View single post by Steven B
 Posted: Sun Aug 18th, 2019 02:21 am
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Steven B



Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 426
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Thanks Si. 

We here at the H&T Rwy do try to provide the best service,
to our past, present and future nabobs, even Angel Eyes. 
Let's see how we can get them up to the Yankee Blade mines or better yet, down.

Been hammering on the house, well, screwing around really, about 25lbs plus of screws.
Had to rebuild two walls on the back (newest about 1950s) addition. 

:f:  

It has been a grind and not much modeling going on except for 5 minutes here, 5 minutes there. 
Today, I picked up the debris, all the windows and doors are in, the walls are rock solid,
until after I die anyway, and it was time to reset for doing the eves. 
Yes there is rot there too. 
Hey, Mr. SAWZALL!!! 

:bg: 

But the house is wrapped up like a birthday present,
and is awaiting the siding, insulation in many parts and sheetrock. 
Dang, I'm bushed. 
But I played around with my newest combine for a couple of hours today...


Hit the Brakes!

I do like these MDC trucks,
whoda thunk that they'd be so hugeish that maybe they're too big for HO? 

I got them under the car and I was looking at them. 
There was something very wrong, but what could it be?!  





Yeah, they're not like high toned rivet counter trucks, but hey, I'm in recovery right?
Then it suddenly dawned on me. 
This is a MouNtaInoUs railroad, and they ain't got no brakes!  

:shocked:  

How the heck are those little guys supposed to stop in Austin on the way down? 
They'd be half way to Battle Mountain before the car slowed enough for the little dudes to get off!!! 

:w:

Well, thank you Mr. Kitts at Foothill Model Works, who had sold to me, in the past,
some wooden brake beams for some McCloud Trucks. 
They sure look snazzy and dang if the car can stop when the boys turn the crank! 





So from the the Howdedodat File:  :dt:

First of all keep in mind that these trucks are those "slippery" plastic jobbers,
that nothing (not even paint with handling) sticks to. 
So how to stick 'em on the ends so they don't fall off enroute to the high up mines? 
I had some scrap styrene and phosphor wire sitting on the bench and it hit me... 
I decided to bolt them on.

Get your parts together first.
Here we have the inside hanger. 
This beam goes towards the center of the car. 
The straight one goes to the outside. 
The bend in the iron accommodates the brake linkage, that comes from the center, to the trucks. 
The wire doesn't show up very well, but it is the back line that is not parallel to the lines on the cutting pad. 
How thick?  I dunno, nor care. 
The styrene is maybe 0.20 x 0.40?  Again, don't know, it was sitting there and it got used. 
I cut two little blocks off of the styrene about the width of the iron part of brake hanger.
The FMW parts are styrene too fortunately.





Glue the blocks to the iron bar at the closest point to the hangers.  





You can also glue the brake shoes on at the time if you choose to. 
DO NOT use tweezers to try and slip them into place. 
They'll launch quicker than a North Korean missile when rocket boy is watching. 
Don't ask. 

:doh:   

At this point grab a cuppa :java: and take time to visit one of the great facilities located here  
http://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=8465&forum_id=6 
or walk away or look for little dudes who want to take a trip up the mountain.
 
Your glue has to dry COMPLETELY. 
Don't rush it, again don't ask how I know. 
Here are the dudes that I rounded up.  Straight ahead Woodland guys. 
I added a hat to the one guy as he looked like he needed some help. 
Nobody will be able to see easily into the car, so I didn't do the standard H&T Rwy overkill repaint on them.





Once the glue is dry find a drill bit that accommodates your wire size. 
Drill a hole in the block that you added. 
The block will sorta blend in to the beam and once painted will look a part of it. 
I had added the brake shoes so I overhung the shoes on my cutting board. 
I found that drilling in the upper center corner of the block allows it to catch the beam on the truck.





Here's both holes.  Not perfect, but they'll work.  :time:





Now's the trickiest part. 
No photos here because I needed a fourth hand to take a photo while fitting it. 
But line up the holes with the end of the truck so that they both catch. 
Make a mark for the first hole and drill into the the end of the truck beam. 
I drilled in about 3/16s of an inch. 
That's almost 5mm for y'all who measure in that ol' French system.
Test fit your wire. 
Lookie there, the other side lines up too!!   :glad:





Leave the wire in, line up the other side,
stick the drill bit into the other hole in the block that you drilled awhile ago,
and mark the end of the other side of the truck. 
Drill ye terriers drill, and blast, and fire... well maybe not that much.





I put some CA on the end of the wire after I removed it from the first hole. 
Not that CA will hold it, it won't, but it makes me feel better.

 ;) 

Then clip the wire, leaving a nub sticking out. 
This will look like a bolt and keeps the whole shootin' match from slipping off easier.
Then repeat the wire in the hole trick with CA for the other side.  
It is awfully hard to see that wire sticking out, but it is there.





This is what it looks like when trimmed up.





Badda Bing Badda Boom.  Brakes.  :Crazy:





Paint them in your favorite livery, and yes, I left off the levers...
I told you that I was in recovery, but I'll add some levers under the car,
based on drawings from my reprinted Mattias Forney book that I have showing these kinds of things,
and when I get there I will post on that.





Overall I think this made the trucks look a whole lotta betta.
 
I like it, with a nod to my crazy.

 [whack]




____________________
Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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