 | PM |  | | Quote | | | Reply | | | Full Topic | |
| Joined: | Thu Dec 29th, 2011 |
| Location: | United Kingdom |
| Posts: | 111 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
I flat with the wet-and-dry just in the main panels, and every where, avoiding the rivets - for the very reason you're saying! The next step is polishing. You can limit yourself to mostly polishing up the flatted areas, and If you do this, it leaves a fundamentally 'dirtier' loco. With the Fowler, when polishing I also polished over rivet detail, which hoes quite a long way to matching the flatted panels in replicating the overall fine appearance. On the Ivatt 2-6-0 I did less of this. It's something you can play with!
Hi Rod, yes it creates a starting point, but I think it enables you to achieve a more realistic finish overall, insofar as you are starting off with a more realistic base point.
I did use a fibreglass pen on the nooks and crannies of the car, but I don't use them on the paint on locos, as I simply want to take the surface down to flat!
The Ivatt fully weathered having had it's factory coat cut back and polished as the photo in above post
Last edited on Sat Feb 1st, 2014 09:41 am by Giles
____________________
Giles
The Loop. 0-16.5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FB2lTF4t4M&feature=plcp&context=C3775db8UDOEgsToPDskI_j5g3O_927OWTefW3AUU-
The End of The Line
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SEo2v9v82Q
| Close Window | |