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Bob R
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Began a 1/24th scale switching layout in Jan 2015. Contemplating posting the build in this forum. First need to see if I can figure out the picture posting technique.

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Bob R
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Another attempt at picture posting.

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Bob R
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Alright now back to the beginning.....

It is May 1949 in the rural community of Geneseo. The long economic drought caused by the Great Depression and followed by World War II has finally come to an end. Still the effects are being felt and show in the ravaged condition of buildings an equipment.

The town is served by a light industrial 18" narrow gauge railway developed to serve local industries. It once connected to the outside world through its interchange with a mainline standard gauge railroad. But now improved roadways and modern trucks have rendered that unnecessary.

The railways 4 miles of rail still operate providing for movement of goods to the small businesses in the community. The equipment is aged and in poor condition. There is not enough revenue to justify anything more than essential repairs. Certainly, no consideration of replacement. Abandonment is a real possibility in the foreseeable future.

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Last edited on Wed Dec 7th, 2016 04:12 am by Bob R

Bob R
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A little about Geneseo Railway. For the past few years I have been building small Gn15 display layouts. In January of 2015 I decided the furnace room was big enough to build a small switching layout. After removing all the items stored there I sheetrocked the walls, added a dropped ceiling and built shelf style benchwork along two walls. The area is L shaped 13 ft on each wall and 2 ft deep. Each side has a switching (industrial) area with a run around track and a few sidings. This provides a lot of operation for two operators. Movements from one side to the other require coordination as there is a single track connecting the sides of the L.

I liked the extreme narrow gauge engines and rolling stock I had been building in Gn15 so decided the layout would be 1/24th scale approximately 18" gauge using HO scale mechanisms and wheel sets. That is what led me to the small industrial type gas mechanical critters. I had just begun experimenting with battery power radio control and decided to make the layout dead rail. I have used DelTang radio receivers and transmitters. The four critters are all powered by Bachmann GE44 ton power trucks using a single lipo cell with a Pololu step up voltage regulator. Coupling is by three link chains which are also handled manually.

Track work is all hand laid code 83 rail with stub turnouts. I used Caboose Hobbies ground throws and everything is manually operated.

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mwiz64
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Very nice, Bob. I'd love to see more...

W C Greene
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Very cool...Handlaid track & radio control? Gotta be something in the air! Keep on building & photographing, we love it.

Woodie

Bob R
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Thanks for encouragement...

The next step was to add turntables at each end. Sticking with the manual operations theme I made the turntables fro CDs and CD cases.

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Bob R
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Then a bit of ballast and color to the track work. Over the past couple winters I swept up the sand, gravel and dirt deposited on the garage floor after snow storms. The texture is not bad and it is free!

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Bob R
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Considering the deteriorated condition of the equipment it was a necessity to have a small engine repair shed. The shed also reflects the thrifty approach to the railway. I do intend to outfit it with a work bench and some tools.

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Last edited on Wed Apr 6th, 2016 05:33 am by Bob R

Bob R
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The engine shed has been in place for a little while now and the vines are beginning to overtake it.

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Bob R
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Today I built a fuel tank for one end of the layout. Simple affair made from a cardboard tube, some heavy paper and card stock. Painted with acrylics. Now need to find some clutter like gas cans, 55 gal drums etc to fill in the area.

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mwiz64
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Really nice stuff, Bob! Thanks for sharing your work with us. Any chance we could see some close up images of the engines and rolling stock?

Last edited on Wed Apr 6th, 2016 05:49 am by mwiz64

Bob R
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Sure Mike. This is a pic of one of the critters with an assortment of cars.

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Bob R
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Closeup of car details.

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Bob R
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Two more critters.

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Bob R
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The 4th critter.

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Bob R
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Close up of one of the yellow critters. All 4 are scratch built with balsa, cardstock and brass tubing. All are powered by Bachmann GE44 ton power trucks and DelTang RC gear with a single cell LIPO.

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Last edited on Wed Dec 7th, 2016 04:09 am by Bob R

W C Greene
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Man...this is cooler than homemade s@#t ! That is a supreme compliment, Sir. Just extremely neat stuff, fine, excellent work.

Woodie-damn impressed

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Judging by the indent on the critter's roof, I think I know why that guy's half-bald...

Bob R
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Woodie,

Receiving a compliment from you is very meaningful to me. I have been watching your layouts for some time and admire your work. If I had seen your work earlier I would certainly be working in 1/32 scale. I recognize the term you used and modeled it.

Bob

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mwiz64
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Thanks, Bob. That's one nice little railroad you have there.

Bob R
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Once the track was finished and operating I began mocking up some structures. Working in the larger scale buildings are rather easy. I mocked up the buildings with foam board. Once I was satisfied with the design of a building I used cardstock (usually from cereal boxes) to make siding, trim, shingles etc. I tend to measure very little preferring to draw a line by eye and cut out using regular ol' scissors. Parts attached mostly with elmers glue or CA if part has to dry fast. I paint mostly with acrylic artist paints as they are cheap and there are infinite color possibilities. I use them on everything - scenery, buildings, engines, rolling stock and people.

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Bob R
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The foundation stones are made from pink construction foam just like the base of the layout. I cut strips approx 1/4 inch thick by 1/2 inch wide and tear down the center creating two stips with a ragged edge. Then break off pieces and glue in place with Elmers.

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Bob R
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For masonry buildings I also use foam board. I get the cheap brand as the paper covering peels off easier than the good quality stuff. I peel off the outside and draw the stone or brick pattern. Then slice along the lines with an exacto followed by an old ball point pen. A little practice and the shape and texture is easy to control.

Again, some acrylic paint is applied. For this brick I painted a base coat followed by a heavy wash of white which I wiped off to leave mortar lines.

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Bob R
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Add windows, doors roofing, glue to base and brush some ground cover up to the foundation and your done. Then you just need to stand way back and it will look acceptable.

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mwiz64
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Bob,

You make it all sound so simple in your description but clearly you're a master modeler. These pictures of your work are proof of that. This is easily one of the more inspiring threads on these boards.

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Great looking railroad Bob.

Alwin

Bob R
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Thank you for the favorable comments and praise. I am just an average modeler at best. Anyone can achieve this level of modeling. I have little patience so I like quick / short projects. That is why I choose such simple methods and materials. If a model takes more than a few hours over a couple days, I kinda give up om it. Throw it together fast and cover it with paint quickly.

I do not build many "foreground" models. I count on the eye taking in an entire scene rather than looking closely at an individual piece. Look closely at any of the pictures and you can quickly find many errors and things to critique.

Bob

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Throw it together fast and cover it with paint quickly.

(sigh) that is the way prototype buildings are made also...
Jose.

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Bob, you do very nice work. The brickwork on your buildings is extremely well done. I'm looking forward to the ongoing saga as you build your layout

Keith

mwiz64
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That's the point, Bob.... The overall effect. Plenty of guys can count rivets but they can't create a realistic looking scene. You have that covered.

Bob R
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You are correct Mike. One of my display layouts main industry is rivet mining.

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mwiz64
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^^^ <Very Big Grin>

Bob R
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Can't believe it......Went in the layout room today and discovered that dandelions have sprouted up all over! I am concerned that being stuck in May 1949 they will be here forever.

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NevadaBlue
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I'm glad you figured out the picture posting Bob. Wow, what nice work! I'm on the same track...
Please continue to 'show us how'. Very enjoyable.

Bob R
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The next building I built was Alexander Shipping Co. Began by mocking up with foam board. Siding, shingles and trim was cut from cereal box cardboard.

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Bob R
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I painted it with acrylic artist paint. I then slopped on some darker color and wiped off with a damp paper towel. When dry dry brushed with white.

The foundation was made with pieces off pink foam as described before. Painted with raw umber and dry brushed with white.

The awning is a piece of corrugated cardboard with the outer paper covering removed. If you look around you can find corrugated cardboard in many sizes that will fit any scale except maybe N scale. The coffee cup insulation sleeves at my local coffee shop are great for HO.

I cheated on the windows. A friend made them on his 3D printer. They are a bit to thick but "the overall scene " not foreground modeling allows it.

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Bob R
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Well the work week tis done and it is time for some relaxin...........

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mwiz64
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What are you using as the basis for your critters? In other words, what's the power mechanism?

Bob R
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HO scale Bachmann GE 44 Ton power truck. The old style had two separately powered trucks. The new ones have a single central motor with shaft drive (like Athearn). The old can often be found at train shows/swap meets and even old stock in shops. They run well but like many Bachmann engines the plastic axle gears sometimes split. They can be replaced or repaired. I posted a repair thread somewhere. I have also bought replacement power trucks with motors from the Bachmann online parts shop. They are about $15.00 but not always in stock.

Bob

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Neat! I can't wait till my layout is in shape to start buildings, even if they are just mockups to start.

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Cool critters!

Bob R
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Another siding is along side Scott's Metalworks. Again built with foam board and card stock with acrylic paint. Signage is printed with my inkjet printer on tissue paper
(wrapping paper tissue) and then applied to the building with thinned Elmers glue. You see some signs printed this way om the other buildings including the brick building. I like this method because I can make my own signs with lettering and/or images I find on the web.

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Bob R
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My attempt at a rusted metal roof. Again with acrylics.

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Bob R
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In an attempt to distract from the flatness of the layout I cut out an area near the corner and create a gully/stream bed. A small wooden trestle was needed to bridge the gap.

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Bob R
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With the addition of some quick scenery material it takes on a bit of life. The water has not arrived yet. A crossing was also added.

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NevadaBlue
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I like it all. Could you explain more about printing on the tissue paper? I'm not sure how to feed the stuff to the printer.

Bob R
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I select or make the image I want to print and usually test print with black onto a piece of bond paper. Then I cut a piece of tissue paper and lay it over the printed image. I tape the leading edge with a couple small pieces of scotch tape and reload the paper into printer. Then print in color.

Some inks will run when wet. If needed you can over spray the ink with Testors Dulcoat to set the ink.

I apply the tissue with Elmers. Usually I spread it with my finger using a little water to thin the glue. Gently press the tissue into the surface so it sinks into the surface texture. Don't over do it as tissue when wet becomes fragile. After it has dried you can use a sharpe exacto to cut the tissue where needed and reapply the glue pressing the tissue so it adheres well.

You can create your own decals and signs with this method. I use this method for buildings, street signs, rolling stock etc.

Of course - printers do not print white. I usually use the Paint program to create lettered signage and will reverse the colors so the background has color and the letters are basically clear. Then I prepaint the area I am applying the sign to flat white ( I use acrylic ). When the tissue is applied the letters appear white.

The attached image was made using the white letter method described.

Bob

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Bob R
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The Coca Cola sign on this building was made from an image I got from Bing Images and printed on tissue. You can see it is an effective way to make a decal at no cost that is unique to your model. You can size the images to fit your specific application. Creating something specific to the era or location is easy.

Bob

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W C Greene
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The tissue idea sounds fine. Have you ever tried printing the signs, etc. on clear decal paper? This is available from Micro Scale (best I have used) and others. It might help to line up several images to print at one time. I have used this method for several years and like the way the signs look and the ease of use...well, it is a decal.

Woodie

Bob R
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Decal paper.....that ain't scratch buildin. You must have a lotta money down there in Texas.

I haven't given that a try yet. Would certainly be beneficial in smaller scales.

Bob

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Thanks for the info Bob! Now I have to try it. I have some tissue paper from packing material of all things. I saved some styrofoam from a package and it is wrapped loosely in some nice tissue.

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I have printed on regular paper in the past, then sanded the backside to appropriate thinness. 


Herb

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Decal paper is $2.95 for an 8 by 11 sheet. Scratchbuilding? Whatever do you mean? Money in Texas? How much social security is needed to pay bills, gasoline, food, this n' that, and still build a layout? Oh, I forgot...we are ALL rich here because we live in Texas, everybody else wishes they could! LOL

Beaudreaux deLuxe

Bob R
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Cattle,oil and all that stuff!

I used to cruise up and down Camp Bowie when I lived in Ft Worth in the good ol' days. Now I am retired and drawing social security and making model trains from scraps I find in the trash.

This scrap pile is made from the parts of a BIC lighter.

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Hi Bob et al: I have been watching this thread and appreciate the fine work here and throughout the forums. Question - where did you come up with the geneseo name? We live in Livonia NY which is south of Rochester and 6 miles from Geneseo ny where a fine branch of the State university of NY is located. I am told that the name geneseo is derived from the river that flows through the valley (genesee) which has its roots in the native Seneca (iroquois). Again thanks for the posting of this and other work you have done.
Talk soon
Dick w.

mwiz64
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Interesting, Dick. I live in Genesee County, Michigan. I'm told we have a lot places named the same as in NY because it was people from that area where you live that settled here.

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Thanks Mike: There are most likely several genesee's throughout the country. We also have a regional brewery by that name which does produce a fine 12 horse ale and a seasonal boch beer amongst others. A small railway based on supplying a decent sized brewery and or wine production facilities (aka the finger lakes region where we live) might be quite interesting - just thinking.
Talk soon
Dick w

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I lived in upstate NY in my teens going to school in Peru near Plattsburgh. The name Geneseo though is my mothers hometown in western Kansas.

Added a fascia to layout edge and have skirting being sewn. Greatly improves the finished appearance. Made holders for the transmitters and car forwarding cards for operation.

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Last edited on Wed Dec 7th, 2016 04:07 am by Bob R

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The two most challenging parts of building to me are adding details and backdrops. I am at the point where these are the next steps.

Details are difficult in that you have to create a believable scene. The details have to look like they have been there a while and not just set on the layout. In 1/24 scale there is not an abundance of things to buy. Making details takes a while. I look on each as a small individual model and since the layout is small it is manageable. Woodie's Mogollon and Silver City layouts are examples of the standards we should be trying to achieve. I am a long way from reaching that level but will be trying.

Backdrops will be in the future. I want to try photo backdrops but have to find the right scenes to start with. It appears to me the first challenge will be finding scenes that can be photographed from the right angle. We look down on most railroad layouts so the scene needs to have that perspective.

The attached picture is my version of a small ash pit. The I beams are not perfect but since I made them from cardstock I am ok with that.

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Bob R
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Added bump stops at rail ends. For variety I made different styles. The I beam one is made from cardstock like the ash pit. Painted with acrylics with a little fine sand added for rusty texture. The wooden one is made from balsa that was ruffed up by dragging a razor saw along the wood grain. A couple bolt heads for detail. Also painted with acrylics.

Bob

Attachment: Stops.jpg (Downloaded 206 times)

Bob R
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Made a bunch of stumps. Started with some lilac branch and formed modeling putty around them. Textured a bit and painted with acrylics when dried. "Planted" them along front edge of layout. My excuse for not having to many foreground trees is the need to reach the rolling stock for manual coupling/uncoupling.

Bob

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Last edited on Wed Dec 7th, 2016 03:54 am by Bob R

Bob R
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My first test of background is promising. I took a picture of the rear of buildings on the main street of a small town nearby. Not wanting to waste a bunch of ink I enlarged and printed it in B&W. It needs to be enlarged a bit more. I envision that I can overlay auto pictures that are of the correct vintage etc. Once I find suitable scenes I will have the pictures done at Kinkos or similar shop.

Any experts that want to guide me will be welcomed. I take criticism quite well.

Bob

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I lost my internet access for a few days and am just catching up...

I think that the beams above ARE perfect. I also model in 1/24 and know the pain of finding details. The background will be good I think. I'm absorbing all of your posts, like a sponge soaking up water... Please continue.

Bob R
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One of the most important details is people. I bought the Henry Ford three person set recently. These look the part for 1949 dress. Will need another 20 or 30 folks to adequately populate the layout. It is difficult to find appropriate figures and they are always costly. Wish I had the skill to create my own.

My grandfather and his brother had a small trucking company way back when. He also drove Hudsons. I added grandpa and his Hudson by Alexander Shipping Co.

Bob

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Herb Kephart
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Very well done, Bob

Why not print the town scene scene in color, just for now? I think that it is near perfect for the background between the tree and the building--


Herb

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I'm experimenting with casting my own figures out of hot glue. First the molds have to be made, from silicone, then the glue... This is being done on the cheap, hopefully regular high temp silicone caulk will work for the mold and I already know the glue will work for the subject.
I have two of the sets of 'Henry Ford' figures and intend to experiment with them for casting. The heads are interchangeable, so I may be able to get some variety out of them. Adding body parts from some of the Chinese resin figures is also a possibility.

Bob R
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This background shot was only a test. I will need a more expansive scene and will have to adjust the camera angle to have the view to the horizon go off in the right direction. In this view the road is not aligned with my foreground structures correctly. I envision some foreground trees and fencing to disguise the rear edge of the layout and add three dimension to the scene.

All doable and the time of year is about right for foliage. Need to start looking for photo sights and the right time of day and weather.

This is the color picture.

Bob

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Ken, Will be interested how your casting effort turns out. I have had moderate success in casting, although I have not tried anything with 4 sides. I have cast car side frames, engine side frames and split barrels etc using Woodland Scenic's liquid mold. I used two part epoxy resin. Hard part is getting the bubbles out.

The picture is of engines I made with cast side frames. I made the master with styrene.

Bob

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W C Greene
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Bob, I just have to tell you that your layout is tops! I have always believed that "narrower is betterer" and you got it right. If I wasn't so hung up on the 2 foot line that I have loved for so long, I would go Gn15. Really fantastic work. One thing I'd have to build is a 15" gauge Shay...the Bachmann On30 lokie would translate just fine...Awww, I gotta git, I can't stand it!!!!!

Woodie

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Thanks for the kind comments Woodie. I have enjoyed this Gn15ish stuff since returning to toy trains. I modeled NG in the 70s and early 8os. I tried On3, On2 and On30. I favored the Maine 2ft equipment but liked the mountains of Colorado scenery wise. A career in the Air Force kept me moving and always lacking the space to do anything special. I finally gave it all up with a growing family and other interests. After a 30year break a terminally ill friend ask me to take him to a train show and the bug bit again. Being a NG type I started with a small test layout in On30. Then discovered Gnine and Gn15 on the web. Not knowing what I wanted - I built four small display layouts (one each winter). That led to this layout.

Having found your two layouts online I have developed a real fondness for southwestern mountainous scenery and have always been a fan of the Shay locomotives. I still have a On3 US Hobbies 13 Ton with Grandt drive gauged to 2ft from the distant past. I have been reading up on the SC-PA&M. Really neat history etc. I have also been looking at lotsa 1/32 1/35 figures etc. The grass is always greener!

Pic from one of my display layouts....

Bob

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Herb Kephart
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Neat Bob!

As you progress, please keep us ''in the loop'' even if it's point to point!

Herb

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Just worked my way through your thread-great stuff!

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Wonderful work Bob.

I was messing with my iPhone the other day and it has a panoramic feature which is excellent, might not work on a building scene though, light for one would be coming from different angles. I was just musing.

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Hi,

I just wanted to add my admiration for the skills so admirably displayed, thank you for sharing. Please described some of your techniques as I wish to learn.

Thank you.

Tim H

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Working on another building to fill the area behind Scott's Metalworks. Plan was for it to look like the back of main street buildings as in the picture in post #70. Made with foamboard that has had the outside paper removed to leave a concrete/stuco type finish. The rest is made from cardstock. Need to finish windows, gutters and down spouts and then blend in scenery.

Bob

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Bob R
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Added windows treatment, gutters and down spouts. Blended in scenery. Paper plants need to be painted.

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Another experiment with background photo. This time in color and sized more appropriately.

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I need to try that background technique with one of Duane's photos. I should take a copy to the print shop next week when we are 'out'.

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Finished the first of many planned trees.

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Made two more trees yesterday and planted them today. They are a little over a foot tall.

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NevadaBlue
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:moose:

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Today I made a couple trash cans and some empty bottles to clutter the "back alley" of the latest building. Clutter sure takes time.

The trash cans are made from the caps off pump hairspray bottles. I wrapped them with the corrugated coffee cup insulaters. Then added paper strips around top and bottom edges. Lid was also made with paper.

Bottles are made from the clear plastic sprues from a model car kit.

Bob

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You do neat stuff.

I too like the coffee cup insulators. Handy...

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Tried another type tree. This time a spindly evergreen of sorts. Kind of happy with the result for this first one. Will have to add a few more.

Bob

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Last edited on Tue May 10th, 2016 09:49 pm by Bob R

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Howdy Bob...make me some too! Maybe just 20 or 30 or so!!! Excellent looking conifer.

Woodie

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Thanks Woodie... Took about 3 hours to build. Let's see that would be 60-90 hours. In our scales there are not many vendors selling trees. Really a simple build, just time consuming.

Bob

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In addition to the construction of the many differing parts of Geneseo Railway I have been operating it daily. I am using a car card system with the various industries/businesses on each car card. I use a paperclip to mark the destination. Usually I will select five or six card numbers at random and move them to the next destination on the card. Moving five or six will generally take about 15 to 20 minutes. For longer sessions I move more cars and/or invoke rules that complicate the session. Rules may include such requirements as servicing the engine, requiring the engine to move forward from one side to the other which means turning on turntable, and pulling all cars from one side to the other. Another process is to work each side with a seperate engine and move two trains rather than working both sides with one engine. Of course two operators can work simultaneously and coordinate the movement from one side to the other over the single connecting track.

Bob

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Switches are manually thrown by the ground throws. The turntables are manually turned (armstrong). Coupling and uncoupling are manual as well. No track magnets here although I did have to use a tape deck head demagnetizer on some chains and uncoupling tools.

Manually operating everything really adds to the enjoyment of operations as well as simplifying construction. Along with the fact that this railway is dead rail it also eliminates problems that plague many model railroads.

My simple couplers and tool is pictured. I learned right away that a clear reach to all sidings was needed. Placement of buildings, trees etc has to consider big fat hands.

Bob

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W C Greene
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Howdy Bob, yes I know how "fat hands" can mess things up while operating. My link & pin couplers (even after years of use) are still a pain in the a$$ to operate but I wouldn't have it any other way. Besides, the cost of converting all to knuckle automatics (and the work) ain't in my program!
I love those chain couplers and the simple tool is great. I use tweezers, several are scattered around the layout wherever switching is involved. Keep up the great work.

Woodie

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My hats off to you Woodie. I use link and pin on one of my display layouts. That is 1/24th. Link and pin with 1/32nd? You must have steady hands. My back up for the day my hands shake to much is to move to 1/12th. I have been toying with some models in that scale.

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Working hard to get the layout ready for an NMRA convention layout tour. I would like to add more details which it is lacking at this point. Made another car load from a 1/35 scale military sand bag set. Decaled with tissue paper decals printed on my inkjet printer.

Bob

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I'm VERY impressed. Great work!

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Bob,

I was intrigued by your post on operating your layout. I like the simplicity of your card system that you are using. I hope you have more posts on your layout operations!

Keith

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+2 for what Keith said----about everything!

Herb

PS--There is always 1/1 scale--bur that requires a bit of space (and strong rafters under the room)

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Just finished another Northern Conifer. I think it is my best tree to date. It is 20" tall and kinda overpowers the scene but, I like it.

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Looking east....

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Closeup.....

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Beeeeeautiful trees! Great work Bob.

Woodie

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I really like the appearance of your railroad. It looks a bit rough, and that's good to me. :mex:

Alwin

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Hello Bob,

Congratulations on your excellent layout - very atmospheric, typical hard-worn NG.

Could you answer a couple of questions please ?.

1) Have you fixed the pink styrofoam to the underlying supporting benchwork, &, if so, how ?

2) How is your track secured to the styrofoam ? 
Glued ties ?  Functional spikes into the foam ?

Thanks,   Michael

 

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Michael,

The pink foam base is glued to the framework with Locktite PL300 foam board glue. It takes a while to set but works well. I lay most sections of track on the foam base on a tabletop and then move it to the layout framework. Easier to work on track this way. Picture shows one 8' section under construction on my pool table.

I lay the ties directly onto the foam base gluing them with Elmers white glue. Rail is set with Walthers Goo which is a contact cement. I apply the Goo to the bottom of the rail and let it dry, then put the rail in place and heat the rail with a soldering iron to soften the glue and set it. It can be reheated to reposition it if needed. My spikes are deceiving. I spike only the viewable side just for appearance. Any areas where I have a problem with track staying put I fix with thin CA.

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Another small model added today. I made the fuel tank from a piece of PVC wrapped with card stock. The stand is also made from card stock. Rivets are glue drops. Painted with acrylics and blended into scenery base.

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That little tank...as we say here in Tejas-"that's neat as frog fuzz!"...Extremely fine work, the whole layout is outstanding.

Woodie

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We also had a saying "fine as frogs hair". Very nice Bob - your modeling is so "atmospheric". Have followed your other projects on different boards and must say they do inspire. I also was first "grabbed" by the Maine 2 footers and still love them however the industrial-estate sized lines are so addicting. Keep up the great work.
Talk soon
Dick w.

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Did he just say rivets? He couldn't have... ;)

http://freerails.com/view_post.php?post_id=82157

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Great tank. It's the little touches, so often omitted, that count so much. The old rag hung over the beam to wipe your hands, the scrap roofing to avoid standing in a puddle---you are awarded Herb's honorarium for May.



Herb

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Bob - Thanks for your information, very helpful.

I thought I had read somewhere that PVA (Elmers type glue) didn't "take" to pink/blue foam but it obviously works for you.

I have previously tried the rubber contact adhesive & soldering iron technique, as also suggested by Mr W Greene of this parish but with nil success.

Glue drop rivets Eh ? - nice tank.

Regards,          Michael

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PVA alone would not be adequate. It sticks fairly well but the addition of ballast creates more than enough adhesion. When I have removed track the ballast and ties were not easy to remove and usually some of the foam comes up with them. I have display layouts that are moved frequently and have not had any problems.

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I used some cheap builder's merchant straight PVA last night to stick down a few timber ties - but to rigid foamed PU insulation; I don't have any blue/pink extruded styrene in stock. This morning the ties are firmly fixed, though the PU may have a more PVA compatible surface finish than extruded styrene foam.

Like yourself, I am planning on also retaining the ties with PVA'ed ballast.

Thanks Bob, much appreciated.   Regards,           Michael 

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Yep, I have used Elmer's Glue to hold down wood ties for many years and never had any problems. I spike the rail every 4th or 5th tie (many times I will spike all the ties in special viewing areas) and when the ballast is applied and glued down with 50/50 Elmer's and water, the track is pretty much there forever. It appears that the thinned glue seeps into the ties and bonds them to the spikes. I have friends who use white glue to hold flex track down, T pinned here & there. And when the ballast is applied, the flex is "down for the count". With all that said, if I want to change something, an application of water/alcohol will loosen the glue and then I can scrape it all up and make things "better".

I hope some of this jibberish helps...
Woodie

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Nice fuel tank. Details... make the scene.

I too use PVA for sticking down track. I also tend to fill in with hot glue. If I have to move track, the foam comes with it.

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Hello Ken,

Greetings from Southwest England !

From your recent post to "Geneseo RR" you say you have used PVA to fix ties to foam ?

I would appreciate your views on using foam (extruded styrene, blue/pink ??) as a roadbed or baseboard because I am thinking of using foam but I have had no previous experience of using it for a model RR.

Regards,    Michael

Ps: My Uncle Bob never enjoyed the best of health but eventually died of simple "old age" -- at 96 !!

 

Last edited on Fri May 20th, 2016 02:18 am by Salada

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Mr Greene, Woodie, Sir.

2 interesting comments there :

1) You use Elmer's at 50% - 50% glue to water - is that a rather high % of glue or is that necessary for adhering to foam ?.

In the past I have used a really weak mix, 10%glue + 90% water to fix ballast - sets like rock after 2-3 days but that was onto a wood or engineering grade cardboard roadbed. I have never previously tried using a foam track-base.

2)  I never knew that PVA type glue could be undone by alchohol-water !. What type of hooch do you use ? - IPA, Methyl, Ethanol, Jack Daniels ?
 
Thanks,     Michael

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Michael,

I have used PVA on pink blue and other foam. Results are the same - excellent. I use it straight for glueing ties. For ballasting I use approx 35-40% glue with water and a few drops of detergent as a wetting agent.

Wetting existing track and ballast with wetted water or alchohol will soften it and it will scrape off with ease.

I initially thought that track built on 2" foam would be as good as cork roadbed for noise cancellation. I have found that 2" foam glued directly to the wooden framing actually increases the noise. Has anyone else found this to be the case? Any suggested cures?

Still adding trees. Have 12 done now.

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Hi Bob: I found the same - went back to using cork glued to the foam (or other foundation). I did use titebond III which worked well. Some authorities say to use a flexible glue (silicone ect) so that there is no transmission of sound through the glue to the bench top but I never have had the problem.
talk soon
Dick w.

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As for using 2" foam for layout/ roadbed--look in the old posts for ''Mogollon Railroad''.

This epic series, by our eminent contributor Mr Woodrow C Greene- was done this way, and sat  outside--in all types of weather and was operated for years.

Another example of ''those who do not know history are forced to repeat it''.

Mr Greene is too shy to blow his own horn. (G)

Herb

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Thanks Bob, & also Dick & Herb. I have never seen or experienced a foam based layout so I only have other's opinions/views to go on. Out in the open air maybe Mr Greene wasn't aware of or bothered by any baseboard transmitted noise ?.

Regards,    Michael

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Howdy Michael, while there may be a bit of "noise" here & there, but (to my ears) things are pretty quiet. It could be because the handlaid track is on wooden ties attached directly to the foam instead of plastic ties (could THEY be the culprit?) under flex track. Now that I am indoors, I still hear very little noise...also it could be smooth, slow running locos that make things quieter. Yes, I have read much over the years about noise & foam, this is just my experience...over 15 years of it with blue foam.

Woodie

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My track is hand laid on balsa ties with Walthers Goo as the glue and I still feel there is noise generated. My engines run quite smoothly although they use cheap Bachmann mechanisms. The noise is not bad by any means but certainly more than I would prefer.

Last edited on Mon May 23rd, 2016 10:55 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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I was told that model railroading was a hobby that involved many different skills. No one ever mentioned ironing! Added skirting to the layout. It really is nice to hide all the junk lurking underneath.

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mwiz64
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There is ironing involved in RC airplane building too.

Bob R
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True. Most of mine are fiberglassed as I don't do monocoat very well.

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Nice work.
I use a lot of Fiberglass on my planes too. It's lots better.

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The ones I fly these days are 95% carbon fiber and I don't build them. I just assemble the parts. Craftsmen in the eastern part of Europe hand build them from CNC cut molds. Why are they CF? Its a weight and strength thing. They only weigh 8 ounces but they withstand a lot of stress on launch. They are thrown from a wingtip like a discus is thrown. They launch to about 200' or so. Then you go looking for lift.

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As much as I love building and flying this is the wrong forum for discussing them. I think we should get back to the subject of trains.

Just a week to go until the layout tour. A lot to finish up.

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I agree. I love all the little details you add to the scenes to make them look real... like the weeds along the base of the porch.

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Uh Oh...talking about aircraft...that nasty old moderator will git ya!
How about (what I did once) having an old biplane fuse and one wing sitting against a building...with weeds growing around. That is double trouble.

Hey, it's your thread. Whatever you want to write about is OK by me. Just don't mention politics...(pile-o'-ticks?)

Woodie

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Woodie, Bob would rather not have his topic go off subject, Lets respect that.

Bob, I can't believe the amount of superior model building that you accomplish in so little time Please continue to keep us informed.

Herb

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Salada wrote:
Thanks Bob, & also Dick & Herb. I have never seen or experienced a foam based layout so I only have other's opinions/views to go on. Out in the open air maybe Mr Greene wasn't aware of or bothered by any baseboard transmitted noise ?.

Regards,    Michael


Michael,
I had missed your question about foam... I used two 1" slabs of urethane insulation board over 1/4" plywood with a 1x2" wood frame under it. I glued the track directly to the foam, and in some cases to the foil layer on the foam. Both worked fine. I learned to remove the foil, although it isn't necessary. I used the urethane because it is what I had on hand. Now I am using styrofoam for nearly all my base board and landscape structures. A hot wire cutter is magic for this.

Bob R
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Had to take a short break and prepare for an NMRA convention. Made my layouts available for the layout tour and had a bunch of visitors. It was a good time but now I need to couple up a car and get back to work.

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Nice that you hosted visitors, I'm sure that they went away impressed---I would have liked to have been one !



Herb

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Ken: thanks for your foam reply.

Bob: excellent photo of No. 4 & scenery close up; 'proper job' as we say down 'ere.

Regards,        Michael

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Bob: I have been working my way through all the many pages on this thread. As was the case over on the GnATTERbox your pictures and explanations continue to be very inspirational.
I have downloaded all your photos for future reference as I build my own Gn15 layout. I have started a thread on this same site.. (new member introduction) check it out.

Larry Gant

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It has been a while since my last post. My wife passed away suddenly in late June. Took a break from the layout but am now getting started again.

I decided to expand a little by running the tracks through a wall and re-entering the room across from existing layout. There is a closet under a stairway that the track passes through. My layout is in the furnace/storage room and the new section is in front of the water heater and furnace. I made the benchwork a movable table and the connecting section a lift out so I can easily access the equipment.

Trackwork is well underway and will be completed this weekend. This adds another switching area to the existing two and has three sidings. I will attach a backdrop to the table and add buildings along the back.

Bob

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Hi Bob: Had a feeling something was amiss; So sorry to hear. All our best for you and your family.
Talk soon
Dick w.

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Bob--

My thoughts and prayers go out to you
It's really tough to lose a loved one.

Herb Kephart

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Finished the trackwork and added facia to layout edges.

Bob

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Hope you are making this section easily removable, because either the water heater or something else WILL need repairs/replacement at some point.
Jose.

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Yep....the table and liftout section are both removable. Held in by four wingnuts which takes less than five minutes to remove and access all equipment.

The new town section will be called Furniss and is reached after going through Soft Water Pass.

Bob

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Hi Bob

It's good to see your new section.
I have been enjoying the 'Geneseo story' very much !

I like the way you deal with your bench edges.

Looks like the new ROW extension is going to be a seriously long run.
Nice to see Gn15, with a bit of room to 'stretch its wheels' !

:moose:

Si.

Bob R
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I have not accomplished a lot since last post. Been operating with the new section. It really has added to the operational aspects.

Added a back to the table and mocked up a few trees. Once trees are made and have denser foilage I think they will disguise the tunnel entrance ok. Now need to mock up some buildings and decide what the new area will look like.

Bob

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Bob R
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Another view....

Bob

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Hi Bob,
this new extension is starting to look very good indeed. Well done. :2t: :bow: :bow:
I'm sure it will look terrific once all the scenery is done.

Bob R
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Mocked up a couple buildings and have a vision of what it will look like.

Bob

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Rails End Tavern is a building I salvaged from a previous small display section. It was a narrow structure on the back edge. I doubled the width and added the sign.

Bob

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Bob R
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A little more progress on building design..

Bob

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Bob R
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Cutting up some more cereal boxes...

Bob

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Bob R
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Added a little paint to the card stock and a chimney carved from foam. Still need details and signage.

Bob

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Larry G
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Hey Bob, who makes the bearing castings under your cars?

Larry G

Last edited on Tue Nov 15th, 2016 08:43 pm by Larry G

Bob R
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Larry G wrote:
Hey Bob, who makes the bearing castings under your cars?

Larry G



I have several types in use. Some I cast myself, some canibalized from HO cars and some bought.

Boulder Valley Models sells a set of "Small Pedistals for On30" that work very well. Attached pic is made with them......

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Bob R
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Another choice is from Wiseman Model Services. HO or Small On30 Wlliamette Logging Disconects. These work well also. They are whitemetal castings and come with good quality wheelsets. A six pack is $39.95. I basically build the logging disconnect after filling/grinding off top details. Then build the Gn15 car on top. They are therefore weighted well. Picture made from them...

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Last edited on Sun Nov 20th, 2016 06:53 am by Bob R

Bob R
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I look at train shows and swap meets for cheap european rail cars like old Airfix. I cut off the pedestals and use them. Example...........

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Larry G
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Thank you Bob, I hope to build some cars for my layout over the winter. Can't afford to buy more Bachmann tipper cars since the price has gone up so much. I have been stockpiling suitable card stock and will give your methods a good try.
Larry

In your first picture I see a third rail, do you also run trains with a smaller gauge than Gn15?

Last edited on Wed Nov 16th, 2016 07:44 am by Larry G

Bob R
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Larry G wrote:


In your first picture I see a third rail, do you also run trains with a smaller gauge than Gn15?


Yes. I have built several display layouts. Some are Gn15 and some Gnine using N gauge mechanisms. Picture of my whimsical Strawberry Mountain layout.

Bob

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Herb Kephart
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Bob
Those guys on the platform look scared out of their wits!

Nice work, and ideas for parts--

Herb

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Herb Kephart wrote:
Bob
Those guys on the platform look scared out of their wits!
Herb


I am not very good at figure carving. Ok for the whimsical but for scale models I will continue to buy figures.

Bob

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Larry G
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Bob, I am too up tight to have ever built a totally whimsical layout. But, I do appreciate the efforts of those folks who build layouts such as yours, great fun. My "whimsical" Appetite mineral is about as close as I come to whimsical.
Larry Gant

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Bob,

Being that it's Thanksgiving today, I feel extremely grateful to be a Freerails member and to have the opportunity to associate and learn so much from everyone here. You have a wonderful layout being built so creatively! Although I build in a different scale (HOn30), I have found that I learn much by looking beyond the horizon. I'm looking forward to seeing more excellent discussions here, with more excellent photos, in the future.

Question: Now that you've discussed some about operations and have expanded your layout, how about posting a layout diagram and an example of a single day's operation on the Geneseo?

Mark E

Bob R
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Greetings Mark in Wichita. I lived there 1975 - 1978.

I am terrible at drawing track plans which is why I just start laying track and see what developes. I took a few pictures that show the layout by area and will post them with a description of operations.

As discussed earlier, I have a card for each car with destinations listed. When picking up a car I simply move the paperclip down to highlight the next destination. There are eight destinations (industries). Two have double sidings to serve them so there are ten sidings in total.

With the new addition there are essentially three switching areas. I can operate alone or have one operator at each of the areas. The "mainline" from one area to another is single tracked so if more than one operator they need to coordinate moves between areas.

This first picture I will call Geneseo and has three industries. There are many ways of operating but I will describe my most common approach. I begin by running an engine at random to an industry and picking up the cars on that siding. They then are moved to the next destination on their cards. When they are delivered to their destination any cars at that location are picked up and moved to their next destination. This creates a completely random series of moves that will go on forever (or until tired of playing). If there is more than one operator the cars destined for another area are set out and transferred to the appropriate operator either by running the train to that area or the next operator picking them up during one of their movements..

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Last edited on Fri Nov 25th, 2016 06:57 am by Bob R

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This picture is the main from Geneseo to Maryville.

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Last edited on Fri Nov 25th, 2016 06:56 am by Bob R

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At Maryville there are three single siding industries. On the right you can see where the track passes through the wall to re-enter on the other side of the aisle. You will note at each area there are both facing and trailing point switches and a run around track. At Maryville two industries are on the same track which can require moving cars from one to service the other.

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Last edited on Wed Dec 7th, 2016 04:48 am by Bob R

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The track re-enters in this view and meanders past the water softner and water heater on the way to the third area Furniss.

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W C Greene
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What a marvelous layout! I really love the "narrow-ness" of the 15" gauge rails and the beautiful tiny equipment. And the scenery...well, what else can I say!? Please show us more, MUCH more...

Woodie

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The third area is Furniss which has two industries. Again both facing and trailing point switches. Furniss Mfg has two siding tracks.

I have several rules which can be imposed to complicate operations. For simple running they are suspended.

1 - The engines must run in a forward direction when moving across the "mainline" between areas. This requires use of the turntables.

2 - The engines must run at headend of trains moving across the "mainline" between areas. No pushing cars.

3 - Movements at two siding industries. Cars are set out on the outer track. On the next move to that location they are moved to the inner track. On the next move they are moved to the next destination.

Operations are simple but due to the tightness of the switching areas and facing trailing point switches plus double industry sidings etc. the operations are challenging. I always liked the John Allen Timesaver concept and it inspired the switching operations. I like the ability to have continuous operating and not having to mess with switchlists. More importantly, I can stop at anytime without ever having to reset anything. I can resume from wherever I previously stopped.

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Last edited on Fri Nov 25th, 2016 11:58 pm by Bob R

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Illustration.....

Critter is picking up two cars on the outbound track at Alexander Shipping Co. in Geneseo area. Car #4 is destined for Lehki Valve Mfg. and car #19 is destined for Badens Industries both in the Maryville area.


(Badens was named for Tom Baden who I knew and modelled with in Wichita. He worked for Boeing Aircraft and modelled in On3.)

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Last edited on Fri Nov 25th, 2016 11:31 pm by Bob R

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When arriving at Badens with car #19 I will have to pickup car #23. This requires pulling it out before shoving car #19 in. Car #23 is destined for Furniss Mfg. in the Furniss area next.

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Last edited on Fri Nov 25th, 2016 07:17 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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The critter had to run around car #4 to deliver to Lehki Valve. There are two cars at Lehki awaiting pickup. Car #13 is destined for Alexander Shipping in Geneseo area and car #18 is destined for Bates Supply in the Furniss area. Both will have to be pulled out before car #4 is pushed in.

And then the movements will continue based on pickups at Alexanders and Bates which of course will lead to more and more movements until I get tired of running the trains.

On most days when operating by myself I will run one complete pass from Geneseo through Maryville to Furniss and back to Geneseo. Then deliver the critter back to the turntable area where it gets fueled and ties up for the day.

When a car is dropped off at it's destination, the paperclip is moved to the next destination and put in the card box along the front edge of the layout. The next time a crew services that location the cards in the box are pulled showing their next destination.

An alternative operation process is to draw car #s from a set of cards I made and then move only those selected. I may decide to draw six cards only. Then I locate those six and move them to their next destination. Kinda like having a switch list without any paperwork.

Currently each car has a card with seven of the eight industries. Each has one industry it never goes to.

The simplicity of the operation process, yet complexity and randomness of movements keeps it interesting to me.

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Last edited on Fri Nov 25th, 2016 11:50 pm by Bob R

Mark E
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Bob,

Thank you for the recent posts on your layout. I like the cascading effect of your operations - very simple. It's got me to think if I could do the same on the switching layout I'm very slowly working on.

I moved to Wichita in 1983. I can't recall meeting Tom Baden, but the name is rather familiar.

Mark E

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Haven't been to productive lately. I did add some signage to Bates Supply. I have also decided that Furniss Mfg will be a brick building.

Bob

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With the addition of the Furniss area I will need about 24 railcars. I built car #24 which raises the total to 19 now.

Bob

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Bob R
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Four more cars are under construction now.  Still have to add a few details and paint.
Bob

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Completed a couple more cars today.  
Bob

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All five new cars are now in service.  
Bob

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Keith Pashina
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Bob,
That's a fine-looking router you have built up. I like worn and battered look of the cars.
Keith

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Yeah, that's some first-rate work there!

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i like what you did to the wood, nice
Cor

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I do like the dereliction particularly on No.29. That broken stake and no crossbar just oozes decades of wear and tear.

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Hi Bob:  I am closely watching what you and Larry are doing in GN15 - it is intoxicating. Thanks for sharing.  Your work is definitely over the top both in quality and quantity. Talk soon  Dick w


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Bob,
Your thread gives me tons of inspiration. Please keep the updates coming. I save every picture you post. :2t:.

Larry Gant

Last edited on Fri Dec 9th, 2016 02:33 am by Larry G

Bob R
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Began carving bricks into Furniss Mfg.  Will take a while.  
Bob

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Larry G
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Bob,
Your bricks look great, what material are you carving?  What tools are you using to do the carving?

Larry Gant

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Larry G wrote: Bob,
Your bricks look great, what material are you carving?  What tools are you using to do the carving?

Larry Gant

The building sides are foam board.  I use the cheap stuff from Hobby Lobby as the paper covering is easy to peel off.  Some of the more expensive/better quality you can not peel off the covering easily.  I mark lines for the courses of the brick and score along those horizontal lines with a sharpe exacto knife.  Then I score the individual bricks by eye.  I don't spend the time to measure.  After the lines are scored, I run an old empty ball point pen through the cuts to create the mortar lines.  I paint with acrylics.  After dry I slop on some acryic white and wipe it off with a damp paper towel.  The texture of the foam really looks like brick when painted.
Bob

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Last edited on Sat Dec 10th, 2016 09:02 am by Bob R

Larry G
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Thank you Bob, your methods look very easy, something even an old fart like me can handle. And we do have a Hobby Lobby in Rapid City. I will eventually need to build a few brick buildings for my Appetite Mine layout. I like working with foam. Much of my Gn15 layout is built on this stuff.

Larry G

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Larry G wrote: Thank you Bob, your methods look very easy, something even an old fart like me can handle. And we do have a Hobby Lobby in Rapid City. I will eventually need to build a few brick buildings for my Appetite Mine layout. I like working with foam. Much of my Gn15 layout is built on this stuff.

Larry G

Yes it is easy.  The most difficult part is working the corners.  I carefully cut back the paper covering so that the foam mates at the corners and ensure I get it glued together.  Then I sand the corners lightly.  Doing this enables you to not have obvious seams at the corners. 
I added some more bricks this morning....Bob

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Last edited on Sat Dec 10th, 2016 09:51 pm by Bob R

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Warning...don't look at the Shapeways site.  I did and now am thinking about backdating my layout to steam.  The 1/24th Bagnall by Brack is just too nice to pass up.  I also ordered a Bachmann Percy for a mechanism and a Deltang receiver from On30Guy.  Christmas was a good excuse. 
Bob

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Last edited on Sat Dec 10th, 2016 09:44 pm by Bob R

Larry G
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Bob, your little steamer is definitely appealing. I will have to resist the urge to get one since my money needs to go other places.

I'll be looking forward to seeing what it looks like finished.

Larry G

Last edited on Sat Dec 10th, 2016 10:04 pm by Larry G

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Hi Bob,

Nice progress on your layout. That steam loco looks great. Great excuse to build a watertank, coaling tower, maintenance shed and of course more steam loco's. :bg:

Alwin

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Hi Bob. Great work! Thank you for sharing! :bow::bow::bow:

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I see you're another modeller with the patience of a saint Bob. I've been following various threads on NGRM Online where scribing brick or stone into foam board is the order of the day and it never ceases to amaze me how dedicated some folk are! Yours are looking very good and I agree Brack's Bagnall is a very appealing loco. If you're not already on NGRM Online, you might find it interesting as Brack is a regular contributor.

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slateworks wrote: I see you're another modeller with the patience of a saint Bob. I've been following various threads on NGRM Online where scribing brick or stone into foam board is the order of the day and it never ceases to amaze me how dedicated some folk are! Yours are looking very good and I agree Brack's Bagnall is a very appealing loco. If you're not already on NGRM Online, you might find it interesting as Brack is a regular contributor.
Patience is not one of my attributes.  That is why I employ such simple modeling techniques. I always look for projects that can be completed in a short time so that I can see the progress.  This brick building will be one of the longer projects to complete but at least the brick carving can be done while watching TV.
I have not visited the NGRM site but will register on the site today and look around.
Bob

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The brick work is progressing ok.  Some painting highlights and then a chimney for the power plant section will be the next step.  Then windows, doors, roof, downspouts and details. Whew!  All fun if taken in small steps.  
Bob

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W C Greene
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Bob, great work! You have much more patience than me. The brick work looks fine, an impressive structure indeed.

Woodie

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Well I was good to myself at Christmas and have modified the Bachmann Percy mechanism to fit the Shapeways Bagnall.  Easy job to complete.  I fully expect it to run well so am already looking at automobiles and trucks that will backdate the layout.  I also ordered 10 figures from Shapeways that look appropriate for the era.  One will be operating the Bagnall. Saving now for the second Bagnall in anticipation of this one running well.
Bob

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A little black primer.......
Bob

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Last edited on Thu Dec 29th, 2016 10:02 pm by Bob R

W C Greene
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Man...that is a real "cutie"! I want to see more of this one.

Woodie

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That's turned out really well Bob, a credit to your finishing skills.

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Finished the brickwork and shingled the roof on Furniss Mfg.  Still a long way to go before finishing....
Bob

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Last edited on Fri Dec 30th, 2016 08:57 pm by Bob R

ashtrain
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Hi Bob: Lovely jobs on the loco and building. What material(s) is the chimney made of and how were the bricks carved? They match the rest of the building very well.
Talk soon
Dick w

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ashtrain wrote: Hi Bob: Lovely jobs on the loco and building. What material(s) is the chimney made of and how were the bricks carved? They match the rest of the building very well.
Talk soon
Dick w
I made the chimney base out of a cardboard tube (tapered).  For the bricks I cut strips of the foam the width of a single row of bricks (same foam board as building sides) and wrapped them around the cardboard base, gluing with white glue.  Then I carved the individual bricks in the same way I did the building sides.  You can wrap a sheet of the foam and then draw lines to carve rather than wrap individual rows of foam.  I remove the paper from both sides of the foamboard and it wraps quite easily.  When I wrap a sheet of foam I glue with a spray contact adhesive.  
I don't have a picture of brick work.  Attached is a picture of a tower on a whimsical castle layout I am making.

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Last edited on Fri Dec 30th, 2016 09:59 pm by Bob R

ashtrain
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thanks Bob: Very ingenious - I will use that.
Talk soon
Dick w

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Alwin wrote: Hi Bob,

Nice progress on your layout. That steam loco looks great. Great excuse to build a watertank, coaling tower, maintenance shed and of course more steam loco's. :bg:

Alwin

Facilities for coal and water are certainly necessary, however; small tea kettles like this Bagnall only need the simplest support.  The space available is also very limited.  The first servicing area consists of a water column and small coal bin.  I will add details like shovel and coal buckets and add a ash pit soon.
The engine is still awaiting small details and painting.
Bob

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Last edited on Mon Jan 9th, 2017 07:39 pm by Bob R

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Second water column installed.....
Bob

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Looking GOOD Bob!!!



Herb

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Agree, really nice. Where did you get those watercolumns, they look great?

Alwin

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@Bob R
When building castles and the like, this source will ease your life a bit, because the foam is already married to the cardboard.

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Alwin,  The water columns were made from tubing, cardstock, wire etc.
Helmut,  Good info, thanks.  I try not to buy if I can get by without.  I am cheap I guess.
Installing the second coal bin.  Now both Geneseo and Marysville engine service areas have water and coal.  I need to create an engine service area at Furniss.
Bob

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Last edited on Thu Jan 12th, 2017 01:25 am by Bob R

slateworks
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Lovely air of busy decrepitude Bob. Nicely done.

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Did a little painting and weathering today.  Still need to add some piping details and weather the wheels and rods.  It is coming along ok.  Counting my change so I can order number 2.
Bob

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Bob, that is way too cool! What a fine little kettle she is.

Woodie

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The little engine is nearly done.....enough to run it and make a video.  Not the best quality. My ability to run the train and video at the same time is limited.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IriMRUMnWZY

Bob

Last edited on Fri Jan 13th, 2017 07:04 am by Bob R

slateworks
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Great result Bob, you've produced a nice smooth slow runner there.

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Bob,
Is the driver of your new steamer a commercial figure or did you rework the figure?
Larry G

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Bob R
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Larry G wrote: Bob,
Is the driver of your new steamer a commercial figure or did you rework the figure?
Larry G

Larry,  The figure is from Shapeways.  I ordered two 5 people sets that very much fit the era and nature of my railroad.  They are both by Panzer vs Tank.  The two sets are:1-24 Merchant Navy Set 7-2 and 7-3.  Price is $40 to $45 per set so about $8 to $10 per person which is in line with what other 1/24th figures run.  The clothing and poses are great. They are in WSF (white strong flexible) so not as fine as FUD ( frosted ultra detail) but look ok to me.
Bob

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Last edited on Fri Jan 13th, 2017 08:52 pm by Bob R

Larry G
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Thank you Bob, I have not checked out Shapeways site before, I need to do that.

I have gotten many of my figures from Jimmy Flintstone. They have excellent well sculpted figures but not much in the way of worker types. Their main focus is the model car hobby, movie characters and fantasy creatures.
Larry G

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I am declaring that Engine #6 is now complete and operational.  Overall I am pleased with the outcome.  It was printed in WSF which has a rough surface.  Being lazy I did minimal sanding.  Ok for the rundown nature of the Geneseo Railway.  The cost of FUD is double WSF which I was not willing to pay.  
The only thing left is to find a suitable switch so I do not have to unplug the battery when not in use.  I am still looking for something small enough.  May consider using a magnetic reed switch.
Bob

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Bob R
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Another view....Bob

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And one more....Bob

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Made another short video to show the slow speed operation of Geneseo Rwy #6.  Appologize for shakiness.  I haven't figured out how to video and run at the same time!
https://youtu.be/mP27hr5gDik
Bob

Last edited on Sat Jan 14th, 2017 09:39 pm by Bob R

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Howdy Bob, it appears to me that you have become "hooked" on steam! Delightful videos of #6, the cows don't seem to notice a thing however.
Very, VERY fine work.

Woodie

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W C Greene wrote: Howdy Bob, it appears to me that you have become "hooked" on steam! Delightful videos of #6, the cows don't seem to notice a thing however.
Very, VERY fine work.

Woodie

Are you suggesting I animate the herd?  Or maybe add cow sounds activated by the passing train.  I'll attack that once I have finished the basic scenery and structures.
Bob

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Hmmm...animate the herd? Maybe their tails could be made to swing or their jaws could appear to be chewing? Your scale is large enough that you could do just about anything! LOL

Woodie

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Have run Geneseo Rwy #6 through a full battery charge now and am very pleased with its operation.  Very smooth and slow running charactoristics are great.  I found and installed a suitable switch.  So satisfied that I have ordered another from Shapeways.  A sister engine will be operating in the near future.  
I have also become very fond of the Decauville, Type 1, 3 Ton engine.  I really like the outside frame style.  I have noted that Shapeways has one on their site but there is no info on what type mechanism would be appropriate.  If anyone has recommendations, I would greatly appreciate some guidance.
#6 has been visiting the new servicing facilities.  Posted is picture of #6 approaching the ash pit after a days run.
Bob

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Bob R
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Back in post #141 Jose expressed concern about accessability of water heater, water softener and furnace when I installed the addition.  I made the benchwork (table) and connecting section removeable to facilitate maintenance.  I did not anticipate that the water softener would fail and no replacement of the same dimensions would be available.  Now I have to redo the liftout section to accomodate the new water softener.
I found a switch that fits nicely in engine #6.  
Bob

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Shapeways responded and now I have another project to work on.  
Bob

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With steam as power now I decided that one operating rule will be the engines must run forward when going from town to town.  That means turning the engines frequently.  Geneseo and Maryville both had turntables but there was no turntable at Furniss.  Now there is.  Just have to add another water column and coal bin at Furniss.
Bob

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The Furniss turntable and the approach track are complete and operational.  Using a CD and case certainly simplifies the process.  Kinda limits engine length though.  Works great for my little layout.  
Bob

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W C Greene
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WOW! What a great little table. I knew you'd get "hooked" on steam.

Woodie

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Bob,
How do you power the rails on your turntables? Can your tables revolve all the way around?

Larry Gant

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Larry G wrote: Bob,
How do you power the rails on your turntables? Can your tables revolve all the way around?

Larry Gant

This one is not powered as it is a BPRC (Dead Rail) layout.  I have built a powered CD turntable on my Iron Horse Vineyard layout.
Two simple brass or copper disc under the CD with wipers work good.  You can also just run two wires theough the center to the rails.  Rotating will twist the wires but since the cd is so easily removed you can lift it and unwind the wires from time to time.
Bob

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Last edited on Mon Jan 30th, 2017 11:16 pm by Bob R

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I do not think he has to worry about power and wires. I believe he is using R/C.  Stephen. 

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you can use 1/4" phono jack as a pivot and power to rails no twisted wires use a switch to change polarity

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The classic way to power a turntable is via the split rail method. Most prototype turntables have a ring rail to support the ends, usually with a two-wheel truck under the bridge. You duplicate this on your model, but cut gaps opposite each other a quarter turn between the lead track and the trail tracks. Each half of the rail gets a power feeder. When you spin the table, you get automatic polarity change. You can insert a SPST switch into one of the feeds to kill power to the TT is desired. Each of the tail tracks should probably also have a kill switch.

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Thanks guys, for all the replies to my questions. I don't run steam at the moment, but just might in the future. To that end, I will make room for a turntable, water spout, coal pile, ash pit and sand house at each end of the track. Nothing fancy, just the basics. Even if I never run steam, these facilities won't look out of place. Many standard gauge lines here in the U.S. still had some of their steam era structures in place well into the 90s. Here in Rapid City the old roundhouse is still in use. To bad, from a rail fans point of view, the turntable has been removed.
Larry G

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The best way I ever used to power a turntable is to use a large PHONO plug...male & female. The plug can provide the pivot and power without pesky wires or wipers and makes for a simple, accurate installation. How about that?

Woodie
*** for r/c, it makes a great pivot anyway! Forget the stinkin' wires******

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Agree....if your wiring a turntable the phono plug is easiest although it requies a switch to reverse power.  Split rings will accomplish power switch but are more complicated to install.  Itty bitty locos work great on CDs.
Made another ash pit this morning.  Not as rustic as the other (post #62) and still needs finishing with ash, weathering etc.
Bob

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Last edited on Fri Feb 3rd, 2017 11:40 pm by Bob R

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Also began slopping on some initial ground cover at Furniss.
Bob

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Ain't no slopping as far as I'm concerned. Very nice scenery indeed. Keep it up.

Woodie

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Continuing work on ground cover at Furniss.  Still wet when this picture was taken so it will appear lighter when dry.
Bob

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With steam now running the ash pit has been in use.
Bob

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The second Shapeways 3 Ton Bagnall is almost complete now and ready to enter service as soon as the engineer is painted.  I am really pleased with these new additions.  I will need one more steamer at minimum to enable all three operating areas to be active at once.  I would like to have something different but the same basic size.  The Decauville 3 Ton 040 appeals to me but I dont know where to get an outside frame mechanism that would work with the Shapeways offering.  Anyone out there that can advise me?
You can see in the picture the first auto that will backdate the layout to 1927.

Bob

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I'm seriously missing an ash dump at Updah's service area so, if you don't mind Bob, I'll take your design and plagiarise it as I might just manage to get it to fit.

By the way, the motive power at Furniss is looking great.

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slateworks wrote: I'm seriously missing an ash dump at Updah's service area so, if you don't mind Bob, I'll take your design and plagiarise it as I might just manage to get it to fit.

By the way, the motive power at Furniss is looking great.

Of course.  I also had limited space as steam was an after thought.  Thus I have small coal bins and water columns rather than tanks.
#5 has an engineer now.  
Bob

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Added a coal bin and water column at Furniss today.  Now I can service the little steamers at all three towns.
Bob

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Very nice work! Will you supply a shovel or do the crews need to buy some??
OR, as Bobby D sang-"the pump don't work 'cause the vandals stole the handle"

BTW, I dig the fact that you put NBW's on the inside of the boards...most seldom do this important detail!

Woodie

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Flu season got the best of me and I have not accomplished a lot during the past few weeks. Got busy and started filling in scenery around Furniss and the main line from Furniss around the water heater, across the water softener and to the tunnel leading to Maryville.
Bob

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I will someday learn to paint a backdrop and this narrow section will be tree covered.
Bob

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Hi Bob :wave:


Sorry to hear about the flu ! :f:

Thought you might be 're-routing' due to new water-softener !! ;)


The photos look GREAT as usual.

Those new steamers are real PEACHES !


All the best.


:moose:


Si.

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Better n' better!

Woodie

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Si. wrote:

Thought you might be 're-routing' due to new water-softener !! ;)



Although I didn't have to reroute the track, I did have to rebuild the section over the water softener.  The closest I could come on the new one was one a little higher and rectangular versus round.  Wasn't to difficult but change always presents it's little problems.
Before someone asks....the new section is a lift out attached with a couple wingnuts.
Bob

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Last edited on Fri Mar 10th, 2017 04:47 am by Bob R

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It looks quite 'industrial' Bob !


Maybe you can run some tankcars from that spot.


Could be a good new industry ! ;)


Folks always need water. :bg:


:moose:


Si.


I think Woodie would add rust-streaks & grime to the pipework !! ;)

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Si. wrote: It looks quite 'industrial' Bob !


Maybe you can run some tankcars from that spot.


Could be a good new industry ! ;)


Folks always need water. :bg:


:moose:


Si.


I think Woodie would add rust-streaks & grime to the pipework !! ;)
Whats that you say?  Water services.
I am thinking of a dense grouping of trees to disguise the hole in the wall.  Was thinking the same for the pipes.  Your correct though, Woodie would use his skills to rust up the pipes and turn them into a believable looking industry.
Bob

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Hi Bob: Looks like a chance to turn "lemons into lemonade. Nice modeling - your ground cover looks very realistic. Thanks for sharing.
Talk soon
Dick w

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I might consider a "big old rock outcropping" to cover the pipes.If you were modeling a mining road, then a smelter would work just fine there.

WCG

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Surprise visit by the boss.  Think he might be showing off his new 1927 Ford.
Bob

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Made the mistake of taking the macro lense into the layout room.  Now I am afraid to go in there.
Bob

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Hi Bob,
L: Now you need a scale shotgun to get into your hobby room-


It's only a little rattler. It shouldn't hurt too much if you get bit

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After discovering the snake I took a closer look and find there are critters evrywhere.
Bob

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After a little operating I realized the congestion that occurs in Furniss area when a local engine is accompanied by another transferring cars dictates the need for a engine "storage" track.  So, I added a track off the turntable.  It also helps to fill in an area that was very barren.
Bob

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Last edited on Thu Mar 16th, 2017 04:13 pm by Bob R

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Good idea.
Love the ash pit!

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Never able to leave things as they are, I decided to add another engine storage track off the Furniss turntable.  There was a blank spot there after all.
Bob

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It has always bothered me that the siding at Baden's Industries was shorter than the dock. The track was laid before positioning the building.  I corrected that this morning adding another car length to the siding.  Much better.
Bob

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nicely doneCor

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Hi Bob,
Oh that IS NICE :bow::bow:

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Bob,
Beautiful modeling work, and I really enjoy reading the story of the miniature world you are building. Looking forward to your future posts on your progress.
Keith

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Marvellous air of small town make-do-and-mend Bob. it's all developing very nicely.

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I like what I am seeing, also!



Herb

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After a long time I have finally settled on the products to be produced by Furniss Mfg.  An internet search of small manufacturing at the turn of the century led me to discover that the electric toaster (who doesn't have one of these) was patented in 1905 by Albert Marsh after discovering Nichrome (nickel and cromium) was an effective heating element.  The first successful introduction was by General Electric in 1909.  Seemed like a great small manufacturing product for the Geneseo Railway in 1927.  Gotta love history.Bob

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Bob

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Looking great Bob. I like all the little industries surrounded by nature.

Alwin

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HOT!!!

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Bob

Gotta love the name! I really enjoy that kind of thing, a company name that is not too obvious or "cute", but after you see it a couple times you "get it" (Takes me more views, but that's another story).

But the modeling---it is champion quality.  I know that I mentioned that a while back, but each time that I look at your photos, I appreciate it more.

Herb

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Well it is time to start turning some of the dried plant into trees.  I need about 100 more. Started preparing 4 today. The trunks need painting and then they can be permanently planted.  

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Was really quiet when I entered the train room this morning.  I overheard a short conversation at the repair shop.......
Bob

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Last edited on Fri Apr 7th, 2017 05:34 am by Bob R

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@Bob Maybe you can improve the looks of your trees by applying the methods laid out in  here. Please do not take this as a sort of fault-finding in somebody else's work. Your modeling is top-notch.

Last edited on Thu Apr 6th, 2017 11:20 pm by Helmut

Bob R
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Helmut wrote: @Bob Maybe you can improve the looks of your trees by applying the methods laid out in  here. Please do not take this as a sort of fault-finding in somebody else's work. Your modeling is top-notch.Helmut,
No offense taken.  Good article on trees.  May be a consideration for some prominent up front trees.  Not sure I would undertake this method for the 100 or so trees I need at present. Nine of the thirteen I made the past couple days.
ThanksBob

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Last edited on Fri Apr 7th, 2017 03:16 am by Bob R

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Once the backdrop gets painted with  a scene of many trees I hope these will look better.  A blue background does not do much for the scene.
Bob

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Hi Bob :wave:


Lookin' good !


The guy in the blue shirt, checkin' out the new Ford...

...reminds me of a dude I know !!


I do like all your figures Bob. :bg:


:moose:


Si.

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Si. wrote: Hi Bob :wave:


Lookin' good !


The guy in the blue shirt, checkin' out the new Ford...

...reminds me of a dude I know !!


I do like all your figures Bob. :bg:


:moose:


Si.
He should.  He is a figure of Sheriff Andy Taylor of Mayberry N.C.  The Andy Griffith Show back in the early 60's.  Opie's dad.

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Bob R wrote: Once the backdrop gets painted with  a scene of many trees I hope these will look better.  A blue background does not do much for the scene.
Bob

I've found fading to light gray at the bottom works wonders. the sky is almost white at the horizon.

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Boredom set in the past few days!  
The area behind the door was to tempting to ignore any longer so the benchwork got a little longer.  The area is 6 foot wide - enough room for another small operating area with a run around and three sidings.  Since the turntable at Geneseo is essentailly between the two areas, it will serve both.  May call this Geneseo East and the original Geneseo West.
The wall and door on the left enter into the downstairs family room (800SF).  Next I envision a tunnel through the wall and free standing (Woodie's Mogollon style) modules invading that space.  Darn you Woodie....
Bob

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Last edited on Mon Apr 17th, 2017 03:59 am by Bob R

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Hi Bob :wave:


Looks like there's no stopping you !

Geneseo East ... I like it !!


Do I recognize that trackplan ? ;)


:moose:


Si.

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Track work is progressing faster than I imagined.  I have two of the five turnouts in and about 1/2 of the track.  I also added the facia board to clean up the edges.  I expect to be operating Geneseo East in a week.
Bob

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"Dang me, dang me...outta take a rope and hang me. Tie from the highest treeeeeee...oh woman would you weep for me. Do do do doodle doodle da da da"-Ray Stevens song lyrics

Woodrow

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I think it is a Roger Miller song. Railroad looks great Bob. 
Stephen. 

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Right you are...Dang me!

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Geneseo East is now operational.  Helps that there is no wiring, rail gapping or other silly stuff with Dead Rail.  Next step will be to mock up some buildings.  Oh yes and I will need more rail cars to occupy the sidings.  
Bob

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Shapeways has provided the basis for a third steamer.  I think I will be using the same Bachmann mechanism for it as used on the Bagnalls since I can not find an appropriate outside frame 040 one to use.  I will also have to make cylinders, front and rear sections and add details to it.  
Daniel Caso's Decauville 3 ton locomotive is the inspiration and will provide ideas for detailing. I don't have his patience or skills but will be satisfied if I can achieve something close.

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nice small loco:moose::moose:
bachmann has a 4-4-0 with outside framemaybe an option?Cor

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A few modifications.....   Added front and rear end boards and raised the roof.  Shot a coat of primer on it.  Still a lot to do and add.

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I really enjoy seeing any pictures of your empire. 
Stephen 

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Added most of the details.  Still need to detail the cylinders with NBW castings.  Then paint and weathering.  Looking forward to having a third tea kettle operating.

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A few more details and an engine number.  About time to weather it and install the RC gear and battery.  

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Happy to report that engine #7 is now complete and running.  I installed two lipo cells this time so expect better run time.  I get 1 to 1 1/2 hour on the single cell engines with a 300 mah cell.  This one has two 280 mah cells with a Pololu 9 volt regulator.  Stepping from 7.4 volt to 9 volt should be more efficient than 3.7 volt to 9 volt.  Tomorrow I will paint the engineer and add him.

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Last edited on Wed May 3rd, 2017 08:24 pm by Bob R

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The steam fleet now totals three.........

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Last edited on Wed May 3rd, 2017 08:24 pm by Bob R

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I made a few modifications to the basic shell I bought from Shapeways.  I raised the roof, made steam cylinders, added a bunch of rivets and added backhead details (guages, valves, brake and reversing levers etc) from a Bagnall set.  Made a few more details from scraps.  I know nothing about steam controls.  I just imagined things that looked neat to my eye.  So - don't be to critical.

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Done!  Now, on to the next project.

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Last edited on Wed May 3rd, 2017 08:22 pm by Bob R

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Outstanding, Bob! Now, how about numbers 1-4?

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1 through 4 have been around a long time.  They are my original gas-mechanical critters.  All are scratch built and also battery powered radio controlled.

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Ran my first test of #7 using a 2S lipo (7.4 volt).  I am very encouraged.  I charged it and ran it for 30 minutes.  The battery took 48 mah on recharge!  That would indicate about 3 hours on a charge, which is more than twice as long as I am getting on a single cell in the other two engines.  All have exactly the same mechanisms, radio gear and weight.

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Last edited on Wed May 3rd, 2017 10:43 pm by Bob R

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BEE-UTE-FULL lokies.

Woodie

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I'm betting you are also getting smoother operation with the higher voltage too.

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mwiz64 wrote: I'm betting you are also getting smoother operation with the higher voltage too.Not really.  I am using a 9 volt regulator so the input (battery) voltage has no effect.  Voltage is stepped up to a constant 9 volts until the battery voltage drops below the cutoff and then the engine simply stops.

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So if the system is operating at the same voltage at the motor then the current draw is also the same at the motor for a given load. It's no wonder your getting more runtime with the 2S battery. You're essentially running two fuel tanks instead of one AND the voltage regulator has less work to do so it's operating more efficiently. Nice upgrade...

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mwiz64 wrote: So if the system is operating at the same voltage at the motor then the current draw is also the same at the motor for a given load. It's no wonder your getting more runtime with the 2S battery. You're essentially running two fuel tanks instead of one AND the voltage regulator has less work to do so it's operating more efficiently. Nice upgrade...If my understanding is correct...stepping the voltage up less with a 2 cell results in about 1/2 the current draw through the regulator.  That creates the increase in run time.  All magic to me but I am happy with the outcome.  
Making a little progress on the new track area at Geneseo East.

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Yes, that's one way of explaining it. Because the motor is seeing the same voltage from both batteries "9v", the regulator is doing half the work... and the battery has twice as many electrons in it if you've kept the individual cell capacity the same but now are running two of them.

Also, running a higher voltage is always more efficient than running a higher current draw. Current is what creates the heat and heat is just wasted energy. As long as you have the space for more cells, you're better off as everything runs cooler. Of course, there is cell ballancing to consider too.

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mwiz64 wrote:  Of course, there is cell ballancing to consider too.I have been using small lipo batteries for many years (indoor model RC planes).  I have rarely experienced any balance problems.  When encountered I will balance charge the batteries.  Not a big problem.  It is easy to install a 3 pin charge plug to enable balance charging if desired.  For space reasons I usually just have a 2 pin and rely on batteries being close to equal.  Those that come from same manufacturing batch are usually close.

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There is really no excuse for a battery mfg not matching a two cell pack very closely but some cheap ones might not be. Some people here think the issue of fires won't occur with lipos used in trains because they are used so gently. They believe it's only the RC guys that have problems because of high current draw and fast charging. To some extent, they are right. Those use regimens do increase the risk of imbalanced packs. But...Samsung had a problem with their phones that became big news and so have some people had problems with their vapor cigarette devices. Those people are using their batteries even more gently than a train. 
It has little to do with use and everything to do with an overcharged cell. It can happen due to imbalance, especially over time. It's gradual but it can add up to disaster. Just for the heck of it,  occasionally balance charge your multi cell lipos. It's better to be safe than sorry and it's not that hard nor are balancing chargers very expensive, these days. 
I'm not really talking to you here, Bob but more others that may be reading this discussion.

Last edited on Tue May 9th, 2017 09:27 am by mwiz64

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Mike,  Agree with your comments.  Overcharging is the usual reason for battery failure.  Relying on a battery protection circuit (BPC) as often recommended and used in cell phones and most other portable devices can be risky.  I use fully adjustable quality chargers and can observe the charge on screen.  Most cell phones use a simple charger that never stops providing current.  If the BPC fails......
That said a BPC is valuable to provide low voltage cutoff. Suggest any further general discussion of battery management and RC use be made in the Radio Control forum, unless it is specific to Geneseo Rwy.

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WILCO

Sorry for the thread drift, Bob.

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With the addition of the fourth operating area I just could not help myself so built another little steamer.  It is another side tank from Shapeways with the same radio gear as the other three.  

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Added an engineer to #8.  Officially done now and in operation on the layout.  

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Geez....I wish you wouldn't show such neat locos here!

Beautiful work...
Woodie

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Now that the track is complete in the fourth area, Geneseo East, and I have finished engine #8; it is time to add some structures.   Began work on a new industry.  Originally I thought about building a distillery but then occurred to me that my layout is set in 1927 and there was this thing called Prohibition.  Not sure what it will be yet.  Plan to put a large tank on the roof.

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Added ends roof and dock to the front wall.  Beginning to take shape.  After I get the super glue off my fingers I may be able to carve the bricks on the ends.  I admire those who have the ability to plan and design.  I seem to always just begin building and then be surprised by the result.  Generally means a lot of false starts and rebuilding.  I did not know I was going to have a loading dock.  After I looked at the wall a while it seemed the lower section was out of proportion with the upper.  The dock adds enough at the bottom to balance it out.

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Last edited on Fri Jul 28th, 2017 08:04 pm by Bob R

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Painted the ends, weathered the brick and added a little signage.  I think it will be a keeper.

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Last edited on Sun Jul 30th, 2017 05:16 am by Bob R

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Bob,
Please keep the good stuff coming. :2t: Nice job on the building and sign, 

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@Bob R
I see your industry still has to do with a boot and a leg..maybe, if your setting remains to be 90 yrs. old at any given date, the prohibition will end, too.

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@Helmut   -   great observation on "boot leg"
The sign is relatively easy to do.  In this instance I wanted a specific name for the industry.  Good friends and fellow model railroader Rusty Westermeier and Wife are who the industry is named after.  I used Word Doc to print the lettering on a piece of bond paper with an inkjet printer.  I can select any font and size to make the lettering.  After printing, I positioned a piece of wrapping tissue over the lettering.  I tape the leading edge with a couple small bits of scotch tape and reinsert the paper in the paper tray and print again.  
I let it dry well or you can lightly spray it with Dullcoat to set the ink to prevent it from running.  For this sign I painted the area of the sign white.  I brushed thinned white glue over the sign area and gently applied the lettering.  I used a small straight edge to gently push the lettering paper into the brick along the horizontal mortar grooves.  Then I let it dry thoroughly.  After dry I use an exacto to cut the paper in the vertical grooves and reapplied thinned white glue.  Then gently pushed the lettering into the vertical grooves.  Once dry I overspray with Dullcoat.
This technique also works well to print period correct color signs.  I look on internet for signs to fit my needs - copy, resize etc.

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Closeup shows how lettering appears 3D on brickwork.  The thin tissue is transparent enough to get lost on most surfaces.  If desired a little touch up with paint can cover any gaps created when cutting tissue with the exacto.   
You can apply to any surface - billboards, buildings, rolling stock.  In a large scale I used this technique to copy a photo image of a face onto a figure.  Put my son in the scene!

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Last edited on Sun Jul 30th, 2017 07:39 pm by Bob R

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Hi Bob :wave:



It's all looking totally AWESOME ! :bg:

The new switching area looks like it'll keep you guys pretty busy.



The sign technique on that brickwork looks fantastic.



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.

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Example of color sign copied from internet, printed on tissue and applied to building side.

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Last edited on Sun Jul 30th, 2017 07:53 pm by Bob R

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I like this picture.  Taken by a visitor at a recent operations session on Geneseo Rwy.  It shows how effective the tissue paper signage is.

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Last edited on Tue Aug 1st, 2017 03:04 am by Bob R

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...And it is such a fine photo of fine work!

Woodie

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Another picture taken by Dave Salamon during his visit.  He has a good photographic eye. Has nothing to do with signs but I have not created anything new to post.

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Thank you for posting, Bob! As always you have done an outstanding job. I look forward to your additions to Genesceo.

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Things sure move slowly in Geneseo.  I imagine with prohibition that there isn't a need to rush.  After all there is no pub to go to.  I did manage to add window frames and a roof top water tower to Westermeier's.

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Last edited on Sun Aug 13th, 2017 05:43 pm by Bob R

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Also began another brick building next to Westemeier's.  Not certain as I never plan ahead but it may be a part of the Westermeier complex.

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Last edited on Sun Aug 13th, 2017 05:37 pm by Bob R

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Why not have three buildings under way at once?  Began a small maintenance shed at Geneseo engine facility.

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I always enjoy seeing new pictures of your railway.  What is the green thing on the right side of the last picture? Is it attached to a tree or a pole? Some sort of electrical box?
Stephen

Last edited on Wed Aug 16th, 2017 03:52 am by Bootlegbar

Bob R
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Bootlegbar wrote: I always enjoy seeing new pictures of your railway.  What is the green thing on the right side of the last picture? Is it attached to a tree or a pole? Some sort of electrical box?
Stephen
Correct....the switch box for the light pole at the engine service area.  No photocell operation in 1927!

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Maintenance shed is now sided, roofed and has first coat of paint.

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Last edited on Fri Aug 18th, 2017 01:28 am by Bob R

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The maintenance shed is complete now.  Of course it needs clutter and details inside and out.  

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Hey Bob, don't forget a foundation, wouldn't want that nice shed door to rot away. Wood in contact with dirt, not a good situation.

Larry G

Last edited on Fri Aug 18th, 2017 11:06 pm by Larry G

Bob R
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Larry G wrote: Hey Bob, don't forget a foundation, wouldn't want that nice shed door to rot away. Wood in contact with dirt, not a good situation.

Larry G
Larry,
Rural site in 1927.     Consider the rest of layout...I like rot!

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Bob R
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Planted another building.  Black Bear Construction is between Furniss Mfg and the Rails End Pub in Furniss.  

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Planted F&F Westermeier as well.  Nice to have the buildings glued down and some ground cover started.  One more to go and all the in-progress structures will be in place.  

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Hi Rob,
Nice work on the buildings. They look right at home on the layout. Please keep the good stuff coming. 

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Yes, Bob, PLEASE!

Herb

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Geneseo East is coming together.  Will finish the building on the left and glue it in place.  Then the difficult part.....trying to fill in with details and people.

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The new building (Broakin Equipment Co.) is now basically done and glued in place.  Ran out of ground cover so need to go on a scavenger hunt and see what I can dig up.

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Well done, Bob! Simple and very effective!

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Hi Bob,You have a superb eye for what looks good. Even the sign on the front of the building is "just right". :2t::apl::apl::apl:

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Excellent modelling skills Bob and real 'atmosphere' in your detailing.

Don't worry about your cab steam fittings (Post 299), she's about driveable as modelled.   Just make the regulator handle (your red vertical lever, centre of boiler backplate crown) a little longer - it should reach to an easy lowered hand grasp for the driver; otherwise excellent.

I'm probably being thick but why do you print the lettering onto your 'bond' paper sheet before sticking the tissue paper to it ? (Post 323). Surely it is the printed tissue paper layer that you then apply to your models ?.

Regards,    Michael

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Salada wrote:
I'm probably being thick but why do you print the lettering onto your 'bond' paper sheet before sticking the tissue paper to it ? (Post 323). Surely it is the printed tissue paper layer that you then apply to your models ?.

Regards,    Michael
Good question.  This allows me to position a small piece of tissue over just the area to be printed.  A smaller piece is easier to handle and less likely to crumple up in the printer.

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AHHH! :2t::apl:

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Thanks Bob, now fully understood. I guess a certain Australian colleague also now gets it.

Regards,      Michael 

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Adding to the ground cover at Geneseo East.  The problem with not using a commercial product is trying to match existing when supplies run out.  Have not found anything that matches closely.  Did find some halfway suitable dirt but not entirely satisfied.  Oh well, if I can find something better later it is easy enough to overlay.

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Bob,

Unless your modeling a area where the soil is the same absolutely everywhere I wouldn't spend a lot of time thinking about a slight difference in ground cover. It's been my experience that the ground beneath our feet is not the same everywhere. Even in a relatively small area the soil can be different from the top of a hill to the bottom. LG

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Good point Larry.  I agree with your comments.  In pictures the new ground cover looks ok to me but in person it seems a bit to dark for my liking.  Maybe after I add more details and plant life I will adjust.

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Rained today.  Spent a little time growing some plants and added a bump stop on one siding.  Amazing how little details improve the appearance.  The problem is, each little detail takes time to build and I am so easily tempted to run the trains instead.  I must move the work bench away from the layout.  

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Ran across the junk box while under the layout and that inspired a look through the box for items to create a junk pile behind the Geneseo maintenance shed.  An old hood, 55 gal drum, some gears, wood, rubble, and parts from a smashed BIC lighter.  Painted it all with a coat of acrylic rust and highlighted with acrylic burnt and raw sienna.  Added a little dirt and weeds for good measure.  Took more time for the glue and paint to dry than to put it all together.

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Last edited on Mon Sep 18th, 2017 06:31 pm by Bob R

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Yeah! Good, appropriate stuff for junque.

Do me a favor Bob? Put a light wood frame around the Brokin Equipment sign?
As it is now, it looks to me like a paper sign that was put up temporally, with a couple tears from the wind. Of course, with that name, anything long lasting might be wishful thinking on the part of the management.

Herb

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Made three more rail cars the past couple days.  The pedestals were cut from three old plastic rail cars from England or Europe.  Found them at swap tables at train events for $.50 or $1.00.  They are all different which is keeping with the overall theme of Geneseo Railway - old junk bought second hand.

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Last edited on Wed Sep 27th, 2017 10:30 pm by Bob R

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Hi Bob,

All your cars seem to have identical buffers on the car ends. How do you make them and what material do you use?

Larry G

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Larry G wrote: Hi Bob,

All your cars seem to have identical buffers on the car ends. How do you make them and what material do you use?

Larry G

Sure Larry - make me show you the bottom of my cars so you can see how sloppy they are built!
The buffer design evolved from problems of tight radius turns and link and chain coupling.  In order to push cars through turns and turnouts it was necessary to have fairly smooth and wide buffers.  Otherwise the cars were pushed off the rails.  
I cut half moon pieces 3/4 inch diameter from 1/8 inch light ply and glued to car end.  I wrapped them with a piece of paper (weight of 3x5 cards) and attached with CA.  That hardens it as well.  The paper is about 3/16 inch high to ensure cars of varying height did not override one another.  Pins are everything from brass wire, paperclip metal to plastic rod.

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Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 05:23 am by Bob R

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Thanks Bob, Lead shot, good idea. Looks like I will need to scratch build some cars for my layout. Bachmann has raised the price of their tipper cars so high that I refuse to pay that much. I have a dozen tippers on the layout now, so that will have to be enough.

I'll be needing other types of cars so I was looking at scratch building sooner or latter. I struggle with scratch building so this is going to be interesting. Larry G

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Bob,

I'm liking the bolsters and side frames on your cars.  Where do they come from?



Larry,

I understand how you feel about the high prices of some equipment out there.  I just can't justify spending mucho dollars on one car.  My equipment is scratch built with most cars costing less than $10 including trucks and couplers.

Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 08:09 am by Michael M

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Larry - Make your own.  I drew up  templates for the tub bucket (sides and ends).  I made from card stock.  I roll the bucket piece around a dowel to get basic shape and glue in the ends with CA. Framing etc is more pieces of card stock.  When done I wick on thin CA.  It hardens the card stock and makes it like plastic.  Also creates nice texture like old metal.  Frames are made from Plastruct channel, balsa and card stock.  Rivets are Elmers glue applied with a hypo syringe and needle.  I cut end of needle flush with a dremel.  The pedestals are the axle journal pieces cut from cheap HO plastic trucks.  I usually find plenty at swap meets/shows that modelers have replaced with quality sprung trucks.

Michael - In addition to the pedestals from old foreign railcars, I have cast my own sideframes with epoxy in home made rubber molds and used commercial sideframes.  One of the best in my opinion is made by Wiseman Models.  It is the HO/On30 white metal logging disconnect kit.  Package of six is $39.95 including quality wheelsets.  I grind off the top detail and build a wood car over them.  No additional weight is needed as they are pretty hefty. 

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Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 08:47 pm by Bob R

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If you want to be even cheaper.....
Make your own channel iron from card stock.  I have been making most of mine and I beams this way.

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Last edited on Thu Sep 28th, 2017 08:57 pm by Bob R

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I like seeing the underside, Bob. It's kinda like looking behind the curtain and seeing that the Wizard is really just a man. ;)

Another option for weighting things is a substance called tungsten putty. It's a little expensive but the nice part is it can easily be pressed into unusual shapes and it's pretty heavy. You can usually find it at any place that sells fishing supplies and on-line too.

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Michael - Good closeup of the Wiseman logging disconnect used as underframe.  Note the line at each end of the sideframe just where the metal detail ends.  That is the end of the disconnects white metal casting.  I extended the frame another 3/8" with same sized wood.  End beams are 1/8 x 3/8 balsa and planks are 1/16 balsa.  Stake pockets are 3x5 card weight paper wrapped around stake with a piece of U shaped wire over them.  Painted whole thing with artists acrylic raw umber.  Then dry brushed with artists acrylic white.  Painted metal with Model Masters acrylic rust.  Then dry brushed with artists acrylic raw and burnt sienna.  Nothing fancy...but effective.

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Last edited on Fri Sep 29th, 2017 01:50 am by Bob R

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Lots of great info Bob, Thank You. When I get to building some cars I'll post pictures here and on my Appetite thread. Larry G

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Larry - another idea!  If you look around at the dollar stores for plastic ice cube trays, you will find some that the individual "cube cups" can be cut apart and used to make ore car bins.

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Bob,

Really like what you accomplish using basic materials, and your painting really brings out the details.

Have you ever used any of Tom Bell's cars from Shapeways?

Bob R
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Michael M wrote: Bob,

Really like what you accomplish using basic materials, and your painting really brings out the details.

Have you ever used any of Tom Bell's cars from Shapeways?
Not any cars.  Have been looking at a couple of the open passsenger cars. Two of my engines are Tom Bell 3D printed (No 7 and 8).  

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Last edited on Thu Oct 5th, 2017 04:08 pm by Bob R

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Howdy Bob, you might contact Tom about his neat open passenger car. I got one in 1:35n2 and it is a beauty.


Before & after shots. All I had to do was attach trucks & bolsters, couplers, paint, and desperadoes.
And it wasn't expensive either. Tom has some short cars like this which might be more what you want. Check his Shapeways listing.

Woodie

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Bob,
If you ever have a need for a small 4 wheel diesel to convert to Gn15 check this out... https://www.trainworld.com/manufacturers/model-power/model-power-966711-ddt-plymouth-lndustrial-diesel-u-p-dcc-with-sound-remote/

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:glad:Bob R wrote: Another attempt at picture posting.Very nice picture, want to see more

Kurt

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Model Power also makes a 0-4-0 with sound and remote:

http://www.modelrectifier.com/product-p/06965031.htm

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Ordered some small pedestals/journals from Shapeways for a new fleet of cars.  Finished the first two today.  

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Bob R
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Built four more cars.  The chassis are the same as first two.  Varying the end boards for variety.  Need to add the stake pockets and hardware then paint.  Have journals for two more.  That will bring total cars to 40.

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Cars 35 to 38 are now completed.

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The blank wall behind Maryville has been that way too long.  I have been debating whether to use painted backdrop, photo backdrop or relief structures.  The distance from the existing structures and the wall is quite narrow which has been part of the concern.  I finally decided to proceed with some relief structures.  The area is 8 foot long and will require several structures.  I started the first yesterday which it is now ready for paint.  

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Very nice! Are you gonna throw some "junque" around? Either way, it's a fine scene.

Woodie

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Bob, missed your postings, good to see you back. The new building is looking very nice, only 7 more feet to go. No worry, half inch scale eats up real estate quickly. Larry G

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Threw on a coat of paint, planted it with a bit of glue and added some soil around the base.  It will need a bunch of clutter to bring it to life.  

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Began building another structure behind Carl's Garage.  It will be part of a string of buildings from behind Sacsuks extending behind Lehki Valve Co.  Feels good to see the pink foam and blank wall disappear.  

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Last edited on Sat Mar 31st, 2018 11:30 pm by Bob R

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Bob, your new building flats are working great. They ground the scene and give it a presence that is missing without them. Now the rail operation looks like it is in the back alley area, where such a line would logically be located. Larry G

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Thanks Larry.  Mostly finished now.  Need to add gutters, and downspouts.  Impatient so I already glued it down and added some ground cover.  Then onto the next.  Thinking of another section like this one with a larger brick structure past it on the right side.  That will take me close to the end wall in that direction.  All fun....

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Last edited on Tue Apr 3rd, 2018 04:58 am by Bob R

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These scenes give me nothing but great inspiration,well done,I have been inspired, love these scenes.......Peter.

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Added the next building flat.  Next the brick structure.

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I love these buildings. Are you scratch building these from plans?

Mack

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No plans.  I took some pictures of the back side of buildings on the main street of a small town here in Nebraska.  I am roughly modeling after the buildings in the pictures.  Not copying any specific building, just the general style.

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Last edited on Tue Apr 3rd, 2018 05:00 am by Bob R

Mack Saunders
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You do a good job of it. Thanks for the info.

Mack

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Another day, another building.  Not sure I can keep up this pace but expect to have the wall covered soon enough.

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Overall view of the scene as it is now....

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Began work on the brick building today.  I think it will add a little variety and help to complete the scene and cover the wall. 

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Last edited on Thu Apr 5th, 2018 01:53 am by Bob R

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The brick building is complete now and glued in place.  Think I will clean off the work bench and take a short breather.  Pleased with the building flats decision.  The area looks much better now.  

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View of scene.  For perspective - the distance from camera to far wall is about 13 feet.  Now need to think about view over top and behind the structures and a sky.

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Impressive, I'm sure what ever you do beyond the new building flats will also be impressive. Larry G

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Bob,

Your work is awesome! Thank you for posting your modeling work - it's always so enjoyable and inspirational to see.

Keith

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Hi Bob :wave:



Thanks for your message. :thumb:

I'm pleased I could be of help with the photo situation. :)

They all look 'present & correct' at the moment ! :Salute:





Too many AWESOME photos ... of an all too AWESOME lil' railway ! :bg:

I just thought I'd grab one of my favorites ... among 100s of course. :cool:

I love your small details Bob ... & the track bumper says it all about that !

Very 'narrow gauge' !! ;)



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Larry G
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Hey Bob,  :2t:
More space, the stuff of every model railroaders dreams.  Layout sections mounted to the wall already, you didn't waste any time. Fantastic that you could save all the best parts of your wonderful layout.  Can't wait to see the new incarnation of the Geneseo Railway.
Larry Gant

Bob R
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Geneseo Railway has been successfully moved to it's new home.  My initial effort has been to get it operating asap.  The three towns Geneseo, Maryville and Furniss were seperated and hung on the walls at the new place.  That left fairly long areas between them.  The past week I have been busy building benchwork between them and adding track to connect them.  I also added a passing siding between each to increase operations.  One handicap in the smaller layout room was the bottleneck between each.  Room is 40 x 18.

Attachment: 20180810_162029_resized.jpg (Downloaded 151 times)

Last edited on Sat Aug 11th, 2018 11:24 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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Looking the other direction....
I have not decided how to fill the new areas.  For now it is just great that they are connected and it is operational again.

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Larry G
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Bob,
 Wow, 40'x18', looking great. I have no doubt you will find interesting ways to fill the new benchwork. Are you planing to build out into the center of the room?  
 Don't forget the sky coloring. 
Larry G

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" Room is 40 x 18 "



:shocked:  :shocked:  :shocked:  :shocked:  :shocked:



:thumb:



Si.


Bob R
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Larry G wrote: Bob,
 Wow, 40'x18', looking great. I have no doubt you will find interesting ways to fill the new benchwork. Are you planing to build out into the center of the room?  
 Don't forget the sky coloring. 
Larry G

For now I will concentrate on filling in the expanded benchwork around the room, finishing the facia and installing lighting.  There is plenty of room for expansion in the room.  For now it will be filled with family room furniture.  There are also two large store rooms - one behind end wall of picture 2 and one to the right side of the first picture.  The latter is 13x17 and will become my work room and a staging track area.  It will probably become the first area for expansion.

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Last edited on Mon Aug 13th, 2018 01:07 am by Bob R

oztrainz
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Hi Bob,
Please keep us updated on you progress as the mood and time allows. Looking Great!!!

Bob R
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Spent the better part of today installing the lighting.  I used LED can lights.  Found a new product that is fairly cheap and has adjustable "color".  Not really the color but the light hue.  They are adjustable to five temperatures from warm white 2700K to daylight 5000K and put out 800 lumens.  I wanted the coolest daylight temperature I could find.  Most LED can lights are around 3000K.  Too yellow!  Added benefit is that 16 lights only draw about 1.5 amp.

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Last edited on Sun Aug 19th, 2018 08:21 pm by Bob R

Kitbash0n30
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That came out downright professional.

Larry G
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Those LED can lights are looking great. Now you can get to the fun stuff, model building and running trains. Larry G

Bob R
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Thanks Larry.  The cool daylight color really does look right. Attached photo shows how natural color appears.

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:!: :!: :!: :!: :!:



:thumb:



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Bob R
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Have finished the lighting including removing the three fixtures in center of the room, replacing them with the LED fixtures.  Have begun painting the facia and blending the scenery to the edge of it.  
The Furniss area at the old house took a sharp turn towards the back edge around a corner.  In order to fit at new location I thought about tearing out the switch on the left end and relaying straight to the adjoining benchwork.  Instead I left the switch on the curve and added track turning it to the left.  Fashioned a small gully and culvert to blend into the adjoining section.  I am pleased with the out come. In the picture you can see the remaining ties from track that went off the back.

Attachment: 20180910_123322_resized.jpg (Downloaded 151 times)

Last edited on Mon Sep 10th, 2018 10:52 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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My scenery has all been made with sweepings from the garage floor or dirt found around this area.  That creates a problem as I now have to blend the existing and new sections and I have used different materials.  First I did not have much of past materials left and second I did not keep any notes on what was used.  I have been dealing with this issue as I blend the edges to the new fascia.  This picture shows my effort along the edge and the seam between old and new.  
Sure wish I had kept notes and materials......
The most noticeable change is with the trackage.  Ballast color is different.

Attachment: 20180919_111541_resized.jpg (Downloaded 88 times)

Last edited on Wed Sep 19th, 2018 09:00 pm by Bob R

Larry G
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People running these little tram lines use whatever is on hand to make track repairs. Ballast color just wouldn't be something they would lose any sleep over.

Larry G

Bob R
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True Larry.  I'm not to concerned.  I'll use whatever I have or can find and try blending.  I also prepared the passing siding in this area.  Turnouts were salvaged from last house and cut into the  foam.  Just laid new track between them.

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Last edited on Thu Sep 20th, 2018 02:47 am by Bob R

Bob R
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All the fascia is now completed and painted.  As the layout now will surround a family room I will have a TV built into the fascia (better than on wall above).

Attachment: 20180925_135830_resized (3).jpg (Downloaded 128 times)

Bob R
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The first major operational change will be creation of a yard on one end.  Now that there are passing sidings between the three towns it will be possible for trains to originate from the yard and return after their days work.

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oztrainz
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Hi Bob,

That looks absolutely magic  - a family room with trains and a HUGE tv for watching train videos. Keep up the good work. There are a lot of us watching that are green with envy. 
Your scenic blending looks good :2t: More please!!(no pressure, really)

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oztrainz wrote: Hi Bob,.... There are a lot of us watching that are green with envy.

Indeed! But I still really enjoy all your work Bob :2t:!
Alwin

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Are you planning on having a mini-fridge also?  You know to keep cold drinks in?

And, yes, I'm green with envy also.

Bob R
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Michael M wrote: Are you planning on having a mini-fridge also?  You know to keep cold drinks in?

And, yes, I'm green with envy also.
Actually, the family room has a full kitchen attached. Full size fridge for drinks.  It needs updating but.....  The previous owner had the basement kitchen for "canning".  Fridge is to left of cabinets.

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Last edited on Thu Sep 27th, 2018 12:15 pm by Bob R

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Cut in the turntable today and painted the ties.  Balsa ties are scraped with the edge of a saw blade and painted with acrylic raw umber then dry brushed with white.  Then began laying the track.  Adding spikes with balsa ties is quite easy.  It will take another day or two to finish laying the track mainly because of the two turnouts (that is if I have enough rail).  I am looking forward to trying out the new operating process.

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Bob R
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For those who have not been following since the beginning.....
This picture shows a closeup of balsa track painted with acrylic artists paint.  Rail is painted with Model Masters Rust and then dry brushed with raw sienna after spiking.  I glue the rail with Walthers Goo, heat set it with a soldering iron and then spike only the side visible.

Attachment: 20160409_081716_resized (2).jpg (Downloaded 85 times)

Last edited on Thu Sep 27th, 2018 11:55 pm by Bob R

Larry G
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Bob, I tried the Wathers Goo method of laying rail many years ago, couldn't make it work. Did I not use enough heat? This method would be much faster than the hand spiking I have been doing.

Larry G

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Made a bit of progress on the yard today.  Have to build the top on the turntable and install the ground throws on the switches.

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The new yard is operational.  Had a friend over today to test it out.  The ground throws and throw bars were installed, a bunch of the spikes and the turn table deck was added and painted.  

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W C Greene
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Howdy Larry, years ago we used PLIOBOND contact cement to hold rails down, not GOO. For some reason, the heat made the GOO go to hell! I had an HOn3 line with code 40 rail glued down with the PLIOBOND...slathered on the bottom of the rail and then when dry, held in place with some track gauges and a soldering iron slowly drawn across the rail heads. Worked like a champ and later I used the same method on code 70 rail. Of course back a while, flanges on wheels were deeper than now so the track had a smoother ride. These days, I hold the code 83 down with a spot of CA and when I have a length done come back and spike the rails. CA and some "kicker" works great (at least for me).

Woodie

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With the addition of the yard it was my intention to change the operations.  Now trains are dispatched from the yard to one of the three towns.  Upon arriving at a town the operator will spot the cars according to the car cards, pick up any cars on the sidings serviced, move any cars picked up whose next destination is within that town and then return all outbound cars to the yard and receive another assignment.  This adds another operator to handle the yard.  The first operational test was yesterday.  We ran it for three hours and all went smoothly.  I am pleased with the change.
I have added two sidings in the new areas as well as completing all ballasting and basic ground cover at yard and one of the sidings.

Attachment: 20181008_162405_resized.jpg (Downloaded 106 times)

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Coming together nicely.

Larry G
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I am liking what you have accomplished in such a short time. The finished, uncluttered look of your new space is also very nice.
Larry G

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Larry G wrote: Bob, I tried the Wathers Goo method of laying rail many years ago, couldn't make it work. Did I not use enough heat? This method would be much faster than the hand spiking I have been doing.

Larry G
With relocation of Geneseo Railway etc I had the occasion to remove some rail that had been in place a couple years.  It was glued down with Walthers Goo and heated by a soldering iron.  You can see in the picture that when removed it pulled the wood from the ties.

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Larry G
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Bob, when I finish what I have on my plate right now I will expand the bench work into new territory. That is where I intend to try gluing my rails in place. Rails are already in place on the section I am working on now.

LG

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Added another grade crossing between Maryville and the yard entrance.  Still wet and I have to add some greenery.  It helps the transition from Maryville which is from old layout to the new benchwork where the yard is laid.

Attachment: 20181014_132518_resized.jpg (Downloaded 154 times)

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Also added basic ground cover to the yard (also still wet).  I am thinking of building a small bluff along the wall behind the yard.  Some rock faces and dense foilage and trees along the top.  It might help to disguise the flatness of the layout.

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My technique is pretty simple.  I usually paint the base with acrylics.  A mix of raw umber and white to get a tan color.  No formula just squirt some of each and brush around using water to thin and spread it.  Then I cover with dirt.  I look for some that is near the color I want.  If too dark I add some plaster of paris to lighten it.  I do bake the dirt first to ensure there are no bugs etc appearing later.  Spray with wet water and glue with thinned PVA.  I thin to about 25 percent glue 75 percent water and a few drops of detergent. Ground foam and other stuff added to create foilage, grass etc.

Attachment: 20181014_131320_resized.jpg (Downloaded 134 times)

Larry G
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Adding a bluff along the wall should work well. Maybe some small building flats, behind the foliage, to give the illusion of being off in the distance.

Larry G

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The beginning of the area behind the yard.....

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Awesome keep the pics coming. :)

Larry G
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The new higher ground is giving the scene a real presence. 
Larry G

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Bob, you have made not only a layout, but you have also made art. 

Amazing looking layout!


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Have not accomplished much the past few days...train has been held up.

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Rails End pub was located in a corner against a wall before the layout was moved to the new house.  There was no back on it.  With the new location it is necessary to finish the building.  Looking around I found a nice building front on one of the kits sold by MicroMark which would fit the need.  I decided to lengthen Rails End and build a front.  Began it yesterday...

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Bob R
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Plan is for it to look like this when completed.

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A little more progress on the end of the Rails End Tavern...
The brickwork on the left will not be applied until affixed to the building.  The sign is not set in place yet.  It will be blended into the building front and look painted on when done.

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Last edited on Tue Nov 6th, 2018 01:33 am by Bob R

Bob R
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Getting close to finishing...

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That's come on beautifully Bob. The interior shot is most effective.

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slateworks wrote: That's come on beautifully Bob. The interior shot is most effective.

Thanks. 
Quite simple.  I find an appropriate picture on the internet, size it correctly and position it behind the window.   
A picture can be printed several times, cut into seperate parts (bar, person, bar back etc) and then seperated with spacers to create more depth.

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Done....  Well there is always room for some added details, but; it is complete enough to consider the Rails End Tavern finished.

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Morning...

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Just looked through this entire thread again.

It looks like a really fun layout. Do you do operations on it much, or are you more of a builder. I do see the cards next to the new yard, so you must run it.

I wish you had more photos in progress. I love the hand made wood buildings on the layout.

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Nice building Bob!

Alwin

Bob R
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Traingeekboy wrote: Just looked through this entire thread again.

It looks like a really fun layout. Do you do operations on it much, or are you more of a builder. I do see the cards next to the new yard, so you must run it.

I wish you had more photos in progress. I love the hand made wood buildings on the layout.


I began the layout in Dec 2014 for my personal pleasure.  I operated it regularly.  
Two years ago I decided to open the door to others.  I have had many operating sessions.  
Currently I operate with four people, generally for three hours per session.  It has really expanded my appreciation of operations.  
Expanding the layout for better operations is the primary reason I have moved to a new house.

In 2017 I joined in a group (OSOmaha.com) which hosts people from other cities who come to operate local layouts.  
I had two operating sessions during the operating weekend that year.  
We are having another operating weekend in June 2019 and I am looking forward to it.  
I have volunteered to host four sessions during it.


Bob R
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Traingeekboy,
I started another small building.  I will post pictures as it progresses.  
A simple building - nothing special.  Foamboard basic frame with siding cut from cereal box cardboard.

Attachment: 20181109_095931_resized.jpg (Downloaded 88 times)

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A little more siding....

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Thanks. 
I like to see how other modelers do things.

People who have been scratch building for a long time develop little tricks that they assume everyone knows about.

I have trouble cutting a straight line on a piece of plastic, so any pointers help.
I'm seeing one little trick right on these drawings. 
Mark where doors will be, but if they do not open, then just leave the backing material there so you can glue the door onto it. Duh! 

Seems logical, but it's just another thing most modelers might overlook.:2t:



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Howdy Bob, it just keeps getting better n' better! 
On the ops sessions, I don't have anybody close now to help operate, one passed on and another lives 40 miles away. 
Anyway, when the old layout was outside, the neighborhood moms would see my ops partners pull up, 
and they would gather their kiddies inside so they couldn't hear the hollering and bad language we used while running and using link & pin couplers! 
I really miss those times...

Woodie

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Woodie,
Ops sessions surely do add to the enjoyment.  
Understand the thoughts on link and pin!  
Pin and chain is a lot easier but some of the shaky handed still have difficulty.  It is fun to watch though.  
I need to find an excuse to travel to east Texas and give those link and pin a try.

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Addition of a few trees helps the scene.....

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In the process of moving I decided one of my show/display layouts had to go.  
Today I cut it up, salvaging some of the items ( structures, trees etc).  I added a couple to the new layout.  
Of course they will need to be blended in with ground cover etc.
Picture is the quaint little station from the display layout.
One of the advantages of building on a foam base is the ease of removing and reinstalling items.

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Bob R
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Another addition from the display layout is a small shed.

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Larry G
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That's great that you can reuse some of your models. 

I hate to see excellent modeling just siting on a shelf collecting dust.

Larry G


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Another little recycling.  I used part of a girder bridge to span a gap I cut in the layout.

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Bob R
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With the next OS Omaha event coming in June my goal is to get all the new benchwork covered with basic scenery.  
Nothing special, just do not want any pink or blue foam showing by that time.  
Trees in corner are also scraped from the display layout.

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Larry G
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I like that you have scenery above and below the track level.

Larry G

Bob R
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My elevation differences do not compare with yours Larry.

Added ground cover and some clutter to blend shack into scene.  Being impatient I took the picture while it was still wet.

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When I did a small N scale layout, I wanted it to appear "finished", so I made myself cover 1 square foot of layout with scenery every day.

I can't tell how much is left on your layout, but the "covered" effect does make a difference.



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"My elevation differences do not compare with yours Larry."

Bob, yes, the Black Hills elevation changes are more pronounced than the area you are modeling. 
But, you and I model very different areas. 
You're more or less flat land area still has some hills and valleys. 
Personally, I feel that even slight changes in elevation make a layout more interesting.

Larry G

Bob R
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Step two on the deep ravine and bridge....Add abutments that were also canibalized from the scrapped display layout.

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Bob R
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Step three.....start to add some color.

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Traingeekboy
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Lookin' good. Can't wait to see more pics. :)

Last edited on Sat Nov 17th, 2018 11:07 pm by Traingeekboy

Larry G
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Bob, The stones in your bridge abutments, are they individual or carved into a block of some sort?

Larry G

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Still recycling from the display layout I cut up.  This time I used one of the culverts that I cut from the layout.  As with the station, shed and turnouts I set it on the layout - drew a line around edges - cut hole in layout and glued the culvert in.

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After adding a little ground cover and soaking with thinned PVA it is taking on a decent appearance.  Not bad for a couple hours play.  When the glue dries it will be a bit lighter and look better.

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Last edited on Sat Dec 15th, 2018 09:01 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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Still have three more pieces to add when I decide where to put them.  Then I will have to actually begin building models again.

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Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Oh...! That last little scene is another beauty!  :old dude:
Daniel

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Glad to see you saved, and plan to reuse, the little tipper car dump scene, I think it's a clever use of a small space. 
Larry G

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Daniel,
I don't have your skill when it comes to marrying a building to the scene. 
If I don't glue them down and add ground cover around the base mine just look like they are setting on the layout. 
Of course with foam as a base it is not difficult to remove and reuse them.


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Daniel Osvaldo Caso wrote: Oh...! That last little scene is another beauty! 
The ore would probably not meet with your approval.  The ore is a pile of rivets. 
The scene was built to offend prototype fanatics that look down upon freelanced/non-scale modelling.


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W C Greene
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Howdy Bob, the reason that the 'counters look down on you is that all they do is count nits and DON'T BUILD ANYTHING!
Or if they even tried, they couldn't touch your workmanship.
Around here there's an old saying-"We shoot every third rivet counter and the second one just left!"

Woodie


Bob R
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Back to the building I started a while ago.  Have finished sides.  Will attack roof next and the add paint.

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Photo image from the internet.  I will finish it by cutting away the bottom part and creating some 3 dimensional element to it. 
I used to build all my doors and windows which was the least fun of all the building. 
In the past year I have started using photo images as they work great for everything but contest models. 
Using the internet to find suitable images and "Paint" to resize, I can custom fit with ease.
Once I find the image I can change the aspect ratio to fit the specific opening on the building.  No planning necessary! 
On some I add pieces of wood to create depth.  Sometimes I will cut out windows and back with clear plastic and blinds etc. 
On the Rails End Pub I set a 3D picture behind the window to create an interior without having to build one.  
Bottom line.....I am lazy.


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Bob, nothing wrong with using photos from the internet, I've been doing just that for several years.
I see the net as a tool to be used to save many hours of tedious modeling. If it works, why not use it.
Your new building is looking really nice, as usual. 
I need to thank you for introducing me to the joys, and cost savings, of using cerial box card stock for lap siding.  

Larry G


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Finished siding and roof and added primer.  

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The photo image for doors is really impressive.

It looks real enough to me.

Bob R
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Have the little building pretty much complete now. 
Once again took picture while everything was still wet.  Gotta develop patience someday.
Cutting the bottom and top of the door and adding some wood for depth and dimension really helps it to appear 3D.


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Bob R
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Overall view...

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Bob R
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Visiting a friends layout last Friday, I was offered a few diecast cars in 1/25th scale. 
One was a 1928 Chevrolet pickup which was appropriate for the Geneseo Railway. 
Of course being a diecast commemorative bank it was a little to shiny for my taste.


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Bob R
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Removing a few screws, disassembling and painting it took on the character of the layout.

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Bob R
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Looks ok from both ends.

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Decided to add a deck on the little girder bridge today. 
You would think I would finish one project before moving o the next. 
Seem to have a lot of incomplete projects.


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Lee B
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Bob, I utterly ADORE your work.
great stuff!

Bob R
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I started adding some scenery to cover the pink foam adjacent to the bridge. 
I thought I needed a little more elevation to the otherwise flat benchwork. 
Still a long way to go but at least I have started. 
Being to lazy to make castings I just broke up some 2 inch thick foam and painted it.


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Larry G
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The broken foam looks very convincing, did you add anything over the foam beside paint?

Larry G

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Larry G wrote: The broken foam looks very convincing, did you add anything over the foam beside paint?

Larry G


Not really.  I added some plaster to the joints to hide them.  Have done a bit more now.


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Keith Pashina
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Bob,

I like the look of your foam board hillside - it is very convincing and it helps dwarf the train.

Thanks for the ongoing posting of your modeling work!

Keith

Nice Guy Eddie
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" Well, Eddie, I think you'll change your opinion if your boss tries to reduce your payment. Don't you ? "


Its hard to reduce $0.00c any further


I was a Kodachrome kid

Folk used to think twice before clicking and winding on

The kids these days fill up memory cards at machine gun rates


Perhaps I should ask my boss for a virtual payment

Maybe one of those new bitcoin things


:f:


Eddie


Bob R
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View from other direction....   Obviously I need to add a great deal more plant life and trees.

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Last edited on Wed Jan 9th, 2019 07:32 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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Couple closeups to show the texture achieved with simple broken foam rock work. 
Here you can see the smoothness of the plaster applied between sections. 
If I weren't so lazy I would have carved a little to make the plaster less smooth.


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Bob R
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Another...      Much easier and faster than rock molds.  In my opinion, for most areas this is plenty satisfactory.

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Last edited on Wed Jan 9th, 2019 09:26 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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This picture shows the area before paint and ground cover.  The hillside was cardboard lattice with paper towel dipped in plaster of paris.

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Daniel Osvaldo Caso
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Now you are talking!!!

Thank you, Bob.

Our fellow John Vogelaar also uses the frocks method.
He told me he cover the foam with a layer of latex wall paint.
I must try again.

Thank ypou for the inspiration.

Daniel

I did some ten years ago but the results where absolutely not comparable with your work.
May be next time I'll learn a bit more.


Bob R
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I am familiar with your work Daniel.  Your humility almost exceeds your modeling ability.
I used artists acrylics.  Mostly a base of raw umber dry brushed with white. 
Since I first saw Troels Kirk's video on painting with acrylics I have used his techniques for almost everything. 
Quick, easy and inexpensive.  What more could you ask?


Bob R
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Hard foam insulation type.  Bought in 4x8 sheets. 
I generally use a hack saw blade to make an angled cut into the edge of the foam and then break out the part loosened. 
Goes quickly and ends up very random. 
The hard foam is very firm, takes the paint well and stands up to lotsa abuse. 


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Bob R
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The room on the other side of the stairwell is unfinished except for a bunch of "canning" shelves. 
It is 13 x 17 ft and the area under the stairs is about 4 x 10 ft.  Room enough for two more towns.  Too great a temptation! 
Not sure when that will happen but it was necessary to tunnel through before scenery is done in that corner of the room. 
Under the stairs will be the little town of Hydan (pronounced hidden) and the distant one in the other room will be Farr.


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Bob R
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First step is the tunnel through the wall and the switch and trackage to the tunnel.


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Bob R
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Finished the switch to Farr and Hydan this morning.


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Larry G
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Bob, what are you using for a throw rod on your stub turnouts?

How do you attach the rod to the rails?

Larry G


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Bob R
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The throw bar system is quite simple.
 
I used a piece of 1/16 x 3/16 Basswood. 
I solder a strip of shim brass across the bottom of the two rails with the correct gauge.
Then I drill a hole near the inside of each rail. 
I place this assembly on top of the throw bar wood and drill the wood through the holes in the brass. 
This ensures the gauge is correct.
 
Then I cut the brass strip leaving just the plates on each rail. 
I insert two pins through the bottom of the throw bar and slip the rail sections on the pins and solder. 
I then cut off the excess length of the pins. 
This allows the rails to pivot on the throw bar eliminating any tension during movement.
It also allows better alignment than having both rails rigidly affixed to the throw bar.
The pins I use are from Hobby Lobby or Michaels jewelry section. A package of many is a couple bucks. 
The excess that I cut off is set into the base to limit throw bar movement and as a strap over the throw bar to keep it in position.

I should point out that I set a small piece of 1/8 inch ply under the throw bar area of each switch
so there is a solid base to attach pins and switch stand to.

My layout is operated almost daily and has had quite a bit of use. 
To date, I have not had any failures. 
They seem to be holding up very well.


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Bob R
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News flash.....

The blasting crew made it through the wall and the track gang made quick work of laying the track towards Hydan and Farr.


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Larry G
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Thank you for such a detailed explanation.
I will be running out of my Peco turnouts and think some stub turnouts would be a great addition to my layout.

Larry G


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Stubs are simple, reliable and easy to build.  Best of all they are unusual in modeling.

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With the spur to Hydan and Farr complete it was time to incorporate another of the scrapped features. 
I cut up one of the culverts and decided on a location. 
First step was to mark the location.


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Bob R
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Then I cut out the existing foam.

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Bob R
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Next I cut the front fascia to the needed shape and roughed in the parts.

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After a bit of dirt and plant life all that is needed is time for the diluted PVA to dry.

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Larry G
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Bob, you may have answered this before,
What and how do you make the stone blocks I see around the culvert?

LG



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Another quick, simple yet effective process. 
Made from the same ol' pink or blue construction foam. 

First I cut pieces - basically the thickness I desire the stones to be. 
Then cut them to roughly 1/2 inch width. 
I tear them down the middle by pinching between my fingers. 
This creates a ragged edge in the center but a smooth surface on out side edges.
I tear these strips into stones. 

Usually I pre-cut a piece of card stock the size and shape of the block wall. 
I glue the stones to the card stock. 
The one pictured was painted raw umber with artists acrylics and dry brushed with white when dry. 
Add a little dirt and plant life and you are done.
 
You can see these many place on my layout. 
Culverts, bridge abutments, building foundations etc.


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Michael M
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The stub turnout looks great!

I just finished building a point switch and making the points was a pain. 
I find making stub switches much easier.


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Given that there had to be a geological reason for the drainage culvert I got busy today and added a drainage gully on the other side of the track. 
As most who have followed this thread know I never plan anything in advance. 


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Bob R
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I also added a grade crossing near the bridge I added a short time ago.  I think it helps to create the illusion of depth. 
Also note that I fell prey to the Shapeways site again.  I ordered two of the small coaches.
Once finished they will bring passenger service to the little railway.


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Larry G
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Bob, Thanks for the very good explanation of your great looking stonework. I was guessing it was clay or putty.

Drainage is something that I try to keep in mind. Your drainage situation looks very convincing.

Larry G

Bob R
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I also ordered the semi open coach that Tom Bell offers. 
The inspiration/desire for these small coaches is of course the fine coach that you produced and is prominently displayed on Woodie's layouts. 
Very nice. 


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The mail came today and I now have both coaches and trucks. 
I chose Tom Bell's 1/35n2 Gilpin Tram trucks. 
They seem to fit nice and are correct gauge.


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Bob R
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Initial painting done.  Need to letter, weather and find some figures to ride the rails in these rickety little coaches.

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W C Greene
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BEE-UTE-FULL! Yes, Tom produces some mighty fine stuff.
I have some 1:35n2 trucks and a wonderful open tour car...maybe you could get him to do one in 1:24 scale ???

Woodie





Here she is. All I did was make an underframe, paint the car, and find some dudes to ride.


Bob R
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Found some suitable figures on the Shapeways site.  Awaiting their arrival.  Them and windows should complete this project.

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Slatted wood on underside of roof was added.

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Si.
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:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Geneseo  :pimp:  Rly.



Si.


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Nice cars Bob. That last photo looks very real. A great atmosphere there.

Alwin

Bob R
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Acquired a 1916 Studebaker diecast and repainted as a company vehicle.....

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Si.
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Hi Bob  :wave:


You said you're always on the lookout for suitable 1:24 motors for 'Geneseo'.

I came across this nice small prototype tractor the other day.  :cool:

A couple of builds I saw, look like it is not overly complex, but still a nicely detailed kit.


:moose:


Si.


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Bob R
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Thanks Si. 
I must admit I really like it but, it is to new for my layout. 
My layout is in the late 1920s and the little Fergys were not built before 1946. 
Certainly tempting.



Si.
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Hi Bob  :wave:



Erm ... yes ... darn !  :P

I do like 'history' ... sometimes ... We are all part of it, you know.  ;)



But you are talking with someone who is trying to invent the 'backstory' ...

... on how a 'T-boiler Shay & 1956 Chevy pickup', are in the same scene WORKING ! together !  :shocked:

Even I'm not convinced about THAT ^^ oDd couple !!  :f:



I've been kinda looking for a tractor in 1:35 scale.  L:

My friends Dad owned an old & rusty "Fergy" for his farm which I played about on as a kid.

Probably the same one, or variant, of the one the kit makes.



I gotta say Bob, that your progress compared to my  :slow:  methods, to me is astounding.  :shocked:

Probably if I look back << in the Thread, OK it's taken a while since you moved to get set up again.

But BOY ! ... The new basement looks like a real WINNER !!



I do like your railways enthusiasm for 'concrete tunneling' !  :P

I look forward to following the latest extension to the 'Geneseo empire' !!  :thumb:



:)



Si.


Bob R
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Another little diecast truck conversion completed.  Fleet is beginning to fill the needs.

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Larry G
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Bob, I do like the old style cars and trucks that you, Dave & Woodie are building.

Larry G

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With the expansion of Geneseo Railway I have been considering more common two truck rail cars rather than the small 4 wheel tram style. 
The purchase of the passenger cars proved that they will run great on my tight radius trackage. 
I used 1/35n2 Gilpin Tram trucks with Kadee On30 24" wheels.
 
I ordered two more pair of trucks and wheels to use as a test of two truck cars. 
I want to see how they fit and look. 
Not sure yet if I will want to run both types, stick with the 4 wheel cars or switch to two truck cars. 

I began the build of a tank car today and am anxious to finish it and another for testing.
The tank is basically a toilet paper roll wrapped with card stock. 
I layered the card stock to create the seams. 
Rivets are drops of Elmers glue. 

Pictured with my latest Shapeways person.


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Ken C
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Bob

:moose::moose::moose:

figured I would get a few Moose in before Si. send's a few.

Good looking start for a project.


Larry G
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Your two truck tanker looks great.
Such simple materials yielding a car loaded with narrow gauge character.
Switching to eight wheel cars will reduce the number of cars that will fit on any given side track.

Larry G


Bob R
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Larry G wrote:
Switching to eight wheel cars will reduce the number of cars that will fit on any given side track.


True two of these for three of the 4 wheel cars. 
I think there will still be ample room for enjoyable operations. 
A few test cars will tell.
 
Expect to finish this one today and put in operation.


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Larry G
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Bob, what will you be shipping in the new tank car?

Larry G

W C Greene
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Very nice! And...tanks for the memories...

Woodie

Bob R
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Larry G wrote: Bob, what will you be shipping in the new tank car?


Helium - Helps to keep upright and prevent derailments!

Finished this morning. 
Have made a complete trip around the railway to check it out.


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Last edited on Sun Feb 10th, 2019 12:07 pm by Bob R

Larry G
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AIR? Is polution so bad that clean air must be shipped into town? LOL

Larry G

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" Air! "


Hi Bob  :wave:


I can't argue with you on that one !  ;)


I thought it was probably Baked-Beans in there ... Before you spilled the beans on your gaseous shipment.  :mex:

You know ... Heinz '57' varieties & all that !  :P



Really  C :cool: :cool: L  car !

As Canadian Ken says :- " You can NEVER have enough tank cars "

There's a lot of " Air! " needs shipping !!


:pimp:


Si.



Last edited on Tue Feb 12th, 2019 06:14 pm by Si.

David Laughery
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I'd be happy to send a tank car of fish head glue, if you need it.

Regards, Dave L.



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Thanks, but no thanks. 

I would certainly need a tank car of air after that.




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Built a "bulkhead" flat today.

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Larry G
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I see one of your bulkhead tram cars is all growed up, lookin good.
Larry G

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I have been playing with the two truck cars and have decided to retire the current fleet of 4 wheel cars and replace with the two truck cars. 
They have much more presence and the narrow gauge character that I have always loved.
For the current layout I figure I will need 30 cars.
 
In early June there is an OS Omaha event scheduled which I have agreed to open my layout for. 
Many folks coming from throughout the mid-west to operate on Omaha railroads. 
If I am to make the switch by that time I will need to build about two cars a week. 
May be a little ambitious but I think I will give it a try. 
If I fail the current fleet will still be here.

Today I finished the third car....another tanker. 
I have also finished two more flats which are awaiting trucks from Shapeways.


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David Laughery
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Bob, great cars.

What will be on the roaster?

Tank cars and bulkhead flats and ?

Regards, Dave L.


Bob R
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Flats, bulkhead flats, tanks, boxcars and gondolas. 

Of course then I am going to have to consider adding cabeese. 

More substantial than this one.


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Larry G
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Bob,


Have you tried mixing 4 wheel and 8 wheel cars?

I'm wondering how a mixed string would back around sharp curves.  


I have considered adding a few 8 wheel cars but I don't want to retire my 4 wheel fleet.

I have just the one 8 wheel passenger car and plan to added a few more. 

Not wanting to lose the tramway look, I need to keep larger cars to a minimum.


Larry G


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Bob,

Great tank cars!  :2t:

How about keeping the body of your current cabeese, which I kinda like, and just plopping it down on a 8-wheel flatcar?

I've mixed 4-wheel and 8-wheel cars together without any real problems so far.

The longest car I've got is only a little over 5" long, or about 16' in 1/35 scale.

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Larry...4 wheel and two truck mix and work fine following the rule that the two truck cars run at the head end. 
If mixed in a longer train there are derailments when backing thru switches. 
Mainly my decision is about the look. 
The 4 wheel have that small tram look and the two truck cars a "narrow gauge" look. 

Michael...Good idea. 
Now if I can convince myself to cut up the little cutie.


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Hi Bob  :wave:



WOW ! ... I like No.53 ^^ ... even better than No.57 !!  :P



As for No.101 ...

Whatever you do ... DON'T CHOP your 'Kiso Forrest' clone !  :sad:

" little cutie " ... is RIGHT !!  :cool:





You got me looking at a load of 'Kiso Forrest' pics. after you Posted the ^^ lil' gem a while back.  :old dude:

An old friend of mine was very much a 'Kiso Forrest' FAN ! ... Reminded me of him, some years ago.  L:



I have ended up with a load of BOTH 4-wheeler ... AND 8-wheeler car builds, for my 1:35n2 project.

I have got to say ... I like BOTH ... as I do with yours Bob.  :thumb:



I do sorta feel that as my car collection grows (pretty randomly) I am building for 2 railroads.

As you say ... 1 seems quite 'Tram' like ... & the other seems more 'Narrow Gauge'.


Answer for me might be :-  :brill:

2 railroads ... Both using 'shared trackage'.

A great excuse for mixing motive-power types etc. on 1 line.

The idea is letting me figure out a bit more, what to build next.  ???



All lookin' good down Geneseo way as usual ... Keep up the inspiring work Bob ...

... I'd love to come for a layout tour !  :)



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Bob R
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Three awaiting trucks....

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Traingeekboy
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I just re-skimmed your thread last night, as I want to do with several great layouts on here.

So my question is to you is: Do you have any kind of track laying tutorial and why not?

I have so many questions about using Walthers Goo.  Does the goo hold the rails, or do the spikes do it?

Do you use Balsa ties because they are softer and less likely to split when you spike them?

How long are your ties compared to rail width?  Is it reasonable to simply double the rail width as a tie length for narrow gauge?

I am itching to get hand laying on a new layout, but wanted some pointers first, thanks!


Bob R
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Traingeekboy wrote: I just re-skimmed your thread last night, as I am wont to do with several great layouts on here.

So my question is to you is: Do you have any kind of track laying tutorial and why not? I have so many questions about using Walthers Goo.

Does the goo hold the rails, or do the spikes do it?

Do you use Balsa ties because they are softer and less likely to split when you spike them?

How long are your ties compared to rail width? Is it reaonable to simply double the rail width as a tie length for narrow gauge?

I am itching to get hand laying on a new layout, but wanted some pointers first, thanks!


Sadly, I have a tendency to just do things. 
Instructions always confuse me and get in the way at the workbench. 
My track laying is pretty simple and I am certain would be scoffed at by most. 
My method follows:

Ties are cut from 1/8" balsa sheet. 
Size is just what pleased my eye - 3/16" x 1 3/4". 
I use balsa because it is cheap, easy to cut and easy to scrape with a saw blade to add detail. 
Rail width is HO gauge.

Ties are glued directly to my scenery base of foam with Elmers white glue. 
The ties are spaced 3/4" to 7/8". 
I do not measure, just glue down by eye. 
Ties are not always straight.

After the tie glue is set I paint the ties with Raw Umber acrylic artist paint. 
When dry I dry brush it with white.

I apply Walthers Goo to the bottom of the rail and let dry to touch. 
One rail is then laid on the ties. 
The next rail is laid with a gauge. 
I use an old HO truck as the only track gauge I own is a NMRA Standards Gauge. 
Once the rail is down I run a soldering iron over the rail to heat and set the glue.

Spikes are then added to the viewing side just for appearance.

Rail is painted with Model Masters rust. 
When dry I dry brush with raw sienna artists acrylic.


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Bob R
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Sceniced track...

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Traingeekboy
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Plenty of info there in your response.

It's enough to launch me into doing some hand laying of my own.

Thank you.



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Very frustrated today.
 
Discovered that Shapeways somehow produced 10 pair of On30 Gilpin Tram trucks on my last order instead of 1:35n2. 
Of course they charged me for the 1:35n2 items. 
Of course I did not pay attention to the order until getting the update notification. 
I contacted them and they seem unwilling to credit me for the cost difference which about $50.
21 Feb.    Shapeways service dept contacted me and have determined the error was on there end and are making things right.  I am pleased with the outcome.


Last edited on Thu Feb 21st, 2019 11:58 am by Bob R

Bob R
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Boxcar #92 awaits a proper set of trucks...
Balsa frame with a card stock body.  Rivets are again Elmers glue drops.

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David Laughery
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Bob, do you need to add any weight to your cars?

Just curious.

Regards, Dave L.



Bob R
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Yes.  Not caring about underbody detail, I add lead to the frame between the frame rails. 
I bought a large bag of lead shot from a gun shop years ago. 
I put it on underframe and apply thin CA to it. 
I find my cars track well at 4 ounce.



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Today was an indoor day due to the snowstorm. 
Built up another little boxcar.  Balsa, paper, card stock, and a bit of glue. 
Glad the little one eats so much cereal.  Great source of card stock.
Ready for primer, paint and decals.


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Traingeekboy
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That looks fantastic.

Can't wait to see them in a shot with a loco.



Bob R
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The car in post 612 is now boxcar #96....

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David Laughery
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I really like them.

How do you make the paneled effect?

Regards, Dave L.



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Scribed with an exacto knife.  After painting I go over the cuts again.

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Larry G
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Hey Bob, two questions, how do you make such nice lettering on you new box cars? 
Second question, How do you control the white glue to make "rivets" of a consistent size.
I realize they are not perfect but close enough for government work.

Larry G


Bob R
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Larry G wrote: Hey Bob, two questions, how do you make such nice lettering on you new box cars? 
Second question, How do you control the white glue to make "rivets" of a consistent size.
I realize they are not perfect but close enough for government work.


Rivets - I use a hypodermic syringe and needle. 
I cut the needle off flush, removing the tapered end. 
The key is to touch the droplet of glue to the surface and withdraw so the droplet is pulled from the needle. 
Never touch the surface with the needle as it will make uneven rivets and create a divit rather than a round droplet. 
I use a very small needle. 

Lettering - Sounds complicated but really easy.  I use this method for signage also. 
I use computer to create lettering.  I size with "Paint" program on the computer. 
Then I print with my ink jet printer on a piece of bond paper. 
I cut a piece of tissue wrapping paper like used in a shirt box. 
I position it over the lettering, taping the leading edge with a small bit of Scotch tape.
Feed the paper back into the paper tray and print again. 

For this boxcar I pre-painted the tissue with the paint used on the boxcar before printing.
I let the ink dry, spray a light coat of Dullcoat to protect the ink from running and cut out the decal. 
I apply a tiny bit of thinned Elmers to boxcar surface and apply the decal. 
Lightly press down being careful not to overwork and cause ink to smear. 
The thin paper will conform to most surfaces well. 
In this case, after dry I cut through the decal at board seams. 
Once completed I overspray with Dullcoat.

Almost all signage and lettering on Geneseo Railway is made like this. 
Cheap, easy and you can find and size any image.  Good for period correct signs.
Look at Post 270 on page 27.....  example of this method over brick.


Bob R
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Weather is pretty bad again today.  Built flatcars #67 and #72.  Have a third built but it is getting side and end boards added to create a gondola. 
Trucks were supposed to arrive today....but.

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Last edited on Sat Feb 23rd, 2019 09:10 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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Flatcar #65 has had its gondola box added.  Have completed 10 two truck cars now.  I think 30 by June is possible if I don't burn out.

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Bob, the new cars are looking great.

Your bad weather is sure keeping you at your work bench.

G :2t:

Larry G


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Those all look great.

I would take my time and enjoy it.

It is a hobby after all. ;)



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Great looking cars. What as carbuild speed you have. :bow:

You achieve great results with simple materials. I like that.

Alwin

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Took a few day break from rail car building and finished two more motor cars. 

Diecast 1923 Chevrolet truck and 1921 Studebaker Six pickup. 

Still need to weather them.


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Bob, love the Studebaker.

Is it available on line presently?

Regards, Dave L.


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Yes.  Look on ebay. 

It is a 1922 Studebaker Six by Liberty Classics.


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Thanks for the info.

Regards, Dave L.



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Back to rolling stock. 

This is the 13th on the way to 30.


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Beautiful pickups and nice funky wooden cars...man, I love this stuff!
Simply wonderful.

Woodie



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Very nicely done, Bob.

Regards, Dave L.



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I second that statement Woodie, great lookin wood cars.

Makes me want to build some of my own. 

Larry G



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My goal of building 30 of the two truck cars is looking attainable. 

I have 22 done now and rolling chassis for the rest.  Still need to add decking and details. 

I made a steel boxcar today to add variety to the fleet.


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Larry G
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Bob, what material are you using for the coregatted roofing on that steal box car?


Larry G

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Insulated coffee cup wrap from the coffee shop. 

You will find some are kinda narrow and others wide. 

Work great for roofing and many other things. 

The window blinds and awning on right side of this building are an example. 

Also the trash cans.


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Michael M
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You can make your own from cookie pan aluminum. 

Two sheets for a buck from the discount store. 

Just takes a little time scoring it over some corrugated styrene.


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Thanks guys, I'll look into these options.

Larry G


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Bob R wrote: Back to rolling stock. 

This is the 13th on the way to 30.


Love the couplers, so simple.


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I was just taking a break from work and reread the first 40 pages on this discussion.

I think what you said back on about page 3...


"I am just an average modeler at best. Anyone can achieve this level of modeling.
I have little patience so I like quick / short projects.
That is why I choose such simple methods and materials.
If a model takes more than a few hours over a couple days, I kinda give up on it.
Throw it together fast and cover it with paint quickly."


That is a good philosophy.

I find myself being very much the same.

I need to post that over my work bench,
except the work bench is often the dining table
and I think my lady friend wouldn't appreciate extra signage.


As I went through I kept looking at your track.
I have a pile of beat to hell flex track that needs to be turned into hand laid track.
I also like your technique of just gluing the track down.

Some time when you have a moment,
a tutorial on making track would be greatly appreciated.

I am really curious about those little stub switches you have.


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Me too Geeky. I started reading this in 2016 and now just spent all morning catching up. Fantastic work Bob, just inspiring.

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You guys are too kind....


Post 548 on page 55 has some details on the stub switch. 

Page 43 has some pictures of yard track in progress.


Will have to find time to do a track tutorial. 

Thought I had posted one before but do not recall when or where. 


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Look in the 'Weathering & Detailing Models' Forum, on Page-2

Topic - 'Weathering Hand Laid Track' in Post-5



- - - - - - -



Really quite simple.
I use balsa for ties as it is soft before finishing.
I scrape the full length of a strip of balsa and then cut into tie lengths.
I use an exacto to further distress the ends for splits etc.
I glue them down with white glue.
After the glue has set I paint them with artists acrylic raw umber.
Then dry brushed with white.
Rails are glued in place with Walthers Goo (contact cement).
I add spikes but mostly for appearance only.
Rail sides are painted with Model Master acrylic Rust.
Finally rails are dry brushed with raw sienna.
I find that after paint and ballast glue etc the balsa ties are plenty strong.





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I will go check it out.

Thanks Bob.



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Bob R wrote: You guys are too kind....


Post 548 on page 55 has some details on the stub switch. 

Page 43 has some pictures of yard track in progress.


Will have to find time to do a track tutorial. 

Thought I had posted one before but do not recall when or where. 


Found it. 

Look at Page 61, post 605 and 606.


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Traingeekboy
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I've been poking around looking at old photos.

I found a prototype for your round buffers in this photo.

http://digital.denverlibrary.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15330coll22/id/76946/rec/2994



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Shapeways struck again.... 

I needed some more trucks to add another six cars,
and "accidently" pushed the add to cart on another engine.
 
Have made cylinders added a mechanism and some details. 
Will finish painting, weathering and install radio gear. 
Then paint a number 9 on the sides.


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Michael M
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Woodie did pretty much the same thing by adding buffers on his ore cars.


See 'Switching the mines':

https://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=2262&highlight=ore+tram



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Happy to announce that engine #9 is now in service.

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Another very nice loco, Bob.

You have probably answered this question before.

What mechanism are you using to power your steamers?

Larry G


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Bachmann Thomas the Train Percy.

Bob R
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All 36 cars are complete now. 
Started working on some simple loads as many empty flat cars looked kinda bare. 

Three weeks until OS Omaha. 
Have lotsa small projects to complete to be ready.


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Bob R
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Yard is full....

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Larry G
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Very impressive line up of rolling stock, Bob.

I like the pallets of sacks, where did you find them, or did you cobble them up yourself.

Larry G 


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Pallets are 3D printed. 

Sacks are 1/35 military model sand bags.



Bob R
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Last weekend was the OS Omaha event and I hosted three 3 hour operating sessions. 

Had great group of modelers from throughout the midwest. 

Everything worked well and all seemed to have a good time.


Now that that is behind me.... I started a new building today. 

Do not have a particular location in mind yet but one can never have to many.


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Bob R
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Basic foam board structure will be covered with card stock lap siding. 

Foundation will be stone made from foam.


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I was wondering when we'd get another update.

That building front looks great.

I love the pink foam stone work.


Bob R
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A little more progress. 

Painted the foundation with acrylic raw umber and then dry brushed with white and raw sienna.


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Larry G
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Wow, that stone foundation is very effective, nice paint job too.

Think I'll have to borrow that idea.

Larry G



Bob R
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Started making a handful of stumps today.  Added some modeling clay to lilac stem, sculpted a bit and set aside to dry.  I will paint with acrylic raw umber and dry brush with white before adding to the scenery.
Sometimes taking a break and building a simple model is refreshing.

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Last edited on Tue Jun 18th, 2019 11:42 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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Also decide to add an addition to the building I started.
It seemed a little off balance. 

This also adds a door which a siding can service.
Still have to find a spot on the layout to site the building.


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Larry G
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Bob.

The "barn door" on your new building looks great.

Could you show us a close up pic so we can see how you made it.

I could use a door like that.

Larry G


Bob R
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Very simple door Larry. 

Scribed card stock with balsa wood framing. 
Will put some nail holes in it and weather it a bit. 

Painted the stumps I made this afternoon. 
Have put three on the layout and blended into scenery. 
Cheap, easy and take no time at all. 

My kinda modeling.


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Bob R
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A little more progress on the new building....

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The new building looks like it will need a small track to it,
as it looks like a grain elevator and feed supply kind of place.

Any plans to put a track to it?

Perhaps a double ended spur?


Bob R
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Yes. 

I am expanding the railway into another room,
and this building will be used there. 

I have not decided what it's purpose will be. 
It will have trackage to it for certain.


Bob R
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Still plodding along on the building. 
I will be adding details like steps, piping and a rooftop water tank.
 
Still have not decided what its purpose is. 
May take a break and ponder that one.


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Bob R
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Decided on a purpose....

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Larry G
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Perfect use for your new building.

Judging by all the ventilation outlets, grain handling must be part of the services offered.

Larry G



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Bob

You could set out just about any type of freight car making delivery's to R. Schramm's,

with supplies for the local farmer's and rancher's.



Bob R
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Building is pretty much completed now. 
Until it has a home I can not do much more to it.

Look forward to constructing the benchwork in the other room and starting Hydan and Farr.
This building will find a home somewhere on the other side of the wall.

Received two more engines from Shapeways and six more pair of trucks. 
That will be where I spend the next bit of effort.


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Keith Pashina
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Bob,

That is a wonderful looking building.

Thanks for ongoing postings on the model building!


Keith


Bob R
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Making progress on the next two engines...

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David Laughery
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Nice modeling!

Dave L.



Lee B
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I'm impressed, really!




Traingeekboy
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As always, your layout is amazing and inspiring.

Nice loki's Bob!




Bob R
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Making a bit more progress on the new engines. 

The motor mechanisms are now complete. 
Will need to weather, add engineers and install radio gear. 
Hard part is done. 

Fleet of steam now totals seven.


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Traingeekboy
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Oh oh, now that you have 7 steam engines and a grip of diesels,

it may be time to add a bigger engine facility.




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That's really great modeling. 

Thanks for sharing.




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Beautiful little lokies. Very nice.
Maybe you need several more to keep up with the traffic?

Woodie



David Laughery
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Bob,

I am curious as to what you use to paint your engines.


I've used Grimy Black, Engine Black and Flat Black over the years,

but I really like what you are using.


Thanks, Dave L.


Bob R
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Initial coat of rattle can flat black, Model Masters.
 
I then apply artists acrylic white diluted with water by brush,
and wipe off/dab off with paper towel to achieve mottled grayish color. 
I do a little at a time. 

Then I apply raw and burnt sienna artists acrylic with small brush,
to add rusty highlights and streaks. 

Really quite easy and quick. 

When done I spray with Dullcote.


David Laughery
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Thanks.

The results are great!

Regards, Dave L.


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Can you tell us about that Model T in the background?

Is it a kit or a die-cast?

Thanks.

Regards, Dave L.


Bob R
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Diecast 1925 Model T by Sun Star.

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David Laughery
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They are nice models.

I have a few Sun Stars to put on the Fish Head layout someday.

Thanks for the photo.

Regards, Dave L.


W C Greene
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Yep, that's a fine T. Just a little bit smaller, the Solido (?)
1:32 Model T's are very nice also.
And even better, Diecast Direct sometimes has a "2 for 1" Model T sale...
last time I looked that was $10...$5 each!
Can't have too many Model T's anyway.

Woodie


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I love Ts, too.

I need 1/24 and they are more expensive.


Motor Max, Sun Star make a nice variety of Ts,

but at $30-$50 each, they are too dear for me right now.


Regards, Dave L.


Bob R
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The two new engines are now operating.

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Hey Bob,

Haven't heard much from you in a while.

How are things going?

Bob R
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I have not accomplished much lately. 

Finishing up a kitchen renovation,
took my granddaughter to Washington DC etc. 

Have been operating Geneseo Railway,
but only minor little projects have been completed.  

Hope to get going on projects worthy of posting soon.


Bob R
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I have been desiring a backdrop for a long long time and have been considering hiring someone to put paint on the walls. 
I decided to give it a go myself and spent a little time over the past week painting the walls blue and adding some clouds.
 
Today I picked a spot to start some scenery. 
A road that needed to curve out of sight with pine trees as a backdrop. 
Figured the worst that could happen is I would have to paint over it again.
 
Not to dissatisfied for a first attempt. 
Suspect I will learn as I go.


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David Laughery
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Great job!

Regards, Dave L.



Larry G
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Hi Bob,

Try stippling in some darker green, here and there on your painted pine trees.
Note the dark areas on your model trees.

Other than looking a little flat,
your first attempt at painting a backdrop came out very effective.

Larry G


Bob R
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Thanks Larry...will try that.

Worked on a little more of the backdrop. 
Looks like I will now need a bunch of trees for the foreground.


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Bob R
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continued....

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Larry G
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Wow, You are an background artist for sure.
It's a lot of time consuming tedious work, but well worth the effort. 

For the foreground trees, take a look at artificial Christmas trees.
A very few of them have needles that look very good.
If you cut the branches into various sizes and tapper them, they make nice evergreens.
 
All the evergreens you see on my layout were made from fake Christmas trees.

Larry G


Bob R
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Added some dark green. Does help alot.

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Bob R
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Will look at those trees. 
I made all my "bottle brush" trees and they are ok for the background. 

I think I will build a bunch more foreground trees as this one. 
Balsa trunk and sedum branches. 


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Bob R
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Spent some time today making some quick trees to fill in one area. 
I will need a lot more but, that will have to occur over time.


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Larry G
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Amazing what a few trees do for a scene.

This last scene you posted is showing some real depth.
Will you be fleshing out a large part of your layout in this way?

Larry G


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There are three primary areas that will get this treatment. 
One area will be more rolling hills with deciduous trees. 
The three towns will get backdrops of small town buildings showing depth.


Trees are basic "bottle brush" construction. 
I use 3/8" sisal rope and 18 gauge wire. 
Make a loop of wire, attach loose end in a drill chuck.
 
Place unraveled sisal between wires. 
I have a nail driven into a wood support that I place the loop of wire over,
and run the drill to twist the sisal. 

I cut to shape,
then spray with Scotch 77 spray adhesive,
sprinkle over some fine sawdust and spray again to set. 

I spray paint with Rustoleum Satin Oregano,
and lightly over spray with Hunter Green.

Varying the amount of paint and using different colors,
provides variations in color that make them look natural. 


Next couple of posts show steps.


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Bob R
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Spinning...

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Last edited on Tue Nov 5th, 2019 06:15 pm by Bob R

Bob R
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Trimmed and covered with sawdust...

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Bob R
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Finished and in place...

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Rob V
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Very nice looking trees and buildings.

Great loco making as well.

Rob.


Bob R
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Continuing to work on this scene.
 
Added utility poles along the right of way,
and began adding water to the stream.
 
Initial application of epoxy followed by acrylic gel. 
It will take a few days to dry clear,
then I will add a few more peaks and coat with acrylic gloss medium. 
I will tint the gloss medium. 
Once dry I will add white caps where appropriate. 

Will post pictures as it progresses.


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Larry G
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Looking very dramatic, Bob.

The dense tree cover looks a lot like what I see here in the Black Hills.
Scenery dropping below track level also adds to the drama.

I'm liking this scene a lot.
Keep on keeping on.

Larry G


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Love the scene, too. Nice work. Regards, Dave L.

Bob R
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Applied thick the acrylic gel takes a while to cure and become clear. 

This area is about there.


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Bob R
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Another amazing discovery...

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Michael M
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I knew it all the time.

See:  https://theflatearthsociety.org/home/



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Bob,

Your modeling and sense of humor are impeccable.

[toast]



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Bob,

Not a word here in a long time.

If you can drop us a line and let us know you are doing well,
it'd be good to hear from you.


Bob R
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Doing fine.  Have greatly expanded the layout.  Lots of pictures in Flickr.
Left this sub-forum in protest.  I did not like being moved from Narrow Gauge to Large Scale.


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Bob,

Could you provide a link to your Flickr photos?

Sorry to see such an excellent modeler as yourself leave Large Scale.

Bob R
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As follows...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/187093122@N07/


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Bob,
Thanks for sharing.
 
Although I avoid people on my layout like the plague,
I am especially impressed by the realism of yours.

One of the most difficult tasks in modeling,
to fabricate realistic people + animals.


Traingeekboy
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It's why I always shied away from large scale,
the people just looked odd.

In HO and smaller scales they are just people forms,
more than specific details.

Bob paints his really well.
They do not seem odd to me.


Larry G
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It all depends on what company you get your figures from.

Some companies do produce plastic blobs,
and some offer well proportioned, very detailed figures.

If trying to fashion your own figures from scratch,
it's extremely difficult to come up with a good looking figure.

Some people can do it, most of us can't.

I must have figures on my layout, I think they bring the layout to life.

Larry Gant


Bob R
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Agree...  My people making skills are quite pathetic. 

I have found many nice figures on Shapeways 3D site. 

On my whimsical Strawberry Mountain layout I did carve all my figures.
 
Proof of my lack of talent.


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Larry G
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Bob, that figure fits a whimsical layout perfectly.

One thing we modelers need to look out for, when buying commercial products, is this:
Not all items labeled for a particular scale are actually made to that scale.

People, of course, come in all sizes.

I use the under scale ones, farther back, to force the perspective a little.
I also make the structures a tiny bit smaller, near the rear of the layout.

Larry Gant


Bob R
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I have not had any problem with figures from Shapeways. 
All that I have ordered in 1/24th scale have been correctly sized. 

I particularly like the Merchant Marine sets of five. 
The clothing and postures have been perfect for my 1929 era layout.


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Larry G
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I'll have to take a look at Shapeways figures.
I need workers for my mine scenes.

In the past, I have bought some very good figures from Jimmy Flintstone.
Now, their prices have gotten so high that I refuse buy any more of their products. 

I have also ordered figures labeled 1/24 and received figures closer to 3/8th scale.
The same has been true of detail parts. 

Finding figures for my late 50s time period has been tough.
Either they are too early, or too modern.

Few are dressed as workers,
and none, I have found, are dressed as miners.

I may need to move my time period up to present day,
just to find enough decent figures to populate my layout. 

Back dating the layout won't work,
since an upscale, clothing optional resort, in the late 50s,
is already pushing things a bit. 

Larry G



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