I received my first of three, new, North West Short Line Stanton Drives.
Mine is one of the 7' 6" versions with 33" wheels. They are available now (soon anyway) in six different wheel bases, Group 1, 10', 9'6", 9', Group 2, 8'6", 8', and 7'6". The other two wheel base versions in Group 3, will be 7' and 6'6" and will be along next (release date not available yet). Many different wheel sizes are available.
I put mine on my test track and off it went. Running alone it needed a bit of extra weight. Running with the weight of a bare chassis it ran good.
This one is going in one of my 70 foot McKeen Motor Cars real soon.
I was running the new Stanton Drive by itself to break it in and having some track power pick-up problems. I decided to just install it in my Red McKeen Motor Car with Radio Control. I did a quick motor swap. All that was necessary was for me to solder a connector to the orange and gray wire on the motor and mount the new motor in place of the older one. That was quick and I had the Red McKeen running and breaking in the new Stanton Drive. The more it ran the better it ran.
The All-Trol RC System makes RC so easy. Radio Control with Batteries makes life so easy.
I don't think you can tell from the picture but the bottom cover is also a small circuit board. This is very clever. Neil Stanton designed this motor and after reading the first two parts of his Radio Control magazine article I am not surprised. His skill level is "rocket to the moon" type attention to detail.
The drive unit is DCC ready and has solder contact points made on the small board. My motor came with a 4 page set of instructions with all the different ways to set this up. Being DCC ready also means Radio Control ready even though they didn't mention that in the instructions.
The wipers are soldered to the board and press against the inside of the wheels. For Radio Control models I would remove the wipers, bend them back or cut off the ends that touch the back of the wheels.
The drive has a very small motor that sets between the axles. The axles have a small gear that meshes with a small gear on each end of the motor shaft. This is covered by the bottom cover. You can see the gears. I really want to take one of these apart.
I have removed both power trucks from my PSC 70 Foot McKeens. They were running sending an "overload" message. I have two more of the Stanton Drives on order and will replace both PSC McKeen motors with the new NWSL units.
Bill-that's a cool little drive unit. From my experience, let me warn you to NOT TAKE IT APART! I worked on model trains for pay and only once did I try to take a NWSL power unit apart...I was sorry. Just appreciate this as a nice piece of engineering without disassembly. I could give you a bunch of "tips" if you are dead set to explore the parts but please try to refrain...go build something else or read a nice book. Anyway, have fun and run a train today. Woodie
____________________ It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
I bought this old Suydan Steeple Cab on eBay. It was listed as a "fix-it-upper or for parts" some time ago. I bought it cheap as their were only a couple bids placed on it.
As you can see from the picture one of the trucks was missing and it was listed as motor not working.
4. The motor didn't run because the spring-like drive shaft on the model was broken. I replaced it with a piece of "Du-Bro" Silicone Fuel Tubing size Small. Connected the wires to current and it runs OK. I am replacing it but will save the motor-truck combination for something else.
5. I am re-motoring this model with two of the new NWSL - Stanton Drives.
7. I drilled two holes in the cab weight for the extra screw length.