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Thinking of dabbling in 1/35 need advise re car sizes
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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2012 03:55 pm
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tebee
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Now I dip my finger into more scales that is good for me, and having a friend who models UK industrial NG in 1/35 and seeing Woody's Mogollon Railway on here has tempted me to try a little.

Now I've knocked together a simple flatcar mostly from balsa and other wood I had lying around but am not entirly happy with the proportions.

I tried to make it similar in size to what I remembered the Gilpin hoppers being so I built it 5ft wide and 19ft long but to me this looks a little skinny.I also used scale 4 inch wide timber for the deck which I now think looks to narrow.

I'm think of doing a 4 wheeled box car next and I'm wondering what size to make it. The chassis I'm think of using scales yp as 11ft 6 with wheelbase 5ft 6 . I'm wondering what size I should make the body?

Tom



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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2012 05:28 pm
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W C Greene
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Tom-a 5 foot wide ore car is right for the Gilpin/SC cars, in fact the early "phase 1" cars were only 4 feet wide. Remember that this is 2 foot gauge, the "loading gauge" is less than for 30" or 36". Having written that, I say that whatever width you want is fine...as long as the cars don't tip over on curves. I trust that you have a 1:35 scale ruler, CTT makes them, available from SQUADRON online (along with many neat 1:35 kits & details). Have fun and send some photos.

Woodie



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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2012 09:17 pm
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tebee
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Ok here is the first few pics of it - excuse my very untidy work-bench in some of them.

It's made the the same way I made by first On30 cars about 25 years ago - a piece of 1/4 inch balsa forms the main frame with a large hole cut in the middle to take a 3.5 inch x 1 in x 1/8 inch strip of mild steel bar to give it some weight. Individually cut strip wood planks (on an NWSL chopper) are stuck to the top with more stripwood providing the bolsters. Once I've decided what length it will final be I'll stick another piece of stipwood across the ends to make an endbeam.



The steps at the end ( senile dementia is currently stopping me recalling the right name for these) are currently represented by staples stuck in the wood - I'll replace these with something better once I've decided how to make them - together with queen posts, truss-rods stake pockets and a brake staff.





This is the underside view showing the weight.




I'm think of making the box car a little wider maybe 5ft 6 or 6 ft , maybe with a 7ft high side.

Incidentally I tend not to use a scale ruler - instead I have a spread-sheet with real lengths in feet converted to scale lengths in millimetres - then I use a normal rule to measure the millimetres.

Tom



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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2012 10:19 pm
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chasv
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the up narrow gauge stock car i took a picture of at law's near bishop ca was about 7' high i think it is about 6' wide and about 35' long



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 Posted: Sat May 26th, 2012 01:59 pm
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mabloodhound
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"The steps at the end ( senile dementia is currently stopping me recalling the right name for these) are currently represented by staples stuck in the wood "

Stirrups or drop irons.

Nice job, although I might have made the frame up from individual stringers, 4 across.   But your final effort is fine unless someone is laying on the track looking up :bg::bg::bg:

I'm still happy with my On30 stuff for now though.



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 Posted: Sat May 26th, 2012 02:52 pm
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W C Greene
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Working without a scale ruler eh? Then do you have a 1:35 human figure to compare. If the car doesn't look right with the figure standing by, then something is wrong. And for underbody details, as low as the cars are, it doesn't matter unless you are a detail freak or want to enter in a model contest. I will assure you that in operation, underbody details can sometimes become a headache and even on a trestle, the work is not seen anyway. But that's my opinion so....

Woodie



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 Posted: Sun May 27th, 2012 08:02 pm
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tebee
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Th fact that I work without a scale ruler doesn't mean I don't work to scale. Its just I convert real feet and inches to model mm to work in. I use this spreadsheet http://tbmod.com/download/35scale.pdf I can get the scale size of something fairly quickly by just adding 2 or 3 figures at most.

I too, do not worry too much underbody details. On the previous cars tie-rods were represented by 16th in brazing rod, these were soldered to a brass strip on the supports representing the queen posts.

I did try one chassis with 4 separate beams rather than a block of wood but did not think the extra time and cost of making it - stipwood section is a lot more expensive than sheet balsa - justified repeating it.

Here is is still unfinished 20 odd years after I started making it



I made my cars inspired by an article by Lawrence Patch many years ago although I made mine in 5.5 mm scale as I thought it looked better with the undersized ho trucks I used

http://tbmod.com/rm/ysl%20rmc%20may78.pdf

When the Bachman On30 stuff came out I changed the layout's scale to 1/4 inch, the flats and gons worked fine at the larger scale but the part completed box cars I had looked just too small. I built these slightly differently than the article above in that I used a box of 30 thou plastic card with some stipwood strengtheners at the corners. Over this I was going to overlay scribed plastic card. This is one of the never completed boxcars( no I never do throw anything away).




Tom



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 Posted: Thu Aug 29th, 2013 05:40 am
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Si.
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Hi Tom

Are the Kadee's you're using on the flat-car, the On3/30 ones ?

Cheers

Si.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 29th, 2013 06:16 am
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tebee
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They where normal number 5's though these days I would probably use 148's instead - there are the whisker coupler equivalent.

I do mount them a little higher ( about 2mm) that the standard HO hight. I use rare earth magnets for uncoupling and this work with the coupler tail further away than the standard Kadee magnet.

There is an argument for using the larger On3 Kadee's as this allows the coupling to be mounted higher in the car's headstock rather than underneath it which is the wrong place ! To me the one glaring major visual fault with B'mann On30 is that the coupling is mounted some distance below the car underframe - this just would not work in real life !

Tom



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 Posted: Thu Aug 29th, 2013 07:11 am
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Si.
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Hi Tom

I think coupler size & mounting is pretty important for the 'right look'.

I actualy have the std. Kadee 'O' scale 805 on the desk for testing at the moment.
It almost looks a bit big ...
... but I don't know; It looks 'right' for 1:35 NG also.

I don't know too much about this; but ...
... to me, the couplers Bachmann fit on the Shay & Porter I have; look too small to my eyes !

AARRRGGHHH !!!

By the way Tom ...
... I know what you mean about couplers, under the under-frame; but ...
... all the West Side Lumber Company couplers, at least on the cars I have modelled; are all mounted under the main underframe.

Cheers

Si.

Mag. operation height is another issue as well...
...height-wise the Kadee 'O' scale 805 works out good.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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