Does anyone know of a steam Ho to on30 conversion tutorial? I've seen some for diesel critters, but not a more complicated steam conversion. I've never buit an engine, so I have a few questions.
The engine is a IHC 2-6-0 that runs very well ($20)
The cab I'm using is from a toy train my son destroyed so now i have parts. It measures and looks about right.(besides paint) The toy has bell,steam and sand domes too. Might buy a couple more just to take apart at $7 ea
I can't decide if I want the stubby look or the low slung look. Opinions?
On the longer version how would you do the drawbar? Just a longer one?
How do you fill the area under the cab coming out from the boiler?
Mostley looking for advice and pictures of 1/2 finished engines so i can see the build process.
The front truck is only removed so i could get the boiler loose-its going back on.
Here is what I'm looking at now.
The shorter version-yes thats a spent shell case for a stack, not trimmed yet of course.
This is the cab set back further and lower. I guess it looks better not covering the rear driver, but it looks neat being "stubby." Long drawbar needed?
I was going to build a wood deck on the tender, set the plastic "tank" back on it, then add a wood rail around the top to make it taller.
Here is why the cab is green. This HO Percy is changing scales.
I'm leaving the eyes so they still move too! The gold dome is from the toy. I have a stack for it too. They just need painted black. I need to take the buffer and hook off and add a board and coupler. Runs pretty well though. Might make a tender and power from the wheels to help a little.
Given what i'm working with, what would you experts do? I thought about just building a balsa cab for the 2-6-0, but anyone have plans? I haven't bought any actual on30 engines yet do to $$. I hope this goes well because at a couple points while disassembling I thought "Self-Why are you taking apart a perfectly good engine-just build an HO layout." Guess I'm right at the point of looking over the edge you could say.
I want to get a couple 15' BVM ore car kits. I really like the short 2 truck cars. To me they are actually easier to deal with than the little 4 wheel guys-but they do look neat.
Definitely the cab should be in the more rearward position.
Don't forget that locomotives need fuel -- if wood burners, the wood takes up about twice (or more) space than coal--mostly served by having frequent station stops where more wood could be taken on board.
And they need water--lots and lots of water. Probably (if coal fired) three times the volume of the space taken for the fuel.
As for the drawbar--make it as short as possible, consistent with getting around your sharpest curve. Very difficult to get a model loco prototypically close to its tender for this reason.
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It looks like you're doing a ho to on30 conversion, maybe when you're done you should make a tutorial.
I suppose it's all about what kind of person you are. Sometimes it's better to go blindly forward and make what you can how you can, instead of looking at tutorials. I personally find it hard to read instructions and follow the rules, it's easier to just fake it.
So far your loco rebuild is looking good. A good material for working in plastics is squadron filler putty. I think it's something for static military model builders, but it's great for sealing gaps and making things look like they belong together.
I agree with Herb, the cab should be hanging off the back.
Since the engine doesn't have water tanks on the sides/over the boiler, I would assume you're going to add a tender of some kind. (oops reread your post and saw that you aren't, but you might consider adding a tender as the added weight of the water in a real one might make the engine do a wheelie)
The thing about scratch building is that you are working with the same materials as other types of modellers and sometimes there are good links out there that you wouldn't normally think to look at. Mig's articles on weathering are fantastic, I got the link from my bro in law who is a tank modeller and makes museum quality models. When you get to the finishing and painting stage you might want to try some of this guys techniques. The articles are poorly translated from Spanish but the general intent can be figured out. His Filters create really nice variation in tone on his models. Look at some of the pics.
I plan to run a tender, just going to modify the frame from this one. I was thinking of making my engines oil burners, just so i can import fuel in tank cars. Less labor in moving fuel oil then cord wood, and this is a cheap RR.
I was thinking of using the stock side walkways as they are oversized anyway-just over one ft wide in oscale. I saw a couple engines people built and it looks like you can add an air tank anywhere you happen to have space.
I suppose a new wooden pilot would help with the scale change. I know the drivers looks small, but oh well-thats how my RR ordered it I guess
I think most rolling stock will be running HO trucks (at least for now) so the whole RR will look a little small. I want a Matua 2-6-6-2 to modify too.
I guess a bachman climax would look HUGE wouldn't it? Never saw one in person.
Thanks for the responses-cab to the rear it is.
....Just got to looking at it again. In a picture, looking as though it belonged to somebody else, it is much clearer how to build this thing.
-put the cab at the rear location.
-run walkways up the side level with the boiler/firebox line.
-take off the plastic steps, put cab door on the rear to keep from stretching the engine to long behind the drivers.
-air tanks above 1st and 2nd drivers to cover the "hole" and worm screw.
-one tall dome over the center, a shorter dome over the front one, bell in front of the cab
-big headlight on the front
Last edited on Wed Oct 26th, 2011 06:00 pm by afbrian13
The HO Percy 0-4-0t is a nice little engine for bashing. I used two of the mechanisms for my often rebuilt Glover Garratt. It seems that some of the least expensive HO locos make the best On30, or as in my case 35n2 locos. Keep going.