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George W
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Anyone know a way to remove the line name from an engine ?

I think sanding would be too destructive to the plastic.

Any ideas?





W C Greene
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George, it depends on what was used to make the lettering. Many times, you can use Iso Alcohol and a Q Tip to rub it off. Maybe you can find Floquil's ELO which is roughly the same thing. Also, brake fluid applied with Q Tip may work. These methods can take off the paint underneath the lettering, if that happens, I would just immerse the whole plastic superstructure in brake fluid and let the paint disolve away. Then rattle can the model with nice new paint.
OR-as many small RR's did...paint the lettering black and apply new lettering over the old. This method is something I might do since I like hand me down equipment on funky railways.

Have fun & run that train!
Woodie

George W
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I tried Alcohol (works on Hot Wheels cars) but it did seem to be doing anything. I'm going to try Goof-Off next as I have some laying around.

Thanks for the ideas, might need them if Goof- Off doesn't work

Si.
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Good question guys.

I wanna get the letters off an On30 Porter & Shay...

...anyone know what dissolves Bachmann lettering, but NOT paint ?

Cheers.

Si.

George W
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Si. wrote:
Good question guys.

I wanna get the letters off an On30 Porter & Shay...

...anyone know what dissolves Bachmann lettering, but NOT paint ?

Cheers.

Si.


I can tell you, don't use goof-off. It didn't do anything to the lettering but it ate the paint on the Loco. Not that I cared much as I planed a repaint of sorts

jtrain
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You might try a watered down lacquer. If you can apply it and wipe it off quick enough, it might not soften the paint underneath too much. Keep in mind I have not tried that before and it's only a guess.

You could also try a razor blade if the lettering is a decal. Simply scrape away at the lettering and be careful not to scratch the paint too much. That I have tried before, but I don't know if it'll work with paint.

--James:java:

Lee B
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There simply is no chemical you can use that'll eat the lettering away but leave the paint.
I've used the finest sandpaper I can find. Yeah, it leaves a buff look, but a tiny bit of weathering hides it pretty well.

George W
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Lee B wrote:
There simply is no chemical you can use that'll eat the lettering away but leave the paint.
I've used the finest sandpaper I can find. Yeah, it leaves a buff look, but a tiny bit of weathering hides it pretty well.


Yes, that's pretty much what I ended up doing

Shoulders
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Hay guys

A fibre glass brush can also be used, when using on plastic always go in one direction and metal is doesn't mater but this is where is works better. Down side is it does take the paint work off, but does clean it up nicely and forms a key surface for paint.

P.S. watch out for those fibres needles, always have a hoover and brush ready don't blow them away. as months after using it your still be finding the things in your fingers.

Cheers Dan

Bob D
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I've used a Mister Clean Magic Eraser, but it still takes the sheen off the paint underneath the lettering.

Like Lee said, I don't think there's any way to remove one and not the other.

91% Isopropyl Alcohol takes paint off really well. I've also used brake fluid.

I had a MTH 2-8-0 that the 91% took it off in sheets but it wouldn't hardly touch the paint on a Weaver RS3, had to use the brake fluid to break the surface. I finally removed 99% of the paint alternating between the 2.

If you use the 91%, leave it in the bath for a day or 2. I made a "bathtub" using a length of 4" PVC pipe, large enough to hold an O scale body. Fill it full of 91% alcohol and after 2 days (maybe less) use an old toothbrush to remove the paint.

Bob D.

Salada
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Any ideas please on how to remove  white printed  fake RR names from black bodied Bachmann On30 locos (such as Pocahontas etc.) ?

An old post on FR suggested auto brake fluid, but what type ?  A poly-glycol such as DOT 3, 4 or 5 -- or a silicone based fluid (DOT 5) or petroleum based brake fluid ??

Does anything else work, other than brake fluid ?


Thanks & Regards,            Michael

slateworks
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99.9% IPA, a cotton bud and some elbow-grease. Localising the effort helps preserve the surrounding paintwork too.


Doug

Lee B
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I have never had luck with any solvents removing lettering from stuff like this and not touching the paint (and trust me, I've used just about everything there is). Frankly, after all these years, I now firmly believe it just isn't possible to TOTALLY remove it without a trace.
I use the finest wet-dry sandpaper I can find and lightly sanding until it's gone, then dry-brushing like color in the same area. It's what some body shops used to do on painting of auto damage repairs a very long time ago.

Salada
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My thanks to Doug & Lee. Doesn't sound as easy as I had hoped.

Regards,          Michael

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I use a fibre tipped eraser, gently...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fibre-Pen-Pencil-Fibreglass-Pen-Abrasive-Cleaning-10-Refills-/251948349158?hash=item3aa94ab6e6

jtrain
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Michael,

Pressure sprayer....

Just kidding:bg:  I'd probably say, do the best you can and paint over it.  I think I remember a similar topic a few months back and the general consensus was that there would be no known way to remove lettering without affecting the paint.

Good luck though!  If you find something that works, please tell us.  I've got a few models of my own I'd like to re-letter.

--James:thumb:

Herb Kephart
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I think that if the letters had and physical height. I would sand the area flat, and respray.

Sounds easier in the long run to me.

Herbert (one of the ones that have a lot of experience spraying---British joke)

hminky
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Used Test/Floquil's Easy Lift Off (ELO) paint remover on the On30 freight cars with success:

Removing Freight Car Lettering





Harold

Herb Kephart
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Nice, if you bought some when Floquil was still in business.

Any hint what is in it by sniffing it?

Herb

hminky
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Herb Kephart wrote: Nice, if you bought some when Floquil was still in business.

Any hint what is in it by sniffing it?

Herb
Still available, the google is your friend:

At Amazon even

Model Train Stuff

Harold

Last edited on Mon Sep 7th, 2015 04:11 pm by hminky

Salada
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Your Testors/Floquil ELO demo photos look impressive, thanks Harold.

ELO is still available in the U.S. but only "ships to lower 48". I have drawn a complete blank on it in the UK and also what it is based on. Unfortunately none of the advert photos show the ingredients. Apparently (claimed) safe on plastics so that rules out most common paint strippers.

Could any ELO sniffers please say what it smells of ? 

Herb: be careful what you (s)pray for !

My thanks also to James & T.Trev - I've got one of those glass fibre cleaning pens but I don't want to damage the black that lies underneath the white lettering.

If I find anything that works I'll be back here.

Regards,         Michael

Warren G
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On lettering that is Pad Printed Ink, [not decals], as used on some Bachmann loco's and rolling stock, I use Go-Jo hand cleaner, with an old totth brush.. I cut most of the bristle off to make the brush stiffer, and it takes me about five minutes including 'soak' time .. where the Go-Jo is used the pad printing will be removed, however it also removes some of the matte finish,leaving it slightly shinier .. so after decal installation I use dull coat or krylon matte spray ..
Warren

Helmut F
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Hey guys, are there any techniques for removing the stock paint and/or decals on models?  Without having to repaint the panel or entire model?

Specifically, for now, I am looking at the Bachmann On30 stuff, but recommendations for any/all manufacturers appreciated.

Thx.

Nice Guy Eddie
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This Thread on the same page already has good advice on that


I tacked your question on the end of it


:f:


Eddie

Lee B
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I guess I need to try some ELO, no hobby shop I've seen ever had any...

Eric T
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I bought my ELO on Ebay.  (Leaked a little in transit but plenty of fluid remained)

I used it successfully on a Bachmann On30 freight car by letting it soak for a while then rubbing the lettering off with a Q-tip.  No damage or discoloration to the plastic at all!

I have a new locomotive coming in today that has a roadname I want to remove; if it doesn't need to be RMA'd I'll see if the ELO works on the treated metal as well as it did on plastic and post pictures if I'm able.

W C Greene
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***This is my experience, it may not be the same as anyone else's*****
I have used DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID applied with a Q Tip and "worked" gently to remove the lettering/numbers.You do not want to smear some on and go get a cuppa and jack around with the dog or neighbor but stay with it and gently rub the offensive things off. Now when they are gone, some of the base "black" may be gone also but are you gonna let that stop you? Then wash everything with liquid dish soap (DAWN, etc) and you are set to go. A friend uses denatured alcohol and while it works fast, it may takw more of the paint with it. Slower is maybe better?

Woodie

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I have not found any one product that works on all Bachmann. Locos.  Each seems to have it's own needs. 


Eric T
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Turns out that ELO works good on Bachmann's white lettering over blackened metal too.

(The image files turned out a bit larger than I expected so I've linked to them instead.)

I dipped a Q-tip in the stuff then dabbed it over the lettering I wanted to remove and let it soak for a few minutes.  A bit flowed onto the pinstriping but it evaporated harmlessly, it's the scrubbing action that removes the lettering.  Keep in mind that the stuff does evaporate and you will need to refresh the Q-tip a few times.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/FIRE-FLARE/IMG_20170313_2000354831_zpsy63nbc6g.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/FIRE-FLARE/IMG_20170313_2010599461_zpsbyceo1uo.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/FIRE-FLARE/IMG_20170313_2015523801_zps97yq0dph.jpg


On Backmann's lettering it seems that ELO acts as a 'thinner', I rolled the dry side of the Q-tip over the accumulation to absorb it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/FIRE-FLARE/IMG_20170313_2022350681_zpsazkvd49l.jpg


And aside from the number on the back, the bunker looks exactly like the unlettered replacement part I could have ordered with no adverse effects on the factory's black paint.  :bg:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/FIRE-FLARE/IMG_20170313_2030173641_zps8nspnbcs.jpg

Last edited on Tue Mar 14th, 2017 10:28 am by Eric T

Helmut F
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Eddie,
Thx. - and doh! I apologize - I *usually* do a search first. I had a brain fart or something. Let's go with the something.

Woodie, I am pretty sure I have some brake fluid I can also try.

Thx guys, I also ordered some Testor's Easy Lift Off.

Last edited on Wed Mar 15th, 2017 12:00 am by Helmut F

Nice Guy Eddie
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Not a problem

I have a weird brain most days


They don't pay me to do that kinda thing normally

In fact

They just don't pay me !


:f:


Eddie


Jerry Kemp
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Given what I have to share, it made more sense to reply to a relevant (but old) thread than to start a new one. 

Did not specifically have Go-Jo, but a similar item called Fast Orange hand cleaner, (with Orange oil).
I can report that Fast Orange does absolutely nothing.

I have been going thru the archive,
and there are at least a couple of threads regarding removing lettering from Bachmann On30 locomotives.

From what I have been able to determine, aside from this positive comment regarding Go-Jo,
the other positive comment was to use Tester's ELO.

Given that all these threads are (3) years old plus, any updates,
or anything I might have overlooked is appreciated.

Jerry


Si.
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Hi Jerry :wave:



You're right ...

... there are one or two Threads about, on the same Topic.


It might be an idea to 'Merge' them all together ...

... which is sometimes useful.


This one was moved from the 'On30' to the 'Weathering' Forum a while back ...

... made more sense to have it here.


If any other Threads on 'Removing Line Names' can be found ...

... we could 'Merge' all of them.


The Posts just appear in date order, after the 'Merge'.

Might be helpful ?



:)



Si.

W C Greene
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Well, I'll give my "experiences" with removing Bachmann ,or any other lettering.
It is relatively easy, but afterward you still need to either spot paint or totally repaint (better plan) the model.
I use denatured alcohol, not the drug store kind for cuts, etc. but the home store type.
It seems to be a bit "healthier".
The alco. can be applied with a Q-Tip or small paint brush.
Let it sit a few minutes and then begin "scrubbibg" the lettering off.
Of course it will leave an area where this was done but the new decals / dry transfers will possibly cover the area OK.
Still, the best ways around this is to buy only unlettered models,
or invest in some brake fluid and take the paint off totally.
I have used Floquil's ELO before and it seemed to not work sometimes.
But, with all that, it's whatever floats yer boat...

Woodie


Eric T
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I've found a way to confine ELO and possibly other solvents to a specific area.

In my case I wanted to remove markings on a curved surface without the fluid flowing away,
but the trick is also useful if you want to remove a specific marking without disturbing others nearby.


What you do is cut a piece of toilet paper so it's just large enough to cover the lettering you wish to remove,
place it on the model, then let the fluid soak into it. 
I repeatedly used a Q-Tip to transfer the fluid,
and pressed it into the TP until I could clearly see all the letters underneath.

After letting the markings soak for a few minutes,
I removed the toilet paper and the lettering came off with very little pressure. 


Adjacent letters / numbers aren't affected because the toilet paper didn't touch them,
and neither did the soaked Q-Tips. 


;)



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