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Milocomarty
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Latest work in progress a German boxcar 1:32..







Faded the green with airbrush using Vallejo modelcolor white wash, thinned 50 /50.
Grimes are AK interactive paneliners for white and winter camouflage.
Dust so far AK interactive dust deposit brown earth deposit.
Roof is done with paneliner for white and winter camouflage dabbed with a make up sponge.
Streaking effects with a brush moistened in an odourless thinner..

Rod Hutchinson
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Nicely done Martin.

Herb Kephart
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Right On!

Herb

Milocomarty
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Thanks !!


A bit more work done on the DB boxcar, added more dust and grimes, darkened the roof a bit more with this AK paneliner wash for wintercamouflage. And used AMMO trackwash on the undercarriage with an overall wash, adding AK rust deposit dark and medium to the springs and surrounding area..touched up the riets with rust streaaks and dark brown wash for green vehicles..











Lee B
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GREAT work.
I don't use an airbrush to weather anything as some people make weathering look too even when they use one.
Your cars are very well done and have the 'random' look of real life in them.
I have a soft spot for German rolling stock, too, by the way.

Last edited on Mon Apr 4th, 2016 09:33 pm by Lee B

Milocomarty
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Almost everything is done by brush Lee, exept yhe first coat of translucent white to fade the green..

Lee B
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Martin,
I am not surprised to read that.
I love dry-brushing myself and sometimes go a little overboard...







-Lee

Last edited on Mon Apr 4th, 2016 09:38 pm by Lee B

Milocomarty
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Do have that problem often Lee, to much sometimes I can't stop adding layers..

Well I do have the next victim on the bench. Boy this ones small compared to the German boxcar. But a boxcar again and in this case its a Intermountain produced HO one.
First steps are not that exiting, just masking certain parts, fade lettering with a glass fiber pencil and give the car an overal spray with Vallejo modelcolor white wash in several thin layers to achieve this faded look. Sometimes I do think I go to far in fading and it looks awfull white but I believe the color enhances again with a wash of dark brown..and if not, I tested the paint underneath and can remove the whitewash with allejo airbrush cleaner, it does not attack the original paintjob..





Milocomarty
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Rethinking the faded effects. Tried another wash on the whitish side. Vallejo modelcolor wash rust, with some brown and white. Also mixed dark rust with brown and white and airbrushed it on to the sides to tone the white fade down but also tried it as a fade on the other side of the car. Original color shows on one piece of the data..

Faded white with a wash of rust/brown /white shows a more orange fade


rust/brown/white on the original color for a more redish fade..

Milocomarty
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Spend the day painting a sliding door, still some filters and washes to do..

Milocomarty
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It's not only grasses and weeds I'm doing. Also a bit of weathering,something I really like.In the spare hours I'm working on a couple of projects. Having some MBW Spur 1 / Gauge 1 cars on hand I made a start on 2 of them. First coats are the fades, using a mixture of Vallejo Acrylic washes. White with some drops of the original color. Roof and additional straaks with several AK interaktive and Ammo enamel washes. Bit of Panpastels on the roof to..











Herb Kephart
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Makes a great improvement, Martin !!


Herb

Lee B
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Yes, very good work!

Milocomarty
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Thanks guys !!

Well a little bit about the materials used. First layer with a wash to fade the color. I do not like plain whites on the redish boxcar tone so I used white combined with dark rust..



The roof is entirely done with an AK interactive paneliner in this case the one for wintercamouflage because I do like the somewhat greenish color..



Because this car is in serice for a short time I did cut back on the fades and stick with some plain dirt and streaks..cars in service dirty up don't they. Did use the AK interactive straking grime for panzer grey this time. The tone is more brownish..



Streaking and cleaning done with an odourless thinner..AK or Ammo doesn't matter wich brand..the are much softer then the ones in the DIY shop. You could buy one out of an artist range..





What I think is the advantage this enamel products have, they dry pretty fast but the can be worked on after they are dry. Even after a couple of hours. The door for instance I didn't like the looks so I went over it after the photo shoot. You can't do that with acrylics. Oils could be used but in this case I like the faster drying time of the enamel based paints..For now I do let them dry for 24 hours before I add another layer..Didn't shoot a picture of the looks of the door yet..

Lee B
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Martin, I really appreciate your listing the products you used. So few people do that.

Milocomarty
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You're welcome Lee..

Well with a brush dipped in odourless thiiner, tipped on a paper towel to have it just a bit moist I reworked the door I didn;t like..



Pretty happy with it now..so I worked my way around the car..both ends and the other side with the same AK product..





Because of the Europ signage and the fact the car is build in 1960 and only 4 years in service before they changed it in to UIC markings I didn't wanna overdo this one.
Lined it up with the "53 build car..



With AK interactive interior streaking effects I added some dirt to these aluminium colored panels..



Also pinwashed a couple of the rivets with the same stuff..



Taking AK's Shafts grease and Bearings I added some grease effect on the wheelpods..





That's it for now..

Milocomarty
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Sneak peak...0 scale.





test car, the second for a fothcoming article..

Lee B
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Milocomarty wrote:
Because of the Europ signage and the fact the car is build in 1960 and only 4 years in service before they changed it in to UIC markings I didn't wanna overdo this one.
Good point. With weathering, it is so easy to go further than you should.
My biggest challenge recently was weathering a coach to show it was very well used, but not too much so. That is much more difficult than it sounds, but you already have found that out for yourself.
Milocomarty wrote:
Taking AK's Shafts grease and Bearings I added some grease effect on the wheelpods..



WOW. I need to find some of that as I've never seen anything that has the grease look like that does!

Milocomarty
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Consider the two scale 1 project done, some final thingies added..maybe I can go a bit further but you have to stop at a time..



Added some graese to the puffers, AK burned jet engine pigment combined withe the shafts and bearings grease..





The other car I used a new Vallejo product for grease spills..





this looks ok to me to, same on the puffers combined with the burned jet engine pigment..





For the rest I darkened the steel frame a bit more on this car, has seen longer service. Using Panpastel raw umber extra dark..



Well that's it for this project, have 4 more to go so I start on 2 soon..
In the mean time I'm also working on a couple of 0 scale cars, from a German company called Brawa. Very nice and detailed and the come these screw couplers you just hae to add..



Pretty much a basic coat on this one using AK and Ammo trackrust primers. Sprayed on with and airbrush.
And now the pretty one, cool car but so yellow it hurts the eye.



You can see the factory yellow on the inside, faded it with a Vallejo white wash





Added a basic pin wash with an Ammo wash for DAK..bit on the brown dusty side..

That's it for today folks !!

Rod Hutchinson
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Hi Marty,

When you add the panel wash on the good's vans walls and roofs, is it large wide strips or similar to a pin wash prior to wiping with the thinner?

Last edited on Tue Jul 5th, 2016 02:21 pm by Rod Hutchinson

Rod Hutchinson
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Milocomarty wrote:
Spend the day painting a sliding door, still some filters and washes to do..



Martin, what were the steps on the sliding door.

Milocomarty
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Use a wide bruh on the roof, remove the excess with a wedged make-up sponge. Panels on the sides with pin wash and these painted lines wiped gently with a soft flat brush moistened in thinner..

Milocomarty
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Slow but steady progress, first layer on the sides is on, just a little detail to be added. Its a company car so it will be dirty but not neglected..just have to figure out what roof cover they used on a German G30..



Milocomarty
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Simple weathering with pinwashes, used an Athearn RtoR boxcar for this that I bought cheap on an expo.
Although the car had a nice green finish I'm a strong believer that paint fades rapidly oer time. So to start the fade.
Step 1: Used a mixture of Vallejo wash white and olive green to mix a light green color to fade, applied it with nd airbrush in several thin layers using the air out of the brush to speed dry the wash. I own a couple of double action brushes.
Step 2: Overall finish with a satin varnish (also Vallejo in this case)
Step 3: Start to pinwash on al the cravets, rivets and other deeper parts with a dark wash, used Ammo wash for Nato camouflage in this case.
Step 4: Remove the excess wash with a damp brush dipped in odourless thinner and dapped on a paper towel to remove the excess thinner. Clean the brush on the towel when needed
Step 5: Add streaks already by using a wide flat damp brush and wipe it gently over the surface.

Car is ready for more weathering steps..









Rod Hutchinson
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Thanks Martin,

I saw a similar technique on youtube marking out panel lines on an aircraft. The over paint was used to dirty up the wing surfaces to show the streaking. His was a milder finish than yours.

I would guess the removal of the wash reflects the amount of weathering/streaking you wish to replicate.

Milocomarty
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This is all about marking out the lines and detail Rod. The amount of weathering is also set by the colors used. Could use a less dark color for milder lines..

W C Greene
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Man, those are "nicely dirty" and very cool. Some really fine brushwork and the airbrush work ain't bad 'neither!

Woodie

Milocomarty
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Thanks Woodie !

Rust, rust, rust, well somekind of it. First time ever I used plain artist oilpaints for this. Dabbed and streaked, and well here is the first result. Paint still wet and I have no idea used to acrylics how long t takes to dry ? What I do like that it is ery forgiven like the enamels and you can create very subtile paterns with it..just used burned umber and burned sienna. Could use a bit of raw umber and some yellow raw sienna perhaps ?









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Martin;
Thanks for sharing the pictures of the weathered NP box using oils. I usually leave the car to sit, depending on the time of year for at least a couple of days during the warmer months, and up to a week in the cooler months (we're in deep winter here now).

Yes they are more forgiving. And really a joy to work with when you are so used to using acrylics.


This is the first car I worked on (a Walthers kit) in HO.

Rod Hutchinson
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Nice job Andrew.

Milocomarty
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Second that, looks good !

Guess I have to wait a little then for the oils to dry..

iandrewmartin
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Oil weathering takes time, but is worth it in the long run.

Milocomarty
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Consider this one done. Couple of pigments to the roof, mixture of Ammo, AK, Vallejo and stuff from the artstore. Bit of dust on the underframe with Panpastel en some streaks more with dark brown for green vehicles from Ammo.













Funny how the camera changes color with the same studio lights but a different background..

Lee B
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Great car, love the trees in the background of the final shot, too!

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The finished car looks really good. I was concerned that the trucks looked to 'rusty'. But the last photo in situ on the layout makes them look perfect in their all over dirty grey.
Trick of the camera I guess.

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Is there really such a thing as, "looking too rusty", when it comes to railroad roiling stock?

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Howdy Lee. Yes, most of us appreciate rusty and grimy locos & cars (me included), BUT there are/were exceptions to "too rusty". One case, a narrow gauge logger, the West Side Lumber Co. repainted and repaired their locos & cars once a year while hauling logs was slow. Their Shays and log cars, etc. were kept in excellent shape and photos show this. There were others which kept things nice & clean but for some reason on a model it "just don't look right!"
It has taken me a while to change my personal preferences to funk, the road I model pretty much kept their stuff clean and un-rusty (there may have been exceptions however).
Don't let my BS affect how we view our models, I love rust, grime, dirt, and soot as much as the next guy...I just had to go through the "12 step program" of funkiness and you know how anal we can be!

Woodrow

BTW-this weathering thread is very nice, I rate the work as superb.

Milocomarty
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Thanks Lee !

Next project on the bench, only 4 to do..



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Lee B wrote: Is there really such a thing as, "looking too rusty", when it comes to railroad roiling stock?
Lee;
So far as trucks go - yes there is. for the most parts trucks and the underfloor area of railroad cars gets to a dirty mid grey, with white flecks and stays there.

Same as modern roller bearing wheel faces. They get rusty early on in the day and then fade out to the same basic grey over time.

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Slow progress on the coal hoppers. Drying times are the modelers worse nightmare. Added a bit of spotty rust on one of the black, now more greyish cars. The redish one I just had to try some basic fading and other soot and grimes with Panpastel only. Sealed inbetween with AK ultra matte varnish..









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https://dirtystuffbymartinwelberg.wordpress.com/

Milocomarty
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So used to the Nikon D60 for years just with the original 18-55 kit lens that it's a though job goin through the menus of a D5300 and have the choice between a 60mm micro lens and a 18-105..but I start to learn..adjusting WB and so on to my prefered settings.







Lee B
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Wow, I love the rain-streaked grime. Such good weathering!

Milocomarty
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Thanks guys !

Still ty to figure out how and what with this white balance. Gonna take some shots more I think to find out how and what to do about it. When I take the pre mode and measure the white balance with a grey card on the subject the color changes when I step back. The AF-S 60mm f/2.8G ED Micro is a fixed distance lens so I need to step back to get the whole subject. Well it's almost weekend and I'm pretty happy I shoot RAW to. Couple of shots to show the problem, and picture worked on with PS white balance done with "auto"mode. Pictures taken on a pure white piece of drawing paper with 2 softboxes loades with 4 105W daylight bulbs each..















Last shot is an original camera Jpeg.

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Wow!

W C Greene
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Yep, really, REALLY dirty! Love it!

Woodie

Milocomarty
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Thanks!!

For a couple of days now I have this struggle with setting the white balance good for the new Nikon D5300. For years I do use the pre setting on my D60 and never had trouble like this or at least I can't remember that. So uesed to the camera that I layed down the grey cart, pointed shot and measured the white balance for decent pictures. Now with the upgrade in hands I can't find the right settings or not used to the camera I oversee something in the menu or the settings. Well for now I found a setting with 2 stops overexposed when shooting farder away. But see for yourself and make a comment how I can improve..I added 3 pictures one with the white balance setting and the exposure the meters in the camera says, and 2 with one stop overexposure each.

And to stay into the weathering stuff, these are shots of a new project on the bench. Scale 1 , or 1:32. Started to unscrew the undercarriage from the box and removed the wheels. The frame already has its first coat wich is a mixture of 2 brands primer, both Ammo by Mig and AK interactive make a good darker brown color primer wich I prefer to start with. Oh yeah, they are both named tracks primer..









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Some thoughts. Well this white balance issue still bothered me so I decided to download the trail version of Lightroom CC and I must say I really like it. Still had an ongoing O scale project and I decided to work a bit on it and take some pictures afterwards.Can't tell too much about all the steps I took because of my publisher but I can show a couple of pictures taken in RAW and edited with Lightroom CC. Added the yellow boxcar as some kinda bonus with one of the featured settings used. Think I can make the copyrights a bit smaller..









Milocomarty
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Well guess I figured out the white balance thingies. Use an Expodisc 2.0 and must say not cheap but a great tool, and some white, grey and black cards. Did run these pictures through Lightroom and most of the time the white balance is pretty good but I just had to increase the exposure.With that set it's time to concentrate on the models again. Added some streaking grimes to the roof and a couple of pinwashes to enhance the details, bit of wheel splatter too..let the fun begin.









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Martin,
I'd love to see a video or photos of your rolling stock on a layout, I bet it would really turn some heads.
Have you weathered any locomotives? I'd love to see that, too!

Last edited on Thu Aug 18th, 2016 03:51 am by Lee B

Milocomarty
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Already weathered a couple of German boxcars in 1:32. Untill now all of these had a different year of build, slightly different design but do look almost the same. Plywood walls, aluminium or PVC roofing. Now on the bench a type Gmhs 53, what else, first year they build and delivered them hmmmmmmm let's say .'53 ? And with the Europ codes on the side it's not that old. Changed it in '61 to RIV codes I believe, correct me when I'm wrong. So let's say this one slipped through and didn't get the new codes. Customer rides between '55 and '70. Faded yeah , red-brown paint fades in 11 years time. Heavily rusted , guess no. Well maintained but never been painted again..maybe a small touch here and there but we'll see how that turns out. For now I painted the frame with 2 primers, AMMO trackrust and rust, nice dark brown, brownish colors like all the soot and dirt that goes on a boxcar frame. Added a couple of acrylic washes with a mixture of dark grey and rust thinned 50% with acrylic thinner just to darken it and enhance the details. Gave the springs a light rust wash, can't remember but I think around 5 layers. Remounted the upper body and started fading it, mixture of mat varnish, white and rust wash thinned 50% and spray painted layer over layer in random patterns. For todays last treatment I started with a grey acrylic wash and added some shadows and darkened the seams and the roof a bit. I'm a lucky guy for this one, can go as far as I want the customer says..

















Same story on my blog https://dirtystuffbymartinwelberg.wordpress.com/2016/08/20/a-german-gmhs-53-boxcar-in-scale-1/

Milocomarty
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It's always a bit of a struggle weathering cars. The hardest part is where to stop. In this case I wonder if I didn't go to dark on steel beams on this car. After fading with a mixture of clear matte varnish, airbrush thinner, white and rust wash I made the decision to darken all the beams and other lines on the car with a dark grey wash. Maybe I should have used a lighter tone, maybe not. Maybe I can enlighten the overall appearance with some filters or try it with some oil paints. Well I finished these base layers with an overall spray of varnish and it's ready for the accents, streaks and other funny things that appears on boxcars used for quit some time. We see how it works out.







iandrewmartin
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Loving your work, especially on the 1/32nd scale cars.

Thanks for sharing.

Milocomarty
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Thanks Andrew !!

Again a bit of work done on the German boxcar in scale 1, drying times are a modelers worse enemy !! Added two filters to tone down and blend the colors a bit, the harsh contrast is still a bit annoyance to me. Used a filter from AK for wood, wich has a brownish orange tone and afterwards I went over with a heavily thinned brown wash from the MIG productions line. Always easy to have a lotta stuff on hand. Let it dry for a day or so I went on and started on the doors with artist oil paints. Winsor and Newton oils blended with Ammo odourless thinner. Used a burned umber to try to get the brownish tone back this cars original have, with a bit of fade that is..













In case I forget to post, join me on my blog https://dirtystuffbymartinwelberg.wordpress.com/2016/08/25/a-german-gmhs-53-boxcar-part-3/

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Martin
I featured your three posts on the Gmhs 53 boxcar and this forum thread as the site seeing post of the day on the Andrew's Trains blog.

Thanks for sharing your inspirational work.

Looking forward to seeing more in the near future. All the best for the weekend.

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This is a test post only.

:moose:

Si.

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See they are back..

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:moose:

You're right Martin !

Just checking for corruption !

You're not fiddleing your taxes like Starbucks I hope !!

:moose:

Si.

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Thanks Lee !

Traveled to a show in Hochdorf Switserland this weekend for some demonstrations of weathering techniques. As always I did have the problem what to bring and what to show so I ended up with 4 crates of material and 2 crates of rolling stock. My friend and Team Mitropa mate Erik Wieringa arrived after a 1,5 hour drive at my place where we enjoyed a coffee, packed the car and left at 8.30 AM. After a long drive we arrived at Hochdorf at 6.30 PM where we set up our gear for a 2 day show. The first day I did some fading on boxcars, added some oil paints on the German Gmhs 53 and started on the tank of the Lenz kesselwagen. Gave it a light fade with a light grey wash and some dark faded rust on the top with Ammo tracksprimer so I could get started on chipping the next day. With a lot of questions of the audience you never get as much work done as you wish, but hey that´s what you´re there for. Think I got the chipping done at the end of the day, started with a light grey color and finished over that with a Ammo chipping rust color. With the show closing at 4 PM and packed at 6.30 PM we decided to drive home. Leaving at 6 PM we finally arrived at my place ar 2.15 AM where we unpacked my stuff and Erik went home for another 1.5 hours. Respect mate !












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