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Water Stop at Westcott
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 Posted: Wed May 1st, 2013 03:17 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Brad

I would think, based on my experience with the aluminum, that all you need to do is to mechanically fasten the sheet to the outer edge of the end walls, and perhaps cover the fasteners with a small, inconspicuous strip of molding--or just blend the flat head screws into the aluminum surface with bondo, or the like. No need to fasten it across the back, the tension created by the coves will hold it very snug against the surface.

Herb



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 Posted: Thu May 2nd, 2013 11:24 pm
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BMWorks
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BMWorks wrote:
Built the tracklaying test section. Drop a coat of paint on it, stain and glue ties down and I can start swinging the spike hammer.
I have three cross sections to test. Ties on foam, ties on Masonite, and ties on a cork / Masonite sandwich.
When I get to ballast, I will divide each length in two and this will give me six segments to try different technics.




Going to try Joey's idea with drywall in half the foam lane.
Like they say, "You never know if you don't try". So try we must!



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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2013 11:48 pm
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BMWorks
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Back at it again.
Added a lane of drywall to test out the base Joey is using.
From left to right, we have drywall, MDF, and cork roadbed over MDF. Painted with earth coloured latex and ready to lay ties.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 12:04 am
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BMWorks
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Bought a few Fast Tracks tie jigs, mounted to some scrap board. A little sanding, Varathane spray coating and we have a lifetime tie jig station.

Dropped some Hunterline ties into a few of their weathering stains. Let the whole batch dry overnight and then into the jig.

Picked up the grouping with some masking tape.
Then transferred over to the test bed.


Once the glue dries overnight I will hit the tie tops with a flat sanding block to true up the rail surface.
Tomorrow a little file card distressing and on to final weathering with Pan Pastels.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 12:19 am
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BMWorks
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Also tonight I snapped a few pictures back inside the display. Have the stream roughed in and the bridge mock-up in place. The backdrop aluminum sheet is glued in place and coped to the side board profile.




If time frees up this weekend I may get into setting foamboard in place and begin some rough contouring.

Found a old photo image that may work for the backdrop. Need to get some advice on the stretching and blending to create a 8ft x 18in photo, but there's time for this later.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 03:32 am
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Kitbash0n30
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This is going to make a neat little scene.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 04:58 am
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Dave D
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Nice photo Brad.

Give Power Grab a try sometime for gluing down ties.

You can re-position ties for a minute or two and then after about 20 minutes you can start spiking....great stuff.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2013 04:33 pm
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BMWorks
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Dave,
Thanks for the tip. I will stop by the BLUE store after work and pick-up a tube.
Any specific formula?, as I see on the web they make a few different brew's.

This is pump out of a gun and spread with a blade of some sort?
Or, a toothed / notched thing to leave ridges like when doing floor tiles?



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 Posted: Fri Jun 14th, 2013 12:08 pm
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Dave D
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I've just used the general purpose stuff.

It's the tube type you use a calking gun with.

You don't need a lot to hold down the ties.

Just run a bead down the center and press that down by sliding your finger along the bead to spread it out.

It's white and stays that way but it will be under the ballast so no worries.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 14th, 2013 02:05 pm
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mwiz64
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Wow... Very cool. The only it could be any more impressive is if you'd carved the whole thing from a single block of wood.



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