Freerails Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register
Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > On30 > Water Stop at Westcott

Freerails IS ACCEPTING new Members ... To join Freerails ... See how to Register as a Member in the 'Joining Freerails' Forum

Water Stop at Westcott
 Moderated by: . Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
 Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Mon Apr 8th, 2013 02:30 am
  PMQuoteReply
11th Post
BMWorks
Registered


Joined: Sat Jun 20th, 2009
Location: LaSalle, Ontario Canada
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline
Dallas,
I know what your getting at. I have been struggling with this also.
The plan is to have a few town buildings to the right of the depot, and a stream and the water tank and column off to the left. How this all spaces out is hurting the gray matter.
Thanks for the comments. That's what makes this site great, is the many eyes helping out spotting things hidden in plain sight,L:

Last edited on Mon Apr 8th, 2013 02:32 am by BMWorks



____________________
Brad

Essex Northern RR
"Emperor of the North"

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4995&forum_id=4
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Apr 11th, 2013 11:17 pm
  PMQuoteReply
12th Post
BMWorks
Registered


Joined: Sat Jun 20th, 2009
Location: LaSalle, Ontario Canada
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline
Getting ready to lay the right of way, and the choices are endless. I plan on hand laying all track on this diorama as this is my test bed for skills leading up to the home layout.
So hear we go.
What to use as a base, spline, blue foam, homasote or a combination?
What to put down the ties with on the best base?
I will be hand spiking and machine (Kadee) spiking the track, so this plays into the decision as some posts I have read, warn of ties compressing into the foam.
The ties being used are Mt? Albert 5" x 7" x 6' white pine. Rail will be code 100 as I found a great deal on a tube full at a swap meet.
This Saturday, the 13th, we are off to Schromberg, Ontario for the 8th annual "Ontario Narrow Gauge Show". I will be picking up the track gauges, some ballast, gound cover materials and anything else that happens to fall into my bag.

:thumb:



____________________
Brad

Essex Northern RR
"Emperor of the North"

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4995&forum_id=4
Back To Top

 Posted: Fri Apr 12th, 2013 04:45 am
  PMQuoteReply
13th Post
Paladin
Registered


Joined: Tue Jan 24th, 2006
Location: Berwick, Australia
Posts: 2403
Status: 
Offline
In regard to using foam for a base, just let me say.

My layout is in a 20 x 20 foot space. About 200 feet of track overall. All on a base of foam.

Would I go up this path again the answer is NO. It is easy to work but care is vital.

The foam can be compresed just by leaning a arm or such like to the layout  If you are working a large area this becomes an issue

I am sure others will give foam the nod. each to his own

Don



____________________
Don McL
Back To Top

 Posted: Sun Apr 14th, 2013 03:51 pm
  PMQuoteReply
14th Post
BMWorks
Registered


Joined: Sat Jun 20th, 2009
Location: LaSalle, Ontario Canada
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline
Don,
Thanks for your opinion.
I have come to the same conclusion. A the show this weekend I talked to each builder about the pros and cons. Overall the pros were for ties on a solid substrate while hand laying. Some people like the simple plane foam approch, but had warnings about being "careful" and "gentle" and it would work out. The convincing construction method was by a group with a long traveling module system. They had a aluminum frame with foam and plywood composite sandwich construction. The trackwork was all hand laid and was fantastic. They used custom sized ties and Kadee spiked code 83 rail. I will post pictures and more information when I organize myself from this weekends trip.
So today I have begun ripping Masonite for a spline type construction. I will lay the foam and other elements up to this for the landform shaping.
Will take pictures of where I end up tonight and post.

Last edited on Mon Apr 15th, 2013 11:04 pm by BMWorks



____________________
Brad

Essex Northern RR
"Emperor of the North"

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4995&forum_id=4
Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Apr 16th, 2013 01:33 am
  PMQuoteReply
15th Post
BMWorks
Registered


Joined: Sat Jun 20th, 2009
Location: LaSalle, Ontario Canada
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline
Laying spline!:glad:
Cut 1/4 in. X 1 1/2in. Masonite strips a little longer than the cord of the radius, then sanded down the ends to fit up to the centre line of the right of way. Set the first spine of centre to the line in a bed of carpenters glue and let it set up.
Once the first spline had set, I moved on to the next three on the back side. These are photos up to this point.
I will let this harden and then glue in the front four splines.

[/URL]

[/URL]

Someone years ago said "you can never have enough clamps", I am starting to see the wisdom.



____________________
Brad

Essex Northern RR
"Emperor of the North"

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4995&forum_id=4
Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Apr 16th, 2013 02:20 am
  PMQuoteReply
16th Post
on2rails
Registered


Joined: Mon May 14th, 2012
Location: West Virginia USA
Posts: 309
Status: 
Offline
Wow that thing is looking good Brad! And I know what you mean about the clamps, I never have enough or the ones I have are too short.



____________________
Joey Ricard - West Virginia, USA

My Model Railroad Blog
https://www.facebook.com/sprucemodel

My YouTube Channel
http://www.youtube.com/user/imjoeyricard

Trackside Scenery - Backdrops & More
http://www.tracksidescenery.com

Joey Ricard Photograp
Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Apr 16th, 2013 02:37 pm
  PMQuoteReply
17th Post
Herb Kephart
Moderator


Joined: Thu Jul 19th, 2007
Location: Glen Mills, Pennsylvania USA
Posts: 5980
Status: 
Offline
I have LOTS of clamps--they just run and hide when they know that I need them.


Herb



____________________
Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
Back To Top

 Posted: Wed Apr 17th, 2013 11:13 pm
  PMQuoteReply
18th Post
BMWorks
Registered


Joined: Sat Jun 20th, 2009
Location: LaSalle, Ontario Canada
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline
Herb,
I know what you mean. I set things down and they grow legs and walk away.
Last night I got the spine in place, glued, smoothed, and ready for track base.
Do I glue ties to the spine?
Or
Do I glue cork roadbed to the spine??
I will be placing rail down with a Kadee Spiker, and hand spiking. Kadee into tie and cork I know works. Spiker into tie and into Masonite, I have no experience with.
Another experiment for the one foot square foam test bed.
Opinions?
Anyone have used this type of stack-up?

Some work pictures from last night.


Last edited on Wed Apr 17th, 2013 11:29 pm by BMWorks



____________________
Brad

Essex Northern RR
"Emperor of the North"

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4995&forum_id=4
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Apr 18th, 2013 12:40 am
  PMQuoteReply
19th Post
jtrain
Registered


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Missoula, Montana USA
Posts: 1000
Status: 
Offline
To throw in my two cents BM, I've never seen a display like this, but using wood as a base like this is genius. Whoever thought of that was thinking.

I would personally throw down the cork first, if this was to be an operating display. The cork not only deadens some of the sound, but ballast would hold better to a grade when rough cork is used as the roadbed.

But since this at least appears to be a static display, spiking the ties straight to the wood road base would provide a more steady hold.

In reality, I don't see why you couldn't do either. Both would work the way I see it, it comes down to personal preference.

--James:java:



____________________
James W.

New Blog (permanent this time)

blackhillsrr.blogspot.com
Back To Top

 Posted: Sun Apr 21st, 2013 03:33 pm
  PMQuoteReply
20th Post
BMWorks
Registered


Joined: Sat Jun 20th, 2009
Location: LaSalle, Ontario Canada
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline
Had a few hours on Saturday to work on the display. Pulled it into the house and up on the shelving units. Need a pass with a circular saw blade width on each side of the lower side overhang to create clearance and it will drop into place. Scribe the back overhang to the wall and all the major woodwork to locate it in location will be done.
Started the contouring of the land forms and when I get it out int the workshop again I will add the last piece of birch, the lower front curved valance. Shopped at "orange" yesterday and picked up a 18in. x 120in. roll of aluminum soffit material. Going to trim this down and see what I can do with it to get the curved corner ( tight rad.) I am looking for.



____________________
Brad

Essex Northern RR
"Emperor of the North"

http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=4995&forum_id=4
Back To Top


 Current time is 01:38 am
Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  Next Page Last Page  

Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > On30 > Water Stop at Westcott
Top



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2016 Data 1 Systems