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Brass Locomotives - Best Way Of Painting Them ?
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 Posted: Fri Feb 28th, 2014 02:21 am
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smokebox
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HIYA Everyone


I may have been out of the loop for awhile, but just out of the loop here ...

So ... I have been collecting some brass traction models & they are turning green.


My first question is do I HAVE to 'Brasso' them before painting ?

And second, what is the name-brand or norm for brass etching primer ?


Thanks

Rob Wright

Smokebox


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 Posted: Fri Apr 11th, 2014 10:31 pm
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jtrain
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I don't collect brass models, but from the various brass fitting and such that I have had to deal with:
I would clean off any oxidation because then the paint will adhere to the metal better.


It's the same thing with gluing, welding and soldering metal:
always clean the material before working on it.


It you don't, you may find some areas to be pitted,
or the paint might come off in some places where the oxidation prevented proper curing of the paint.


James  :java:


:dt:  And don't forget the duct tape !  :dt:




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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2014 02:15 pm
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W C Greene
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Well, I have been waiting to see if anybody offers suggestions. Seems that when I do, I get "second guessed" but here's my experience. The Brasso would probably work OK, never used it though. Of course the model would be completely disassembled...I put on the latex (or whatever) gloves and go over the brass loco with an old toothbrush and some COMET cleaner. Get the thing wet first, sprinkle on some COMET and then brush it all over. You gotta work at it and be careful of lousy solder joints causing parts to fall off. When done, wash with clean tap water and set aside to dry, may take a few days, or you can fire up the airbrush and blow the excess water off or maybe a hair dryer would work. For "etching", try some distilled vinegar and then washing off. DO NOT TOUCH the model with bare hands after all this.

Good luck, Mr. Phelps...this tape will self destruct in 5 seconds...

Woodie



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 Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2014 11:06 pm
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Paglesham
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Brass needs a self-etch primer.

It ain't dear over here so should really be cheap in America where everything seems so inexpensive to us ripped off Brits.
I just bought another Litre with activator thinners and it cost around 23 quid.

As long as you mix the activator at 50:50 you can then thin the mix with cellulose thinners (you call it lacquer ?).

I just use it 50/50 as I use a larger compressor with a spotting gun at 40 psi.
BUT ... I have also used one of my 'Paasche' Model-H airbrushes at 15psi with the little desktop oil-less compressor.

Aluminium also needs self-etch and I always paint resin models with it too.
I don't bother with any of that scrubbing with vinegar or 'Vim', all that.

Just spray it with self-etch.
Works every time.

I use it on every model I make, I do it for a living and I've had my last litre for over a year !


Cheers

Martin




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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2014 09:43 pm
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Tim H
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Even before thinking about degreasing any metal model, I clean with a mild abrasive.

In Europe we can buy Shiny Sinks or Bar Keepers Friend,
both are a mild liquid that will remove flux and finger marks after a good scrub with a damn good rinse in clean water.

It provides a 'key' for the self etch primer mentioned by Martin in the previous post,
but the model must be perfectly dry and dust free before painting.


Tim H




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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 11:15 pm
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Helmut F
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Hopefully everyone does not mind bringing this back from the dead, it seems related to my questions.

Mostly I wonder what I would get myself into if I bought an unpainted brass model?
It seems to me there are far too many parts on a brass loco for it to be painted as is.
Are those parts easily removed?
Is it better that some parts stay on?
I know when I used to build model kits, all the parts possible would be painted separately and then applied to the model.

Aside from that, I am finding some brass models relatively cheap but am afraid of what I might get myself into with those.
They seem older, so maybe open frame motors that should probably be replaced.
Is that easy enough in most cases?
Or does it just depend?

Any other advise on finishing a brass model?




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