might be useful.  I did find one moulding that should give me a wagon-top type roof like the B&O had on some of their boxcars.

Larry G
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Michael, using wood moldings to build forms is a good idea, I'll keep this in mind for future projects, thanks.
Larry Gant

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Photos












Steven B
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Yes, I agree, a very good idea indeed!  Thanks Michael.:!:

Michael M
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There's one thing you might want to do if using a block of wood as a form...drill a hole or two into the wood block.  If your styrene shell sticks you can push it out from underneath.

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Okay, here's my next conversion project: Tyco 0-4-0 Shifter.



The engine runs good so I'll leave the motor alone.  While I'm waiting on the RC parts to arrive I'm starting construction on a new tender to carry all the electronics.  I've been looking at SPNG whaleback tenders and plan on making something similar.  I'll get a new open air cab.  Not sure what I'll do about the boiler.

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Shell for new whaleback tender.  Plenty of room inside for electronics.


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Construction continues...pushing West.

This is the beginning of the Salt Flats section.





There is more framework to add.  There will be a passing track with a few spurs to ore tipples and a salt works. 

Si.
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:shocked: - ! ! - HOLY REAL ESTATE - ! ! - :shocked:



Hi Michael :mex:



You & the Misses gotta be pretty damn busy ...

... with all those hammer swingin' Chinamen to feed !



It must be very cramped in the R.R. construction crew tent.

That bean-stew as well   .   .   .   :f:


:mex::cb::moose::old dude::P
:thumb::old dude:(_!_):cb::mex:
:cb::pimp::old dude::thumb:
:y::moose::mex::bg::cb:





Spare no expense Michael ...

... the Tighta$$ Canyon division ROCKS ! :P



:pimp:



Si.

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Si,

I picked up a bunch of brass track (nobody wants brass rail) so I figured I'd put it to use.

I'm even making my own ties to give handlaying a try.

I've been wanting to incorporate some alkali scenery kinda like Duane's SPNG.

Michael M
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Roundhouse Gang Swap Meet at the Santa Fe Station in San Bernardino.







Picked up some brass rail, some switches, a HO fuel tank, and a crane car.  Brass rail is cheap (nobody wants it) and I think it's easier to solder.  The rest of the stuff is for parts and scratch building.

Si.
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:bg: ! ... A CRANE ... ! :bg:



:java::thumb:



Si.

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Si,

Yes, A CRANE!

I remembered your posts about building your own crane, and so I've been on the lookout for something I could use.  Sure, it's HO scale, but it still has its hook and rigging.  The car frame can still be used although probably widen a little, along with some kind of new cab.  Would probably replace the six-wheel trucks with four-wheeled ones.  But, for five bucks how could I go wrong?





I also like the Bachmann Bobber caboose.  The frame works out nicely for a small four-wheeled car.  Get the one with metal wheels...it rolls better.  This one only cost me two bucks. 

One just needs to look outside their chosen scale.

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Michael

The trouble I have with swap sales, is I usually end up with yet! more stuff for projects:bang:. Calgary has a swap sale going on this weekend. I hope I come home empty handed?.

Ken
GWN

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Ken,

Where's the fun in that coming home empty handed? :bg:

I think most of us have way more 'stuff' than we can ever use.  I know I have a long list of projects and 'stuff' to go with it.  I think we're all part pack rat.  Besides, when the urge strikes to start a new project it's nice to have everything you need on hand.

I've been picking up small plastic storage bins in a hopeless attempt to get myself organized.

I did talk with a few people at the swap meet about 1/35 scale and FreeRails.  Just spreading the good word.  Maybe we'll get a few new members?


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My attempt at making tumbleweeds according to elminero67 recipe:http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=8011&forum_id=17&highlight=tumbleweeds

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Making progress on the extension.

W C Greene
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Howdy Michael, the 3/16 tie material is OK, the ties "should be" probably 5" by 5' in scale but whatever you like is fine. I use my bandsaw to cut tie strip from sheets but also use a balsa stripper when I don't feel like messing with the saw. Cutting to length...if cutting boards with the stripper, I cut the sheets into tie length pieces and then cut the ties. If cutting long strips, I bundle the strips together wrapped in masking tape and cut them at one time with the bandsaw. Either way works the same anyway.

Woodie

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Thanks Woodie,

3/16" might be a tad large, scaling out to about 6.75", but 1/8" just seemed a little too small to me.  The ties will get buried in dirt and sand so shouldn't be too noticeable.  If I'm not happy with the results I'll give a smaller size a try. 

Steven B
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That switch looks pretty nice. :thumb:

Michael M
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Found a handy scale conversion calculator at: http://webpages.charter.net/sinkwich/sdventure/html/sd_scalecalc2.htm

Can be used for any scale.

Ken C
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Michael

Book marked it, very handy. Did get a chuckle! out of the
last line on the web page though!.

Michael M
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"Reproduction strictly prohibited, blah, blah, blah, like you are going to listen."

Last edited on Thu Mar 1st, 2018 09:40 pm by Michael M

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Doing a little track laying.





I think the ties are too thick.  I used 3/16" basswood; think I'll try some 1/8".


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Howdy Michael, thick ties? That's whatcha got ballast & dirt for! They look alright to me. However, I would have rail joints staggered, not right across from each other...especially on curves.

Woodie

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Woodie,

Thanks for reminding me about staggering the joints...I'll trim one back.

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Here's my turnout control.  Picked up some mini toggle switches off eBay something like 5 for a buck or so.  Drilled a hole in a piece of wood big enough to accept the toggle switch, took a 1/4" thick of plywood and drilled a hole to mount the toggle switch on.  A short piece of brass tube, crimped at top with a hole drilled in it for the control rod, and gets glued onto the toggle.

Hopefully the photos explain it better.






The control gets mounted to the front of the layout, with the control rod going through some styrene tubing to the stub switch.

elminero67
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I like the tender, good job on the handrails.

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Switch control installed.  Just need to hook up the control wire.

Michael M
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Framework finally up for housing the rotary dump.





The workers will be happy to be out from under the hot summer sun, and protected from the occasional strong winds.

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San Miguel yard looking north.  Rotary dump on the left.

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A rotary dump, I think it's great when modelers go for something different. Your layout is really coming together nicely.. Larry G

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I agree, the rotary dump will be a great addition. I eagerly await the next issue.

Mack

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The rotary dump is a manually operated affair.  Making it a remote control automated affair seemed like way too much work.  You can see the cage that holds the cars in the photos, and ore is dumped into a bucket underneath.  It actually works much better than I expected.


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Manual or automatic ... it is a great idea.
Mack

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Actually, the rotary dump is kinda simple.  I used PVC fittings; 2 threaded female connectors, and 2 threaded male connectors.  I glued the male connectors onto a short length of PVC pipe, adjusted for the length of the dump bridge, and glued it onto the bottom of the bridge.  I threaded on the 2 female connectors at each end rather loosely and glued those onto the underside of the layout.  The bridge should rotate freely.  A handle made from PVC glued to the underside of the bridge and a simple throw bolt to lock it into the upright position.

Cheap, simple, and no mechanics to break down.

Si.
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:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:



Hi Michael :wave:



The guys in the big-hats are gonna LOVE that shade ! :cool:

Great low-angle pic. of the yard !!


REAL sky ... & 'FlySky' ! ;)





That new tank looks like the one from the train swap-meet.

Goes nice with the water-tower. :thumb:



:)



Si.

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Yes, that silver tank on the left is from the swap meet.  It's HO scale but seems to fit pretty good.  Need to change a few things to make it 1/35 scale, but I tacked it down temporarily until I can get a round tuit.

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Little story I found about life in a mining town:


"Callahan was drinking in front of Jack Murphy's Saloon one night and getting tired of Joe Lee's tirade.

Callahan hit Lee square in the face with the butt end of his gun.

Lee staggered for a minute and, reaching for the gun under the bar, he shot Callahan square in the abdomen, and Callahan dropped to the floor mortally wounded.

There was a free for all fight with guns popping every place until some far-sighted miner shot the lights out."


Nightlife in Lundy, eastern Sierra mining town.

The Story of Early Mono County
           Ella M. Cain

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Ah, Lundy... Hi east slope town. Not at all refined like Aurora. ;)

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Hmmmm ... Life was not that much different than today then! 
Mack

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Getting the walls up on the rotary dump building.





It will get clad in corrugated iron.

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The tender is about done.  Just needs a little weathering.





Now I need to move onto the engine itself.  Needs a new cab, bell, whistle.  Thinking of putting on a larger smoke stack also. 

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Here's the new tender along with the engine.  I was thinking of keeping the boiler with just a new cab but don't think that's gonna work.  So, I'm going have to build everything starting with a new boiler.  Thinking of using a 3/4" piece of PVC which measures just of an inch on the outside diameter.

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Work progresses on the Salt Flats extension.  There will be a short passing siding, a spur to Si's Salt, and another spur to borax tipples.

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Hi Michael :wave:



Si's Salt Eh!






:pop:


Si.  ( proprietor ? ) 

W C Greene
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Rotary dump?



Here are three views of my old rotary dump installation. The rotary cage was built with brass shapes, soldered together. There were no rails, the cars' wheels were rolled onto the "angle" pieces and when the rotary turned the cars over, they were kept in place by the pieces above the car sides. Of course, all the ore cars had to be the same height to make this work. I had to use an "idler" car to keep the loco from getting in the cage and the pin & link couplers were able to rotate with the car so they stayed coupled while dumping. Easier to make happen than trying to explain the devices.
The middle photo shows the drive parts. The large ring gears were made from big r/c helicopter gears with the centers cut out and the ring gears were attached to the cage. The ring gears were driven by r/c car spur gears on a long shaft which was driven by a modified r/c plane servo. The cage turned slowly and the cars could be loaded with loose "ore" and dumped into a hopper beneath the cage and then "recycled" into other cars spotted at mines. This was fun operation...except when it was 103 degrees outside, raining, or freezing cold. There used to be a video of this working but damned old pornobucket deleted it when I wouldn't pay them!

               Woodie

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Woodie,

I considered making a motorized dump but I just didn't think I had the energy for such a project.  I might give it a go sometime down the road.  I'm content with the setup I have right now.  Cars rotate and dump their loose load, and with the cage there a car doesn't fall off.  And, it was cheap and simple.


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Howdy Michael, actually the parts were pretty cheap...about 3 or 4 bucks for the brass shapes, 6 bucks for the 2 copter gears, 3 bucks for the r/c car gears, and a buddy gave me the old servo. The "engineering" was simple also, just an exercise in soldering some parts together. The servo was powered by a couple of AA batteries which lasted over a year! At the time I built it, I made a working belt conveyor to transfer the ore to waiting 3 foot gauge gons but this all became too much "monkey business"...the rotary was simple to mess with, the damn conveyor demanded constant attention. Ahhh, such is life and operating BS.

Woodie

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The Dump House (building for the rotary dump) is taking shape.  I used 1/4" square stock from Home Depot for the frame, and E6000  glue.  Rafters and siding is balsa.  It will be covered in corrugated siding.

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Interesting models: http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Narrow_Gauge__60cm__Railway.html

A little pricey!

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Looks like the only 1:35 scale models they offer are "military" jobs, from WW1 mostly. Yep, they are pretty pricey. May I ask...what the hell is "coarse scale"? I guess that's what I model...

Woodie

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Not positive what 'course scale' is, but I think it means kinda-sorta scale or close enough that no one will notice.  Something that I often unintentionally practice. 

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Could "coarse scale" be like "stand off " scale in model boating ... stand way off when you view it and it looks OK.

Mack

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Mack,

That's like the three-foot rule; if it looks good from three feet away then it's close enough.

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Yup ... That's the one! Used to use it a lot in model aircraft scales as well.
Mack

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Playing around with boiler diameters for my 0-4-0 conversion and found a few neat photos:

http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=325498&nseq=94


Gotta love the smoke stack on this one:  http://www.mossmotoring.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Dagny.jpg



I'm considering a boiler diameter of about 38" (3/4" PVC) for my little loco.

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Hi Michael :mex:



3/4" P.V.C. pipe would actually be 26 1/4" dia in 1:35 scale.



:brill:



Si.

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Si,

Now I had to go pull out my scale ruler to see what I was doing.  I was looking at the outside diameter pf 3/4" PVC Schedule 40 which is 1 1/16" (26.67mm) which should be a tad over 38" in 1/35, or 51" in 1/48 scale if my math is correct.  Schedule 40 has a thicker wall and looks like about 25" in 1/35 on the inside.  Was looking at using one of Wiseman's smokebox fronts inside of trying to make one.

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I love the engine in the second pic.

Mack

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That second pic looks a bit like NPs little "Minnetonka" loki.

Larry G

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Ever have one of those little things that just doesn't want to come together as planned and is bugging the heck out of you?

I was trying to hook up a manual throw to my new stub switch.  I was planning on using a modified toggle switch, but that didn't work out.  Tried using a simple slide switch, but the ones I had didn't have a long enough throw.

I considered using a Caboose ground throw but those can get expensive if you use a lot of them.

What to do.

Thought I would try and make one out of styrene.  Inexpensive, and easy to work with.

So, I came up with this:





Kind of along the lines of a Harp switch stand.

It works.  So, now I can finally go back to my other projects.

W C Greene
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Invention is the mother of....well, Frank Zappa had it right!
Great idea. Long ago, I used DPDT miniature slide switches controlled by "knob & rod" on my old On20 layout with stubs. Back then, the line was DC powered so the DPDT's were required. I had them linked to PSC O scale harp switchstands so that when I switched, the harp stand would operate also. The crap really worked for years. Later when I got into On30 with r/c, I used those old PSC throws to work the stubs. I found out that the cast brass scale harps needed to be re-enforced with steel wire because the throw/target were too damn weak to hold up to actual operation.
I use Caboose HO ground throws on my stuff now, the wing rails line up with the moving rails (maybe .020 or .025) so the things work my switches. It's kinda finicky sometimes but that's the nature of stub switches and why railroads changed to point switches.

Woodie

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Given my questionable track skills I'm quite surprised that my stub switch actually works!  Had to do some fine tuning but cars now roll through it just fine.

Soldering some brass wire on the outside rails makes lining up the lead track simple.

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Her's a good shot of a three-way stub switch at the Orange Empire Railway Museum in Perris:  http://ngdiscussion.net/phorum/read.php?1,127952,128348


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Backside of businesses of Whiskey Flats.

Michael M
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BILL'S LAW:

Bill's Law specifically states that it covers ANYTHING that Murphy may have forgot, omitted, or plain didn't know in the first place. There fore if it can happen it WILL happen to ME.

Michael M
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Some closeups of the borax ore bin and it's workings.







It's crude and basic, but it works.  There is enough friction to keep the chute in either the up or down position.

Bob R
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Like it.  Simple is always best.  Crude underneath is just fine.  Out of sight - out of mind. Unless your guests run a train over the side of the layout, they should not be below the benchwork anyway.
On my layout, nothing out of sight is finished - backs of buildings, underside of rail cars etc.

Larry G
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I like simple. Your design is just What I need to make my loading bin work. I will need to keep all the workings inside the ore bin since my buildings are removable. 
How do you keep the "ore" from spilling out when the chute is in the upright position?
Larry G

Michael M
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Larry,

There is a block at the back end of the chute.  With the chute in the 'up' position the front of the chute is at an up angle, the block keeps the borax (sand) from spilling out the back, and the discharge opening from the bin just basically clogs up.  Once the chute is in the 'down' position everything starts flowing again.  The discharge opening from the bin is probably about 3/8" square so the sand doesn't flow out very fast.

It was kind of a trial-and-error type of thing.

Michael M
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I picked up a Tactic transmitter and receiver off eBay for about $25.00.  I already have an ESC; just need another LiPo battery.   Not sure what I'm going to use this with, but I thought it was a good deal.  The 'space pistol' is for left-hand use only.

What I really need to do is get my work bench cleaned off so I can move on to other projects.

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



I think I am suffering from 'workbench congestion' as well. :f:

( although Doug probably won't believe a word of it ! ) ;)



Oh well ... at least you have the California weather outside ... :!:





... tearing down with RAIN here again. :f:

Might have to tidy up the bench a tad ! :shocked:



:cool:



Si.


Michael M
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Okay.  Who has the messiest work bench out there?

Si.
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" Okay.  Who has the messiest work bench out there? "



Hi Michael :mex:



Looks like YOU WIN then ! :P

Perhaps no one thought they could compete with the 'N.I.&.E.R.R.' workshops !! :shocked:


;)


Oh well ... competition over ... did you manage to clear the decks OK ?

BASHing can leave a trail of debris sometimes ! :f:



:pimp:   PIMP MY SHIFTER !



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Haven't even come close to clearing things off.  Not included in the photo was the building for the rotary dump that I'm trying to finish.

I replaced the worm gear on the 4-wheel switcher.  The set screw I was using was too fine a thread.  Working on a new boiler for the Shifter.  On the Salt Flats extension I wasn't happy with how things were turning out so I ripped out the roadbed and started over.  Now using 3/16" x1/8" stripwood for ties.  Like the profile much better.

Si.
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" I replaced the worm gear on the 4-wheel switcher.
The set screw I was using was too fine a thread "



Hi Michael :wave:



Thanks AGAIN for your 'inspired' idea of using 'regular set-screws' as 'worms' ! :bow:


Quite how I never thought of that as a 'mechanical-engineer' is kinda beyond me. :dope:



The 'coarser' WHITWORTH threads, at least in 'Imperial land', are the ones to go for IMO.

There are other U.N.C. threads, which I have no experiences  of .. being a 'Brit.'. ???



The 'standard' camera-tripod-thread-mount, is in fact 1/4" 'Whitworth', an overall dia. of 1/4" ...

... & a GREAT 'coarse-thread' candidate, for potential 'worms'.



This really needs EXPANDING as a Topic, in the Freerails 'Technical' Forum, since it could be of great interest to many BASHers & moders.



Since a 'slight' re-ordering of 'Topics' to the 'Technical' Forum ...

... this kind of general conversation of 'Motoring, gearing, etc.' can mainly be found there, in the 'Technical' Forum.



:brill:



Si.


Michael M
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Everything under cover due to rain.  Yes, it actually rains sometimes here in Southern California.

Michael M
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I found these metal parts and thought they might make good junk laying around at one of the mines.  I used some thinned Testors Rust paint for the base coat.  I'll go back and dirty it up some more.

Michael M
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The building for the rotary dump is about done.  Still needs windows installed.


Michael M
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The junk at the lower corner of the building hides a slide switch used to throw a turnout.

Michael M
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Found some western style fonts that are free to download for personal use: https://www.dafont.com/theme.php?cat=106

There's even a Texas Tango font for Woodie!

Si.
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Hi Michael :wave:



NICE FONTS !  :cb:

T :cool: :cool:  many  C :cool: :cool: L  ones to choose from !! 



Looking great in 'San Miguel' yard.  :thumb:

I just can't get enough of these views down the tracks, as you're adding more to the picture. :)





I really like the detail of the little low fence on the right, with the short adobe wall at the end.  :mex:

That rain looks like it must have rusted up the ore-tipple building some !  ;)

Lookin' good Michael ! :bg:



:pimp:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Thanks Si.

The wood and adobe fences were quick, easy, and fun little projects to do.  I wanted something in the background so that it didn't look like the world just dropped off into nothing.

The rotary dump building receiver several coats of dirt, grim, and rust, along with several coats of UV spray.  This building should hold up against almost anything Mother Nature throws at it.

Michael M
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Michael M
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Michael M
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The rotary dump building is finally installed.

In the first photo you can see an ore car inside being dumped.


elminero67
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I like the new rotary dump building - it looks very Nevada-esque!




Michael M
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Finally got the borax tipple moved over to Salt Flats.  Rigged up a simple lever device to move the chute up and down. 


Bootlegbar
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Looking good.
The hand laid track will really add to the overall appearance.
If I was a gambler, I would bet you go back and hand lay it all after you see the new section with some dirt on it. ;)
Stephen

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Bootlegbar,

Ya know I've kinda been thinking about doing that.
At least on some sections of the layout.


Si.
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" The wood and adobe fences were quick, easy, and fun little projects to do.
I wanted something in the background so that it didn't look like the world just dropped off into nothing "


Hi Michael  :wave:



They look great & really 'work' at the back of the layout.  :thumb:



Here's another couple of my favorite pics. of yours, from a while back.





Just LOVE  :)  lil' ol' passenger car No.74 !  :pimp:




Don't forget that ancient RIVETed & RUSTed darn leaky tank car & flat No.502 as well !!  :old dude:



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:



Si.



Last edited on Wed May 30th, 2018 06:16 am by Si.

Michael M
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Salt Flats/Manly Siding

If names like 'Titus' and 'Manly' sound familiar to some it's because they are names of real places.

There really is a Titus Canyon in Death Valley,
and up to some 10,000 years ago there was a lake that covered much of the floor of Death Valley called Manly Lake.


Steven B
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We always called it "Tight *** Canyon."

But the proper names are quite masculine or manly!

Keep posting Michael.:pop:


Michael M
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Steven,

"Tight *** Canyon" would probably be much more appropriate.

There are many spots on that road that are barely wide enough for a SUV. 


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



Interesting looking 'trackplan'.  :cool:

Almost ... but not quite ... a TIMESAVER !  :P



It looks like switching the 'salt flats' could be thirsty work ...

... oh well ... cars moved & swapped out ... & back to the cantina for a cold  [toast]  one !



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

It is close to a Timesaver.
More by accident than by planning.

Well, finally finished putting down rail on the other siding.
Could have fitted in another siding or two but didn't want to over-crowd the scene.

Been running a few trains to test out the new track and make adjustments.


Michael M
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Here's Number 8 out on trial runs.  Still have work to do on the engine.


Steven B
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That's a very big tender! 

NO chance of running out of water out there in the waste lands! :2t:



Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



How's the  N.I.& E.  new 'No. 8 spot' rolling there ?  :shocked:





Smooth as silk on those billiard table salt flats of yours ... right ?  :mex:



:doh:



Si.


Michael M
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Haven't been doing too much as of late.
 
Had to rebuild one switch to the Titus Canyon spur.  Shinohara ties are not UV resistant.

Been packing up the Lionel layout in the spare bedroom. 
Really haven't done anything with it over the last few years.  It was built in sections so it should be a easy removal.
 
With the extra space maybe I can get a decent workbench set up.








Michael M
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Well, the Lionel layout is slowly coming down.

Have been trying to make some progress on the NI&E.









Been just beyond hot outside lately.  Kinda like standing on the warm side of the Sun.





See what the Sun did to one of my rulers.


Si.
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" Kinda like standing on the warm side of the Sun "


Hi Michael  :wave:



Have been experiencing a bit of a 'warm spell' here in Blightey lately as well !  :boogie:

If I could align myself to the  C :cool: :cool: L  side of the sun  :s:  ... I'd do it !!

Perhaps I just need a BIG hat ?  :mex:



The 'Eastwood Ravine' is def. lookin'  C :cool: :cool: L  though !

That's not as in 'Clint' is it by any chance ?



The groundwork looks great ...

... & your bridges are just THE funkiest !  :pimp:



Keep it happenin' bro.  :thumb:



:moose:



Si.


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Mmmmm, Mal Paso. Go ahead make my ravine.  :mex: 

I read a story that he squinted so much because Serigo really lit up the scene. 
He liked a lot of light. 
Also caused sweat...

Keep on chugging Michael.


Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Michael

I have gone now through all the 38 pages of your thread with growing interest at each page.

I feel a bit sad and a bit jealous now because I still don't dare to model with that innocent freedom that I knew during my childhood but can't find back yet and see you have it in abundance.

Thank you for shaking me up and reminding me where is the North of the compass.

:bow::bow:

:2t::2t:

:apl::apl::apl::apl::apl::apl::apl::apl:

Michael M
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Been trying to get a little work done on the Salt Flats/Manly Siding extension.
Experimenting with different ways to make a salt pan.
 
Here I put down a base of fine light-colored sand, and thought that maybe actual salt might work. 
So I built up like three layers of salt using diluted Titebond III. 
When the sun is just right I get that sparkle from the salt. 
Not sure how well it will hold up in the weather.









Michael M
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Decided the borax tipple needed a name.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



True Grit  :cb:  ... Huh ?



Was it you that suggested a few bullet-holes in something of mine ? ...  :shocked:

... or was it that darn rust bandit Jose, with his damn NAILHOLES ! ?  L:


???


Anyway ... I think a  1:35 scale  .45 hole  is about  0.3mm  ;)



:mex: :cb: :old dude: Great work Sonny !



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Gotta have a little fun once in awhile.
I suppose I could put a few bullet holes in the sign.

Michael M
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Picked up a new (well, used) book.





Michael M
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Came across this video on automatic link & pin couplers: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oADt4oJihz0

Not sure I would want to give this a try, but it's neat to see what others are doing.


W C Greene
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Michael, the guy in the video had to reach in and uncouple the cars...so it appears that it is not "automatic"...
Besides, real l&p's were NOT automatic and required the brakeman (me or you) to pull the pin and set the link. Of course it's no big deal when 4 ounces of freight car hits you but 5 or so tons?
If you want automatic, use Kadees....

My crazy opinion
Woodie

Michael M
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The borax tipple needed some way of getting the ore loaded, so I finally installed a conveyor and a dump bin for trucks.









Michael M
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Even though I packed up all the Lionel trains, and moved my work bench, it still hasn't gotten any neater.





Those orange things with the blue tape are the beginnings of my rendition of the Cigar Tank Car.


pipopak
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A clean workbench is a sure sign of an inactive modeler.
Jose.


Si.
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" ... my work bench it still hasn't gotten any neater "


Hi Michael  :wave:



Oh I dunno mate.  L:

I'm pretty sure I've seen it A LOT WORSE than that !  :shocked:

Now where the hell did you put those small truck mounting screws ?  :f:


;)


Nice to see what's going on as usual Michael.  :thumb:


One can wax on about how we might do this & that forever ...

... but photographs of models actually being made says it all.  :pimp:



I love seeing the construction & bench photographs.  :dt:

They are great for showing modeling ideas & how to stuff in practice.  :thumb: 



"Tanque Easter Egg" hombre ?  :)

:mex:  WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' CHOCOLATE BUNNIES !  :mex:



Your NEW underframe looks pretty  C :cool: :cool: L  !

&

Is that another NEW car build, a caboose maybe ? hiding away in the background ?  ???



Great to see the latest on the  'N.I.& E.R.R.'  :cb:

I'm sure that new modeling room of yours & squeaky clean bench ;) will do wonders !

Keep the photos coming !  :bg:



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Look what the Easter Bunny brought!









The center section is a 1" PVC coupling.  Will probably need to shorten it a bit.
Everything held together with tape for the moment. 
I'm thinking of maybe leaving it a open-frame car.


Michael M
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More work on the Tanque Charuto inspired tank car. 
I think I'll call this the Tanque Gordo. 
I had to shorten the body to fit on my standard car frame. 
More work to do.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



I don't even think Clint Eastwood could smoke that baby !  :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:



I figure it could be related to the 'torpedo' class of ceeegars ...

... nothing to do with a hot-metal torpedo B.T.W. ...  ;)

... my main-man gifted me a stella 'New World' torpedo at the weekend ! ...

... not bad for a non Cuban bad-boy !  :bg:



Perhaps some  NO SMOKING !  signs around the unloading area could be prudent !  :f:



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:



Si.


Michael M
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Found something new! 
Actually I found this on one of the O Gauge forums. 
Picked this up at Walmart for about $8. 
Not exactly sure what I'm going to use it for yet.


Larry G
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Michael, I have a use for just such a thing.
Next time I'm at Walmart I will look for this.
Thanks for posting the info.

Larry G

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Michael

Will need to stop by Malwart and check them out,
can always use assorted piping,
cheaper than Walthers.


Michael M
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More work on the Fat Tank, or Tanque Gordo.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



I LOVE IT !  :bg:



:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:



Pimp my Easter Egg !  :pimp:



Si.


Michael M
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A short supply and passenger train crosses the Titus bridge.





Stopping at Whiskey Flats.





Stopping by Morrison Borax at Manly Siding.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



Lookin' GREAT as usual !  :thumb:



I love the LIGHT from California ...  :cool:

... & the COLOUR from the modeling.  :)


No.8 is a winner !  :old dude: Top notch photos sonny !



:mex:



Si.


Michael M
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Number 8 recently received a sand dome and some boiler bands, so it's starting to look a little better. 
Still needs a steam dome and headlight.

Thankfully it has started to cool off a little (mid 90s). Much better than 100 plus degrees.

The Tanque Gordo is getting painted right now. Will try to post a photo soon.


Si.
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" Thankfully it has started to cool off a little (mid 90s). Much better than 100 plus degrees "



Hi Michael  :wave:



PHEW !  :boogie:

Well ... That's what us Brits. do best ! ...  :old dude:

... Complain about the weather !!  :f:



If the Sun actually comes out for 5-mins ... "Oh dear, it's just TOO hot !"  :f:

Then for the other 98% of the time when it's raining ... "I do miss the warmer weather !"  :f:

( I might be exaggerating just a tad  ;)  It really only rains about 95% of the time here ;) ;) )



Anyway ... Great photo of the  N.I.& E.  rolling stocks on the Titus Canyon trestle.  :thumb:

Sergio Leone would have loved the light & the location there fer sure ! 



:mex::old dude: :cb: :mex:



Si.


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Here is my semi-finished Tanque Gordo.


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I love it!
Good color too. :glad::glad::glad:



Michael M
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The tank car looks to be about the right size compared to my other cars.

And, a clean workbench too!

Si.
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" I love it!  Good color too. :glad::glad::glad: "



Hi Michael  :wave:



I'll second that !  :thumb:

N I C E !  build Michael.  :bg:



DAMN ! ... That new workbench of yours is  SO TIDY !  :shocked: 

Is that the trash-bin in the background, with all the empty coffee cups ?  :java: ;)



Don't let Jose see that ...

... NEVER throw ANYTHING away !!  :P



Well ... Actually, it can help a bit sometimes.  L:

One mans trash is another mans gold-dust though.  :)



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:



Si.



Michael M
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Actually that's just a small bin for keeping odds-n-ends for future unknown projects.



Michael M
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"Nature abhors a vacuum."

A clean workbench is begging to be messed up.

The toilet paper tubes are destined to become fuel tanks for the salt works.


Si.
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" keeping odds-n-ends for future unknown projects "



Hi Michael  :wave:



Pleased to hear it !  ;)



Predictably the workbench is starting to fill up again.  :shocked:

Nice to have a bit of space to work in though !

My workbench clearance was WELL overdue & it's much better now, thank goodness !!  :boogie:



Good to see you on a new project already Michael.  :thumb:

Fuel tanks for the salt works sounds  C :cool: :cool: L  to me !



:moose:



Si.


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Si, my work bench is only tidy because I use the dinner table for the most part.

I can't leave the dining table a mess because of... because of!

My real work area, my shed, is un-inhabitable right now. :P

I have no idea what Michael's excuse is. ;)

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Making a start on the salt works.  

Made two storage tanks, one water and the other fuel, out of toilet paper tubes and cookie pan aluminum, 
along with a pump house made out of balsa.



Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



The new Salt Works scene is lookin'  A W E S O M E   :cool:



The back-door to the Pump House worries me a bit though !  :w:



If you went in around front of the Pump House for a smoke ...  :mex:

... & left by the back-door ...  L:

... the 200ft drop could come as rather a  S H O C K   :shocked:



( might get salt in the wounds as well )  :f:



;)




Si.


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Land will eventually get added so no one falls off.


Everything is temporarily tacked down until I get the main structure built.

Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Michael

After seeing the last pages of your thread I couldn't avoid re-starting from first post.
I really enjoyed the whole thread.
I love your work.

Daniel

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Daniel,

Thanks for the compliment.  
I'm no great builder; just having fun.  
It's been years since I had done any scratch building and that was in HO scale.  
In 1/35 scale it's much easier on the eyes.


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New project here.  
This will be a small tank car fashioned after West Side Lumber's 'Coffin Car'.  
This will be a shortened version of the prototype.  
My models are often inspired by either the prototype or what other modelers have done.


I'm using some molding that I picked up from Home Depot to get the curves, and some 1/4" board to give it some height.  
The tank body measures out to a scale 54" by 102" by 30" high.



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 "... I'm no great builder; just having fun."

Same here.:wave:

I like your new project. Very interesting.


Daniel




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Seattle Car and Foundry Company catalog:


https://archive.org/stream/catalogueno300seatrich#page/n5



Lots of neat stuff.



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That is solid gold, Michael!!!


:2t:


L: ... Wasn't 'Seattle Car & Foundry Co.' one of the faces of 'Gregg' company?


Daniel


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Cool find!  I especially like the Yosemite Lumber Co. tank, used on the incline at "Incline" at Trumble Peak off the YV.
:bg:

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Steven,

That might make an interesting model.

Do you have any photos of it?

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" I especially like the Yosemite Lumber Co. tank, used on the incline at "Incline" at Trumble Peak off the YV "



Sounds  C :cool: :cool: L  Steven !


I wanna look see !  :shocked:


Is that 'tank' as in tank car ? ... I guess so.  L:


Canadian Ken is a bit short of tank cars.  ;)

You never know, he might want to add a Yosemite Lumber Co. clone to his fleet !  :shocked:



Me too !  :P



:moose:




Si.


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Making some progress on the Tiny Coffin Car.

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A new addition to my library.


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Hi Michael. :wave:




Great book.




My 'Bible' when making 1:24n3 Westside Lumber Co. cars way back when ...


... plus nice 'California Shortline Historical Society' & Russ Simpsons car drawings bought Stateside.




Cool find ... Where did you pick it up from ? ... Good deal ?




:moose:




Si.

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Well the Yosemite Lumber Company is on of my favs.  

I used to live near it and have camped at the top of the incline.  

There was a fire lookout on the top of Trumble Peak that is accessed by a knife ridge... and when I say knife I mean razors edge.  
Those afraid of heights can't get there.  

It's really cool, the steps have been taken out of the lookout so you have to be an acrobat to get up, 
and if you fall, well they'll pick you up in the San Juaquin Valley, down around Merced, CA.

Here is the Incline.















Close up of the YV YLCo interchange.







The tank car specially designed for the incline.







My friend Patrick Karnahan worked to get the surviving shay from the Nevada State Railroad Museum to the Sierra Logging Museum near Arnold, CA.  

We did quite a bit of work on it to make it presentable.  

There is that hope that one day it might get a complete restoration.  

I now live 2500 miles away... I won't be a part of that project unfortunately.  



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Howdy Michael...many years back I owned a copy of "Last of the 3 Foot Loggers" and it got "borrowed"-never returned. A few years back, I bought another copy from Abe Booksellers at a very low price. When I received the book, it contained a small booklet about the proposed "West Side & Cherry Valley" tourist railroad to be developed from the old WSLCo property. Evidently the venture didn't last very long BUT...the book was sent to someone who may have been interested in the project by Mr. Glenn Bell, the founder of TACO BELL! Yep, it has a handwritten note on the first page to the friend of Mr. Bell's explaining the plans. Back then it all seemed like a great thing to happen. My dad & I visited the WSLCo in 1961, the last year of operation and got to see a last log train coming in and tour of the sawmill and shops. What a great thing for a teenage train nut. Then in the late 70's, my wife and son visited the place (Tolumne, CA) at the end of the road-no wonder the idea didn't happen. The tourist line was still "in operation"...somewhat. We walked down the same little hillside my Dad & I walked back then and saw some guy looking at one of the Shays, him and a large growling dog. I shouted down as to whether we could come check out things down there. "We came from Texas to see this." He hollered back-"Don't they have phones in Texas?" So much for him and the "visit". In the later years, it seemed that the WSLCo's Shays were being used by other operations like the Georgetown Loop in CO. It appears that Mr. Bell's plans never got to really happen.
Wheew, I just wanted to post my book purchase and got going on this!
And yes, we DO have telephones in Texas!

Woodie

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I picked the book up off eBay for about $14 including postage.  

The dust cover is a little worn other than that in good shape.


Can you image the mess if a car got away on that Yosemite Lumber incline?

There's an incline railway at Southern California Edison's (formerly Pacific Power and Light) Big Creek hydroelectric plant:

https://www.sierranevadageotourism.org/content/entry/sie5EE9CCAF96C262C3C



Huell Hower on California's Gold did an episode on Big Creek. 
 
At 13:20 he shows you the incline: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx9n4Zs_gDk



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Progress on the tiny coffin car.  Tank has a coat of primer.  Still need handrails.

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:pimp:  :pimp:  :pimp:  :pimp:  :pimp:



:moose:




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It's already looking very interesting, Michael.
:2t:

Handrails, paint and a little weathering will do the rest.
Daniel

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Finished up the shorty coffin car number T5.  

It sits on Cliff Line sprung old-time passenger trucks.  

Also has a steam driven water pump from Wiseman.



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Hi Michael  :wave:



It's always a nice surprise for me, to see how a car build comes out.  :)

There's nothing like a good tank car to expand the R.R.s roster !  :thumb:



Great job as usual !!  :mex:



:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:




Si.


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Hi Michael

I like the small car but what is making me really curious is how did you achieve such a convincing rendering of metal for the tank.

Would you tell so I can learn?

Thank you.

Daniel


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Daniel,
I used .020" styrene and a wheel punch to make the rivets.  
Gave it a shot of grey primer, and the Sunflower Blue for the final coat.  
All water cars on the NI&E are blue, and numbered in the 'T' series.  
The handrails were just some cheap galvanized wire that was also primed and spray painted black.  
The handrails were installed separately.  
Decals and some sloppy weathering and job done.

I did a fair amount of research on West Side's Coffin Car.  
There was some discussion about just where the handrails were placed.  
I tried to copy the car's handrails to some degree figuring that the car probably went through some re-builds along the way and changes were made.



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Thank you, Michael.

The car looks really VERY convincing.

Good work!!!

Daniel


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I have discovered that in spite of a coupler height gauge that some of the couplers on the rolling stock managed to come out at different heights.  

Need to do some tweaking on a few cars to get the height of the coupler correct.

I've thought about going link 'n pin, but I'm not sure my eyes could handle dealing with inserting pins.



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Yes, I know such issues with couplers.
:time: ...
Some day, a very clever, old birds friendly guy will come up adding to knuckle couplers, Link & Pin couplers, Chopper couplers, Magnet couplers, etc., etc., the Funnel couplers!!!

And here we are, waiting for Godot. :us:

Daniel

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New book added to the library.  

The Railroad That Lighted Southern California by Hank Johnston.  

Used and no dust jacket but for $8.50 including postage still a good deal.



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The beginning of the Bad Burro Saloon.



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" Bad Burro Saloon "



Hi Michael  :wave:



I'm liking this ALREADY ... even as bare walls !  :thumb:



BAD ASS name for such an establishment !  :mex:



:java::cb:




Si.


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Si,

I have a few more drinking establishments in mind to go along with the Bad Burro.  

There will be the Dusty Donkey Saloon and the Mangy Mule Bar.  

Western mining towns often had far more bars and saloons than any other business.  

These will probably end up at the planned town of Sundance.



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Michael, you need one other saloon, the BLOATED GOAT #4. 
Number 1 was the real one in Mogollon, #2 was in the model Mogollon, and #3 is in "downtown" Boquillas.

You can get anything you want at Bloated Goat number 4!

Woodie

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Woodie,

I thought about the Bloated Goat but wanted to try something original.  

I'm sure I could find room for one more drinking establishment for Bloated Goat #4.  

Just hope I can do it justice.



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Found these plastic animals at a dollar discount store.  

I wanted a burro so I started with the goat (upper left-hand corner) and removed the horns, udder, and tail.  

Made a new longer tail out of some scrap styrene.  

A little painting and I came up with this:







The cop stands about 6 feet tall.

I think I'll need another set...need a goat for the planned Bloated Goat #4.



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Beatty, Nevada has the Happy Burro: 


Happy Burro Chili & Beer In Beatty Nevada




Michael M
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16 saloons in Nevada: 


16 Sagebrush Saloons Worth Drinking In & What To Order



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Oh Man Michael!   

I've been to better'n half of them, AND at least know where they all are!  

They don't mention Genoa though, that is "The Oldest Saloon" in Nevada.  

Hoisted a couple of draughts there too, had too.

Thanks for posting... Makes me happy and fondly melancholy for the Nevada desert.

[toast]



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Nice finds on the photo research Michael !  :thumb:


Fancy  ^^  woodwork !  ;) 



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:




Si.


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The Happy Burro looks like it was almost slapped together.  

Faded and warped boards, faded lettering on the sign, smoke stack weaving its' way to the roof.  

The building was originally an assay office and is over 100 years old.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahE54Rp07XU



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I worked with John Tyson for a few years on the Nevada Northern.  

And he drove V&T engines in the 1990s too where I first met him at the Gold Hill Hotel, one of the bars in your last link.  

Had a $50 shot of scotch there once.  Back when I was, as Twain says, flush.  

I'm not sure that the "wild" west ever left Beatty!  

Great post Michael.  Now you're really making me homesick!

:sad:



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More progress on the Bad Burro Saloon.

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" Faded and warped boards, faded lettering on the sign, smoke stack weaving its' way to the roof "



Hi Michael  :wave:



Sounds like the perfect ingredients for a BAD ASS burro of a saloon !  :cb:  [toast]



:cool: :cool: KIN'  C :cool: :cool: L  !


I hope the damn beer is as well !


WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' WARM BEER !  :mex:



:moose:




Si.


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I like your entire layout and frequently look over the photos when I need a train fix.

What did you use for the sub frame of your saloon building, and what have you used as an exterior material. 

Sure, I can tell it's all wood, but what kind of wood?

Thanks!


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It's all made from balsa.  

I made a basic box out of 4" wide balsa, and then since I didn't have enough strips I used my balsa stripper to cut planks about 8" scale wide.  

After everything is painted I do hit it with a few coats of sealer to hold everything together and keep the weather out.



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It looks great.

I really enjoy the outdoor layouts. 
I had one going for awhile in standard gauge HO. 
It was about 100 feet of track. 

Now I'm eyeing that rail as a source for something else, and paying attention to other people's layouts on here. ;)



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Woodie is really the expert when it comes to building layouts in the great outdoors.






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The Bad Burro Saloon is done.  

At least for now.  


Not real thrilled about how the sign turned out, so I may go back and change it later.

Now it's time to move on to new projects.



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:2t::apl::apl::apl::apl:

Traingeekboy
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It looks awesome to me.

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Michael, I like the Bad Burro and I like the sign. It all looks just right. 
Now you need some hombre sitting out front leaning back in an old chair. Maybe with a bottle sitting beside the chair...

Woodie


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Woodie,

Once I get it installed I'll add some details and figures.  

Needs a horse tied up out front.

Right now I've got some big changes underway.



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Michael,

I finally got a chance to read through this entire thread, twice. 
Very nice modeling and it looks like you are having fun as well. 
I love it. Very inventive.

I need to stay out of the Narrow Gauge forum, it could be very bad for my wallet. 
All of this 35n2 looks like a lot of fun and the idea of RC and no track power...

I'm not so sure about the outdoors part though. 
It would be great but then I think about the 115 degree summer days (100+ almost every day from June-Sept.), sandstorms followed by monsoon rains. 
After a good sandstorm we have an 1/16" of sand in our foyer in a fairly new and "tight" house. 
Could be a little rough on the models but then again weathering should be pretty quick and dramatic. 
Not enough rain to amount to more than a 10 or so inches per year but it all comes at once. 
In the evenings during July/August and during the day in January/ February. 
The winds have knocked over a big Weber stainless steel grill, hate to think what it could do to a balsa model. 

Still, I sure like the idea...

Tom


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The layout has survived the Santa Ana winds.  

Mortar is used in place of plaster.

If it gets too sunny put up some umbrellas.

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I looked through your layout discussion yet again.

Things I noticed that I will take away with me.

1. Build a small oval layout, so you can get running right away.

2. It's not Scratch building, it's Scrap building. (I see it on a lot of the layouts here, Woodie also does this) 
I already do this. 
I actually built all the benchwork on my garden railway from lumber found in alleys. 
I just need to extend the mindset to model materials. ;)

Question for you. 
What paint did you use on Tanko Grande. 
I want to paint my gas loki red, but it has to be a red with a bit of a blue tint, so that it's super red! 
Tanko looks really brilliant red, much redder than a kids wagon or a fire engine.


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Traingeekboy,

You have to promise to keep this a secret.  
On the Tanko Grande I used Rust-Oleum Regal Red #7765 that I picked up at Home Depot.  
No great planning on my part.  
I wanted a red tank car and this red just happened to be handy and looked right.

As far as scrap building is concerned I save just about everything.  
Just look at things in a different light. 



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I had a hunch it was a rattle can color. 

I've been eye-ing the Ace off brand spray cans. 

I don't own an airbrush and don't plan to. :P  

Shhhh... :glad::glad::glad:


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" As far as scrap building is concerned I save just about everything "



Hi Michael & T.G.B.  :wave:



I have a great collection of sCRAP !  ;)

Try finding that perfect shaped cylinder when you want it otherwise ! ...  L:

Or gear wheel ...  L:

Or nice piece of trash wood ...  L:

Or metal grab-iron wire ...  L:

Or sheet plastic ...  L:

Shall I go on ?  ???


NO ! ... Please don't I hear !  ;)


Keep up the great work & use up plenty of sCRAP !  :P



:mex: :mex: :mex: :mex: :mex:

 

Si.


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In France there is a law about "gleaning". It goes way back. Basically after any crop has been harvested, the gleaners are allowed to go gather free food.

There is a good documentary about it called The Gleaners and I by Agnes Varda.

But yes, I am a trash heap eyer for many years now. ;)

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Well, I don't so much indulge in "scrap building" as I do crap building. I gots lotsa craaaaap and need to use it up...the trashman doesn't even want it!

Woodie

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I found these cowboy hats on eBay.  They are really charms that you would put on a bracelet.  There is a loop on the back of the hat that needs to get cut off. 


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Very cool! 

The stuff one can find on fleabay....just how many hats do you get with an order?

Woodie




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Figured this way was easier than making your own cowboy hats.

There's 10 in a packet.

Cowboy Hats On eBay




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I gave the hat a quick shot of rattle-can white.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



Dare I say ...

... YYYEEEEEEEEE  HHHAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWW  !  :cb:



:P




Si.


Michael M
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So, what do you think?


Tom Harbin
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Michael,

It looks great; but--isn't it on backwards? 

It looks to me like an RCA which would have the crown idents toward the front with the wider, rounder, part towards the rear.

Just sayin...

Tom

Michael M
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Tom,

I think you are right.  

I was thinking the same thing late last night.







This morning I flipped the hat around and it looks much better.  

Thanks.


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That looks really good Michael. 

Great job!

Tom


Traingeekboy
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That figure is fantastic.

The hat and the facial hair really work.




Michael M
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Box car for hauling salt.


Michael M
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The folks at Scotty's Salt decided they needed their own boxcar for hauling their salt.

They were concerned that other cargo could contaminate their salt. 

Rumor has it that that Walter Scott (aka Death Valley Scotty) lettered the car himself.

That's my story and I'm sticking with it until a better one comes along.



Steven B
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Yippie-Ki-Yea baby!  Love the dude. 
Glad you told him the pinch goes in the front. 
Tell him when he takes it off the crown goes down. 
It's cowboy that way.  Anything else is city slicker.

:cb:

So the boxcar looks fabulous.  Glad Scotty got a good lookin' house car. 
I like the yellow. Many of my boxes will be yellow too, a very popular color in the way back. 
Looks like that desert air has shrunk the wood some, great gaps! 
I can't find my pictures right now so this will have to suffice - 


http://www.boxcars.us/Boxcars_A_M/N-NO/images/100NN,%2036'%20Wood%20Single%20Door%20Boxcar,%201023.jpg


Would that be margarita salt?  :mex:   

Keep it up Michael.   :shades:


Michael M
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Steven,

The boards were glued on individually.  1/4" stock I think. 
I wanted the car to look like it's been well used. 

The decals are from K4Supply (on eBay); you get like 20+ of most letters along with numbers. 
The decals only need about 15-20 seconds in water.  I think the set cost like $6.85.

Love that Nevada Northern boxcar.


Michael M
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Here's a new kit from MiniArt.


W C Greene
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I LOVE THE SALT CAR! Great work!
But, I am very concerned that you posted this concrete mixer kit.
I just decided to get a couple of Case tractor kits and now THIS!

Woodie




Here's the old Mogollon Railway insulated box car...now a sand bin in Terlingua...

Michael M
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Woodie,

I've always liked your insulated boxcar and hope to make something similar in the near future.

I like to think that Scotty's Salt No.12 boxcar went through several owners in Mexico and South America,
before landing on the NI&E somewhat worse for wear. 
But, a new coat of paint and fresh lettering hides many flaws. 
I used Boyd's Dark Yellow enamel paint which looks like a light mustard
(bought a small bottle from a hobby shop that was going out of business for $1). 
'Scotty' came from a book I've been reading by Hank Johnston about Death Valley Scotty.
While there are no records of Scotty getting involved in salt mining it could have happened.
He was very good at 'mining' eastern financiers.

I like that concrete mixer set. I understand that it was just recently released. 
Could be used in an active scene, or just as junk. The shovels, bags, pick could be used anywhere.


Michael M
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Okay, Scotty's Salt boxcar is done.


Michael M
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Found some more cowboy hats on fleabay that are about the right size for 1/35 scale heads.

W C Greene
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Michael, HATS OFF to you...Scotty's car looks great! Carry on, sir.

Woodie

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Love your little boxcar.  It really captures the character of a little narrow gauge railway.

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The boxcars are wonderful. love he colors too, what did you use?

Michael M
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Scotty's Salt was made out of balsa wood for the body and corrugated metal (cookie pan material) for the roof. 
The wood was sealed since it's outside most of the time, and painted with Boyd Dark Yellow.  Kinda looks like mustard to me. 
Some sloppy weathering and it's good to go.

It's got a bit of a plantation look to it.  Obviously acquired third or fourth hand.


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Hi Michael  :wave:



I thought you might like this rusty ol' cement mixer !  :P





Could do with a polish & a bit of oil maybe, probably clean up quite nice with a bit of work ...  :Salute:

... maybe.  L:



:cool:



Si.


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Si,

Gotta get me one of those!

Michael M
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Had a Lambert switch where the plastic ties had basically disintegrated on me. 
Had hope that by painting the ties and using some UV spray the ties would hold up but no luck. 

So I pulled it up and went to work soldering everything. 
No sense in wasting a good switch, and it works better than before.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



Nice work on 're-cycling' that switch.  :)



HOLY COW !  :shocked:

With those scorch marks on the wood ...

... it doesn't look like you're skimping on THE HEAT !  :boogie:



:cool:



Si.


Michael M
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The hotter the better as far as I'm concerned!
Don't want those rails coming loose later on.

Michael M
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Titus Canyon seems to be a natural collection point for leaves.

Wonder where that crack came from.


Michael M
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Since I had good success in rebuilding that damaged switch I thought I would give building a point switch from scratch a try.

Over the course of a few days I was able to put this together. 
Ran some cars though it and it actually works! 
It's about a #5 switch.

I plan on re-building San Miguel yard with handlaid track and wanted to use mostly point switches with maybe a few stubs.


Tom Harbin
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Michael,

Your point switch looks really good. How did you do the point hinges?

Tom

Michael M
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Tom,

For the point hinges I just soldered some small brass rod on the outside web of the rail.

Gives just enough play to throw the points. 

A little stiff but I use manual homemade ground throws.



Michael M
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Recently picked up a used Bachmann On30 2-6-0. 

Has a few cosmetic issues like smoke stack, headlight, and pilot, but those would have been changed out anyway. 

Runs just fine on DC power. 

Will get converted to an oil burner, and of course get RC installed.  Should be enough room in the tender for a receiver and Li-Po battery.


Michael M
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The Tonopah & Tidewater ยท Trails & Rails

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRO1MRT8LZo

Si.
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" picked up ... 2-6-0 ... an oil burner ... tender "


Hi Michael  :wave:



:mex:  WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' TENDERS SOUTH OF THE BORDER !!  :mex:





:mex:  We just need 2 extra small wheels !  ;)





Or for some more nonsense ...


MOGUL HEAVEN !

Or Glover built some ACE ! iron.  :cb:





For the lumberjacks !  :moose:

Argent Lumber No.3





Or ...

:mex:  WE GOT PLENTY OF SPACE FOR THE STINKIN' FIRE WOOD !  :mex:






In any case Michael ... I'm sure you're gonna have fun with that new BASH victim !  :P



Gotta find some time for mine.  :time:



:cool:


Si.


Michael M
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Don't know how many of you visit Facebook, but there are a number of railroad groups on there both prototype and modeling. 
I just joined a group 'Railroads of Death Valley'. 
Their focus is on railroads in and around the Death Valley area.


What remains of Daggett including the Borate and Daggett Railroad:

http://www.mojaverivervalleymuseum.org/borax-site-article-FINAL.pdf


Also found this about Death Valley:

http://www.deathvalley.com/index.php/stories/death-valley-gold/240-death-valley-conferences-on-history-and-prehistory?fbclid=IwAR0eivdhhOCUkorMNngRDNRTiS0qn_iXz5AeMPe5dUapzBgDCYcpux2EHYs


Interesting that there is an article titled "Carson & Colorado Railroad And Proposed Death Valley Extension". 
I don't recall ever reading about the C&C planning a build to Death Valley.


Michael M
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Coming soon to a hobby shop near you.

W C Greene
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Geez...I wish you hadn't posted that new kit!

I'm still "jones ing" on the Case tractor kit, now this!

WCG



Michael M
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More pipe material!










Milkshake straws! 

Larger than regular straws at about 3/8" in diameter. 

Found them at a CVS Pharmacy for a buck a bag.


Bob R
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Good find.  There are many uses for sure.

Attachment: 20190209_080639_resized.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)

Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



'MiniArt' seem to have more or less made a 'copy' of the really similar old 'Italeri' tools kit.

Weird !  :Crazy:


Have you seen the 'Italeri' kit ?  ???

Woodie has had a couple & parts scattered around Mogollon & Silver City.  :cb:
Cheap as chips:pop: quite often on evilBay $$$ 


:cool:


Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Didn't know there was an Italeri job out there. 
I'd like to find one especially if it's cheap. 

I'd like to do that abandoned-in-the-desert cement mixer.



W C Greene
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The crane in the Mini Art kit is a "heavy duty" job and the Italeri kit is capable of hoisting the motor from a Kubelwagen.
I will find one (Squadron shop) anyway...never can have too many cranes, torches, and other crap.
I bet this kit costs more than the old field tool kit also.

WCG



Si.
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Hi Michael  :Salute:



There have been quite a few 're-boxes' of this basic kit.  L:

' 1:35 Field Tool Shop '  will find most of them, except for the 'Tamiya/Italeri' one, which has a different name.  :us:



If the  'Budget Kit Gods'  are smiling for you that day ...  :bg:

... you MIGHT even pick one up for as little as $5 Bucks ! ... Maybe.  :sad:



The 'MiniArt' one is probably made out of plastic so thin ...

... if you sneeze, that might be the end of the whole kit !  :shocked:



Likewise with the Cement Mixer probably.  :w:

Annoying 'scale thicknesses' & all that finescale jazz !  ;)



:java: :cool:



Si.


Larry G
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Does anyone produce kits such as these in 1/24 scale?


Larry Gant

Si.
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No.  :Salute:



Michael M
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Anybody remember these?





I picked up a box for a few bucks. 

#8 switches that looks like I got enough parts to make four switches.





I don't have any problem making my own frogs, but have trouble making the points. 

Thought I might use a few of these Atlas switches and make life a little easier.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



Looks like a  C :cool: :cool: L  find !  :thumb:



My long distant past attempts at making the 'points' were not that easy.  :f:

I do however have MUCH better tools, files & mini-vices etc. now though.



I have some track & 'Hornby' Code-100 switches (cheap as chips) for possible parts plundering !  :P

Pretty similar to your 'Atlas' I guess.  ???



Using R.C. & not having to bother about electrical insulation helps of course.

Especially with X-INGs !  :shocked:

I'm wanting insulation for non-R.C. locos as well though.  L:



Gee ... Stubs are a nice option !  ;)

I'll be interested to see how you do 're-cycling' those Atlas rails.  L:



:mex:



Si.


Michael M
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For those that might have at least a little interest in Southern Pacific's narrow gauge and Owens Valley there are photos and information at:

http://www.owensvalleyhistory.com/


Found one interesting photo of a transfer platform between standard gauge and narrow:

http://www.owensvalleyhistory.com/carson_n_colorado/slim%20rails64_sml.jpg


Pretty simple affair.  Notice the crane in the background.

Had to have taken quite some time to move freight from one car to another.


I'm re-doing the yard on my layout and wanted to included some kind of simple transfer point. 


Michael M
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Here's a #8 switch from an Atlas Switch Kit.


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Always impressed by those who can build their own track Michael.

Soldering and I don't get on I'm afraid - and I know it's only down to practice,

but it's good to see how those who can can!



Michael M
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Slateworks--- My soldering skills go from bad to worse.  But I manage to get the job done. 

I'm okay with making the frogs, but the points give me no end of trouble. 

That's one of the reasons that I decided to give the old Atlas switch kits a try. 

I only buy them if I can get them at a cheap price.





Here is the #8 that I just put together. 

This is the first switch leading into the yard at San Miguel. 

The old yard was scrapped since I was having too many problems with it.


Michael M
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Info on railroads around Death Valley:  

https://www.revolvy.com/page/United-States-Potash-Railroad?fbclid=IwAR3Obz7laXBHdvaXeOKSVXvcZapYhkv9I6qsHswXq3qLPntZmtx9fklLxTE



Death Valley Railroad tank car:  

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1708751719224811&set=pcb.1291466097652212&type=3&theater&ifg=1


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Well, here's a work in progress.  The new yard at San Miguel. 

The orange lid in the background is where the new turntable will go. 
The Bad Burro Saloon is on the lower left. 
Just might have room on the lower right for The Bloated Goat #4. 

The far track on the right will actually be a wider narrow gauge line with a loading dock.
Would like to get a little dual gauge trackage fitted in.


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Hi Michael  :wave:



I always liked the 'rails eye view' of your yard.  :thumb:

I am of course following the 'N.I.& E.R.R.' in pictures !  :)





I like any trackplan with a X-ing for some strange reason.  ;)

It looked pretty  C :cool: :cool: L





I guess 'improvements' are on the horizon though.  L:

I was SHOCKED  :shocked:  to hear about a possible 15" turntable ! ... WOW ! ... Kinda BIG !  :P





I do like car No.401 very much !!  :bg:
Neat idea with the 'Lazy Susan' bearing ... I might just have to see about getting one myself.  :old dude:



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,


The turntable might not actually make it to 15",  but should come pretty close. 
The old turntable was just too short. 

The yard itself was too small to work well, and there really wasn't any room to have a 'town'.

On the new yard there will be room for a few saloons and such,
along with an interchange, additional yard tracks, and more length for longer trains.


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Started installing the first switch leading into the new yard.  It's an Atlas #8 that I assembled. 

The blue tape outlines where the road will go kinda sorta. 

The ties leading up to the switch were laid three times and pulled up until I finally got the right alignment. 

The Bad Burro Saloon will go on the back left, and Bloated Goat #4 will fit in the front left. 

On the far right will be a sheriff's office and maybe a small general store. 


A little more progress every day.


Michael M
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Found an interesting photo of a saloon. 

Would be easy to copy.

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/aa/e0/a1/aae0a12001c34a8bfbed588db816f6ae.jpg



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Making progress on track laying.


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The saloon is probably the only building that can be faithfully scaled down (other than watchman shanties).

Jose.




Michael M
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Tombstone, Arizona


http://www.tombstoneaz.net/the-history-of-tombstone.html


"Tombstone was home to more than 100 saloons, a multitude of eateries, a huge red-light district..."

Michael M
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What can I say...


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1911747695617769&set=pcb.1911748025617736&type=3&theater&ifg=1

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Here's a view looking down the lead track into San Miguel. 

Bloated Goat #4 on the left is under construction with the Bad Burro on the right. 

Forgot to install the guard rails on the switch...still works fine though.


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Hi Michael  :wave:



:mex:  WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' 5-STAR RESTAURANTS !  :mex:



I'm feeling left behind ... as usual !  :slow:  ;)

Everyone either seems to have, or is building ... BLOATED GOATS !  :shocked:



I might just have to get me one o' them suckers !  :cb:



Lookin' good down by the tracks in the stinkin' low down tin-pot mining town of San Miguel !  [toast]



:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

You can never have too many saloons, or for that matter too many Bloated Goats!

As opposed to the wide-open spaces of the desert I wanted to have some between-the-buildings trackage.

Si.
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" You can never have too many saloons, or for that matter too many Bloated Goats! "



Hi Michael  :mex:



Well ... Never one to take a W.C.G.  :cb:  book recommendation lightly ...

... I got me a copy, to see for myself if there's any truth in all those Bloated Goat tails ...

... or is that tales ?  ;)





Nice illustration on the front cover ...
... perhaps very late one moonlit :s: nite on the boardwalk outside said establishment !  :old dude:



If I ever believe any of these bar room tales ...  L:

... or get a round to making my own lil' 1:35 saloon ...  :mex:

... I like the sign design in the picture, well worth reproducing.  :)



:cool:



Si.


Michael M
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I think I posted this link before, but it won't hurt to put it up again.

SCALE RAIL SIZES:  http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRrailsizes.html


W C Greene
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Si, I am going to "copy" the goat for my bar.
It is a goat and it sure looks bloated.
Something else to think about...

WCG



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With all the other projects I have waiting for me I went off and built my own rendition of the Bloated Goat.


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Looks great!

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Since your layout is an outdoor layout,
it has always been tops on my list of favorite layouts.

I agree on that end shot of the yard.
I spent a lot of time eying that as well.

Also, nothing compares to the kind of real lighting you get on an outdoor layout.
The blues in the shadows really make things look real.

Was glancing back through the discussion...



Michael M wrote: Found an interesting photo of a saloon.  

Would be easy to copy.

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/aa/e0/a1/aae0a12001c34a8bfbed588db816f6ae.jpg


This is a cool photo, where is it from?

And yes, an ideal easy to build model.


Michael M
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Not sure where the photo was taken. 
Somewhere in the woods judging by the trees in the background.

It looks like the sides of the saloon are canvas. 
Two basic four-pane windows to let some light in.

I was just doing a search of old west saloons on the internet,
and came across this one.

Many saloons were basic affairs with a bar and some tables,
although others could get kinda fancy.


Here are some others:

https://www.thevintagenews.com/2018/06/13/where-cowboys-went-to-party-25-photos-of-old-west-saloons/


The Second Class Saloon in Alaska looks like it would be a higher class place. 
The Buckhorn in Pinos Altos looks like Woodie's kind of place. 
How about the Bar Room in Charleston where drinks are 12 1/2 cents or 1 bit.

Seems like just about any kind of building could pass as a saloon.


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Nice idea for a building the general shape is so simple,
it's easily altered to any style of building.


I have this book here :

https://d3525k1ryd2155.cloudfront.net/h/876/255/720255876.0.l.jpg


And it has some really old shots of Colorado towns,
when they were just a few structures.

There is one shot of a town not long after the track was laid.
It's really small rail, I think 25 pound laid on rough timbers.
All they did was shave off the top and bottom,
and the sides of the ties are still barked and round.
The ties are just sitting on the ground with no ballast.

I have been whittling some small tree branches,
to see if I could hand lay on that kind of tie.

I really like those really old shots like that saloon.
It gets the imagination going -

thanks again.


Michael M
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Ya know, sometimes I just help myself:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/68/3b/ab/683babe982d3474a5690a0f11460672c.jpg



Traingeekboy
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Wow, that is some really good driving.

Michael M
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While I was working on the Bloated Goat I decided that Morrison Borax needed a small office.





Just a basic affair made out of balsa. 

The door is about 6' 3" and the office is 7' 6" by 9',
and you can see how the two-foot gauge borax car kinda gets dwarfed.

The walls turned out a little un-square. 
I almost pulled it apart to re-do it but decided to leave it alone. 
Almost every building is not quite square.

Really need to get back to working on the new yard at San Miguel. 
And my 2-6-0 needs some attention also.


Traingeekboy
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You just gave me an idea to build an outhouse and put a sign over the door that says: Office.




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Judging from the size it will then be a six- instead of a two-holer.

Would be fine for some BS - eh - team sessions.




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Hi Michael  :mex:



I like the idea of two 'competing' saloons ^^ on either side of the railroad tracks into town !  [toast]

T :cool: :cool:  C :cool: :cool: L  copy of the 'Bloated Goat' sign, from the book cover !!  :cb:

Nice looking scene coming together there.  :thumb:




I'm not sure why everyone's trying to 're-purpose' your nice new office ?  :us: L:   ???  ;)



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Michael M
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The sign was hand drawn using a white ink pen, and the pole was just a toothpick.
The building still needs to get a bit of weathering.

Across the street (kinda where the camera is) I'm planning on both a Sheriff and Marshall's offices. 
Need to keep an eye on all the drinking going on.



Michael M
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I picked up one of these small/tiny players off of fleabay for about $7. 

As you can see it has a USB port on the side. 
I figured out how to download music and create a playlist and put it on a flash drive. 

The sound is pretty good for such a small unit.


Michael M
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I found this while wandering through the toy aisle at a local Walgreens.





It measures about 1.25" wide by 1.5" long and about 7/8" high. 
Not sure what I'll do with it yet.  Maybe some kind of ore cart or shop cart or something.
It'll need a new paint job.  But, for a $1.19 plus tax no big investment.


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I picked up a couple of Mantua switches for like $3.00 each.  Very similar to the old Atlas switches.





Don't know if you can make out the writing on the back of the package.





The first line says, "March 27th,1959"
The second line says, "Simmonds - Chester, Pa"
On the far right there is a "1.01."  Maybe the original price?

60 years old and still in the original package!


W C Greene
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On the old switches...prices may be similar for these products.





An ad from Oct. 1948 MODEL RAILROADER.
Atlas was selling their RTR switch for $2.25 wye, #'s 4 & 6, $2.50 for a #8.
Could be close to the same prices.
BTW, I found this ancient MR and had to have it since I was born in...Oct. 1948. Golly gee.
However, at today's prices, with the price of a 36" stick of Micro Engineering code 83 or 100 rail,
you could make your own switch and come out ahead with some rail left over!

                         Woodie


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" 60 years old and still in the original package ! "


Hi Michael  :wave:


I actually find myself often liking ol' vintage $4!7, better than the 'new' gear !  :old dude:


I hope that vintage switch is finding a good home on the N.I.& E.R.R. !!  :mex:



:moose:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Those Mantua switches are destined for the new yard at San Miguel. 
After I make a little more progress I'll post some photos.

The Mantua #4 is very similar to the Atlas #4. 
Some measurements show that the Mantua is really more like a #4.5.
 
I rolled the On30 2-6-0 through the switch a few times and seems to take it just fine.


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Fooling around on the salt flats to see if I can get the right look.





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Would the salt encourage any type of corrosion on the rails?



Michael M
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I tried a small patch with real salt and it didn't turn out well at all. 
Real salt would probably cause some corrosion issues. 

I'm using some very fine grain sand,
like the stuff you use in sand art, to represent salt. 


I also have much courser material that I use to represent borax.

Once I finish laying track to the borax dump at San Miguel,
and can get back to some real operations hauling borax.


Michael M
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Recently I was reading a modeling article somewhere out there on the Internet,
and the writer was talking about using coupons, at places like Michael's, Jo-Anns, and Hobby Lobby.

I've never been very big on using coupons for much of anything, but I figured what-the-heck. 
I needed some brass and figured I would stop by Hobby Lobby on my way home the next day. 
I went to Hobby Lobby's website and printed out a 40% off coupon. 
The package of brass I bought retailed for $3.99, but only cost me $2.39 (plus tax) with my coupon.

So, if you are like me, and need to stop by one of these places for some supplies,
why not save a buck or two and get a coupon. 
All these stores have neat tools, doodads and stuff.


W C Greene
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I agree with you.
Matter of fact, the can of Testor's Dullcote (now made by Rust-O-Leum)
costs close to $6 at the "train shop" but is $3.99 at Hobby Lobby...that's without a coupon!
Nope, I don't have any financial stake in HL,
except that they get some of my anti-social security money occasionally.
Nope, they don't have any On30 (1:35n2) trucks or detail parts,
but then NEITHER does the train store! Go figger!

Woodie


Michael M
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Been trying to make some progress on the turntable. 

Some of you may have been following my thread Turntable 'Lazy-Susan'

https://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=8302&forum_id=20&page=1










It's been overcast this weekend with rain, wind and cold.  Unusual for May. 

Makes it uncomfortable for trying to get much done outside.


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The New San Miguel Yard is ever so slowly coming together.





Yeah, it's a mess, but it's a work in progress.


Larry G
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Michael, your layout is developing nicely, as is you're turntable.
I suspect that most peoples layouts are a messy work in progress, I know mine sure is.
Larry Gant

Michael M
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Needed a little diversion from track laying.





San Miguel needed a Boot Hill to bury undesirables and unknowns. 
A few grave markers made from some scrap balsa.

There really was a 'Hooch' Simpson. 
In a drunken state he killed a poplar merchant and banker,
Jim Arnold, in Skidoo. 
He was lynched three days later. 
A reporter over in Independence heard of the incident,
and traveled to Skidoo a few days later. 
The miners dug up the body of Hooch, dusted him off,
and hung him again so the reporter could take a picture.

Life was both simpler and sometimes short in the Old West.


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That's hilarious! 

I love stories like that.



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The turntable looks great.

I am very impressed with it.

Michael M
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A few view shots of the layout:









Still a lot to do.


Last edited on Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 04:00 am by Michael M

W C Greene
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Damn cool! I'm gonna steal your Christmas tree light idea, I can use more lights.

Woodie

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Woodie,
Go right ahead. 

I use the large bulbs like C7 or C9.  I use the white lights for daytime. 
I'm slowly getting some florescent lights up also. 

But I also put up a few strings of blue lights to represent nighttime. 

Everything in plugged into a few surge protector strips,
so with a flick of a switch or two I have daylight or night.

Plan on installing some lights in the buildings too. 


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Every western town needs a Boot Hill.

Michael M
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Mining operations always seem to have a lot of junk laying around. 
Morrison Borax is no exception. 

This is stuff I find for the most part. 
The rustier the better. 


Traingeekboy
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I was poking around on your layout build discussion again. I just do that on people's layout threads as a way to relax and get ideas.

And my work life is too busy lately to be able to do any modeling, thus I live through everyone else's great moments.

I think this is my favorite shot. It really shows how even a tiny layout can be visually interesting.

Last edited on Tue Jun 18th, 2019 06:50 pm by Traingeekboy

Si.
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Hi Chaps  :wave:



Michaels original Whiskey Flats section was a  C :cool: :cool: L  start to his 'Empire' !  :shocked:


N I C E !  trackplan.  :thumb:
Continuous-run + switching, doubling up as the 'Mainline' for future expansion.  :brill:

Not bad for 2ft sq. ? I seen to recall the size as.  L:


C :cool: :cool: L  buildings too.



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Michael M
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Thanks all.

The original section was 28" x 30" (had to go measure it). 
Peco track and switches. 
Something simple to start with. 

The Whiskey Junction station is gone. 
Didn't like the high-peaked roof or the corrugated roofing. 
Now there is just a sign and a small platform. 

I cut down the roof on the station so that it wasn't so high,
and replaced the roof with better corrugated metal roofing. 
Now it's a small storage building.





Number 8 doing some switching in the San Miguel yard.  Testing out the newly laid track.





Still have two more track to lay on the left.





Some switching at Manly Siding.


Michael M
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Started work on Scotty's Salt mill. 
The small opening in front will be a window, and the large ones will be for loading cars.
Just two walls so far... wanted to get an idea of how it's going to look.

Ever notice how things look good on paper, but not so much in reality? 
Got to add some room in front so I can make the building wider. 
Oh, nubbins.


Traingeekboy
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What did you do for weathering on that loco and car?




Michael M
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The weathering was with light brown and tan acrylics mixed with alcohol. 
Just kinda slopped it on. 

Others on here get very detailed with their weather which I admire,
but I just don't have the patience. 

I take into consideration that the NI&E is located,
in southwest Nevada & eastern California...
basically desert. 

And, that it mainly hauls borax and salt,
both of which are pretty much white in color. 

The equipment is either second or third-hand or home built stuff. 

The line does have one rule,
that any train operating out on the main, such as it is,
must carry a water car with it. 
Don't want to break down out in the middle of the desert without water.


Michael M
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Been working making my own rust.



Here's a jar of rust made from used Brillo pads.

Traingeekboy
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I applaud your fortitude in making your own.

I have been thinking along the same lines as this.

I already have jars of simulated dirt made from, wait for it - Dirt!

I am also collecting small tree branches to use as lumber, or even as is for debris.


Michael M
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I also add small bits and pieces of metal to the jars that I find along the way. 
Just let everything rust up together. 

Occasionally I'll stir everything up with an old screwdriver.
 
I don't think anything looks better than the 'real' thing. 
'Real' dirt for dirt; 'real' rust for rust.


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Making more progress on Scotty's Salt plant.
 
Still need to install posts along the left side, and more rafters on the roof. 
Eventually it will have wood siding, and a corrugated metal roof. 
A small tramway will enter the door with small rail cars carrying raw salt into the plant.


Michael M
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Earthquakes

Considering the recent earthquake of 6.9 this evening,
I was pondering the possibility of including earthquakes either as a scenic feature
(earth slides, crooked track) or in operations (track blockage).

Back in 1952 the Southern Pacific suffered damage at Tehachapi,
and had to re-route trains over the Coast Line.


Steven B
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Shake it up baby, twist and shout. 

You've had a few.

:w:



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We have earthquakes in Australia as well.

The road and track made a sudden six foot increase in height.

........Peter.





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For those of us, like me, that sometimes lay some crooked track,

at least we have a reasonable excuse...  earthquakes!



Michael M
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Been reading Ghost Towns of the American West by Robert Silverberg. 

The author wrote "Silver City was the most durable of a group of mining camps in Idaho's Owyhee Basin, west of Boise. 

A Canadian trader gave the Owyhee River its name in memory of two of his employees who were killed on its banks;
they came from Hawaii, and that was the best job of spelling he could do."


Silverberg also took some excerpts from the Silver City Avalanche.
 
One dated February 3, 1866 read;
According to an old woman's saying that "bread is the staff of life, but whiskey is life itself" we are out of "life" just now,
though there is flour enough to meet present needs.


Placerville, California was originally known as Old Dry Diggins, Dry Diggings, and then Hangtown. 
The name Hangtown came about because of the hanging of three men in 1849. 
The more friendlier name of Placerville was adopted in 1854.


Life was interesting in the Old West.


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Well now those tracks look like a heck of a ride! 

Maybe like Thunder Mountain at Disney!


Michael, I do like the history of the Early American West,

which is why I've chosen to go back to my fondest period. 


People think that American Westerns are fanciful,

well, they don't quite touch the humor of the people of the time. 


Read some Fred Hart, the Editor of the Reese River Reveille (Sazerac Liars Club),

or Dan Dequille of the the Territorial Enterprise,

and of course don't forget Mark Twain (Roughing It),

humor infused the Far West.


:P


Michael M
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Steve,

I've read much of Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain). 
His stories are both interesting and humorous.

One of his stories was about going prospecting with three other comrades. 
They bought a wagon and a pair of worn out horses with the idea of hauling all their supplies,
and they wouldn't have to walk the 200 miles they were going. 
They ended up walking the entire distance since their team could barely pull the wagon.
Took them a month to go the distance.


Michael M
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The Roundhouse Gang had another swap meet in San Bernardino today. 

Just never know what you are going to find.










The two tractors are Tootsie. 
The figures are about two inches tall and are metal except for the blue guy which is plastic. 
The two red drums will be for some kind of fuel storage.
 
One tractor will probably be used to haul salt or borax. 
The other will be used to haul logs on a future extension that services a saw mill.


Michael M
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'bout done with Scotty's Salt.










Still need to work on the floor, and add some piping inside to make it look busy. 

Was planning on adding some 9mm (N gauge) track, to represent an long unused tramway.


Traingeekboy
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Scotty's salt looks good.



Michael M
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My love for rusty stuff continues to grow.

One person suggested soaking old Brillo pads in vinegar instead of water. 
It's supposed to speed up the process. 
Gonna have to try that.

I took the adjustment dial thingy off the bottom of a deodorant stick,
sprayed it with a quick coat of light brown paint,
and dropped it into a jar of real rust powder. 

This is how it turned out.





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When using Brillo pads or steel wool pads (Aussie lingo) add water to the vinegar.
Vinegar on it's own doesn't work to well, but adding water gets the process going.

Best to use a plastic container, not metal, let the process finish.
(when pads have dissolved)

You then have a solution for dipping wood into, to get a weathered look,
or let the solution evaporate, then you have real rust powder.

I have used it on many jobs and it works very well.


BE SURE TO USE THE VINEGAR PROCESS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA

AS IT GIVES OFF HYDROGEN GAS



...Peter


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



5 moose :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: are LOOSE !



Lookin' good at Scottys.  :thumb:

How much real-estate does Scottys footprint take up ?  ???



:cool:



Si.


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Si.

The main building is 8" by 9" with a 2" by 2" add-on shed.
It has a covered track on the far side, so the building looks bigger than it really is. 
The peak of the roof is 6.5". 

The shed helps to break up what would have been just a plain wall.





I used a dark brown poster board for the roofing felt. 
Weathered and sealed. 
Time will tell how well it holds up.

The siding is long enough to hold two box cars along with a short water car. 
The salt is shipped in large sacks which get transferred at the interchange in San Miguel.


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This is the extant of my planning for Scotty's Salt. 

Never been much into making exact plans;
it's more of some rough measurements and pray.


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Praying? 

Maybe you needa church too? 

Nice work Michael.


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Maybe I could squeeze in a small church somewhere.

Saloons were much more prevalent and more often frequented in western towns. 
Bodie, with a population of some 7,000, had approximately 65 saloons. 
Rhyolite reportedly had 53 saloons. 

Drinking seemed to be much more important than praying way back then.


Michael M
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Working on the floor for Scotty's Salt. 

Installing a very narrow gauge tramway to haul salt. 
An N scale 4-bay hopper is almost as long as my borax car. 
N gauge track measures out to about 12" in 1/35 scale. 

I'll have to make a couple of jimmies to salt into the plant.





I could even make it operational, although it would just be a simple out-and-back affair.


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" An N scale 4-bay hopper is almost as long as my borax car "



Hi Michael  :mex:



Nooooo pleeeeeaaaaase dooooont !  :td:



Whilst I am a BIG FAN of carefully selected BASH victims ...  :P

... this is SURELY ? always going to look EXACTLY like what it is ...

... a MASSIVELY UNDERSCALE Class-A road hopper-car.  :f:


If you binned the trucks & used 4-wheels ... it might help.  :old dude:

If you widened its insanely narrow width ... possibly a TAD more credible.  :us:

But it's also WAY too long ... & not high enough either !  L:



I'm up for pursuing all sorts of crazy $4!7 ... But this ?  ???

I just can't deal with VERY out of scale stuff ...

... It just KILLS the illusion that all the DECENT models have created.  :f:


You'll be a GENIUS  :brill:  if you can get it to look any good !  ;)



:pimp:



Si.


Michael M
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Si,

Everything will be okay. 
The N scale hopper is just for track testing. 

I plan on scratch building a couple of 4-wheel cars to haul the salt. 
They'll probably end up looking more like mine cars. 
Maybe 24" or 30" wide and like 36" or 48" long. 

I've got a scale mule that I could use to pull the cars.


W C Greene
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You could make a little mining loco to haul the cars,
I agree with Si...build some "scale" cars for this operation.
If I had one of those nice little new Bachmann N scale diesel switchers,
I might consider something like this also.
Have fun...

Woodie


Michael M
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Woodie,

Yeah, I've got my eye out for one of those little N scale switchers.
 
Making a 1/35 scale body for it might be a bit of a challenge,
but could be a neat little critter.


Right now I want to get the tramway trackage done,
so that I can get Scotty's Salt building permanently installed,
and finish the scenery in that area.

Soooo much to do.


Si.
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" The N scale hopper is just for track testing "



Hi Michael  :mex:



O.M.G. ! ...  :shocked:
... You nearly gave me a heart attack, thinking you were BASHing it !  :boogie:


I found this drawing on Google Images a while back ...  :old dude:





... there might be some useful ideas to be had from it.  L:

The inside framing could be  C :cool: :cool: L  in 2' gauge.



:)



Si.


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Those would be fun in a larger scale. 

Some Basswood and styrene....

hmm


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



I considered the possibility of a 2nd smaller gauge, for 'mine cart' sorta things.

18" gauge made sense to me, but is really not all that narrower than 2' 

Having something operational, rather than just 'scenic', also made sense.



So in the end, after toying with 18" or maybe even 12" (N-gauge) ...

... I thought, why not just try & make THE ABSOLUTE SMALLEST possible 2' cars ...

... fitted with the same couplers, at the same height, as my 'mainline' cars.



I toyed with some fairly compact, ancient diecast 'Tri-ang' 4-wheeler bogies ...

... but to get the ultimate 'narrow' look with a 2' gauge ...

... inside-framed axle-bearings, would allow for more of a contrast to larger 2' cars.



Also HO sized wheelsets might add to this compact look ...

... as another contrast to the normal 1/2" On30 wheelsets most of my cars use.

Being able to hookup ultra-small 4-wheelers to a 'regular' loco on 2' track is a nice idea.





Something along the lines of your blue 4-wheeler ^^ tankcar.  L:
Small slight frame, short wheelbase & a compact hopper/gon. on top for salt.  :pop:



The drawing I Posted was about the best I could find at the time ...

... as some kinda vague guide or pattern, as to what the dimension 'might' be.



:)



Si.


Ken C
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Michael

A couple of N scale dump cars to consider :us: for the Scotty's Salt works.

Left car is an ARONLD N dump.

Right car is from MINITRIX.
 
Which came as a set of two, with a working dumper.

The set I have was sold by Model Power.





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A definite possibility.

I'll have to keep an eye open and see what I can find at the next train swap meet.

Michael M
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I had a thought.

Not sure if this should go here or under tools, but here it goes.


While on one of my frequent trips to Home Depot, I picked up a package of these braces,
with the idea that they would help in keeping corners square,
when gluing two sides of a structure together.
 
They only cost a couple of bucks, and come in various sizes.





Traingeekboy
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Michael M wrote:
While on one of my frequent trips to Home Depot, I picked up a package of these braces,
with the idea that they would help in keeping corners square,
when gluing two sides of a structure together.
 
They only cost a couple of bucks, and come in various sizes.


I've seen modelers use a metal surface,
and magnets to hold things in place while glue dries.

This seems like an interesting idea actually.
You could take two of those and bolt them together about an inch apart,
to act as a wall stand/holder.


Michael M
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I also use several 1/2" and 3/4" nuts as weights to hold things in place.

Home Depot parking lots are a good place to find rusted bits and pieces for junk piles.

You use what you can find.

Michael M
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Making progress on Manly Siding/Salt Flats.










David Laughery
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Michael,

Good idea of the two "L" brackets.

When I was gluing DPM buildings in N scale,
I would glue two walls together with each of the two brackets.

When dried the four walls made a perfect square.

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Here's a view of the west end of the layout.

Michael M
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Whipped up a small car to carry salt to Scotty's. 

Doesn't roll very well. 
Obviously some design flaw, but will do for now.


Michael M
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David Laughery
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Very nice scene, Michael.

Is that the chassis of a Tootsie-Toy Caterpillar in the background?
I have one to use on the Fish Head layout someday.

Nice modeling.

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Dave,

Good eye. 

Yes that caterpiller is a Tootsie. 

I picked up a couple of them at a swap meet. 

Think I paid $3-4 each for them.


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Good deal  :rah:

I saw one advertised on the net for $175!!!

I was going to modify mine, but now am having second thoughts.

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Dave,

I've been going to a swap meet at the San Bernardino Santa Fe train station,
put on by the Roundhouse Gang. 
They do it 2-3 times a year. 
I've gotten some really good deals there.
 
Haven't been to any on the major train shows in the last few years. 
$10-12 bucks to get in, plus $8-10 for parking. 
That starts to eat into the modeling budget.

I'll have to check ebay and see what these Tootsies are going for. 
I picked up some old metal figures for fifty-cents each that work well in 1/35 scale. 
They're a little banged up but a little painting will fix that.


Michael M
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A borax run.





Made a run to the borax tipple at Manly Siding.





Here is Number 8 doing some switching at San Miguel. 










Tom Ward
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Michael

I grew up in an area where the nearest town was similar to San Miguel. 
It was called Four Corners. 

Had one gas station, a post office/drug store, a grocery store with wood flooring, and three bars. 
I got served beer there when I was fourteen. 

The town claimed their main source of income was agriculture,
but I'm pretty sure it was alcohol consumption.

- Tom


Michael M
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Here's a photo of a worker from Morrison Borax hauling a load of dynamite in his pickup.





Hope the crate doesn't fall out of the truck bed and make a crater in the landscape.


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Michael M wrote: 



Hope the crate doesn't fall out of the truck bed and make a crater in the landscape.


Did he buy it from the dry good store, "Dewey, Cheatham & Howe"?

As for dropping dynamite, it won't explode when dropped,
unless it was poorly stored and the nitro was 'sweating' out of the casing and filler.


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Lee

A good chuckle with the name of the explosive's on the box,

never thought of a name like that.  :bg:


Michael M
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Work progresses in San Miguel.





On the right I haven't laid rails yet since it will be a workshop,
and not sure just where the track needs to be.

In the distance there is a switch coming off to the left. 
This will lead to some dual gauge and a freight transfer platform. 

The dual gauge will continue along the left where the bare wood is.


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Michael,

I really like the track work at San Miguel.
Looks like the beginnings of a really good scene.

Tom


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Thanks Tom,

It's all a work in progress. 

At least I can run some trains,
even if it is just an out-and-back operation.

Just making up a short train at San Miguel,
running it out to Manly Siding, doing set-outs and pick-ups,
and running back to San Miguel can take 30-45 minutes. 

If I remember correctly, some narrow gauge lines in their waning days,
only ran one or two trains a day.


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Never on Sunday. 

Most ran one day down, one day back.   :slow:



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It seems to me that vehicles in the larger scales seem devoid of life, if there are no drivers or passengers.
 
So I went to work on some figures for a pickup.





I took a couple of those green plastic army men.
 
Cut off their bottoms, sanded of the military gear, and re-positioned their arms. 

Some paint, and glued them into place.





That's Stanley in the yellow shirt driving, with Ollie in the red shirt.

Hoping the dynamite doesn't go off by itself.


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Michael, you've inspired my taking a look at my vehicles and fitting some drivers.

It should be easy for a convertible.

Regards, Dave L.


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I was right. 

It was easy for my Maxwell. 

Local cops might not like his lifting a mug while driving. 

Regards, Dave L.


Attachment: IMG_6208.JPG (Downloaded 84 times)

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Dave,

The convertible looks great! 
The figure adds some life. 

For hard tops the figures don't have to be anything special,
since they can't been seen very well.


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Thanks again for the inspiration.

Regards, Dave L.



Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



Looks GREAT !  :thumb:



I can't help but wonder, if I was driving around with a HUGE case of dynamite ...

... whether I might just clean the windscreen a bit & bolt up the tail gate !!  :shocked:  :P



:w:



Si.


Michael M
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Woodie suggested that I might want to add some motive power to the salt tramway. 

I do have an N scale engine,
that I could probably bash into some kind of funky 1/35 scale 12" gauge engine. 

But, until I can muster up the courage to tackle that kind of project,
the tramway still needed something to move those salt cars around.





Mule power! 

The mule came from a 20 Mule Team Borax set,
the wrangler was a German WWII soldier,
and the guy on the far right is an unknown figure I found at a swap meet.


David Laughery
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Love this scene.
Nicely done.

I remember those Borax kits with all the mules.
Had a few but never finished one.

Painting models was tough back in those days.
All we had were enamels.

Regards, Dave L.


Larry G
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Enamel paints, remember them well.

This reminds me of one of my pet peeves, shiny figures.

Even with flat finish paints being available since the 1950s,
I still see shiny figures here and there.

Larry G 


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Larry,

I used flat finish paints,
so not sure why the figures have a little shine to them. 

Need to work on that.


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Micheal,

I wasn't referring to your figures,
Just in general, hobby wide.

Sometimes it's just the way the light hits the subject.

The original Floquill Paints were great,
but the remaining paints are just so-so in my estimation. 

Larry G


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Michael M wrote:
I used flat finish paints,
so not sure why the figures have a little shine to them. 

Need to work on that.


A flash can reflect light off even the dullest of surfaces.


Si.
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If the mattest of absolute mattest finishes is required ...  :old dude:

... accept nothing less than the awesome matt ENAMELS, made by 'Humbrol'.


You will NOT find a more non-reflective modeling paint in the Universe !  :s: :shades:


They also have SUPER DENSE high-quality very-fine permanent-pigments ... 

... on par with ultra-expensive 'artists' paints, but without the shine of linseed oil.  :cool:



:moose:



Si.


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I just gave the figures a very thin wash of India ink. 

I'll take another photo and see how it looks.



Michael M
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After a wash with thinned India Ink.

The first photo is without a flash.





Second photo with a flash.





Using a flash seems to make the scene too harsh for me.

Still a bit of glare on the figures. 
Maybe it will get better after they 'age' a little outside.


Michael M
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Since I'm finally getting around to laying down some dual-gauge trackage,
I figured that I'll need some cars to move around. 

Thinking about building a dual-gauge idler car,
to switch both 24" gauge and 42" gauge freight cars around with.

Anyone ever build one before? 


Michael M
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Making progress in the dual-gauge trackage.



    






Here is the link to my dual-gauge stub switch:

https://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=8490&forum_id=20&page=1


David Laughery
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