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'Humboldt & Toiyabe Railway' - 1881
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 Posted: Sat Jul 13th, 2019 01:17 am
161st Post

Joined: Sun Oct 20th, 2013
Location: Near Melbourne Victoria, Australia
Posts: 497

I like it, some very fine work,

well done and more pics please.


I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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 Posted: Sun Jul 14th, 2019 11:22 am
162nd Post
Steven B

Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 465
Woodie, Doug & Peter,

Thank you very much. 
I work rather slowly unfortunately at 20 minutes here and there.
The house project takes most of my free time. 
I finished (well except the for the door) her pantry. 
I am halfway through a new bathroom
(which I have to finish before my dad arrives to visit September),
just cut in one new window in the bedroom (one more to go) and reside the house. 
All of this while working, ugh work just gets in the way of anything and everything.

Meanwhile "Eastern Nevada" sits full of stuff that needs to either visit the dump,
or be moved into the house when it is done. 
Not much in the way of scenery or layout for a while, much to my displeasure.

I outlined the next few projects on the car in my post. 
I am pretty excited as I see an end in sight for her. 
I am very happy with where it is going. 
What kinds of pictures would you like?  

I also picked up a B'mann "Side Door Caboose" and found a "duck bill" roof on Shapeways. 
After considering modifications to it, I found I really couldn't improve upon it much. 
I thought about painting it, then thought... nah, it's fine,
besides the windows are glued in pretty tight,
and that project would become tough with possible breakage. 
I'll post some picts. of that as soon as I get it going to a more completed state.

Next BIG project is sitting in pieces. 
I've been collecting parts to "Masonize" a Forney. 
The "Onward", Mason's first Bogie, was actually used on the Eureka & Palisades,
and in the construction of the Nevada Central for a time,
before it went off to Utah to construct railroads there. 
It was, conveniently, an 0-4-4. 
So it will become locomotive #3, it was renumbered from #1 after construction.

Tell me what you want to see and I'll get some more pictures posted.

Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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 Posted: Mon Jul 15th, 2019 02:03 am
163rd Post
Steven B

Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 465
Another Winning Combination.  

Here we have the project that I launched while watching glue dry.
I was working on Combine 1s leaning problem. 
Found that the plastic tube that I used to mount the truck had come loose. 
No problem. 

I also decided to hedge my bet and built a couple of "list" pads on the frame above the truck. 
They sit up tight behind the truck and I painted them the same color, they turned invisible. 
Truck still turns freely and there isn't going to be any listing to port any more. 

Next task...  Add lighting and the ceiling over the platforms.

While working on this problem, and waiting,
this second "Side Door Caboose" that I found a duckbill roof for was asking to be built.
This will run on trains to the mines at Yankee Blade. 
It is a small car for small turns and grades. 
I would really like it to have a different look.

I picked up a few items from Keith Wiseman. 
These were some improved end rails,
and I ditched the ladder ends that came with the Bachmann car. 
I also got a new stack for the stove. 

I am still trying to figure out what trucks to use under it. 
I may keep the factory ones... I'll ask for opinions here. 
I may go with MacCloud, Carter 3'7",
since much of my stuff will be Carter Brothers based. 
But maybe I am looking for something different. 
Billmeyer & Small? 
I don't know.

I want to paint the thing, but knocking those windows out will be a chore. 
I want to paint it a burgundy or maroon, but the windows will be a time killer. 
So, again, I will ask for some thoughts of anyone who wants to chime in.
I ripped out some of the caboosey interior parts that made no sense for a combine. 
I also added a couple of inches to the letter board (what I worked on today)
so that my lettering will fit nicely. 
Also shaved off the cast on side door grab and added a bended wire one. 
Somewhere, around this mess I have some Grandt Line combine stirrups,
that I want to change out. 

At any rate, that about does it for the day... er... week.  :time:

Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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 Posted: Thu Aug 1st, 2019 04:09 pm
164th Post
Steven B

Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 465
Getting on the Rails.

I think this project is complete.  :glad: 

I had a few hours and worked through the list of things that needed to be finished or repaired. 
The ends are done, the brake levers are back in place, the chains are in and clerestory was finished. 
I am pretty happy with it. 

Photos are amazing things. 
One end looked higher than the other... and I'll be danged, it is.
Huh, wonder how that happened. 

It must have been when the plug fell out of the truck mount when I was fixing the "list."
Looks to be off somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/16 of an inch when I put the coupler height gauge up to it. 
No big deal. 
I can fix it probably with a washer.  

One of the things that I did not add were the truck chains. 
I am not sure that these won't interfere with operations.
So until I have some place to try this out, I am going to leave them off.  

You will also have noticed that I have Link & Pin couplers on the car. 
I picked some up from Foothill, that use Kadee #5 boxes. 
The idea, for operations, is to use #5 Kadee couplers as my ops couplings. 
(I take Woody's experience with great thought)

NOBODY apparently wants to use L&P when switching. 
This will be a big "ugh" when I get to some locos. 
I am going to have to find some mountable #5 heads,
that can slip into the pilot area with those big ol' wooden pilots that were used back then. 
It is going to be a bit of playing around and might not look super cool.

Anyway, it's nice to have this done.

More when I get the #4 Combine done.
It is getting close, a quick build. 
I am just trying to find a nice set of trucks that might be a little more correct,
instead of those freight trucks that came with it.

Next on deck... My Masonized Forney.   :boogie: 

Can't wait to see how this turns out... 


Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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 Posted: Fri Aug 2nd, 2019 10:30 am
165th Post
Tom Ward

Joined: Tue Nov 14th, 2017
Location: Florida USA
Posts: 673
Steven -

You did a beautiful job on this. Really nice. 

The shorter combine is also looking great. 

I really like the lines of both of these.

- Tom

Tom Ward

"When I die I want to go quietly in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror like his passengers."
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 Posted: Fri Aug 2nd, 2019 11:36 pm
166th Post
W C Greene

Joined: Fri May 4th, 2007
Location: Royse City, Texas USA
Posts: 8253
Really fine work, reminds me of the old Nevada Central combine.
The l&p's are neat BUT unless you are a glutton for punishment, as I was for 20 years,
INSTALL Kadee #5's and actually operate your fine new car.


It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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 Posted: Mon Aug 5th, 2019 12:52 am
167th Post
Steven B

Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 465
Tom, thank you. 

That means something coming from a guy,
building a roundhouse and engine shop like the one that you have. 
Wow, is all I can say.
I hope when I get to mine, I can do as well as you. 
You've inspired me to plan a little better, a facility to service my stable.

Woodie, yeah.

I listen and read these forums. 
I got what you said loud and clear about operating. 
I have this set of L&Ps strictly for photos.
I may go with HO "scale head" couplers for making it less distinct. 
As a former HO rivet counter,
I've got a bunch of those too and they operated well.


I've been looking at the new combine trucks. 
The ones that came with the Bachmann set up are freight trucks. 
A rough ride for the well heeled mine owners of the Yankee Blade mines. 

Even if a shorter car is needed to negotiate the turns,
transportation is still a thing of beauty,
beating the mule trains by a long shot.

The trucks that came originally with Combine 1 were an option,
as I changed them out with the Carter version. 
But they were too long of a wheel base for the car and looked rather ungainly. 

So I dug into my stash,
and lo and behold there were a set of old MDC "Old Timer" passenger trucks,
from a long gone "Overland" kit.


Well geeze, these have about the same wheel base as the Bachmann freight truck. 
And OH!  LOOKIE!  The wheels are a drop in fit. 
DANG, how cool is that?

That was so easy, I need a Staples Button.   :brill:  

So I had to drill out the mounting hole,
and it slipped right over the mounting pin on the frame.
The car rides a little higher,
but that is ok, as I am using On3 standards for coupler height,
and have to raise each car up.
Once I get to a point where I am mounting couplers,
I may have to file them down some,
but it makes it an easier starting point.

Clipped the talgo coupler pads off the truck,
and stuck it underneath to see what's going on and how it looked. 

Not bad for a cheap date.

So I did the other one.

And then set it up for comparison next to Combine 1. 
Short, but the dimensions kind of look right. 
I guess the HO ones are heavy duty for HO, but rather nice in On30. 
I am very happy. 
Sometimes things just go my way, I revel in these moments.  :sad: 

Not much time to work on things lately,
but this has been a stumbling block and now we will move on as time permits.

Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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 Posted: Fri Aug 9th, 2019 01:54 am
168th Post
Tom Harbin

Joined: Sat Sep 1st, 2018
Location: Arizona USA
Posts: 305
I can't wait to see what you do with the side-door caboose.

I have one sitting in my sell pile, but you may just change my mind for me.


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 Posted: Fri Aug 9th, 2019 03:20 am
169th Post

Joined: Thu Feb 23rd, 2012
Location: London
Posts: 5617

Howdy Steven  :cb:

Almost certainly a 5 mooser model ...  :old dude:

... but I think it should receive the special 5 posh passengers award !  [whack] [whack] [whack] [whack] [whack]

A classy coach for sure.  :java: :thumb:

I hope the conductor is enforcing the R.R.s 'No Boots On Seats' policy ...  :mex:

... unless the passenger is  LEE VAN CLEEF  of course !  :w:




' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
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 Posted: Sun Aug 18th, 2019 01:21 am
170th Post
Steven B

Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 465
Thanks Si. 

We here at the H&T Rwy do try to provide the best service,
to our past, present and future nabobs, even Angel Eyes. 
Let's see how we can get them up to the Yankee Blade mines or better yet, down.

Been hammering on the house, well, screwing around really, about 25lbs plus of screws.
Had to rebuild two walls on the back (newest about 1950s) addition. 


It has been a grind and not much modeling going on except for 5 minutes here, 5 minutes there. 
Today, I picked up the debris, all the windows and doors are in, the walls are rock solid,
until after I die anyway, and it was time to reset for doing the eves. 
Yes there is rot there too. 
Hey, Mr. SAWZALL!!! 


But the house is wrapped up like a birthday present,
and is awaiting the siding, insulation in many parts and sheetrock. 
Dang, I'm bushed. 
But I played around with my newest combine for a couple of hours today...

Hit the Brakes!

I do like these MDC trucks,
whoda thunk that they'd be so hugeish that maybe they're too big for HO? 

I got them under the car and I was looking at them. 
There was something very wrong, but what could it be?!  

Yeah, they're not like high toned rivet counter trucks, but hey, I'm in recovery right?
Then it suddenly dawned on me. 
This is a MouNtaInoUs railroad, and they ain't got no brakes!  


How the heck are those little guys supposed to stop in Austin on the way down? 
They'd be half way to Battle Mountain before the car slowed enough for the little dudes to get off!!! 


Well, thank you Mr. Kitts at Foothill Model Works, who had sold to me, in the past,
some wooden brake beams for some McCloud Trucks. 
They sure look snazzy and dang if the car can stop when the boys turn the crank! 

So from the the Howdedodat File:  :dt:

First of all keep in mind that these trucks are those "slippery" plastic jobbers,
that nothing (not even paint with handling) sticks to. 
So how to stick 'em on the ends so they don't fall off enroute to the high up mines? 
I had some scrap styrene and phosphor wire sitting on the bench and it hit me... 
I decided to bolt them on.

Get your parts together first.
Here we have the inside hanger. 
This beam goes towards the center of the car. 
The straight one goes to the outside. 
The bend in the iron accommodates the brake linkage, that comes from the center, to the trucks. 
The wire doesn't show up very well, but it is the back line that is not parallel to the lines on the cutting pad. 
How thick?  I dunno, nor care. 
The styrene is maybe 0.20 x 0.40?  Again, don't know, it was sitting there and it got used. 
I cut two little blocks off of the styrene about the width of the iron part of brake hanger.
The FMW parts are styrene too fortunately.

Glue the blocks to the iron bar at the closest point to the hangers.  

You can also glue the brake shoes on at the time if you choose to. 
DO NOT use tweezers to try and slip them into place. 
They'll launch quicker than a North Korean missile when rocket boy is watching. 
Don't ask. 


At this point grab a cuppa :java: and take time to visit one of the great facilities located here 
or walk away or look for little dudes who want to take a trip up the mountain.
Your glue has to dry COMPLETELY. 
Don't rush it, again don't ask how I know. 
Here are the dudes that I rounded up.  Straight ahead Woodland guys. 
I added a hat to the one guy as he looked like he needed some help. 
Nobody will be able to see easily into the car, so I didn't do the standard H&T Rwy overkill repaint on them.

Once the glue is dry find a drill bit that accommodates your wire size. 
Drill a hole in the block that you added. 
The block will sorta blend in to the beam and once painted will look a part of it. 
I had added the brake shoes so I overhung the shoes on my cutting board. 
I found that drilling in the upper center corner of the block allows it to catch the beam on the truck.

Here's both holes.  Not perfect, but they'll work.  :time:

Now's the trickiest part. 
No photos here because I needed a fourth hand to take a photo while fitting it. 
But line up the holes with the end of the truck so that they both catch. 
Make a mark for the first hole and drill into the the end of the truck beam. 
I drilled in about 3/16s of an inch. 
That's almost 5mm for y'all who measure in that ol' French system.
Test fit your wire. 
Lookie there, the other side lines up too!!   :glad:

Leave the wire in, line up the other side,
stick the drill bit into the other hole in the block that you drilled awhile ago,
and mark the end of the other side of the truck. 
Drill ye terriers drill, and blast, and fire... well maybe not that much.

I put some CA on the end of the wire after I removed it from the first hole. 
Not that CA will hold it, it won't, but it makes me feel better.


Then clip the wire, leaving a nub sticking out. 
This will look like a bolt and keeps the whole shootin' match from slipping off easier.
Then repeat the wire in the hole trick with CA for the other side.  
It is awfully hard to see that wire sticking out, but it is there.

This is what it looks like when trimmed up.

Badda Bing Badda Boom.  Brakes.  :Crazy:

Paint them in your favorite livery, and yes, I left off the levers...
I told you that I was in recovery, but I'll add some levers under the car,
based on drawings from my reprinted Mattias Forney book that I have showing these kinds of things,
and when I get there I will post on that.

Overall I think this made the trucks look a whole lotta betta.
I like it, with a nod to my crazy.


Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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